Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Honda Accord (2008-2012) Maintenance and Repair



  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Posts: 823
    Although there is always the possibility of something is not working correctly (wire not connected) it may be just the difference from your old Accord and your new one.

    Speakers have a few parts that flex (suspension spider, cone, front suspension surround) and they do need to break in a little from use. You may just need to wait a bit for things to loosen up.

  • dpmeersmandpmeersman Posts: 275
    I owned a 2008 EX-L V6 and found that the satellite radio sound lacked any oomph but the CD left near center on all the adjustments was fine and produced sufficient enough bass for my taste. I could really play around with all the audio adjustments for the satellite radio and approach the sound quality of the CD player but boy if I forgot that I had made those adjustments and threw a CD with all the adjustments emphasized I felt I came close to blowing a few speakers.

    I’m now driving a 2010 EX-L V6 and these traits still hold true but there does seem to be somewhat less bass with this vehicle. From this small sampling I can’t wholeheartedly say that there are variations from one car to another but, but personally that has been my experience.
  • rustumrustum Posts: 100
    edited May 2011
    Hi jmillerjmiller,
    Thanks for the feedback. I am observing the behavior. It does not happen that loud always though. I will try to record it when it is happening again.
  • epley5epley5 Posts: 1
    The entire Throttle body just went out on my 2008 honda accord with only 44,000 miles. It seems like this ought to be a recall issue
  • hondalovahondalova Posts: 189
    I think there is some truth to what both of you have said. The bass and treble settings seem to be adjusting better now than the 1st 1-2 days I had the car. And there is plenty of bass and thump when I push the bass level up. But the subwoofer adjustment continues to produce no discernible difference in sound so I will have it looked at when I come in for my 1st oil change (which, at my rate of travel, will be in about 7-8 weeks).

    I to experienced a disparity in the strength of the playback in my '04 Accord - the CD and XM channels displayed similar levels of response to volume and tone settings, but switch to the FM radio after listening to a CD or XM song at louder volume and you could get blown out of your seat.

    As a musician too, I'm well aware that different songs have different recording levels and that, when I've used the automatic sound leveling function on my computer software to burn a disc on my own for the car, that can also impact the sound quality, making some songs stronger or weaker than others.

    I guess we'll just wait and see. I'm still falling in love with the damn car anyway!

    -FS :)
  • hondalovahondalova Posts: 189
    Still enjoying my new Accord V-6 6spd. except for one thing - the mileage SUCKS! I mean - I have almost 1400 miles on the car - probably 85-90% highway, and I'm averaging 22mpg-to barely 23 mpg (using A/C less than 50% of the time). I'm the only person in the car. I've checked tire pressure and its at or slightly above specs. I've also tried feathering the throttle, slowing my average hwy. pace, increasing my use of cruise control, and upshifting at lower rpm to keep the tach in the 1500-2200 rpm range before getting into high gear - this car is definitely geared shorter than my '04 was. It runs fine - and sure has plenty of "giddyup" but I never expected the mileage to be this poor - my '04 V-6 6 spd. was getting 26.5-27mpg consistently even while burning oil with 162,000 miles on it.

    Is this "normal" mileage for this car? Should I expect more improvement with additional break-in time? I never expected to see the EPA 26 mpg highway rating in the real world, but 24-25 mpg seemed reasonable, or am I wrong?

    -FS :(
  • dpmeersmandpmeersman Posts: 275
    They rate the combined fuel economy at 21 mpg's. I think what you're seiing is what you're going to get. My average combined V6 Sedan with VCM is 23-24.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,577
    I agree. I think that this is more or less the real world MPG. You may see a little bump after 5,000 miles or so, and you can make small improvements (as in SMALL improvements) by the types of tires and oil you use.

    Beware of "increase your MPG!!" gadgets on eBay.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • hondalovahondalova Posts: 189
    Forgetting for the moment about warranty voiding problems, does anyone know if Honda or any aftermarket parts manufacturer makes a taller ratio set of gears for this car that could be swapped (ideally, I'd love to just swap out 5th and 6th for taller gears, but don't know if that can be done). It's almost worth it to me b/c I drive over 100 miles a day.

    And thanks for the tip Mr. S. but you and the others on these boards have educated me well about the false promises made by "increase your mpg" toys. :-)

    -FS ;)
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,577
    edited May 2011
    Hmm...changing ratios is a two-edged sword in most cases. You don't get somethin' for nothin'. With higher overdrive gears you would find it necessary to downshift more often on any kind of upgrade; also, there is the danger of "lugging" the engine, on a manual transmission car at any rate, which as you may know means running at too low an RPM when in a higher gear. Lugging is perhaps the most damaging thing one can do to an engine, as it puts great strain on it and the drivetrain in general. It's not for nothing that many engineers don't allow modern cars to shift into overdrive, on automatic transmissions, until certain engine and transmission temperatures are reached. Or, in another case, why some automakers recommend that people do not tow while in overdrive.

