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Honda Civic: Problems & Solutions



  • 06 EX,,, When i turn on my defroster sometimes i get a anti-freeze smell comin through the vents,,, just wondering if it's normal sometimes or if i should get it looked at? It's not a big deal to me,, just something i've noticed.
  • Brand new car? I'd have it looked at. I've had my '02 DX for 3+ years now and never had an anti-freeze smell.

    Just my $.02.
  • The door to the gas tank on my 2001 Civic won't open. I press down on the release button in the car and nothing happens. Does anyone know how I would go about fixing that? Do I need to take it to a mechanic, or could I do it myself? What might it cost me if I took it to a mechanic?

  • hey man the same thing happened to both my 91 probe and my 99 civic si try checking the electrical connectors to the fuel injectors ..... and if that dont do the trick take and do a carbon cleaning to it..i did both to both my cars and it hasn't done it since then...good luck.
  • crissmancrissman Posts: 145
    Does it feel different than usual when you press the release button? Could be the cable that connects the release to the latch at the fuel door has worked loose. You would then need to make sure the cable is firmly attached to both the release button and the latch. I suppose the cable could be broken, too. Since it probably runs across the bottom of the car, maybe something hit it, stretching or breaking it. Try checking it out yourself before submitting to a $50+/hr. mechanic charge. Good luck.
  • Check again, it is now. HONDA is investigating! The car has been quarantined and wrapped in plastic by our insurance company to preserve the evidence for a subrogation investigation.SEE Complaint Number: 10149079 :lemon:
  • Good day everyone. My car is a 2004 Honda Civic. Yesterday morning, I had ice on my windshield and used a scraper to remove it before leaving for work. Unfortunately, the scraper left some scratches on the windshield. Since I am fully covered for glass, I notified my insurance company who put me in touch with the glass repair facility they use. The facility told me the scratches cannot be repaired and the windshield would have to be replaced. This seems extreme to me given that the scratches are minor and not that deep. It is fully covered though. Anyone have any thoughts on this? Anyone have experience getting windshield scratches repaired? Is it overboard to replace the entire windshield or the best thing to do? Thanks!
  • I'm sure this will sound silly, but where are these plugs? The tail lights look like they are flush with the car. (I told you I was bad at this!) Also, I learned when trying to unhook my battery that everything is tooled in metric units - what would be the 1/4" equivalent for the ratchet drive?

    I really appreciate all the help! :blush:
  • blaneblane Posts: 2,017

    Just because yours is the ONE AND ONLY complaint filed with the NHTSA does not mean that there is any kind of endemic problem as you have implied.

    Your report about a witness doesn't mean much because the "witness" could never have witnessed the position of the driver's feet on the pedals or hands on the steering wheel. If the driver stomped on the brakes, causing the accident, the witness' comments would have no validity.
  • What kind of scrapper were you using? I've never seen a scrapper actually scratch windshield glass. And, no, glass cannot be buffed out or "fixed." If you get a stone chip, yes, you can repair that, but you will still see the chip. It just prevents the crack from spreading. If you want to remove a scratch, you have two choices... replace the windshield or live with it.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,570
    10mm should be equivalent. By "plugs" I meant disconnecting the wires to the back of the tail light assembly. There's got to be some sort of electrical connection accessible from inside the car.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • I was just using a regular scraper. Nothing fancy. I've used it a few times on other cars and never had a problem. I live in a warm climate so I'm not a frequent scraper. It was surprising that it would scratch the windshield...the tool felt relatively smooth when i ran my finger across it, not cracked or broken anywhere. Anyone had an experience like this with a scraper? I guess once i replace the windshield I'll stick to de-icer sprays or waiting for the car to warm up enough to melt the ice before driving away. Thanks for the response.
  • blaneblane Posts: 2,017

    It was probably not your scraper that caused those tiny scratches. It was most likely sand-like road grime that was on the glass before it froze. You probably dragged that abrasive stuff accross the glass while scraping the ice off.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 21,309
    I like to use very fine steel wool on the windshield to get that grit off that flies and sticks with other road gunk. You can use Barkeeper's Friend also since it contains oxalic acid along with a little grittiness to help remove the layer. I personally use SOS pads. You can feel when the grime layer is gone because the drag is gone just like when you claybar your finish. That layer is still there even after rubbing with carwash on a mitt.

    2015 Cruze 2LT, 2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT

  • blaneblane Posts: 2,017

    Plain old store-brand Windex and a paper towel has always worked great on my windshields. If there is any sticky stuff there, a bit of tar remover or mineral spirits will dissolve it quickly. No need to drag any kind of abrasive material over glass.
  • I have just purchased a 2005 Honda Civic ex,nice car. The problem I have is the front seat does not go back far enough for me ,I am 6' with long legs.I wonder if I can have the seat moved back farther.I have a back problem which makes it more difficult.
    Thank you
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 21,309
    You're free to do whatever you want if you think that really does remove all the material from you own windshield. It doesn't on mine.

