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Mazda 626 Troubles



  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,587
    Well okay if your temp gauge is jumping around, that is more likely a thermostat issue. I thought it was blowing cool air with a steady reading in the "normal" zone, which would be more indicative of a bad heater valve or air deflector servo or cable.

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  • Today, I happened to look under my 1994 Mazda 626 and saw a wire hanging down in front of the rear wheel on the passenger side. Upon inspection, I found it to be small ground strap that was broken, with one end still bolted to the body of the car. I tried to locate where the other end was attached, but could not find it. Does anybody out there know what this ground strap is supposed to be hooked to???

  • I have had two overflow tank replacements on my 2000 LXV6 model. I believe they are just cheaply made. Their was a design modification as the replacement have not worked. The second replacement was immediately following my 60,000 mile service when I had timing belt and water pump replaced. I noticed some of the coolant laying in an area and was told that it was just a burp in the coolant system and some coolant "just escaped from the overflow". It was a slow leak and shortly thereafter my temperature gauge shot up. You would think that they could design a once piece unit.
  • I love this car. Best drive ever, not the most comfy seats though. Anyhoo, after many years of loving this car I got another and made the 626 my gas-friendly car to take out when I don't need to lug crap in my SUV. For the past 6 months, it's been tempermental when starting. Some days it just won't. Others, it will fuss and trying again later it will give in and drive like normal.

    My father says it has something to do with damp weather but heck, I need the car no matter what the weather is like.

    Yesterday it started for a second and shut off. It makes the "starting" noises but just doesn't fire up completely. Does that sound like sparky issues?
  • I have a great looking black 94' 626. Its a wonderful car except a few niggling problems and the check engine light that used to come on and off. Well the last couple of days the thing that I was dreading about happened. My transmission or its electrical circuitry has developed problems. The car reverses fine but in drive, it just revs high and starts with a big jerk. Then soon after the 'HOLD' light starts blinking and the car refuses to move. Does this mean that my transmission is 'kaput' or is it just an uncooperative sensor??
    Could someone please shed some light? I love this car but lately its grown too temperamental for me. :cry:
    Thanking you in advance.
  • This is great ! I could have written this myself. I have a 99 Mazda 626 ES V6 - at about 65,000 miles my water pump went out - a month later all the coolant was on the grount - turns out it was the reservoir tank. I had had a replacement of the reservoir tank at about 20,000 miles also - (same problem ) car got hot and all coolant squirted out of a pin hole in tank.
  • Sounds like a plan, but I have had the A/C off and received the same problems. I will check into your suggestion. I do appreciate it.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    Same here. First one was leaking at approximately 40K miles and was replaced under warranty. The second one started leaking slowly around 110K miles. Cost me about $ 70 to replace, just the cost of the part.

    They are probably cheaply made. The problem with a leaky coolant overflow bottle in a V6 is that the A/C compressor clutch wiring harness connector is directly under the bottle and leaking coolant can get into the connector and cause all kinds of intermittent A/C problems. I packed the connector with dielecric grease to help prevent this.
  • Can anyone help. I have a Mazda 626 coupe, E reg not quite sure what year, and the indicators and hazards have gone off. I have been told that it needs a new relay. But where is it? Trying to get a manual has proved near impossible for the age. It's not a fuse! Have tried that :cry:
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    I think that the flasher unit is your problem. This is the device that makes the clicking noise when the turn signals or hazards are on. Usually these are located under the dash on the driver's side.
  • First of all is it a 4 or 6 . The tranny in the 4 cylinder is a FORD CD4E and the electronics are prolly EEC_IV. Lots of things can make it go nuts and tranny be fine. Be more explicit I have to same car
  • I have a 1995 Mazda 626 4 cyc. It has 130,000 miles and I was also told by a mechanic back when the car had 70,000 miles on it that I shouldn't change the tranny fluid either. His rational for the advise was that if the trans had a crack or leak or some other defect that the "old" trans fluid acts as glue or a filler and plugs the "leaks" and changing the fluid after not doing so "regularly" would do more harm than good. We bought the car with 45K miles and thought that we would take a chance and change the fluid anyway. Honestly, that's the last time we changed the trans fluid.
  • Dont worry its just how the mazda's run
  • I have a 1995 Mazda 626 with close to the same problems you are having. Mine use to surge for no reason on the highways and a few times in town for no apparent reason. I had it checked four times by Mazda under warranty back in 1996. They could find no problem, they must have thought i was crazy. It happened again and for the fifth time i brought it back to Mazda, i told them to have a mehanic take it for a long ride on the highway and after 45 minutes the same thing happended to him. He stated it was a problem with the inhibiter, no idea what that is. They ordered the part, put it in two days later and i have never had the problem again. :)
  • Could you search your records and maybe find out the part number. Or call the dealership and find out part name or number. It would be helpfull to me and many others in this forum.
    I keep all my auto records, hopefully you do too.
    Thanks In Advance
    PGP :)
  • i have a 91 mazda 626 that will only run with the airflow meter proped open and the idle speed jacked up it shoots fire out of the exaust when it heats up any help on it would be appreciated
  • 1990 MX6/automatic trans/75k miles. Car stalls in drive when slowing to stop. No codes detected when connected to computer. A mechanic suggested checking/replacing the idler or something like that. Any suggestions on the name of this part. Thanks.
  • chrbchrb Posts: 4
    Hello everyone,
    I've been following advice posted by others on this board and I'm running out of options. My '99 626 started to misfire a few days ago. It's done this in the past, but replacing the plugs solved it then. The latest set has been in for about 2 months and was replaced at the same time as the fuel filter. The problem only happens when accelerating. The code reads Cyl 1 misfire, but it feels more like all cylinders misfire at the same time when this happens. I cleaned the MAF earlier tonight. It was pretty clean and did not solve the problem. I'll replace the year old plug wires tomorrow but doubt if that will fix it. Any other suggestions for what seems to be a common problem.
    Kind thanks
    Chr B.
  • chrbchrb Posts: 4
    I replaced those spark plug wires today, and that fixed the problem. Unbelievable! I never thought that wires could deteriorate to such an extend in a year or two and that it could have such an impact on the engine. Well, hopefully this may help someone else...
    Chr B.
  • I recently aquired the 92 626. #1 Plug was blown apart, compression test showed about 150 PSI in #1. #2 had 0 PSI. So i figured it was a head problem. Took off and re-worked head, replaced and still had about 150 PSI on #1 and only about 60 PSI on #2. My son has been driving the car for a little while, just a back and forth to school car. Last night "boom" blew #1 plug apart again and no compreesion on #2. I am trying to figure are these problems related, or are the rings bad in #2 and no relation to the unusually high compression in #1? Is the head bad, maybe cracked somewhere that I missed? Incidentally #3 and 4 are what I would consider normal at about 100PSI. I have never seen a plug blow out like this before.

