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Mazda 626 Troubles



  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    These cars have two electric fans. One is a radiator cooling fan, the other is an A/C condenser cooling fan. When you turn your A/C on, both of the fans come on and remain on as long as the A/C compressor clutch stays engaged. When the A/C compressor cycles, the consenser cooling fan will cycle too. When the A/C is not on, only the radiator cooling fan will come on, but only when the coolant sensor detects high enough coolant temperature.

    Each fan has its own relay mounted in the engine compartment, just in front of the relay box. You can test each fan motor individually by simply unplugging the fan motor leads and connecting them with alligator clipped leads to a 12 volt battery terminals. If the fan motor starts and runs, the fan is good. If it is good and the fan does not come on with A/C on, it is usually a faulty fan relay.
    Note: these electric fan motors are expensive. I had to replace one fan motor on my car and the lowest price I found on the OEM part was $ 140 for the part alone. I tried aftermarket suppliers, but the motors are different sizes and they could not match it. Relays are relatively cheap: about $20 a piece from your Mazda dealer.

    As for the rough idle, when were the ignition leads changed last? Injectors cleaned?
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    Of the three alignment settings (toe, camber, caster), it is only caster set improperly which will cause the vehicle to pull to one side. The caster settings on the left and right wheels are not the same to compensate for the road crown. Caster is the angle the wheel axis makes with the vertical toward the front or rear of the vehicle along the long axis (one wheel is ahead of the other wheel when caster is set properly).

    Pulling, or more commonly drifting to one side can also be caused by a faulty front tire. I had this happen to my '99 626 shortly after I bought it. Replacing the front right tire cured the problem without doing anything to the caster settings.
  • I bought my car about 6 months ago.It worked fine untill about 5 days ago.It would cut out when I was doing any where from 40-60 mph then it would decelerate to about 20-30 mph...I even had to pull off the road. Or when I would stop at a stop light my car would die, so i would crank it up. even though it struggled to start back up on the second time it finally worked. So I was driving it to school yesterday ,and i t was fine until I went to pull in the parking spot.Then, it died.It struggled again to restart but it finally worked.Two hours later i went to crank my car and it would not crank at all.
    has anyone else had this problem???? If so can u please tell me what it might be..because I am so concerned
  • I have a '97 626 ES and I recently took it into the mechanic to have the timing belt replaced. He replaced the belt and showed me where the spring had broken so he replaced that also. I had it back for 1 day and suddenly it dropped to 750 rpms, began sputtering, jerking and smoking. I stopped and when I got out I could see that the exhaust system was glowing red hot from the manifold to the rear wheels. Took it back to the mechanic who says the diagnostic says its the crank sensor. He then says crank sensor appears to be fine but a screen on the sensor has some bent and broken teeth :confuse: . He is telling me I must have run over something for the teeth to be bent and broken. I know I didn't run over anything after the timing belt was fixed yesterday...could these teeth have been bent before and suddenly became a problem or did the car skip time for some reason and damage these teeth? I don't want to pay him to fix this because he did a bad job with the timing belt.... :(
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    Get a new mechanic! I am almost certain that he is the one who damaged/broke the teeth on the crankshaft sensor pickup wheel. The pickup wheel is mounted ont he back of the harmonic balancer (damper). The damper assembly must be removed to change the timing belt. One needs to use a special harmonic balancer bolt on puller to remove it. If a regular gear puller is used, it will very likely damage the sensor wheel because it will grab the wheel and pull against it. The sensor wheel is a part of the harmonic balancer assembly. The crankshaft sensor by itself is just a magnet with a wire and not expensive the replace. But the harmonic balancer is, and it is most likely a dealer only item.

    So in summary, you did not run over anything to damage the sensor wheel teeth. That would be about impossible! Your "mechanic" is the most likely suspect here for the reasons I just mentioned. I cannot say with absolute certainlty if the pickup wheel is replaceable by itself, but I do not think so. Looks like you will need a new harmonic balancer assembly.

    Note: I replaced the timing belt on my Mazda before and the factory shop manual has a specific warning in it about using a proper harmonic balancer puller in order not to damage the crankshaft sensor wheel teeth.
  • I have a 1990 Mazda 626 with a 2.2l 5 sp manual trans
    I found my way here looking for any answers to my problem I'll explain.
    My car shudders/stutters when a starting out and trying to maintain a constant speed. It "shudders" in all gears while maintaining a constant speed; say 30mph . It is more noticeable in a lower gear and RPM. It completely stops above 3,000 rpm in all gears. I had it checked and it's not the clutch or transmission .I was going to check the fuel filter but am looking for more ideas.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    When was the last time the plug wires were replaced? Plugs? who replaced the spark plugs? It is possible that the porcelain insulators on the plugs are cracked, causing a miss.
  • A general tuneup fixed the issue. Plug wires were bad. I did learn something though. I hadn't known that some Ford Probe parts were interchangeable.I thank the forum for the info. Is there a way to get a list of parts that are the same?
  • skibry1skibry1 Posts: 174
    How many miles did you run that oem? Did you replace with like?
  • i am having same prob now, if u find a solution please let me know ty kindly
  • I knew it! Thank you for verifying that for me. We had to wait a week but we got the part (finally). The mechanic did it for free (what?!). I am so glad to know what actually happened.
  • ka1975ka1975 Posts: 1
    I have a 1997 Mazda 626LX which has been problem-free for a long time. About a couple months ago, the dashboard lights started to shut down every time I used the left turn signal. Now the dashboard lights will not turn on at all, and my taillights are not working either. (Interestingly the headlights and all three brakelights are working perfectly. Upon examining the wiring diagrams in the Haynes manual, I realized that they were completely separate circuits)

