Ford Ranger Warning Lights and Codes

homeranger

I have a 02 Ranger with the 2.3, today my airbag dash warning light started flashing at me. First it flashed a sequence of 3 - 6, then switched to a 4 - 6 pattern, after the pattern repeats a couple times the light stays on.

Does anybody have a list of the codes, or any inkling what these sequences mean?

rangerman1998

i got u right hear this is all the codes for the ranger
Ford OBD-II Trouble Codes
P1000 OBD-II Monitor Testing Incomplete
P1001 KOER Test Cannot Be Completed
P1039 Vehicle Speed Signal Missing or Improper
P1051 Brake Switch Signal Missing or Improper
P1100 Mass Air Flow Sensor Intermittent
P1101 Mass Air Flow Sensor out of Self-Test Range
P1112 Intake Air Temperature Sensor Intermittent
P1116 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor is out of Self-Test Range
P1117 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor Intermittent
P1120 Throttle Position Sensor out of range
P1121 Throttle Position Sensor Inconsistent with Mass Air Flow Sensor
P1124 Throttle Position Sensor out of Self-Test Range
P1125 Throttle Position Sensor Intermittent
P1127 Heated Oxygen Sensor Heater not on During KOER Test
P1128 Heated Oxygen Sensor Signals reversed
P1129 Heated Oxygen Sensor Signals reversed
P1130 Lack of Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch - Adaptive Fuel Limit - Bank No. 1
P1131 Lack of Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch - Sensor Indicates Lean - Bank No. 1
P1132 Lack of Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch - Sensor Indicates Rich - Bank No. 1
P1135 Ignition Switch Signal Missing or Improper
P1137 Lack of Downstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch - Sensor Indicates Lean - Bank No. 1
P1138 Lack of Downstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch - Sensor Indicates Rich - Bank No. 1
P1150 Lack of Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch - Adaptive Fuel Limit - Bank No. 2
P1151 Lack of Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch - Sensor Indicates Lean - Bank No. 2
P1152 Lack of Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch - Sensor Indicates Rich - Bank No. 2
P1157 Lack of Downstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch - Sensor Indicates Lean - Bank No. 2
P1158 Lack of Downstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch - Sensor Indicates Rich - Bank No. 2
P1220 Series Throttle Control fault
P1224 Throttle Position Sensor B out of Self-Test Range
P1230 Open Power to Fuel Pump circuit
P1231 High Speed Fuel Pump Relay activated
P1232 Low Speed Fuel Pump Primary circuit failure
P1233 Fuel Pump Driver Module off-line
P1234 Fuel Pump Driver Module off-line
P1235 Fuel Pump Control out of range
P1236 Fuel Pump Control out of range
P1237 Fuel Pump Secondary circuit fault
P1238 Fuel Pump Secondary circuit fault
P1250 Lack of Power to FPRC Solenoid
P1260 Theft Detected - Engine Disabled
P1270 Engine RPM or Vehicle Speed Limiter Reached
P1288 Cylinder Head Temperature Sensor out of Self-Test Range
P1289 Cylinder Head Temperature Sensor Signal Greater Than Self-Test Range
P1290 Cylinder Head Temperature Sensor Signal Less Than Self-Test Range
P1299 Cylinder Head Temperature Sensor Detected Engine Overheating Condition
P1309 Misfire Detection Monitor not enabled
P1351 Ignition Diagnostic Monitor circuit Input fault
P1352 Ignition Coil A - Primary circuit fault
P1353 Ignition Coil B - Primary circuit fault
P1354 Ignition Coil C - Primary circuit fault
P1355 Ignition Coil D - Primary circuit fault
P1356 Loss of Ignition Diagnostic Module Input to PCM
P1358 Ignition Diagnostic Monitor Signal out of Self-Test Range
P1359 Spark Output circuit fault
P1364 Ignition Coil Primary circuit fault
P1380 VCT Solenoid Valve circuit Short or Open
P1381 Cam Timing Advance is excessive
P1383 Cam Timing Advance is excessive
P1390 Octane Adjust out of Self-Test Range
P1400 Differential Pressure Feedback Electronic Sensor circuit Low Voltage
P1401 Differential Pressure Feedback Electronic Sensor circuit High Voltage
