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Mazda 626 Troubles



  • According to my manual there are 9 different possibilities for general loss of power. Prolly the reason mechanic is stumped.`But there should be a pecking order to what should be diagnosed. Have you joined ALLDATA? Maybe you could direct question to Alcan he seems to know a lot about Mazdas if you can get his attention or Email him.
    Good Luck
    PGP :)
  • I have a 1997 mazda 626, 5 speed. I got into it the other day and noticed that my car was staying reved at about 2000 rpms even with the clutch in, and the charge (battery) light came on, and on top of that my heat stopped working (i know, its a handful). I just put a new battery in it, but am a little stupped on what this problem could be with all the symptoms...if anyone has any suggestions it would be helpful

  • Yeah ok I have a 92 Mazda 626 Automatic..but My Charge light came on aswell and my heat stopped working...what it was with mine was the Alternator Belt needed to be re attached (ok a new had to be put on)..But newayz..I didn't know that until the car died 45 minutes from my house b/c the battery had been drained...thought it was strange b/c I had just gotten the car and Had just put in a brand spankin new battery and it died...found out earlier in the day when i was test running it making sure it ran..the alternator belt snapped and fell off..look for the alternator and see if it had a belt attached..If it does take it to Advanced Auto Parts or Autozone and get them to check your alternator

    Tom :)
  • I have been having problem with my Mazda 626 1.8 LXi 1997 (manual) for last 3 weeks. Car has done 63000 and was very reliable for last 5 years.
    I have seen few mechanics, including Mazda service. Mazda suggested to change catalytic converter, which I did, but the problem is still there. I was trying to speak to the technician who diagnosed the problem, but they said that I have to come again for diagnoses and I would be charged again (£50)...
    The symptoms of the problem are:
    - Car loosing power under load, especially on higher revs and when it goes up a hill. The problem is worse when the engine is cold
    - When the car is stationary, pressing on accelerator the engine works smoothly even over 4000 rpm. Car starts OK when hot or cold
    - Car has stopped few times going up a hill with cold engine. After about 20 seconds the car would start and run like before (going hardly up the hill)
    - On motorway can go up to 75 miles/hour

    Parts that have been changed:
    - spark plugs
    - air filter
    - engine filter
    - Catalytic converter

    Mazda garage suggested changing catalytic converter, silencer and pre-silencer. After changing converter there were not any improvements, so I did not bothered with the rest.
    I would be grateful if someone can help.
  • I have a 1997 mazda 626. It had a complete engine overhaul 2 years ago. After every oil change (roughly 4 weeks) oil color starts to turn black and eventually burn rapidly. I have to add 1 qrt every 2 weeks. The problem had even before the engine overhaul. Any expert suggestion would be really appreciated.
  • pdanapdana Posts: 19
    I was wondering if anybody knows anything about the 1992 mazda 626, with four cylinder and automatic trans? I need something to get around town in. I saw this one and it says it only has 80k miles on it and that it runs good. I've seen where a lot of these cars seem to have transmission problems, was this also the case for the '92? Thanks for any info.
  • hi bolts,

    I have the same car as yours and is dead since 4 months.the engine is not going on, at mazda they said it is the distributor, here (lebanon)I could not find the part,even used or new.I waited 4 months to bring from outside the country and it did not work.
    I finally saw your posts.
    PLEASE PLEASE help me. what is the crank sensor, where does it fit? etc...Because I exchanged the complete distributor with all what's inside and the engine still doesn't start.(No sparks from the plugs)
    I do really appreciate if you can help.
  • Hello. First time poster wondering if anyone could give me some advice. Got into my 93,626, 2.5L, Manual yesterday and turned on the ignition, and when the car started a strange beeping noise started coming from the dashboard with none of the dummy lights accompanying it. Turned the car off and on again and there was no beeping the second time. I'm really scared to drive the car because I Know I need to check my timing belts, and I don't need another blown engine. I'm a 19 yr old female and I need to use my car this week or I'm gonna miss an important photo shoot.
    Please Help
  • Hi, usually if the key is in the ignition switch and the door is open you should hear a beeping noise, but in your case you said that when you turned off then on no more beeping, I think this can be the seat belt reminder.
  • I have 1990 Mazda 626 GLX, 4cyl, 12 valve, 2.0 l, 5 spd manual trans. I recently changed the head with a 1989, but now it keeps going out of time, does anyone know how many teeth are on the '89 camshaft sprocket versus the '90 as I think this may be the problem. :confuse:
  • if your timing belt should break, it wont harm the engine. You have a "non-interference" engine in that car. You would have to tow it to a garage and replace the belt, but no harm to valves or pistons...
  • I need to find a after market exhaust manifold for my 2001 MAxda 626 4-litre...Can anyone help?
  • Hello:

