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Honda Civic: Problems & Solutions



  • Thanks for the advice. That's what other people have told me to do too. (use a hairdryer) I think I'm gonna do it this weekend. I told the dealer, he said "you can just peel it off". Other than that I love my car! I recommend those interested in new civics to take the plunge. The design is different, but awesome. The stereo system is bangin', it's nice to have that kind of sound from factory installed equipment. :)
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,570
    I doubt any of that would change your top speed, which is mostly limited by aerodynamics...and it takes LOTS of hp to overcome aerodynamic limits. What you'll probably notice is better mid-range performance with a 10-15 hp bump. There's really no HP in those components rather depends on how restrictive your stock exhaust was and the placement of your stock air intake all cars will vary in how they respond to this stuff. In other words, how much HP Honda engineers left on the table in order to keep the engine and exhaust relatively quiet.

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  • djm2djm2 Posts: 712
    Dealers are in business to make money! YES, it is that simple. Enjoy your new vehicle. Life is TOO short to worry about the small stuff!
  • try replacing the front control alignment bushing. i have that same problem with my 93
  • eric29eric29 Posts: 49
    If you need to fix it, when you take the oil pan off, a lot of the bolt may be exposed. So you may be able to grab it with a needle nose vice grip and turn it out.

    But I agree with the other posters - if your pan was leaking, you probably need a new gasket, unless the pan itself has a hole in it. I saw a 1991 Accord like this - the pan rusted through. The Honda parts guy said that this happens a lot on all the Honda models as they get old.

    I've worked on cars all my life and I've never seen this on any other car.
  • djm2djm2 Posts: 712
    deans1: ---- Manny, after finding out what the dealer paid for the "unit," could have "backed out of the deal"! The vehicle in question was not delivered! When I purchase a new or used vehicle, my trade in my deposit at the signing of the contract, (no additional money changes hands at that time). If additional money is to be put down on the deal, it is done so at the time of delivery. Should something not be right with the vehicle and / or the deal at the time of delivery, I am in a good position to negotiate. Should the dealer not like the way I do business there is no problem. I keep my money, and the dealer keeps his / her vehicle, and we part friends. Question; ---- If Manny had walked, what would the dealer have done? Would the dealer have gone to court? I don't think so! Going to court costs money, and the case would get into the local papers. Most likely, the dealer would have negotiated to close the deal ASAP. Manny could have gotten some free oil and filter services to balance out the issue had he negotiated!
  • Picked up my Honda Civic 06 EX automatic w nav and sat radio on Friday. Beautiful car, handles like a dream.
    The one problem I encountered,prob due to it being new,
    was the sat. start-up. Paid for the dealer to install so it was intergrated into the nav/radio system which has a button for XM. When I picked up the car, the salesperson said all I had to do to activate was to go home, go to web site, punch in a number and it would work. No dice. When I woke on Saturday and it did not work called XM customer service but they said they could not get it to work, to go back to the dealer. I went back to the dealer and another saleperson told my salesperson that the dealership has to activate the system through XM web site by punching in special dealer code this way customer gets first three months free. Once this was done, worked immediatly. I blame the dealership for not prepping the salespeople on
    this. Now I have to go back to XM and make sure I get my three free months. Also, the sterring wheel radio controls do not change channel on sat radio, have to call tomorrow and find out. Was told it would but it does not.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 19,599
    The tech that did your Pre Delivery Inspection should have activated it. I'm not sure if the steering wheel controls will change XM channels. I guess I'll have to play with the next one we get in!
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    "I saw a 1991 Accord like this - the pan rusted through. The Honda parts guy said that this happens a lot on all the Honda models as they get old.

    I've worked on cars all my life and I've never seen this on any other car."

    You obviously don't live in a rust belt. It's common for engine and transmission pans to rust through from the outside in areas where salt is used on the roads in winter.
  • djm2djm2 Posts: 712
    Why are you concerned about what the dealer is selling your "trade - in" for, on their used car lot? You traded in this vehicle, because for some reason, you did not like the quality. They can ask any price that they want for this vehicle. It is their property!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,570
    A substantial number of posts were removed because they were either a)far too personal in content or b) completely off the topic of this forum.