P1403 Differential Pressure Feedback Electronic Sensor Hoses Reversed
P1405 Differential Pressure Feedback Electronic Sensor circuit Upstream Hose
P1406 Differential Pressure Feedback Electronic Sensor circuit Downstream Hose
P1407 EGR No Flow Detected
P1408 EGR Flow out of Self-Test Range
P1409? EGR Vacuum Regulator circuit malfunction
P1409? Electronic Vacuum Regulator Control circuit fault
P1410 EGR Barometric Pressure Sensor VREF Voltage
P1411 Secondary Air is not being diverted
P1413 Secondary Air Injection System Monitor circuit Low Voltage
P1414 Secondary Air Injection System Monitor circuit High Voltage
P1442 Secondary Air Injection System Monitor circuit High Voltage
P1443 Evaporative Emission Control System - Vacuum System - Purge Control Solenoid or Purge Control Valve fault
P1444 Purge Flow Sensor circuit Input Low
P1445 Purge Flow Sensor circuit Input High
P1450 Inability of Evaporative Emission Control System to Bleed Fuel Tank
P1451 EVAP Control System Canister Vent Solenoid Circuit Malfunction
P1452 Inability of Evaporative Emission Control System to Bleed Fuel Tank
P1455 Substantial Leak or Blockage in Evaporative Emission Control System
P1460 Wide Open Throttle Air Conditioning Cutoff circuit malfunction
P1461 Air Conditioning Pressure Sensor circuit Low Input
P1462 Air Conditioning Pressure Sensor circuit high Input
P1463 Air Conditioning Pressure Sensor Insufficient Pressure change
P1464 ACCS to PCM High During Self-Test
P1469 Low Air Conditioning Cycling Period
P1473 Fan Secondary High with Fans Off
P1474 Low Fan Control Primary circuit
P1479 High Fan Control Primary circuit
P1480 Fan Secondary Low with Low Fans On
P1481 Fan Secondary Low with High Fans On
P1483 Power to Cooling Fan Exceeded Normal Draw
P1484 Variable Load Control Module Pin 1 Open
P1500 Vehicle Speed Sensor Intermittent
P1501 Programmable Speedometer & Odometer Module/Vehicle Speed Sensor Intermittent circuit-failure
P1502 Invalid or Missing Vehicle Speed Message or Brake Data
P1504 Intake Air Control circuit malfunction
P1505 Idle Air Control System at Adaptive Clip
P1506 Idle Air Control Over Speed Error
P1507 Idle Air Control Under Speed Error
P1512 Intake Manifold Runner Control Stuck Closed
P1513 Intake Manifold Runner Control Stuck Closed
P1516 Intake Manifold Runner Control Input Error
P1517 Intake Manifold Runner Control Input Error
P1518 Intake Manifold Runner Control fault - Stuck Open
P1519? Intake Manifold Runner Control Stuck Open
P1520? Intake Manifold Runner Control circuit fault
P1519? Intake Manifold Runner Control fault - Stuck Closed
P1520? Intake Manifold Runner Control fault
P1530 Open or Short to A/C Compressor Clutch circuit
P1537 Intake Manifold Runner Control Stuck Open
P1538 Intake Manifold Runner Control Stuck Open
P1539 Power to A/C Compressor Clutch circuit Exceeded Normal Current Draw
P1549 Intake Manifold Temperature Valve Vacuum Actuator Connection
P1550 Power Steering Pressure Sensor out of Self-Test Range
P1605 PCM Keep Alive Memory Test Error
P1625 Voltage to Vehicle Load Control Module Fan circuit not detected
P1626 Voltage to Vehicle Load Control Module circuit not detected
P1650 Power Steering Pressure Switch out of Self-Test Range
P1651 Power Steering Pressure Switch Input fault
P1700 Transmission system problem

06xlt

does anyone have or know what the interlocks are for shifting in and out of 4x4 low range?? mine is an 06 with a 5 speed it seems like it takes a long time when engaging or disengaging low range

rangerman1998

ya i have that problem it seems like it don't want to kick into 4 low and i dont get a light on the cluster telling me its in 4 wd low i only get the light if its in 4 wd don't make any sense

06xlt

ok so i take it you dont know what the interlocks are

2002ranger2

I have a 2002 Ranger with a check engine warning light. The code is P1537, a little research proved the code to be "Intake Manifold Runner Control Stuck Open." Does anyone have knowledge or experience with this fault and how to correct it?