    Can anyone help me with this question, please? I'm tired of asking my mechanics what’s the problem with my car and getting nowhere for they’re always giving me the run around and fix something other than the one I want to be fixed (female situation I guess…)
    Every time I start the car... first thing in the morning or after a few hours there’s a squealing sound. I believe it’s a belt but ‘m not sure which one. Can anyone help me with this?

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,855
    Sounds like a common slipping belt symptom, or a bad bearing in the idler pulley upon which the belt revolves. I'd replace the offending belt and tighten it properly and/or inspect the idler pulley for excessive wear and wobble.

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  • tdreotdreo Posts: 17
    Here's the story:
    I bought my 4th Mazda, a 2001 626 (4cyl, auto) and about a year later my 5th, a 2002 626 (4cyl, auto). At the time, I was under the impression that the transmission problems were solved, boy was I dumb for believing that.
    The 2001 tranny died at 22,000 miles, under warranty thank God.
    The dealer claimed "we've never seen a 2001 go bad"
    The 2002 died last week. The car was 3 years old (almost to the day) with 60,000 miles on it. After much complaining and dealing, Mazda went from "you're on your own" to being so thankful that I have bought 5 cars from them they would cover half of the cost (what a treat!). What a ungrateful, arrogrant company. To make the story a little shorter, it cost me $2000 for my "half". I flat-out told them that this 5th Mazda would be my last if they did not cover the repair but they didn't seem to care. Bye-bye Mazda, I guess 5 isn't enough. I'd lay odds Mazda will be the next GM in a few years.
  • Sometimes my Mazda 626 (2002, 6 cyl.) starts slowly from a stop - almost seems to lose its breath when I press on the accelerator. It feels like there's an air bubble in the gas line or it's about to stall or something. (Not a mechanic, sorry.) Problem is worse when engine is cold. Sometimes this is almost dangerous, like when I need to move a little faster to catch a space from a turn, into traffic. I wind up having to wait for big long spaces because the car literally moves in slow motion for about 3-5 seconds. Has anyone seen this in their Mazda or know what the problem is / how to fix it? :confuse: Thanks.
  • thank you Mr_Shiftright. that's exactly what was wrong. hmmm i like this site :) i should visit it often.
  • tdreotdreo Posts: 17
    Mine (2002, 4 cyl)does the same thing.
    I've changed the plugs, wires and the ignition coil with no change. My next guess is a bad injector or fuel pump.
    Let me know if you find anything on yours.

  • k_mank_man Posts: 1
    My 98' 626 4cyl, 5 speed, does that exact same thing. It always seem to hesitate when accelerating, and then all of a sudden take off as I let off the gas (should work the other way around). Lately it rattles as it accelerates, as if it is out of breath. I changed, sparkplags (then for a little while it went better), gas pump, etc..nothing really helps. Now, the stupid thing even drops RPM to about 450...when idling and when the engine is warm. I keep thinking it will die on me any minute. This car never seemed to be doing well. I had an RX7 before and had no problems, yet when I buy this dumb sedan it never runs right,
    I bought it with 49000 miles, but I never liked the way it ran...

