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Mazda 626 Troubles



  • slickdogslickdog Posts: 225
    Did you get that rear-end problem corrected yet? I used to have a '00 LX-V6 and it had the rear sway bar links and bushings replaced twice in two years under warranty. The symptom was a clunking sound heard from the trunk area when going over bumps/holes. I came across other owners back then with the same problem, so I think there must have been some design or manufacturing issues with those components.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,909
    No, will do it soon--but if there was a recall or TSB for the problem that would help. I am pretty sure there was no recall for it. Does Mazda have a public site that publishes TSBs?
  • skibry1skibry1 Posts: 174
    Back in OughtOne or Two there was a TSB for thisailment.
    No proven remedy...just a heads up for mechanics I guess. One of the problems was the malady was intermittent.The shop could never replicate the noise to address a solution. Ours sounds like a loose body panel and IS periodic!?!
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    Did you say rear sway bar links too? i replaced the rear bar bushings several years ago, but now I am getting some of this rear clunk when going over bumps. Will the new rear sway bar links cure the problem?
  • mazda626atxmazda626atx Posts: 227
    140k Sounds like you are doing fairly well. Does the creaking noise happen when you are stationary or moving very slowly and making a right turn? or at normal speeds. If so it could be the top strut bearing.I replaced both of mine. Check them by having car in park , and have someone turn wheel left to right while you hold your hand on the spring. You feel it tensioning and releasing. If so then its the bearing but maybe changing entire upper strut mount would be advisable. In my case at 55K i only had to replace the bearing . 120K is a whole different ball game IMHO
    I also replaced half axles on my 94 626 and bought OEM remanufactured from mazda. They were reman by ARI and you could prolly get them $30-40 cheaper online or somewhere else. I would suggest you try to find ARI because thats who MAZDA uses to reman theirs.
    Good Luck
  • slickdogslickdog Posts: 225
    Yes, sway bar links too. Seems to me that replacing just the bushings would be an adequate solution for that sort of problem but the dealer replaced the links and bushings both times. I remember asking the service manager why on one of those trips, and I believe he told me that since the bushings were shot that there was damage to the links as well. Not sure how possible that is, since I never had the rear suspension apart in my garage, but the work was performed under warranty both times (no $$$ out of my pocket) so I didn't argue with the guy.

    Your bushings could be bad again too, the first set on my car failed after probably 2 years, then the second set within another year.
  • i own a 1997 626 and it had rough idling for a while then one day started getting worse. finally now every time its in idle it completely shuts off and no one can tell me what the pronblem is because they say its enternal and not worth it. do you have any ideas or suggestions
  • betcha1betcha1 Posts: 1
    My 99 Mazda 626 has started to have a very loud and rough idle when I start it up and also when I accelerate. Any ideas as to what could be causing the problem?
    The car has about 99,000 miles. About 10,000 miles ago, the spark plugs and wires, PCV valve and fuel filter were replaced. And around 6,000 miles ago I had the idler pulley and belts replaced.
  • brandnewbrandnew Posts: 5
    someone posted at other place and replaced fuel filter, it was reported the code was cleared.

    today i replaced mine and drived about 10km and error code did not show up yet.
    the code means: bank A lean.
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    Some very VERY wide pictures were removed. Posting pictures is very welcomed here, but please understand that any picture wider than this text area distorts the whole page from that point forward and can't be accommodated.

    Just make sure the picture fits within the borders of the posting area if you want to display it within your post. If it does not, all you need to do is provide a link to it instead.

  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    When I replaced the rear sway bar bushings, the original ones looked in perfect hsape, no cracks, no tears. I did look at the links and do not see anything wrong. But I definitely get some clunking once in a while from the back. So I guess I order a set of links and replace them to be sure. I have front sway bar bushings too, but putting them in looks like a real chore as access to these is difficult - even on a high lift.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    The creaking noise only occurs when I make a quick right turn and low speed and load the left wheel. I think you are right - it proably is the top strut bearing. there is no noixe when traveling in a straght line.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,909
    I had a service tech from my local Mazda dealer drive my 2000 626 yesterday (asked for an appraisal), and he said he thought the creaking noise in back (which sounds like something rattling in the trunk when it goes over sharp bumps) is the strut tower(s). I will have them take a close look at the next oil change.

    P.S. I declined their none-too-generous offer.
  • skibry1skibry1 Posts: 174
    How many miles on your doubleought? Ours has 70K and
    the INTERMITTENT noise from trunk sounds more like a
    loose body panel. The only way they'll be able to inspect
    will be a disasemble.How much was that"n-t-g" offer?
    Our DoubleOught
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,909
    It has just over 85k now, bought it three months ago. The noise in its backend sounds a lot like a loose body panel--but I am pretty sure it's not.

    The n-t-g offer was $4000. I've already had one firm private party offer for $6400 (if I wanted to sell it, which I don't since my son has glommed onto it now), so no way I would take $4000. It just had the full 60k service at 84k and is in nearly like-new condition inside and out. So it's worth it to me to put a little money into fixing the rattle and see if it can get my son through college.
  • kburkeskburkes Posts: 1
    Hello all -- I have a 2001 626 LX with approx 86,000 miles. It has developed a sound in the rear end (shocks/struts/something else?) that sound like a "cuckoo" clock when I go over speed-bumps or bumpy roads in general.

    Any clue what this might be? And more important -- how serious / expensive this might be to fix?

    I am considering trading it in on a 2005 Mazda Tribute, 31,000 miles. Anyone have any experience with Tributes?

