Ford Ranger Climate Control
I have a 2000 Mazda B2500 truck with a no heat problem - I understand the Mazda is identical to the Ranger.
The trouble appears to be the radiator hot water does not flow through the heater core which is located in the cab directly behind the glove box.
When I’m driving the temp gauge shows normal – indicating that the thermostat is working ok.
Last year when I also had no heat I removed the dash board and replaced the blender actuator.
I verified the actuator is working by placing an L shaped Allen wrench into the slot located on the top right of the unit and when I changed the heater control from blue to red I could see the Allen wrench swing back and forth.
I disconnected the heater core input and return hoses located on the truck exterior fire wall then ran a low pressure hose - the water ran freely through the core indicating no blockage.
When I change the heater control knob towards blue I can feel the air get cooler and less cool (not warm) when the knob is moved when I turn the knob to the red area – so I’m assuming that is all working ok.
In tracing the water flow from the radiator to the heater core, I found that the radiator top hose feeds a connector that has an electrical connector on top (see below). Not sure if the electrical connector is for the instrument panel or if this is some sort of switch to allow the heated water to flow to the heater core. The water then continues out of the left side of the connector to another connector unit where 2 hoses go to/from the heater coil and 1 goes to the bottom hose of the radiator.
I guess my question is do you agree that I have a water flow problem and what could prevent the water from flowing to the heater core?
Greatly appreciate any suggestions, thoughts or recommendations.
Can anyone please tell me how the how water flows through the system once the thermostat opens.
The trouble appears to be the radiator hot water does not flow through the heater core which is located in the cab directly behind the glove box.
When I’m driving the temp gauge shows normal – indicating that the thermostat is working ok.
Last year when I also had no heat I removed the dash board and replaced the blender actuator.
I verified the actuator is working by placing an L shaped Allen wrench into the slot located on the top right of the unit and when I changed the heater control from blue to red I could see the Allen wrench swing back and forth.
I disconnected the heater core input and return hoses located on the truck exterior fire wall then ran a low pressure hose - the water ran freely through the core indicating no blockage.
When I change the heater control knob towards blue I can feel the air get cooler and less cool (not warm) when the knob is moved when I turn the knob to the red area – so I’m assuming that is all working ok.
In tracing the water flow from the radiator to the heater core, I found that the radiator top hose feeds a connector that has an electrical connector on top (see below). Not sure if the electrical connector is for the instrument panel or if this is some sort of switch to allow the heated water to flow to the heater core. The water then continues out of the left side of the connector to another connector unit where 2 hoses go to/from the heater coil and 1 goes to the bottom hose of the radiator.
I guess my question is do you agree that I have a water flow problem and what could prevent the water from flowing to the heater core?
Greatly appreciate any suggestions, thoughts or recommendations.
Can anyone please tell me how the how water flows through the system once the thermostat opens.
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Comments
Be careful, a garden hose has 30pounds pressure or more, the truck system is set to 15 max then it comes out past the cap. Don't blow up a heater core with too much pressure.
Does the truck have a cut-off valve on one of the heater hoses? Is this working?
Ranger AC switches are strange, it that they are a 'push in' to turn on, and 'push in again' to turn off. It doen't indicate this much at all on the controls. The switch twists to control the air output - max, dash, vent, defrost, etc, but you have to push this switch to turn it on or off.
Don't feel bad, the first Ranger I test drove I returned and told the deal the AC didn't work. The salesman leaned in, pushed the knob, and said 'Yes it does'.
Regards,
Norm
Find the leak and recharge. Or, just throw a can into it and see if this fixes it.
The resister pack is on the top of the fan housing, under the hood, on the passenger side.
Anybody have any ideas?
Thanks
I notice that when I turn the heat knob I do get heat and I can hear a motor of some kind and what I think is one of the doors move if that makes sense.
Anyone else have this problem or any suggestions on approach to find the cause?
It seems to happen when the air compressor kicks on. Is this a sign of a bearing or the whole air compressor unit going.
Any other things I need to look at?
keep driving it until it get worse. Don't drive it until it get really worse or it could freeze up, etc. But if you are only feeling a pulse at idle, the compressor might last for quite a while like this.
To say it in a different way........ the temperature dial has no effect, it's stuck on HOT,
the mode selector switch provides an "off" only, no choice of where the air goes, always goes to the defroster. The fan speed selector still functions.
Seems to be something in the vacuum control. Any ideas of where to look?
I've got a 6 cylinder engine but I'm sure the vacuum systems are similar. I will check vacuum lines in the engine compartment.
There used to be some postings about some some patch jobs that could be tried. You might try to find other Ranger forums and look for this problem and associated solutions.