    Please help if you have any thought on this.

  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 22,288
    someone asked not too long ago about the 4-cyl tranny in a '92 626. I'm curious about the same year. What year 4-cyl autos should be avoided?


    '17 F150 Crew 2.7; '67 Coronet R/T; '14 Town&Country Limited; '09 LR2 HSE. 44-car history and counting!

  • Does anyone know where the Cam sensor is located? My CEL came on and I took it to Autozone for the free diagnostic. The error shows a "Bank 1 cam sensor malfunction". Any help with this would be greatly appreciated.
  • I hope someone can help me with this. I am about to sell my 96 Mazda 626, 4 cylinder. Hasn't been a terrible car, but enough small problems starting popping up that I chose to buy a new car instead of fixing the 'ol 626. I bought a new Mazda6 s Wagon with the 6speed ATX. Anwyay....on the old 626, I can no longer get the key into the Drivers side door lock. Is there anyway I could fix this myself?? I am selling the car tomorrow, and would like to fix this for them. Any suggestions??
  • I have a 2000 (4 cyl auto.) It does the same thing. The plugs and wires were changed about six weeks ago. But doesn't seem to help this problem.

    I now have a check engine light that goes on when accelerating at approx. 45-50 mph. It eventually goes away. When this happens, it sounds like it is missing....

    Have any ideas?
  • What did you find was the final solution?
    We are having the same problem with a 2002, 626 with only 13,000 miles on it.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    My 1999 ES V6 5 speed has the cam sensor located inside the rear valve cover, close to a cam sprocket. 1999 626 V6 does not have a distributor though.
  • Hi Guys,
    I just got to Greece and brought the Bosch MAF with me. When mechanic drew codes, no code for MAF showed , just a 181 which is oxygen sensor. Having previously pulled both 159 MAf and 181 Os sensor I had him install the MAF against his judgement. I then cleared the codes and told him I would bring O2 sensor next trip.
    I pulled out of the shop and CEL came on one time ONLY.I REPEAT ONE TIME ONLY! I drove car all around at all speeds up to 85 MPH and it never came back on again.
    My impression is the PCM might have been receiving errors from both, but changing MAF ONLY seems to have rebooted the PCM and for now at least car drives fine. I will be going up to mountainous regions in a few weeks and that will be the final test.
    AT least to me, that shows how one bad sensor can influence another sensor and make it be out of range.
    I will advise after mountain test.
    Thx and I hope this helps someone else
    P.S. People can do a search to find the entire saga if interested :)
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    EUREKA!!!!!!!! LOL

    Keep up posted.
  • Well its me again.After fixing check engine light (I HOPE) now onto the clunking sound in the front end. I changed the CV joints a while ago and its not them. The mechanic here says its the bearings and strut plate that need to be replaced.I do not have much faith in Greek mechanics and looking through my Haynes manual, I do not really see any reference to this as a possible cause.
    Any advice Alcan or Mr Shiftright or any other knowledgeable person? Does this seem right . Other Mazda place thought it might be stabilizer links, and to wait till it gets worse to know definitely. Who to believe and how to test/find out ? If in fact, it is strut plate and bearings , will waiting cause any more serious damage .
    Just a clunk/clink sound when turning wheel at rest like the CV joints which are now perfect.
    Thanks again
    Peter :)
  • I was also having clunking in the front of my '01 626 ES, but it went away after i had the tires replaced. I have no idea why it happened, but i just thought i'd throw it out there. It doesn't really seem to make sense, but it worked for me.

    Also, i was just wondering if anyone else has had any problems with their Bose CD player. When i bought the car, there was a CD stuck in the player (Black Eye'd Peas, yuck). The CD plays fine, but it won't come out. I was thinking it might be something as simple as a broken lever somewhere, but i've never fiddled with a car stereo before. It hasn't really effected me, as I use an mp3 player with a fm transmitter, but it would be nice to be able to use the CD player without having to take it to a mechanic.
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