06xlt

hey my 06 xlt when shifting out of 4low is slower than the second comming of christ,,,, but it does show the 4x4 and low rang lights on the dash ,,, for the inter lock look in your owners manuel(thats where i found mine ) but i think they are foot brake on(not park brake) speedo reading 0 and clutch disengaged then wait

roofranger

If you have the small 4 cyl engine, I had the same problem. Check the vacuum hose that runs to the control valve on the intake manifold at the fire wall on the drivers side. Mine was cracked and leaking. The port at the intake was also clogged and was cleaned out with carb cleaner. If you have a hand pump vacuum tester you can supply vacuum to the control to make sure the diaphragm is intact and the port is not clogged.

This control restricts intake flow at engine rpm less than 3000 to enhance low end torque. When it is stuck open the butterfly is open all the time and your low end torque is less, but your gas milage is better (my experience). It is not hard to remove the intake and clean it all out around the butterfly to make sure it is not so dirty as to be sticking.

4427

fuel pump runs all the time with koeo

bolivar

Bad fuel pump relay?

Bad ignition switch?

Bad wiring for ignition switch?

johnster1

What is the trouble code for no trouble codes?

'02 Ford Ranger has check engine light on, but the OBD code reader which I bought indicates no power in the diagnostic connector under the steering wheel. I checked this with two known working code readers, and got same results.

Does anyone have any experience with a bad OBD module, and if so, how do you test it.

The truck runs fine. I did take a hit in the tailgate a while back, but cannot say the light came on at that time.

I am guessing a problem in the harness, or what the harness hooks to. Any ideas?

bald408

say bank 1 is lean and will not pass air test.what should i do first.

909bob

Just replaced a clutch in a 91 Ford Ranger, and now its idling low and doesn't want to stay running. Did a test on it and it said code 14. Does anyone know what this means or how to fix my problem?

olliemag

I have a 2001 Ranger Edge, 73000 miles, 3.0 Liter, 5 sp, that does not display any codes yet runs rough at idle and will has very little torque, even mildly fish bites during acceleration. Even at hwy speeds, I have to floor the gas to keep it from loosing speed on small hills. The Cats have just been replaced, they were melted, I have driven it with a computer connected, the timing is a little low but at one point the voltages on all three O2 sensors briefly went to zero volts while the truck was running. I have been to the dealer three times and they are like baby sitting pre-schoolers, no help. I pulled a 1200 lb trailer not long ago and the truck would barely pull the thing in 2nd gear, I had to floor it to get it to accelerate at all. Not one here knows what else to do. Is there any help out there?

yesibrokeit

After you repair the cracked vacuum hose, do I need to disconnect my battery to disengage the check engine light, or will it automatically turn off after being driven for a couple miles??? ... My truck needs some TLC!!!

legaltutor

I have 95 Ranger 6 cylinder that upon starting gives 5 beeps 5 times and will repeat if vehicle is driven more than 50 miles at a time on a 50 mile or so regular basis

soulja241

Does any one know how to read test codes through the EEC test plug. I'm using a volt ohm meter. Do i read a particular voltage and get the code from that? The problem I'm having is the check engine light is coming on and the engine runs rough when this happens. Then the light goes off and the truck runs fine. I changed the fuel filter and have plenty of fuel pressure at the fuel rail. If I'm about checking the codes the wrong way let me know. I went to Auto zone and they only check 96 and up. My truck is a 92

06xlt

I have 06 XLT 4x4 with 5 speed
I am looking to change my front bumper to add a winch and also use to tow behind the motor home If you have any good suggestions for one please let me know I am looking for one all ready built . The companies in the off road mags dont seem to offer much from what I've seen Thanks for your help

a70roadster

Don't know what the Ford Owners Manual says about what types of coolant to use or do not use in your cooling system but my MAZDA manual does. I guess the same warnings could apply to the RANGER. The coolant had never been changed in my engine so it was the original installed when I bought the truck NEW. The coolant was was topped off twice in its lifetime. MAZDA didn't do me any favors so I ate the cost of another engine. MAZDA gave me a couple hundred bucks in SERVICE CHITS.

