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Honda Accord (2008-2012) Maintenance and Repair



  • tonyf2tonyf2 Posts: 24
    I'm a firm beliver that the mi. minder don't work. I have 12k+ miles on my accord, my first oil change was at 4,500mi, when I checked my oil there was no oil on the stick.
    My minder read 60%. I'm on my third oil change now at 3,800 miles and I'm down 3/4 of a qt of oil and my minder reads 60%. You have to check the oil level, if you go by the minder you'll destroy your engine.
  • bdymentbdyment Posts: 569
    The oil minder is not meant to tell you how much oil is in the engine. It is used to tell you when to change your oil. The oil level MUST BE checked with the dip stick.
  • rkirchoffrkirchoff Posts: 65
    and they live among us. wow! i thought i had heard it all until i read about the person that thought the maintenance minder was for checking oil levels and not for when to change the oil. oh my!
  • tonyf2tonyf2 Posts: 24
    Wow- What you say here does not make sense. So what you say is wait till the minder go to "0" even if your short 2 or 3 qts of oil because it says change your oil now. Oh my.
  • fosterphx1fosterphx1 Posts: 12
    As most of you know, Honda lost a class action suit relative to inferior rear brake pad life. My advice is to put on the best ceramic pads you can find and hope for the best. My garage warrants the pads for life so I only pay the labor charge. Ceramic will extend pad life, eliminate brake dust, and provide a very smooth stop (assuming you replace or resurface the rotors).
  • bdymentbdyment Posts: 569
    Do not let the engine go to two or three quarts down. Check your oil with the dip stick. If it is at the add oil level, then add it. Don't go below a quart down.

    The oil minder advises you when to change your oil assuming you are not using any. If you use some oil between changes then top it up. The oil minder has nothing to do with the oil level.

    Why is your engine using so much oil?
  • I have the same issue, I don't know what to do either.
  • I looked up these postings back in 08 when it happened to mine the first couple times.

    Only thing I have found is to try and avoid rapidly flipping xm channels. Let each one stabilize and play for a few seconds, as I found when channel surfing, if I happened to change the channel when it was going in and out due to reception issues, the complete outage seemed more common.

    When it quits, you get the station and song information, but no audio. And the only way to fix it is to turn off the ignition. I read in a review about a Ford having similar issues occasionally, but they got lucky that Ford's design had the decoder get reset by turning the radio off and on.

    It pisses me off when it happens, and as you found, us owners are SOL.
  • hondalovahondalova Posts: 189
    Car was in for service today. The rattle had gotten much worse before I brought it in. They said there is a TSB out for it and that they tightened something that sounded like it was part of the underside of either the rear speaker or the rear package shelf. Haven't gotten the car back yet but I will post again if I have more info. or its not fixed. -FS :shades:
  • macsanmacsan Posts: 27
    Back in 08 I purchased a brand new Accord EX four cylinder. Several days after, I began hearing a rattle in the rear speaker deck area only when I went over a speed bump or backed out of our driveway which is on a hill. It was beginning to really get on my nerves. I went as far as getting my wife to back it out while I observed and listen in the trunk! I didn't find anything loose I could fix so I took it in to the dealer. Once there I took the service manager out with me so he could hear it. He believed me and not only that seemed to know what it was. He was very nice about it I have to admit. Anyway, they fixed it and it hasn't been a problem so far. There was no TSB on it that I knew of back then . I think he said it was a fastener that they retightened back near the rear deck.
  • hondalovahondalova Posts: 189
    Rattle was better for about 35-40 minutes and has since returned. So, I think they're on the right track, but it appears to be something that either was still tightened enough or which may be stripped.

    I also am still getting absolutely ZERO subwoofer response. Radio has "loosened up," so to speak, as several earlier posters suggested it should and I now have good range of audible change from +6 to -6 on the Bass and Treble adjustments. However, turning the Subwoofer adjustment from +6 to -6 produces absolutely no audible change in sound whatsoever, regardless of how the Bass or Treble are otherwise set (I've mixed and matched).

    I'm wondering if these two problems are related and what's vibrating in back is a broken piece of subwoofer. Thoughts?