    Pls advise, Thanks,
  • bohookbohook Posts: 2
    I have a 1999 Mazda 626lx with automatic trans. Upon returning to my car I started the engine and put the car in reverse but the engine just revs. I can select drive, and reverse but I can't feel the trans engaging. The shift selecter seemed a bit loose so I checked the linkage cable in the interior and it moves with the selecter . I'm unsure how to identify the same cable under the hood. Am I on the right track? Any suggestions?
  • 626er626er Posts: 1
    Good bet that the MAF is bad if you are having to prop it open and allowing a very rich mixture. Also, be sure to check the throttle body hose for cracks. My 90 626 ran lousy. Never could find the problem. Replaced the MAF with one from salvage yard (recommend go to reputable yard) but still ran rough. Finally pulled the hose and discovered large crack in bottom of hose. Couldn't see or detect it until I took it completely off. Replaced hose (again from salvage yard) and engine perked right up. Be sure to disconnect the batttery before you remove the MAF and take care to remove the MAF connector clip carefully. Total cost: MAF $55, hose $10, running smoothly - priceless!
  • Proud owner of 1990 626 LX. V-6 w/175,000 miles.
    A/T with the economy/power mode select.
    Have had a problem which has gradually gotten worse.
    From a stop, with light to standard acceleration, the 1 to 2 shift is accompanied by a huge BANG. It is like a SAM missile hits the left front of the car. Any possible "Hail Mary" fixes i.e.; band adjustment, governor replacement, sensor failure? Or is this the sign the Old Faithful is now swirling around the drain?
    Am from old school, where you don't change fluid after 100,000 miles. So I'm a little learry of pulling the pan unless it gives up completely. The Dr's oath, first do no harm. Thanks!
    ps: does this have a lock-up tourque converter? If so, does it have it's own wiring harness?
  • 2 Fridays ago, car shut off while coming to a stop. Started after a few cranks. A couple miles later started running ruff slowing down to a light, I put it in nuetral and it stopped spuddering put it back into drive-it spuddered 2x then that was it. I also added dry gas... the problem stopped. The following Thursday driving down the highway the car shut off and I had it towed. My mechanic replaced the distributor cause he said there was no spark. The car started, I went in the shop to pay my mechanic and I came out to the car and it shut off again. My mechanic ordered a manual to find out the electric system, he thinks the problem is before the distributor. HELP!
  • I am having this same problem. Did you get it fixed? If so, how much approximately. My engine check light has been on for over a week now.
    Thanks so much for the help.
  • What year and model is your car? ATX or Manual? Some of us have the books but for which car.
    PGP :)
  • 626 2.5 auto...
    The car shuts off when I accelerate over 2750 rpms...going up hill or over 55. I have put on 2 used distributors. engine computer, new fuel filter, changed air intake hose (from air filter to engine) and it is still doing it. Check engine light does not come on.
    I found out there are 2 types of distributors a small cam (0.4??) and a large cam(0.5??)could my mechanic put in the wrong size? is that possible?
    I took it to the Mazda dealer and they say I need a MAZDA distributor? My mechanic disagrees...
  • I have a 4 cy. 1998 626 LX-manual tranny. We keep having a problem with the check engine light and a slight surge in the engine when it is idling. The air idle control valve has been cleaned, as has the throttle body. We have replaced the knock sensor, and an air sensor. Does anyone have an idea what could be causing the check engine light. Our mechanic is stumped
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Which diagnostic trouble code numbers were retrieved?
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