Mazda CX-9 Heat and Air Conditioning

melmommy4melmommy4 Member Posts: 3
I am researching the CX9, hoping to buy the Grand Touring in December. I test drove one last week and loved it. I can't remember if there were air registers in the 3rd row. Are there any? If not, has anyone found it a problem? I have 4 children and the 3rd row will be used often. Living in hot South Arkansas, I am afraid the kids will toast back there.


  • onepeopleonepeople Member Posts: 11
    We bought a CX-9 a couple of months ago. There are no air ducts in the third row.
    Can't see it being a problem, though, as the A/C is very strong.
  • mdhuttonmdhutton Member Posts: 195
    When I was a kid, I spent many an hour riding in that rearward-facing jump seat in a Ford Country Squire wagon in August when it was about 108 outside. I learned to deal with it, and I'm sure you're little crumb-crushers will in the 3rd row of your CX-9.
  • cericceric Member Posts: 1,092
    Actually there are air ducks for the 3rd passengers. They are hidden under the 2nd row seats and are located on the floor. Fold the 2nd row seat down and move them forward to see them. There are two as a pair.
  • maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    I'm pretty sure the air ducts under the 2nd row seats are only for heating.

    As far as 3rd row cooling, I have found (actually my kids) that the 3rd row is adequately cooled at outside temps up to 115. We regularly visit the CA/AZ border and I have yet to hear one of mine complain that it's too hot in the back.
  • cericceric Member Posts: 1,092
    I think you somehow jumped to that conclusion.

    Note that the air ducks below 2nd row seats stop functioning when the air flow is only directed to the upper torso. That might be how you jump to that conclusion.
  • maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    umm, ok. Jump, walk or run: I still arrived at my conclusion.

    Perhaps I should have prefaced that with: when in AUTO mode.

    Now that we have that out of the way, let's discuss how effective floor vents are for the perceived cooling of a vehicle. Next time it's 90 degrees outside, manually run your A/C through your floor vents only and let me know how long you last in the vehicle. Cooling through floor vents is plain useless unless you have severe foot sweat (in which case I'd recommend seeing a good doctor). There's a reason the auto mode doesn't route cooling through floor vents.
  • cericceric Member Posts: 1,092
    AUTO mode automatically determines the best vents to send air, fan speed, etc. When AUTO mode starts to blast with cold air, it usually start with blasting air thru upper vents because it is more effective that way as you said. However, eventually when desired temperature is nearly reached, AUTO mode then sends air thru all vents.

    Again, I have to tested it myself to believe that the floor vents is completely blocked out from cold air. Right now, I have a hard time believing it.
  • cericceric Member Posts: 1,092
    After some testing, I believe you were right. I stand corrected.
    In AUTO mode, cold air flows thru the upper vent, hot air flows thru the floor vent (which makes sense). For cool air to come out of the floor vents under 2nd row seats, one has to choose the venting mode manually, not AUTO mode.
  • skc7skc7 Member Posts: 4
    I have a 2008 GT AWD with 13K+ miles. I live in central Ohio and lately because I have not needed A/C I have turned off the A/C, which also appears to turn off (at least the light goes out) the "Auto" mode. However, I have noticed, with the exception of introducing A/C, that the "Auto" mode still appears to work with respect to introducing heat, satisfying temp settings, and controlling where air flow comes out. One phenomena that I have noticed is that after initial startup and within the first two to three miles, the HVAC system momentarily (one second or less) shuts down (fan speed goes to zero), and then returns immediately and continues to operate properly the remaining time you have it on. Has anyone else noticed this phenomena? As long as it always turns right back on, I probably will not do anything about it. However, it is strange.
  • cericceric Member Posts: 1,092
    When A/C is completely off, all lights on the A/C control panel are off (not just the "Auto"). Correct?
    Recently I have been testing how much MPG I could save by turning off A/C (since the weather is pretty cool, I opened the moonroof). My A/C has been completely silent. I don't recall A/C actions at all.

    You might want to go to the dealer and have it checked out.
    BTW, my experiment showed that you can easily save 1-2mpg with A/C off..... ;)
  • mford1970mford1970 Member Posts: 1
    I think this car has an electrical gremlin. The trip odometers reset themselves regularly and the dash dim light (for when the headlights come on) also resets itself. Now, within the last two months, when you turn off the car the rear air comes on. The first time my wife just turned the car on and back off. This would fix the problem. Today when it happened, I turned the car back on and turned off all air controls. I then turned the car off and the rear vents were still blowing. I turned the car back on and off again. The rear air remained on for over six minutes. I turned the car on and off again at this point and it finally turned off. This has happened four times in two months.