    -FS :confuse:
  • This may be a bit far fetched but if your car was built overseas the radio was most likely installed here at the docks.. I had problems deluxe with my japanese built car to find out the car was never destined for America but got here.. I already had the amp installed in the back as per the requirements for the other country and they installed another one in front.when it got here. took weeks to figure it out. Again, just an example of what can happen when things get screwed up with points of delivery
  • hondalovahondalova Posts: 189
    Interesting - I never knew that. But I don't think it matters in my case as my window sticker says final point of assembly was Marysville, Ohio and that my engine (but not my transmission) are U.S. sourced.
  • johngf1johngf1 Posts: 37
    Wondering if anyone has encountered "check gas cap" on their 2010 Accord Coupe. Car has 15,000 miles on the odometer. I always click the gas cap a few times and always turn off the engine when I refuel. Called dealer for appointment if the msg doesn't disappear after driving 30 50 miles. Are there any recalls or open issues? Thanks
  • Be thankful its just a gas cap or a stupid sensor.. By 15k miles I ripped out my whole brake system and installed a non OEM system after spending over 500 dollars with the dealer who told me I didnt know how to drive the car right.. I swear to god, anything more happens to my car and I will take it to the worst neighborhood in an adjoining city and leave the doors unlocked and the windows open while I take a cab to another foreign car dealer
  • This happened to me once after my wife filled up. I think she didn't get the cap on tight enough. I took off the cap, retightened it until it clicked and the light went out after driving for a while.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,570
    This is usually due to a vacuum leak, either at the cap seal (or not being tight enough) or in the evaporative emissions system---it could be as simple as a loose vacuum line.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • pastatiepastatie Posts: 26
    Recently had the "new and improved" rear brake pads dealer installed because I was told the $150 from the class action suit would cover it---it did except for our state sales tax. The kicker was the service advisor promoted turning/cutting the rear rotors. If you have looked at yours lately they are maybe 3/8" thick. My rotors were not warped and the advisor quoted a price, are you ready, of $260 to do the rotors. I of course declined and the pads are seated and wearing properly as of this writing.
    I am searching for any information how to adjust the front headrests. Seriously they are the most uncomfortable headrests I have ever experienced, just look at them. If your neck doesn't break with a serious rear end collision you would be lucky. It almost looks like they should be pulled out and reversed to fit the curve of your neck. Any help here appreciated.
  • kendall8kendall8 Posts: 28
    What a HONDA SCAM. We will pay $150. BUT BEND YOU OVER ,and make you PAY for something you dont need. WIN WIN FOR HONDA. I had same crap happen to me at SOUTH SHORE HONDA ON LONG ISLAND...I have had 7 HONDAS .......NO MORE...IT was my fault back brakes went at 15k, SURE SHOULD HAVE BOUGHT A SONATA .. HONDA loosing its touch. ITS like an AMERICAN car company NOW
  • welcome to the you just got ripped off club... my rotors were so bad at 5k miles they were turned.. I typically pay for my other car 50 dollars for 2.. My price for the Honda just short of your price.. Reminder, most service writers are salespeople.. I ended up ripping up my whole break system from rotors to calipers around 15 k and a mechanic who did not use OEM.. Now its perfect and I dont have to worry about my wife and child killing themselves becuase Honda uses toilet paper for brake parts.. Go to a local mechanic if you are out of warranty... Hondas arent that difficult to fix nor maintain and you will save a bundle. By the way .. I am 57 and I was told by the punk service write that apparently I didnt know how to drive the car.. Thats why the brakes and rotors wore out.. Thank god I didnt have my pocket flame thrower with me.. I did ask him If he could recommend a good driving school.. I have no problem at all with the headrests.. May be a mechanical issue. Are you under warranty.. If so make sure you speak with the manager first to make sure they are covered
  • michael2595michael2595 Posts: 72
    edited August 2011
    arent Hondas assembled here? I have thought about the Hundai but the reviews havent been great and they dont have as long a track record. I love my subaru.... Not a problem .. Had it since 96 with very low mileage.. Also have a mercedes diesel, 1986 with 600,000 miles on it... Original muffler... just change the oil every 3,000 and the timing CHAIN ever 120,000 and its great.

    I would take a look at the jetta diesel or the VWsportwagon diesel.. will last forever and real fun to drive.
  • I had my bad brake pads replaced with the new ones under the class action suit. I have a 2008 EXLV6. No more problems and no unscrupulous service department. They were extremely apologetic for the problem and promised the new ones should last at least 40K miles. No attempt at selling me something I didn't need. Go to another dealer post haste! There are bad dealerships for all brands of cars. The premature wear thing was unfortunate but it sure beats some of the life threatening problems that have occurred with other brands. I will still consider a Honda next time.
  • I had some honda issues too but got them fixed to my satisfaction by taking my honda to a different dealership. Perhaps you ought to try that too.