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  • djm2:

    You reply to deans1 was of interest to me. I am taking delivery of the Civic 06 next Wednesday November 30th, 2005. I am taking your advice to heart, and will check out the details before I finalize the finacial transaction.

    I am fond of the proverb, "All is well, that ends well."

    Thank you.

  • I was wondering I just bought a 93 honda civic dx and the check engine light doesn't come on until the car has been running for about 40 minutes. The thing is that the car has a muffler and is actually hooked up. Another thing the temperature reading after a while goes to hot and then it goes to cold after running the car. I also notice that the speedometer is broken. How can I tell wether or not those are the miles the car has. I also have a problem i take a bump and the car goes to the left. Does anyone know why :mad:
  • Pretty much paid sticker, went for the fog lamps which work well and had them install sat radio. Remind the salesperson that the dealership has to activate the system by the internet by punching in special dealer code, you also get 3 free months of XM. Had to go back to dealeship was told all I had to do was call up. I was also told the radio controls can change channels on sat radio but this is not working ( it works for am/fm)or not true.
    The car is perfect, rides great and handles well.
    Can get better deal on Accords from what I was told by a few different dealers. Nice people at Clinton Honda in NJ.
    They also have to take time in explaining the nav system.
  • Ive just bought a 98 Civic 1.8 VTI, VTEC.
    Ive noticed that the engine tone changes and gets very harsh about 4000rpm in any gear. Is this the normal sound of the VTEC kicking in?, or do i have a problem with the engine.. Please help..thanx :lemon:
  • I have a 1996 Civic EX Coupe. The power door locks stopped working on both doors. All fuses are good. I first tested the switch and have voltage there. I then removed the driver’s side door panel and disconnected the plug from the door lock control module for a few seconds and reconnected it. The doors then started locking and unlocking for a day and stopped again. I disconnected the plug again and it worked for a short time and stopped again. I removed the circuit board from the blue door lock control module box and noticed a burnt spot on the board where one of the resistors connected and that resistor was burnt. I replaced the resistor and the door locks worked for about a day again and stopped. The new resistor doesn’t appear to be burnt.
    I went to various junk yards and found a door lock module out of a 95. I know it’s not the same module but I plugged it in and it would lock/unlock only the driver’s door.
    I’ve noticed that when locking and unlocking with the old module, as well as the module out of the 95 Civic, there is not just a single pop when the actuator locks and unlocks. When I click the switch to unlock I hear the first pop when it unlocks and then a few residual pops like the actuators inside both doors are still getting power. It’s much softer sounding on either the lock or unlock but still several short bursts come from the actuators in both doors (only the driver’s door with the 95 civic module). If you can picture the 1st CLICK when locking or unlocking the door and then a quick “thud” “thud” “thud” at the actuators after the 1st click.
    After hooking the module up from the junk yard and hearing that same noise I am wondering if the real problem is the driver’s side door lock control module or someplace else.
    Has anyone else ever heard this noise? Can other Civic owners lock and unlock their door and listen around the latch area where the door closes into the car body and tell me if there is a single click when it locks or possibly some other noises after the first click?
    I really hate to put out the money for a new module if it’ll just get burnt out because of some other problem.
    Thanks in advance for any help.
  • Hi,

    I have this problem on my 2001 with 108,000 Kms (that's about 65,000 Miles). The wheel starts jumping up and down on the passenger side when I go over ripples in the road as well. It is especially bad in the rain for some reason. I just noticed that the 2002 I just bought has had the front struts replaced too.

    The dealer told me I had leaky shocks on my last servicing and says they want $700 to replace the front struts.

    Did you get any other responses to this query? I see only the one from Lily234.

    Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada
  • well im glad to here yours is working i just 2006 civic coupe and it had xm ready radio in so i read the hand book how to set it for xm radio well it didnt work after a day or two checking out the web and calling xm they couldnt figure out what the problem was so I call the dealer and service guy wasnt sure either and see he would look in to it he call eight hours later and told me that it would cost me 920.00 to hook it up need to add some parts to make work it does say that in the manual but what could i say but no way so is there any one know how i get this hook up with out paying that out rages price and not voiding my warrenty thanks tim
  • vix4vix4 Posts: 52
    My 2003 Civic had a front end noise that started at 15,000 miles. It occurred mainly at low speeds when turning.