A WORD TO THE WISE. DOUBLE CHECK YOUR MANUAL AND DO NOT MIX ANTIFREEZE if your running a 2300.

jtay

I have an 05 ranger what does it mean when the overdrive off light blinks

bolivar

Have you looked in your manual?

It probably means it will not shift into overdrive because of some error the computer has detected. Probably needs 'the codes' pulled to find specifically what is wrong.

rangerman1998

that means that ur overdrive is experiencing a problem either its not locking in or its gone all together u don't really need over drive its just a gas saver so if u need it redone just have then disable it and run the 4 gears that the ranger has already i have noticed that the ford ranger transmissions are really touchy they buck sometimes and if u have it out of over drive it does it even worse i don't know if thats a problem with myn or just that overdrive makes it smoother.

trento

I have a 99 ranger that will not idle. Check engine light is on so I plugged into the computer. Got 3 codes back all of which said the 3 oxygen sensors are bad. I would guess it is highly unlikely that all 3 sensors would go bad. Is this possible? Is there something else that could happen that would cause this such as a bad relay?

vicaguilar

I have a '97 4 cyl Ranger. I live in Az and I cannot pass emissions without my check engine light coming on at start up. I had to replace EGR valve already to clear codes, which it did but my check engine light has never been on. I just bought truck 6 months ago and never realized it was not coming on. How do I replace bulb or fuse if this is the propblem. it you don't think that is the problem what do you think it is? Thanks, Vic.

bolivar

Yes, there are other thing rather than bad O2 sensor/s that could set the check engine code.

Anything that makes the engine run excessively lean or rich might set the code. Lean might be a vacuum leak (hose or intake gasket or even main air intake around the mass air sensor), or for rich could be leaking injectors that leek fuel into a cylinder when it should be shut off.

bolivar

I don't understand. Are you saying the check engine light does not come on when initially starting the engine, during the time when all lights 'light up' as a test of the light?

Or, are you saying your check engine light is on all the time?

vicaguilar

The check engine light never comes on.

bolivar

Well, my bet is that some time in the cars past it had a check engine light set and the owner wanted to sell it. So, he got to the light and removed the bulb.....

Bulbs like this seldom burn out. If 'failed' the failure is in the main auto 'computer' that monitor the sensors and turns this light on.

vicaguilar

The computer did not catch the "failure" as the vehicle passed as far as the codes are concerned. My vehicle failed emissions because my Check engine light does not come on at all. If the buld has been removed or disconnected what do I have to do to replace it?
On a different subject but same truck, When I try to put bright lights (high beam)on, headlights turn completely off. Headlights (low beam) work otherwise. Any ideas? Thanks for your help, Vic.

bolivar

You've got to access the instrument panel area and check on the bulb. I don't know exactly how to tear into this. If you said in any of your post, I don't even remember what year, etc this is. For many autos, you pry off the trim around the instrument panel, then remove screws while will allow the panel to be pulled out, then the bulbs can be assessed.

Headlight problem - could be various things. Both high beams burned out. Ground problem for the high beams. The 'multi-function' switch is bad. This is the switch on the end of the stalk which is used for turn signals, dim light, etc - its inside the steering column. A bad switch has a higher probability of being the problem.

If you really, really want to know how to fix stuff like this, you need to buy the factory service manuals for your vehicle. These are sold at www.helminc.com which is the publisher for most auto manuals. They are expensive. But the one you find at the auto parts house, etc for $16 are, for most repairs, almost useless.