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Honda Accord (2008-2012) Maintenance and Repair



  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 11,025
    Yes, this should fill your heart with warm fuzzies! As icyou812 mentioned, perhaps it's because people aren't having vehicle issues. It's a maintenance & repair discussion, so if you're an 2008-2012 Accord owner, it's probably best that it's dead rather than having "trouble" comments pouring in.


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  • rodutrodut Posts: 343
    I agree !
    I remember the glorious times when I was the owner of a 2005 Chrysler Pacifica (bought brand new). I was here, on Edmunds, every afternoon. Each time I had a couple of new pages to read !!!
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 11,025
    Well, I'm very sorry to hear of your past automotive trauma... we had a 2003 Pacifica (or around that year), so I feel... or felt... your pain.


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  • rodutrodut Posts: 343
    Wow ! You may remember that Chrysler's logo during those times was: "Inspiration comes standard".

    As a joke, I modified that into: "Clunking comes standard" (while chatting on Edmunds about the low speed suspension clunking many Pacifica owners experienced). Later I saw my joke quoted all over internet. No dealership was ever able to fix that clunking. It was there since day one, and it also was there the day I traded it (for a 2008 Honda Pilot).
  • rodutrodut Posts: 343
    Does somebody know why the 2012 Honda Accord user guide says:
    "Break-in Period: Do not change the oil until the scheduled maintenance time" ?

    For highway driving I heard that may be 12,000 Kms (7,500 miles). So a lot. Is there something special about the oil they initially put in the engine, at the factory ?
  • Rodut

    Honda makes 14 million internal combustion engines each and every year. Yes 14 million. I am not much a car man although I own a 2008 Honda Accord, a 1997 F250 and two Model A Ford Sedans. My wife and I figured that Honda knows more about their engines than we do. She helped fight that urge to change oil immediately; and yes I waited, waited and waited for the dash oil change indicator to roll around to a change oil status. When that happened we went to Mobil1 and have stayed with it. Today, my Honda drives new and I still love it. There have been a couple threads on this very subject by people much better informed than I but not better informed than Honda. I'd did check my oil often and after a couple of months when the oil stick showed oil was needed, I added dino. This process was really hard for me. Waiting, Waiting. Honda's "break in oil" looked sick; but, since the date of my car's build, Honda has made 70 million more engines and the world loves them.
  • rodutrodut Posts: 343

    I asked the question because there are two opposite recommendations, both coming from the very smart guys at Honda:

    1) the 1st one says to not change the initial break-in oil till the change indicator tells you to do it. Given the distance I drive per year, this is likely to happen one year from now, when the car will have 1 year (future) + 1 year (since the car was manufactured, because I bought a new 2012 leftover) = 2 years.

    2) The 2nd direction coming from the Honda too says to change the oil after one year maximum, doesn't matter the mileage (it seems that the oil shouldn't stay for more than one year inside any engine).

    As you can see one Honda recommendation tells me to replace the oil now (because the oil stayed there for one year already), the other recommendation tells me to wait for approximately another year (till the break-in oil, if such a thing really exists, is used).

    You don't really have to answer questions, if you only know that the Honda guys are very smart. We all know that. Also we all know they make lots of engines.
  • Rodut

    Prior to WWII the U.S. Army, Navy stockpiled hundreds and hundreds of trucks, cars, vehicles and machines of all sorts. The Amry found that oil/lubricants did not degrade by just being parked for months or years.

    If Honda thought that oil wore out because a car sat on a dealer's lot they'd tell you. Oil does not degraded in a year's time just sitting in a crakcase. The one year BS refers to cars "driven" by an owner for one year but with mileage so low that the oil indicatior doesn't do it's thing. Yet, no one ever sends the oil for a test. May I repeat, 14 million internal combustion engines are built by Honda each year. To me and probably only to me that means Honda is way smarter about their products than I. However, my Honda dealer's svc dept. lies, steals and works extra hard to seperate me from my money. Once an oil pump for the valves failed making a heck of a racket. The svc writer and supervisor told me that was normal for Honda's with 30,000 miles. I came home, opened Google and typed in a description. Bang on, the various sites told me what the story was. With the facts the svc dept were forced to fix the car (they were ignoring a Honda Svc Bulletin). My engine wont make that kind of noise until it passes the 3 million mile mark. But, I digress. Know what? change your oil ! You'll be happier; but, do it because you want to not based on svc dept BS.
  • rodutrodut Posts: 343
    No, Honda's service department didn't give me any BS. I didn't even talk to them at all. I was just reading the owner's manual, like any new car owner should, and I found those two incompatible recommendations. I sent an email to Honda, with the same question. I guess they will say the same thing you said. Probably that oil, as you say, is OK after just sitting in the engine for one year.

    Peace !
  • rodutrodut Posts: 343
    Correct. Honda confirmed that the oil sitting in a brand new vehicle stays OK. So we count one year since the car was put on the road, not since the manufacturing date.

    Also they said the initial 0W20 engine oil contains some special break-in aditives. So it should stay there till the maintenance minder tells you to replace it. Replacing it early would be bad for the engine.
  • rodutrodut Posts: 343
    I remember looking under the hood of an EX-L (at the dealership). It had a black pipe connecting the top of those things where the suspension is. I think that bar is called a "strut tower bar". My SE doesn't have it. I saw in some pictures on the web that other Accords also don't have it. To be honest I thought that the trim level affects only the luxury items, not steel pipes !

    I can't see where the spark plugs are. Either they are hidden, or as a cost cutting measure the SE doesn't have them ... LOL.
  • rodutrodut Posts: 343
    Does somebody have any idea about how to adjust the headlights ? The screws are hidden behind those sheets of metal, and the left headlight has a black plastic box behind it. I don't know what that plastic box is, and how to remove it.