    Many Thanks!
  • vashtievashtie Posts: 10
    Light indicating some problem with electrical system is coming on and the book tells us we should see the dealer to determine the problem. We don't seem to have any problems with the car. It is not overheating, runs fine but we do know the clutch is going out since is hard to get into first gear. Appreciate any information you can share regarding potential problems causing the light to come on? Thanks
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    You need to have the code pulled to know what the light is on for. Auto Zone will do this for free. As far as the clutch is concerned, it may not be a bad clutch. If it is reluctant to go into gear, this means that the clutch is not fully releasing when the pedal is depressed. The primary culprit here is an internally leaking clutch master cylinder/slave cylinder, which need to be rebuilt/replaced. A clutch that is worn out will normally cause slipping, and it will engage only when the pedal is almost fully released. You can do a simple test to see if your clutch is bad. Place the car in fourth gear, depress the clutch and start the engine. Then abruptily release the clutch (no foot on the brake). If the engine stalls immediately, your clutch is still good, if not, the clutch is toast.
  • vashtievashtie Posts: 10
    Very much appreciate the advice! Will try out your recommendations.
  • mazda626atxmazda626atx Posts: 227
    HEY P100,
    Did you finally get that noise resolved? Was it what we thought?
  • I have a 99 Mazda 626 with 101k miles on it. I love my car and it runs like a tank. The check engine light has been on for 8 months and I have had three diagnostics and no one can figure out what is wrong but it does not run funny at all. My REAL problem is that I need struts. I don't think they have ever been replaced. I have 16 months until this car is paid off and I do not have $450 for the repair. What happens when you don't fix them. What if I just let them go like that? There is no noise at all but I hit hard. I am afraid of an accident or something but I would have to borrow the money from my friends or family to fix it!

    Help :confuse:
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    I just ordered a pair of rear swaybar links. Will install them next week when they come in. Hopefully, this will resolve the issue. It has not been that bad - mostly when the car is cold and it seems to be less pronounced now.

    Will let everybody know if I see any difference after I instlal the new links.

    Also, the creaking noise that seems to be coming from the left front strut upper mount, is not as pronounced. i may let that one go until I replace the struts, along with the upper mounts.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    I still have the original struts at 144K. I do not think that they are bad yet, but if I keep the car, I will probably replace them in the next year or so.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,909
    Has anyone had to replace the two front airbags on a '98-02 vintage 626 and if so how much did it cost? My son had an accident in my '00 626 yesterday and it was enough to blow both bags (DPS officer said they blow at 12 mph), but fortunately no one was hurt and my son said the damage to the car doesn't seem to be that bad (I haven't seen it yet, I was out of town). I am hoping the damage is not enough to total the car--it doesn't take much these days. :cry:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,870
    Weak struts might cause a loss of control in certain extreme situations, but probably the only thing you have eto worry about is damage to the car's suspension, like ball joints, tie rods, etc. I don't see why you can't find a deal for even cheap struts (like KYB or Gabriel) at one of the discount chains. They won't last too long but they will get you through your loan.

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  • lotsofemslotsofems Posts: 2
    Thanks for the help. Where can I find cheap struts. The cheapest ones I found were for between $60 and $70 each. This is $240 plus $200 for the installation. Am I being lied to? :sick:
  • anthojanthoj Posts: 1

    A week ago my 95' mazda 626 started having problems for the millionth time. At first, when I started the car, everything seemed fine and I was driving around town happily. Before I knew it, the car wouldn't rev up when I step on the gas. Or rather the rpm will go up and drops as I stepped on the gas. After that, the engine dies and won't start. I thought this was a problem with the fuel pump or something like that. So, I took it to a shop. They diagnosed it and told me that the distribution cap & rotor is old and needs to be replaced. Thinking that it would cost me less money (and it did), I replaced it myself, since it's a pretty easy job. Got the parts from napa and a few mins later my car was running again.

    One week later (today), my car has problems starting up again. I thought maybe the cap was loose or wasn't placed properly, so I unscrewed it and screwed it back on. The car starts now, but it doesn't start very normally. The car engine rattles a little more when it starts. It starts now, but I don't want to risk driving around and having it die on me again. I've already payed alot for towing and diagnostics.

    Considering my story, can anyone tell me what could be the possible source of this problem? I'd really appreciate if someone could give me some inputs.

  • guy9guy9 Posts: 1
    My '90 626 runs like a champ, but has developed an odd electrical problem. The wipers and air conditioner seem to have a mind of their own. Maybe we'll work, maybe we won't. This is not nice during a rain storm.

    However, I can always make them work by turning the wiper switch on before I switch on the ignition. Everything is then fine, until the next time it throws a fit.

    I'm not much of a mechanic, but have been known to throw up the hood and putz around. So, if anyone has a "Try this", I'd appreciate it.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    I finally replaced the rear sway bar links on my 99 V6. I found one socket joint on one of the old links worn out and loose. Installing the new links made the occassional rear clunk disappear for good (so far).

    To replace the links, you need a 14 mm open wrench, regular and deep 14 mm sockets, long ratchet or breaker bar, and a 5 mm Allen wrench. When you break the nuts loose on the old links, you will need to hold the socket bolt in place with the 5 mm Allen wrench while loosening the nut (otherwise the bolt will tun with the nut in the link socket hoint). And soak the nuts well with penetrating oil before you start. Those nuts were really tight!

    BTW, those links are not cheap. With 25% off the list price from my local Mazda dealer, the two links cost me about $60 plus tax.
  • kevin100kevin100 Posts: 2
    My friends 98 626 has working high beams no low beams a nd no dashboard lights. Any suggestions or clues as to where i should start? thanks
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