    The dealership where I bought my Honda tried many times to make me pay for things I felt were not needed nor wanted. I took my car to a different dealership and they treated me with more respect, didn't try to add crap I didn't need, and appreciated my business.
  • hondalovahondalova Posts: 189
    edited August 2011
    You are indeed a patient man. In 2001 a local Nissan dealer had to replace the transmission in my 1999 Nissan Maxima 5 spd.. When they re-connected the shifter, they did a sloppy job of tightening and the stick had about 4" of play in it while it was in gear. I drove right back to the dealership, only to have a 19 year old service writer tell me that I didn't know how to drive stickshift.

    I asked to see his manager, who came right over and said the same thing. I then asked both of them if their health insurance was fully paid. When they looked at me dumbfounded, I added "because I've been driving stickshift for almost 30 years - longer than EITHER of you have been alive - and the next one of you that tells me I don't know how to drive my car is going to need all the health coverage he can muster."

    That got the head of the service department out PDQ.

    He had them take the boot off the linkage where they found that, sure enough, they had failed to properly connect two of the linkage rods. A couple of turns of the wrench and I was good to go.

    The dealership then told me to never bring my car there again.

    As if....! (lol)

    -FS ;)
  • too funny... me patient? One word... Xanax

    I once said at a dealership to a 12 year old salesman, i mean service writer that I was so pissed off at, If I only had a flamethrower ,( A quote from the movie scent of a woman).. The cops were called... They knew me and we had a joke about it.

    Have a prosperous day.
  • My 2009 Accord EXL-V6 has been consuming oil at a rate of 1 qt every 4,000 miles. I'm going in for my 2nd oil change this week with my odometer at 16,500 miles and the car is 24 mos. old. I just had my spark plug #3 fail last week. I forgot to have the service technician show me the bad plug but I have a hunch it was fouled from oil in the combustion chamber. In researching fouled plugs for late model Accords it seemed like most were happening in the 30-40,000 mile range or in the 70-80,000 mile range. A friend of mine who is an expert in auto mechanics thinks it's possible the cylinder walls were not properly scored on my engine and that my oil consumption is due to oil making it past the rings into the combustion chamber and thus fouling 1 spark plug so far. Do you agree with his diagnosis or do you have an alternative explaination?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,570
    I rather doubt that diagnosis, as the amount of oil entering the combustion chamber would be abundant and your car would look like it worked for the mosquito abatement bureau.

    If, in fact, your plugs are fouling from oil burning (which isn't necessarily a slam-dunk conclusion since they would foul much faster than 4K miles in my opinion). then the oil intrusion would be more likely to come from defective valve stem seals or worn valve guides.

    A cylinder leakdown test would reveal all here--no need to be guessing. Compressed air is fed into each cylinder through a device that looks like a spark plug but is actually an entry valve for the compressed air. Then the technician measures the rate of leakage of the compressed air in the cylinder. if he's clever, he can also listen for escaping air through the air filter or engine intake (that would be valve guides) or the tailpipe (that would be cylinder rings) -- although the rate of escape might be too subtle for that perception.

    If the cylinder leakdown shows no defect, then your plug fouling might be due to improper fuel mixture or the wrong spark plug installed or the fuel being used. You should double-check that all that is in order.

    As for the consumption itself, one quart every 4,000 is quite normal and no cause for worry----but the plug fouling is a cause for worry and should be investigated.

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  • dilt1dilt1 Posts: 11
    If you head over to the VCM post. Print out the service bulletins, present them to you service adviser and get them installed.

    for those suffering with engine and oil consumption issues, please take a look at the following two links for service bulletins 10-033 and 11-033.

    I had the same problems with my 2010 V6 and the oil consumption seems to have abated with no noticeable consumption noted over the last 2000 miles.

    Insist the appropriate service bulletin(s) are installed in your vehicle. Print out the bulletins and take them with you. Hard to argue when you have the documentation in hand.
  • I had TSB A10-033 performed last week when the plug was changed out. I will request TSB A11-033 be performed tomorrow night when my oil is changed. When I mentioned my post in this blog to my automotive consultant, he also added that if the "scraper ring" on the piston was doing it's job the only other way for oil to enter the combustion chamber was by faulty valve stem seals as Mr. Shiftright mentioned above. Thanks for all of your excellent feedback. My regular grade gasoline is always purchased at the same BP/Amoco station. Should I consider switching brands? If so, what is recommended?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,570
    I read the TSBs and the first one about plug fouling may be worth doing but the second one seems to suggest an oil consumption issue way worse than yours, so possibly not related to your problem.

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