    Has anyone else had this problem or the odometer ones? I took it to the dealer three months ago when the check engine light came on and the car started to run real rough and then would die. Took them three days to figure out a vaccuum line had broken near the firewall. They never could figure why the meters reset.
  • cericceric Member Posts: 1,092
    Did you install accessories recently?
    It seems like some electrical short exists in your vehicle (that causes improper grounding).
    You need to have it checked out by your dealers before the OE warranty expires.
  • debbiejaydebbiejay Member Posts: 5
    Is anyone having an issue with the rear air controller in the 07 touring? If the rear air controller is off, then the rear air is uncontrollable. It blows out at full speed and the front fan control speed does not change the rear fan speed at all. If I adjust the temperature control knob, the rear air fan speed goes higher and lower accordingly. Is this right? Should I have to keep the rear air switch engaged full time to keep the rear air off all the time? Shouldn't the option be, rear air switch off=front controls work all of the air, rear air switch on=rear controls work rear air and front do not. Does this make sense?
  • debbiejaydebbiejay Member Posts: 5
    I have another issue with the a/c in my 07 touring. Intermittently, the front fan will turn on full blast after the car is turned off. Sometimes keys are out of ignition and in my hand when this happens. I don't have the keyless start option. My dealer says that since this is intermittent they can't fix it until they see it happen. I have seen other posts about this, but would like to know if anyone has had this repaired and what exactly was done to repair it? Thanks!
  • cericceric Member Posts: 1,092
    Something is not right with your A/C.
    Have your dealer look at it before warranty expires (soon I presumed).
    You could have a faulty switch in the A/C system. :(
  • redbull22redbull22 Member Posts: 4
    I have the same problem... Same year and model. Well, actually I can't control it at all, the speed is full blast and the temp will not change either. Did you ever solve your problem and if so what was it?
  • debbiejaydebbiejay Member Posts: 5
    Initially mine was like yours, full blast only. The dealer changed a relay and now the front temp knob is the only control for rear air when rear air switch is off. After checking again with my dealer and poring through the owners manual, I learned that the rear air is now working as designed. Mazda really missed the boat on this one. The front temp knob is the only available control for the rear air when the rear air control is Off. I find this annoying and illogical. But I have learned to leave the rear air switch on at all times.
  • redbull22redbull22 Member Posts: 4
    Yes, but does it now work when rear control is "on"? Sadly I am 1000miles over warranty.
  • debbiejaydebbiejay Member Posts: 5
    I'm not sure I understand what you are asking. When the rear control is on, the only way to control the rear air is from the knobs in the back seat. The rear controls have always functioned correctly for me.
  • stonponystonpony Member Posts: 4
    I have the same issue in my 07 sport. It has only happened twice in 18 mos. I have not mentioned it to the dealer yet but I will next visit. The last time it happened (last week) it took several attempts of turning car on & off to get it to shut off. :confuse:
  • vg33e powervg33e power Member Posts: 314
    So does anyone have a definate answer and or parts replaced to the mystical "rear air coming on full blast after turning off vehicle myth" I just picked up a used 2007 CX-9 and the day I brought it home (Friday) I turned it off and the rear air blasted on itself, I came back to leave on the car about 15 minutes later and it was off....

    So does anyone have a definate answer? Any Mazda techs out there that have encountered or fixed this issue?

    I am out of warranty so if it just a switch or a relay a part number and location is all I need to purchase it and install it myself. Thanks!
  • stonponystonpony Member Posts: 4
    Check out the "new member thread" he is a Mazda tech. I asked him, see his reply below

    If you're referring to the blower motor (fan for air coming out of the dash vents--front blower, or fan for air coming out of the vents on back of center console--rear blower), TSB 07-008/09 addresses that issue. If you haven't driven 36,000 miles yet, take your vehicle into your nearest dealer and mention the TSB number listed above.

    However if you're referring to a radiator/condenser fan under the hood, that may run to cool the motor when you turn the car off.
  • debbiejaydebbiejay Member Posts: 5
    Thanks! This is super helpful. My dealer tech seemed baffled since the problem wouldn't happen when the car was with them. Now I have something to go back with since I am still in warranty. Really appreciate your help.
  • cericceric Member Posts: 1,092
    Dealer has access to electronic versions of TSBs.