    2015 Cruze 2LT, 2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT

  • mikefm58mikefm58 Posts: 2,882
    And you didn't find that out with a test drive or even sitting in it??? All you can do is ask the service manager.
  • blaneblane Posts: 2,017

    The more frequently you drag anything abrasive, such as steel wool, over your windshield, the more likely that you'll have to do it repeatedly in the future. That's because you are causing microsopic damage to the glass.
  • goosegoose Posts: 77
    Well it appears I have solved the rear deck rattle. As posted by a different person the rattle can be solved by placing some foam between the glass and the rear brake light plastic. I pushed the foam as close to the rear as possible. My biggest concern was the foam being noticed by someone outside the car. I made sure the foam had a snug fit against the glass. The foam was purchase at Home D.... in the weather stripping section. The rattle is caused by the decking vibrating against the rear deck metal and not the glass. Placing the foam against the glass pushes the plastic deck against the read deck metal and removes/reduces the rattle.
    I have almost 6k miles on my EX Coupe auto and get 33-35 MPG depending on AC use (AZ resident). I love the car and would buy another in a heart beat if my current one became incapacitated. :shades:
  • Hi all. Does anyone know what preparation the dealership "is supposed" to do prior to the customer receiving it? I just brought my 2005 civic coupe in for a saqueaking and clunking from the left front suspension area. My car has 2,000 miles and I have owned it for 6 months. I had originally brought the car in after a week for a squeeking noise in the same place.

    Today, I was told that the rear plate that holds the suspension in place was wrapped around like an L, and I was asked if the car was in an accident? I responded no and told this dealership I had complained about the noise from day one to the dealership I bought it at, who claimed the problem to be an unlubed bushing. Now I am told that something had to have happened before I got the car.

    What checks and prep must the dealership do in order to catch things like this?
  • blaneblane Posts: 2,017
    Dealership preparation usually includes removing the thin plastic sheeting that covers the seats, taking the floor mats from the trunk and putting them on the floor, checking the fluid levels, checking tire pressure (rarely), and washing & drying the exterior.
  • I have been reading about the problem your daughter had with her 05 civic. I am sorry for this but i would like to ask you a few questions if you do'nt mind. were you with her when this happened or is this what she told you. the reason i am asking is because two years ago my daughter, also in college, totaled her 2002 Hyundai Elantra. She insisted the brakes failed causing her to hit a tree. I found out later that she was driving to fast when she approched a sharp turn. the brakes worked fine (150feet of skid marks) Even tho the car hit the tree dead center the air bags did not go off. she had a few badly bruised rids from the seat belt (luckily she was using it) since the car should have been in 5th at 45 maybe she did something to cause it. from what i have read the problem is with automatic transmissions not manual. by the way we also have a 2005 civic ex se with manual with 25,000 miles we have no problems with shifting (knock on wood)
  • Thanks for the reply Blane. So if my car was damaged in transit to the dealer, the prep or pre-delivery inspection would not catch this. Isn't the car supposed to be put on the lift and examined by the dealer before the customer receives it? My pre-delivery inspection paperwork shows my car was thoroghly looked over before I picked it up, or could the dealer have taken Honda's pdi payment and not looked the car over at all? :(
  • fe203fe203 Posts: 21
    I worked at a Honda Dealership in the late 90's, the time for a PDI was just over 2 hrs as set out by HONDA. There were PDI's done in as little as 15 min, bascially check the fluids, make sure the lug nuts were tight, and take a short test drive to make sure there were no unusal noises. If it was slow in the shop the tech's would take a little longer but when the shop was flat out a PDI was a pain in the butt, get it in get it out as fast as possible.
  • my 05 civic LX sedan has only 8k miles on it and I did two time oil changes so far on it. But recently I noticed that every morning when I start up my car and turn on the air-flow, there will be a very strong oil-burning smell coming out of the vent. After like a minute, it will disappear.

    I check my engine oil level several times since I found this weird problem. There is no obvious sign of decreasing oil level. And gas milage is no big change either (27local/30highway)

    Any advice will be appreciated. Thanks.
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 18,383
    Outside of a leak that you might have missed, what surfaces if any, did the oil drip onto when you changed the oil and oil filter two times? Also did you change the crush washer and torque it correctly?
  • Thanks for fast reply. I thought about that oil dripping outside. But it has been like three monthes since last time I changed oil. If there was any oil dripping outside, should it already been burned out?

    Sorry for my ignorance. What is the crush washer? I did my oil and filter change at Honda dealer. I do not remember there was any crush washer work done. If it is the crush washer problem, is it serious to do harm to the engine?

    It makes me worry cause obviously there is something burning or leaking inside my car. Maybe I should send it to garage to check.
This discussion has been closed.