    On my previous 2001 Accord it was piece of cake (the screws were very accessible).

    Do I have to remove the whole headlight to turn those adjustment screws ?! It would make no sense. Anything becomes more and more complicated.
  • skywalkaskywalka Posts: 6
    I use a 2008 Accord V6 with 28k mileage. I noticed today as i was reverse out of my garage that; as i shifted the auto gear to R the indicator on D was blinking and the check engine light came on. Luckily for me i had a scanner in the trunk so i pulled it out and checked and i saw these codes P0706 and P1717. Does anybody have and idea what these codes mean and how i can fix it?

    Appreciate your help.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,604
    You have an electrical problem related to the Transmission Range Switch. it could be the switch, the connector to the switch, or the wiring from the switch to the PCM, or the connector to the PCM. Could be a short, a bad ground, a bad switch, etc. It is not a mechanical problem.

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  • skywalkaskywalka Posts: 6
    Thanks Mr Shift!!! I'd try and have the switch changed and see if this solves the problem.
  • My 2009 honda accord ex has just about 65,000 miles on it. for the past few months now. the engine will make a grinding noise when cold start up. If i was to turn the engine off and then back on. No grinding noise. If I let it sit for an hour. The grinding noise comes back. I have gone to more then 10 shops 4 of them honda dealership. 1 honda dealership said it's my power steering and broken seal. the other said its my vtec selenoid needs to be replaced and drivetrain adjustment. The other 2 dealership said its a actuator problem. When my car starts up it doesn't activate the actuator to lubricate when start up. The other shops said pretty much the same thing as the dealer have told me. But now I'm in a loop. Has any actually gotten this issue fixed?
  • Honda30Honda30 Posts: 16
    Does the grinding noise get louder when you turn the steering wheel after a cold start?
  • hondalovahondalova Posts: 189
    Having three problems with my 2011 Accord V-6 manual coupe (besides the fact that I've never liked this car):

    (1) when shifting from 1st to 2nd and/or 2nd to third, the gates feel notchy - sometimes 3rd gear feels almost like its not there and I have to pop back out into neutral and push it forward again, and

    (2) when I upshift at anything more than 2000-2500 rpm, I get a shudder or what feels like slippage in the engagement of the drivetrain (this happens in 3rd gear ALL the time, even when I let out clutch to downshift, unless I throttle blip), and

    (3) cannot accelerate aggressively or tranny shudders and slips at every shift below 5th gear (but not when fully in gear between shifts). High rpm shifts produce a lot of protest noises from tranny/clutch at each engagement point. Have never liked this gearbox - the one in my '04 was awesome, but this plasticky notchy one is a piece of crap and one of the reasons I just bought my wife a Mazda CX-5 to replace her recently wrecked Honda.

    I am NOT super aggressive with the throttle - the car has 53,000 miles on it since I got it brand new in May, 2011, most of which are long-distance highway commuting. Both of my prior Honda Accords (a '91 EX Sedan and an '04 EX-L V-6 Coupe) and my last Nissan ('99 Maxima) were bought brand-new and sold with close to 200,000 miles on them with the original clutch, so I'm fairly confident that its not me.

    I'm also pissed b/c this all started just past the 50,000 mile powertrain warranty and I'm now afraid to go to dealer b/c he will charge me a diagnostic just to even tell me what's wrong with the car.

    Any ideas? Tech bulletins? Recalls? As always, thanks for your assistance.

  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    Hondas come with a 5 year/60,000 mile powertrain warranty if bought new. Take it on their dime.
  • I have a 08 2.4 5 speed sedan that was great for the first 5k, then started having shift issues like you describe in #1. I also had issues with it popping out of third as I let the clutch out on the upshift. There is a older TSB for the 2003-2008 Accord 6 speed coups for that issue. Apparently the syncro and or shift sleeve was faulty. Your other symptoms sound different from the TSB. After much run around from the dealer, I finally changed my gear lube to synthetic BG Syncro Shift 2 and all shift problems went away. At 75K + and still shifting like butter. I wonder if there is an issue with the cluch and or flywheel? Like the graduate said, get it to the dealer and see what they say. Ride with the tech for a test drive so they can't say "we can't replicate the problem." I heard that line several times from my former dealer.
  • hondalovahondalova Posts: 189
    Thank you both. I've always thought the flywheel felt unbalanced on this car but always forgot to mention it to the dealer. I generally don't have the car serviced at the dealer after the 1st year of ownership as it is easier to have my local mechanic by my office (whom I've used for 20+ years - and believe me, I'm a tough critic - this guy is good) do oil changes and basic maintenance service.

    I thought powertrain was only 50k - so that's good to know. Will make appointment to bring car in and update you all about what I find.

  • I hit a curb going way too fast and bent rear wheel. Honda dealer wanted $500 for a new one. A local body shop sold me an aftermarket one for $150. Can't tell the difference. Go online, you can find one for probably even less.
  • I had the same problem with my '08 4-cyl accord. Received memo to take it in for reset on the computer due to excessive oil consumption. Did that and consumption dropped to less than 1/2 qt in 5000 mi. You might look into that one the 6 cyl as well. May or may not be the same issue.
  • Try

    I got a great deal on a reconditioned rim from them.

    Also, check if shimmy is in the steering wheel or just felt in the seat. If its in the steering wheel, it's likely one of your front rims, while if its in just seat, its probably one of the rears. If your unsure, try rotating them first to see if there's any difference in where you feel it. Any road hazard big enough to damage all four rims at once would almost certainly be a pants-wetting moment. In other words, you'd remember it. Short of that you probably don't need more than two rims at most.
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