    Last time I printed out TSB when I visited my dealer, the service advisor returned it to me and said, "We can find it on our computer."
  • vg33e powervg33e power Member Posts: 314
    My CX9 is out of warranty so I asked my buddy that works at Riverside Mazda to hook me up with a copy of TSB 07-008/09. I read through it and was very simple and straight forward. I bought the relay that the TSB said to replace (part# G115-67-730) replaced it (under hood relay box closest to the driver's side fender) and up to right now no more occurences.
  • bigdog19bigdog19 Member Posts: 1
    we are NOT car people. have a 2007 Mazda cx9. when you turn the key off and remove the key the air conditioning stays on and you can still make the windows go up and down. the A/C turns off after about 30 seconds to a minute. is this some new thing or is our electrical system messed up? thanks in advance for the help.
  • imamgimamg Member Posts: 136
    There is a window of time that allows you to still use the windows, this is normal... the ac/ staying on after the car is turned off is not normal...and there's a known issue with it. There's a relay that hangs open too long. Ask your dealer about it. It's not a difficult repair.
  • 08mazdaowner08mazdaowner Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2008 CX9 and took my car in today as it was doing the same's the relay switch and they are charging me $149 to fix it...I wish I had researched it more before paying so much!!! If you are past the 36k warranty, it's not covered...
  • vg33e powervg33e power Member Posts: 314
    WOW! $149 to open hood, pop off relay box lid, remove both front and rear blower relays, install 2 X $20 relays, snap relay box lid back on, close hood and voila!!
  • cericceric Member Posts: 1,092
    There is a reason why knowing your vehicle costs you much less in maintenance.
    If the same had happened to me, I would read the TSB first, and try it fix it myself if my CX9 was out of warranty.

    Another thing people should consider is it to call MazdaUSA corporate. If you argue your case calmly, Mazda could pay for the parts, and you pay for the labor cost. It helps, but not entirely. This is especially true when your CX9 is barely beyond 36K miles.

    Anyway, early models (2008) have more problems (already better than 2007).
    Buying a 2010 model should be a much safer decision.

    I personally am not aware of any vehicle that is problem-free. My co-worker's Lexus RX330 already had two stall issues. That is a much bigger problem than the A/C staying on. You got stranded for THAT. And, yet, he seems to still love
    his "reliable" Lexus. Go figure. ;)
  • coachizcoachiz Member Posts: 9
    I've already had the phantom "blower comes on after turning off the vehicle" problem. The dealer replaced the front blower relay (#G11567730 MSRP $15.36) in warranty & now the rear blower relay intermittently does the same thing now that the vehicle is out of warranty - make sure you have the dealer replace both if the vehicle is in warranty - live & learn from my mistake.

    The new problem is in the AC but is totally separate of the relay problem. After many days of 90 degree weather & constantly running the AC, I began to hear a swishing sound under the dash. On left turns, the swishing sound would be accompanied by a fan & swish sound like a boat propeller entering the water. After a few days, the noises were accompanied by moisture on the passenger mat & all around the underside of the dash. After reading many posts, I determined I had a clogged AC evaporator tube. I found the tube outlet under the vehicle & blew out the obstruction with an air compressor hose. The water caught in the evaporator came gushing out. The good news is that I cleared the obstruction - the bad news is that during this entire process, my front blower has stopped working while the rear blower continues to work. The AC is working but you have to sit in the back to stay cool. I checked the relay to see if that may be the problem but it wasn't. I checked all fuses related to the front blower but they're all good.

    Has anyone had this problem - I'm guessing I may have fried my blower motor but I want confirmation & history before I rip my dash apart?

    Please help!!!
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    "..blew out the obstruction..."

    No, you blew the "obstruction" (mouse nest??) BACK into the A/C plenum area where it is blocking the blower from turning.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    For many of us, maybe even the clear majority, DRY and COOLISH airflow continuously directed to the face and upper body can be discomforting, VERY discomforting. So I often override the automatic functionality and re-route cooling airflow to the footwell vents.

    The above is especially true when the human comfort equation tilts to the heating side, COLD surrounding outside landscape, and the system still INSISTS on routing cool and DRY airflow to the face and upper body.

    NipponDenso, Denso US, IDIOTS ALL...!!
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    edited July 2011
    "..let's discuss how effective floor vents are for the perceived cooling of the vehicle.."

    And now let's broaden the discussion....

    Yes, our "perception" of rapid cooldown of the vehicle is heavily influenced by the boundiful level of cool and dry airflow that is automatically routed to our face and upper body in cooling mode. BUT ONLY IN COOLING MODE.

    What about when the human comfort equation has tilted toward the need for HEATING, the surrounding landscape is COLD, and these systems still go into COOLING mode, coolish and DRY system airflow from the dash outlets.

    It is at those times, mostly, that the system needs to remain in, switch into, footwell airflow outlet mode.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    "..I have a hard time believing it..."

    Believe it...!

    Most modern day climate control systems when in automatic mode and the cabin temperature is with a few degrees of system setpoint will ONLY route airflow via the dash outlets. (Doesn't mean you can't override it.)