    You can try lower-friction tires and synthetic oil, + waiting until you are completely through the break-in period. It's possible all these things combined could squeeze you out another 10%.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • hondalovahondalova Posts: 189
    That'sjust it - these motors love to rev. I'm not a teenager and I don't need to wind it out to 5000 rpm in every gear or max-jackrabbit every start, but I'd like to drive the car the way it was meant to be driven - upshifting at around 3000 rpm +/- 250 revs as conditions require.

    Earlier I said this car is geared shorter than my last one, but as I look at it, I think I may have been wrong. With my old car, at 80 mph, I was at 3000 rpm. With this car, at 80 mph, I'm at about 2600 rpm. Moreover, I can tool around at 40 mph on a flat roadway in 5th gear and be just under 2000 rpm.

    On the plus side - the thing has monster torque and awesome acceleration, both of which I'd be willing to trim just a little for some better fuel economy.

    I guess that, as Steven Wright says, "You can't have everything - where would you put it all...?"

    Thanks for your feedback. :-)

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,577
    Actually your best MPG on a car like this would be to accelerate at moderate (halfway down on gas) throttle, then short-shift maybe at 3500 or so. Auto mags have tested this theory and it seems to work. I do this on my 2003 MINI Cooper S and I average 28 mpg city/hwy which is very good for this car, as EPA projected about 26.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • hondalovahondalova Posts: 189
    edited May 2011
    I'll try that next, after I see how my current tank of "quick upshift before 2500 rpm" strategy works out. Your suggestion is more in line with my usual and habitual mode of driving (broader band of operating RPM, less attention to avoiding lugging required) so it'd be great if it produced an improvement (or at least didn't detract any further from what I've seen so far).

    Again - thanks!

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,577
    It might be hard to measure accurately but I remember that Road & Track put a lot of testing and calculations in coming to this conclusion. My "evidence" is only anecdotal, which is a polite word for 'useless', but even if it is faith-based, that's the way I drive.

    Also I think I have developed other driving habits that help and that are now almost unconscious---like rolling to a stop so that I don't have to stop completely before a light change or a merge. Having to start over from a dead stop is a gas-waster. Also timing lane changes, and not downshifting uselessly, like for braking on the straight and level.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • boqibamaboqibama Posts: 25
    I have 09 accord ex around 24K. Just notice that twice recently. When I was checking oil level (engine was off about 10 min), there was a loud low pitch sound like opening a wine bottle from the engine bay(or like from medal pipe0. Anything wrong? Please share your experience. Thanks
  • mcar10mcar10 Posts: 2
    I am glad that some of you had been reimbursed for an expense that should not be on your list sooo.. soon after buying a RELIABLE, BRAND NEW CAR !! (LOL).
    I was not so lucky, my '10 Accord start screeching at around 30k, and I had to change the pads (plus doing rotors) at 40K. Now, comparing with others experience, maybe it does look that the mileage is higher, but I have to say that the car is used 97% on hway, commuting to work, good drive , no traffic, I am very light on brakes, so maybe this is the reason that held me for so long.
    Even the mechanic at the dealer service agreed that changing the rear pads at 40k it is not acceptable, and never did happen to me with my two prior cars (not Hondas!).

    But for American Honda, which I called next day after I shoved out 400$, it is business as usual. The "supervisor" even tried to blame the problem on my driving habits !!!, mileage , etc. and did not acknowledge that they continue to mislead and provide sub par quality.

    One thing is sure, I can NOT TRUST Honda for the "reliability" and quality that they pledge in advertisements.

    Maybe a better logo for next campaign should be:

    " You can fool ONE PERSON ALL THE TIME,
    or you can fool ALL PEOPLE ONE TIME,
  • If the sound comes more from the rear of the car, it's likely just the fuel system bleeding off. Can't say I've heard it from the 08 Accord Sedan V6 I have now, but it's not uncommon to have odd ball noises like this.

    I had one car that sounded like it was taking a dribble into the toilet shortly after shut off (likely oil draining back on top of what was in the pan).
  • First off, I'll agree that 30K on brakes is short compared to the two much older Honda's (in the 1990's) I owned. There have been many vehicles in between them and my current 08 Accord Sedan V6. I used to do a big commute with weekend trips, around 30K per year.

    However, I have owned a 90 Dodge Spirit ES V6 (4 wheel disc brakes on that trim level) that would use up front brakes in less than 30K consistently over it's life in the family (three brake jobs on the front in less than 80K). I realize that it's rear brakes in this case.

    Right now I have slightly more than 28K on the 08 Accord Sedan V6 EX-L Navi, and it's getting the annual PA inspection in a week, so we'll see how the brakes are doing. I was told at last years inspection they were fine, both inside and outside pads (dealer knew of the issue, and checked to see if they could sell me a brake job...) - instead they pushed a cabin air filter replacement.