    I finally convinced the dealership to replace the stuts under warranty and the noise is gone for now. I'm not too happy about the quality of the suspension, and I don't want to have to buy new struts after the warranty expires.

    I've read a lot of posts about bad struts on the Honda Civic so I'm woried I may get stuck with the next repair bill.
  • vix4vix4 Posts: 52
    I just saw you note. My noise sounded just like yours! A knocking/clunking type noise usually when turning the wheel to go into a parking spot or backing out of parking spot, things like that.

    New struts at 15,000 miles fixed my noise (for now) but I wouldn't be surprised if it came back.

    Good luck with your noise.
  • fe203fe203 Posts: 21
    Thanks Mike,

    I'm bringing the car back to the dealer to have it checked. They replaced both front struts in Feb '05, they should last more than 10 months. No other responses before yours.


    St. John's, NL
  • cmunizcmuniz Posts: 604
    A noise when turning the wheels usually indicated a bad CV joint. It usually occurs at much higher mileage unless the rubber boots are torn or leaking which causes dirt to get in there and wear them out faster. I would have dealer check those, too.
  • fe203fe203 Posts: 21
    Hi ,
    I have 96 Civic, the Check engine light came on just driving down the road. There is no noticeable difference in the operation of the car. Is there a way I can check the code without going to a shop. Someone told me a long time ago that there is a connector or something that you jump out & watch how many times the ck eng light flashes to obtain the code. Can this be done?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,570
    It's possible these are all operated by the same relay. You'll need a wiring diagram for your car and see how these three functions are related. You'll also need to locate where the relays are located--they are probably part of the fuse box.

    It's hard to test relays but sometimes circuits use identical relays (same part # on the relay) and you can swap them out for testing purposes--or if you know what you're doing you can bypass the relay with a jumper wire in order to test it.

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  • 2006 Civic EX Coupe is not XM equipped, it is only XM Ready, meaning it is prewired for XM, but unless you get the Navi option, it is not standard. The 2006 EX coupe has the 350 watt w/ the Subwoofer, the same that is available on the SI, but its only XM Ready, so you have to go aftermarket to get it to work. Much cheaper than factory parts
  • Check for a bad CV Joint, and if the trunk is leaking, that is prob a good sign that car has been hit somewhere along the way. Might want to pull a Car Fax
  • p9142p9142 Posts: 2
    I recently had honda install a new clutch package and resurface the flywheel on my 95 EX. Sometimes I get a little clutch shudder. I had it installed in Illinois, but am currently living in Louisiana, so I would have to take it to a dealer here to have them look at it (12 mos/ 12000 mile warranty.) I am just wondering if this is something that I should worry about or not. It only shudders from first, or downshifting to second or third, and it doesn't do it all the time. I figure that the reason you pay $700 to get a OEM installed clutch instead of paying $350 to have local mechanic install is to get a perfectly functioing clutch. Am I just expecting too much?
  • I just bought a 2006 Civic LX (my first Honda) and absolutely love the car. The only problem that I have experienced is the transmission does some weird stuff. The most notable is that, upon coming to a stop, the auto transmission kinda clunks into first. It doesn't make a bad sound or anything, but feels like the car would lurch a little if I didn't keep my foot on the brake. The transmission also seems to have some "play" or lag in it on the highway if you take your foot off the accelerator then reapply it in short succession. It just feels odd - like the tranny is sort of catching up with your intentions. Has anyone else experienced this? Is this a sign of a problem or just some design flaws? Thanks.
  • its a 95 sohc vtec civic,have tryed sol:valves,bodies cleaned out its trottle bodie and the injectors got once over, aint gona give if there is any problem solvers get back to me is the only way forward.
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    i can't remember (or find - sorry) where i was reading about shudder in a non-Edmunds civic forum (did you try to google it?) but someone implied with an older model civic, the manual trans clutch surface of the OEM part was too hard, and that a replacement with a non-OEM part solved the problem. (?)

    maybe you should ask your question in "Got a Quick Technical Question?" or "Transmission Tramas" forums.
This discussion has been closed.