    If you look at the internal design of the A/C plenum area, blower, evaporator and heater core placement, you can easily see that it was designed primarily for dash outflow, "cooling" mode.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    When you first start your car the blower motor speed will be zero or surpressed until the engine water jacket was to ~130F, heating mode, or if the A/C evaporator isn't "cool", for cooling mode.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    edited July 2011
    When you manually override a function in most new climate control systems ONLY that single function drops out of "auto" mode, everything else, unless also manually overriden, remains under automatic control.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    My '95 LS400, ~800 miles "outgoing" got 25MPG hwy, 70+MPH, with the A/C on. Return trip was 28MPG with A/C compressor disabled most of the trip.

    OAT for the entire trip was not so hot as to be really discomforting even with teh windows (tinted) up.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Your front A/C system has a reheat/remix blend door wherein the outlet air temperature can be moderated, modulated, independent of blower speed. Mostly likely the rear system does not so blower speed is used to modulate the cooling level.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    edited July 2011
    Perhaps Mazda is even wiser than we think, or at least modeso than I thought.

    There is an aftermarket device, EED by airsept(.com), that can be used to keep the blower motor running (intermittently running, interval timer) up to a hour after you switch off the ignition.

    Absent DRYING the evaporator immediately after use via some method such as the EED you may soon encounter a serious level of mould and mildew odor as a result of the "leavings" of the microbes thriving in the cool, damp, and dank A/C plenum area.

    Even worse yet you may encounter a thoroughly MISTED, FOGGED over windshield about 3-5 miles down the road some early coolish morning drive absent an evaporator drying system.

    Mazda may now be using such a system.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    The A/C blower may be running after the ignition is switched off in order to DRY the evaporator(s). Mazda may have a method of detecting just how much moisture is left on the 8,000, 10,000 square inches of evaporator, evaporators, cooling vane surface area and will operate the blower accordingly.

    See the EED write up at
  • coachizcoachiz Member Posts: 9
    edited July 2011
    I grabbed my Guinness Book of World Records & looked up the "Worlds' Smallest Mouse". Even Whiskers from Ocala, FL wouldn't fit in the drain tube or the plenum so I think I'll discount your mouse nest theory. The blower was dead before I moved the obstruction. Any more creative or helpful ideas??
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    edited July 2011
    Well, first, regarding mouse size. Some years ago, even after I had sealed every possible entry point, we kept getting mice inside the plenum area of our '94 Aerostar. It turned out that they were getting into the front cowl area and thus into the A/C plenum by squeezing through the tiny opening around the wiper posts.


    If the position of the squirrel cage blower motor/assembly is like many others today, motor below the squirrel blower itself and shaft vertically oriented, it's highly likely that water got into the motor commutator and brushes area.

    That wouldn't blow a fuse as the motor simply wouldn't draw any current.
  • davichodavicho Member Posts: 190
    I guarantee you this is not the case...Mazda has a TSB out for this concern and it states to replace the relays because the original relays do not have the proper load capacity to keep them off after ignition is turned off. It is simply an improper relay function and not a pre-set function of the HEVAC system.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Granted, what you're saying is possible, relay contacts not releasing, but i have my doubts.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    "....I turned it off and the rear air blasted on itself..'

    "...15 minutes later and it was off..."

    That would mean the "relay" contacts closed just as/after the ignition was switched off. That IS NOT a function of a relay, ANY relay, that is known to man. Much more likely a logic flaw in the Body Electronics ECU firmware.

    Plus which, VERY few, if any, automotive HVAC blower motors are energized via a simple relay, most are transistor driven using a PWM technique to control speed.
  • davichodavicho Member Posts: 190
    Look it up TSB 07-008/09

    I did the relay swap per TSB and have never had it occur once again since.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Not a simple "passive" relay..?

    Having a relay fault wherein it closes the contacts asynchronously is unheard of.

    Having the contacts already closed and remaining closed after power is removed is certainly not unheard of and generally only happens after many hours of use, contacts "pitted".
  • thatkidkrazethatkidkraze Member Posts: 1
    Yeah this same thing just happened to my 2008 Cx-9 also, the blower motor just died Yesterday, I'm taking it to Mazda tomorrow, this is gonna suck.
  • tsd151tsd151 Member Posts: 1
    I would definitely look into other manufacturers. We bought a 2011 CX9 grand touring, loaded. Have had it for 3 months and live in Yuma, AZ where temps are routinely 110+. Pull up to a stop light and sit for more than 30 seconds and 95+ degree air starts pouring out. Never had a problem with other cars even in this heat. Mazda has acknowledged an "engineering" problem with the fan controls (Computerized), however they have still not come up with a fix. Brand new car $30k+ and it's a POS (Piece of>>>). We've contacted a Lemon Law attorney and it sounds like a lot more future "non-Mazda" buyers out there. Just thought I'd share our story to help you make an informed decision. I learned my lesson...stick to Honda products.
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