    Eh - it's a wear item, and while 30K is low, it's within norms depending on the car and whose driving - at least it was for the 'American' cars of a not too long ago time.

    Heck, the tires on this Accord look to be wearing at a rate where they will need replaced around 40K - while the much older 93 Accord had tons of tread at 50K yet.

    Nickel ($500) and Dime ($1000) - that's the updated standard, it seems.
  • mbusuttilmbusuttil Posts: 11
    I agree that today's maintenance and repairs are frequently changed,but for 30K or 40 K it is normal for a car to change the pads. Just remember that VSA works automatically all the time ,that even you can't notice that when brakes are in. But i have a Honda Accord from Japan to Europe and can't find there is a problem with changing pads at 40k. Remember also that today's Brake performance are very good and that 's why even have to change the disks at certain milage...because pads and soft disks are more rialable together and performence. :)
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,577
    I would tend to agree...changing brake pads at 40K is not really "premature". I know some cars go a lot further than that, but that doesn't mean they are giving you optimum braking performance. I could live with 40K brake pad fact, I do live with it (not a Honda).

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • boqibamaboqibama Posts: 25
    thanks. It looks like the sound is not always there, wired.
  • wizardmanwizardman Posts: 1
    We have almost the same vehicle, less NAV... We just had our car repaired for some weird engine misfiring at 48,000 miles (orange engine light on). The dealer found 4/6 cracked factory spark plugs. When the computer codes were read, most were "misfire on cylinder X" where X = cylinder #. When I asked what caused the problem, the service manager told me "s**tty plugs" (read: cheap parts). I asked if the problem would occur again to which I received the answer, "It might." As long is "it might" after another 48,000 miles, I am OK with it. BTW, what fixed the problem before the dealer got to it was shutting off the engine and restarting.

    You may start there - is the engine light on? Engine codes are a good place to start (even if the engine light is not on, have the dealer read the computer so all bases are covered...)
  • hackattack5hackattack5 Posts: 315
    edited June 2011
    I don't know Mr Shiftright he said that he drives 97% highway and the brakes started screetching at 30,000 miles which is when he started to destroy the rotors. I would not make excuses for these Accords the brakes are crap. I had an 08 Accord and the brakes and rotors were shot at 19,000 miles. No more Honda's for me
  • Your lucky , mine went at 7500 miles and I was told it was all my fault... I ripped the whole brake system out and put in everything new and not OEM.. An expense I didnt need but now I dont have to worry when my wife drives the car.
  • rkirchoffrkirchoff Posts: 65
    i've got an 08 accord v6 ex-l w/o nav and have not ever had any brake issues. i replaced my factory set at 45,000 miles and am currently still on them at 75,000 miles. i am using honda brake pads too.
  • Thank your lucky stars.. you car must have been one of the ones that were assembled by people who werent drunk on saki. Never will I buy A Honda again.
  • jmillerjmillerjmillerjmiller Posts: 113
    edited June 2011
    2008 Accord Sedan EX-L V6 Navi:

    Just had annual PA inspection at 28K. Original rear brake pads deemed OK with 7 remaining. Had the tsd for the package shelf rattle done.

    As of tomorrow the 3/36 warranty is over - on to the power train only part.
    Regarding assembly people drunk on Saki - I lived in Columbus OH a short time, during which I bought my 08 Accord, and Marysville OH where they assemble them is only 30 or so mins from there. I suspect beer drinking is more likely.
    My personal scorecard (new cars only), problem child = issues dealer could not fix successfully, or repeats of same issue again:

    Brand - Total Number owned - Number of which were problem childs
    Dodge - 2 - 2
    Chevrolet Truck - 1 - 1
    Ford Truck - 1 - 0
    Ford car - 2 - 0
    Honda - 3 - 0
    BMW - 1 - 0
    Toyota Truck - 1 - 0
    Subaru - 1 - 0

    I miss the 2002 Toyota Tundra Limited at times - that was a Lexus like interior and ride, high revving all aluminum V8 - most like a car. Not the large barge they make now. All these have been garage kept, but driven in Mid-Atlantic winters - I doubt this Tundra would ever have developed the corrosion issue with the frame.
  • kendall8kendall8 Posts: 28
    What is this Had the tsd for the package shelf rattle done.??? TY
  • Below is a link to a PDF of the bulletin. There was an earlier bulletin for just the 08 coupe, this newer one includes 09's and sedans. Check the top of the first page for affected models and vin ranges: 20roads%2008-083.pdf

    Basically, on certain sharp pavement humps, you would hear a low rattle in the back. Certain bass notes will show it, but that was rare for the music I play.
  • faster73faster73 Posts: 3
    I noticed a rattle in mine as well. After taking a quick look I found it was the passenger side seat belt buckle. It has a tendency to turn sideways and rattle between the seat and door.
Sign In or Register to comment.