    Because of the earlier problem with the turn signal, I am guessing that the switch might be faulty. I did some research online, and many others reported similar problems with their Mazdas where their taillights and dashboard lights would stop working. Any ideas what the reason might be?
  • vashtievashtie Posts: 10
    I recently had the same problems with my 95 626. You most likely need to replace the combination switch. This requires pulling the sterring wheel to access the switch. Recommend you find a combination switch from a reputable salvage part dealer since a new combination switch from the dealer will likely be well over $300. My switch cost about $100 and came with a 3 month warranty. You can find sources on the internet. Mine came from a mazda parts dealer in Atlanta..mazdamart..that specializes in mazda parts. Good luck.
  • e44e44 Posts: 10
    My 4 - cyl. 5 - speed 2002 626 with 110000 km sometimes makes a grinding noise when downshifting into first gear at low speed. I cannot figure out what causes this. The noise is like trying to put a car into gear without engaging the clutch - the sound of the gears not meshing together. Suggestions?
  • I had the same clunking noise coming from the trunk area on my 2000 626. I read on another forum it is the sway bar bushings that could cause that. I changed them out and it fixed the problem.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,910
  • i've taken my car to 2 different mechanics for this code and they havent been able to find the has to do with the catalyst but i've replaced it .
  • I have a 98 Mazda 626 and the brake lights quit working. I have checked the fuse under the dash and it is still good. I think it is highly unlikely that all three brake lights burned out at the same time, but that is what I plan to check next. Anyone have any suggestions? Is there something else I should be looking at?


  • nik8nik8 Posts: 9
    My 2000 626(79k miles) shudders quite violently at around 40-45mph. Typically I lift my foot off the gas pedal and sometimes do this a couple of times to get past the shudder. Pepboys told me today(90 bucks for telling me this) that the torque converter is shattering and recommended that I take it to a tranny shop.
    Anybody on this board have any advice/experience on what kind of bill I'm looking at? I'm in the Dallas area so if anybody can recommend any local shop here I'd appreciate it.

    Any other advice/comments would be highly appreciated.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    105,000 miles for the first timing belt change. the belt still looked good. I replaced it with a Mazda OEM belt. I bought a timing belt kit from Auto zone that included the idler pulleys, because those were prohibitively expensive from Mazda. Did not use the timing belt in the kit though.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    You could have an internally leaking clutch master cylinder, which causes the clutch not to release fully when the clutch pedal is pressed.
  • e44e44 Posts: 10
    Thanks so much for the tip, and I will have it verified by my mechanic at next service. I would like to take this opportunity to thank you, p100, for your excellent and detailed advice on all matters 626 . Noteworthy is message #2237 concerning the requiremmet of a special tool for the harmonic balancer removal when changing the timing belt. It is so important to get your vehicle serviced by a good mechanic, and the best way to find one is by personal referral from someone who knows about cars.
  • I don't know anything about my girlfriends 626, other then I have made every attempt possible to not work on it, but it's sitting on a major road, last night a belt broke, I was told it had s serpentine belt, but It doesn't appear like that's correct, seeing there is still a belt that is not broke, this appears to be the belt that runs the Alternator maybe? I have to fix this myself, and can't even figure out what belt's this car runs, when the belt broke, the battery light came on, and the tempeture shot up and floored out, can anybody throw me a crumb??? Please, I've gotta get this car running, and am not having any luck getting started, why is this car so hard to find out information about? thank you, please help!!!
  • car runs great except, it idles about 2400 rpm on cold start up and will eventually slow down to around 700 rpm after 4 to 5 minutes. It also takes about 2 to 3 times longer than normal for the engine to idle down after being reved up. ( cold or hot doesn't matter? ) If I unplug the idle control valve, both of these problems go away, but then the engine won't idle without dieing.
    No codes in memory.
    thanks in advance,
  • I had a similar problem with a Toyota Corolla. One of the wires had come loose on the lights themselves and the entire back end quit working. (Also melted the light housing, no fire fortunately.)
  • Probably not, pulling the springs off the old struts and putting the springs back on the new struts is labor intensive and dangerous.
  • Hi there,

    Does it still pull to the right on accell and then left on letup?

    I ask because I have a similar problem with 2 of my vehicles and have heard it can be caused by worn motor mounts.

  • No clue dadio, I just recently discovered that water or some other liquid is getting in my trunk on the passenger side. Pull up the carpet a little bit in the trunk and see if the felt underneath is wet on the passenger side.

    Is the antenna back there? I wonder if that is the cause. I have so many problems I am working on right now that it is a low priority at the moment. (The car is in my garage and safe from more rain too.)
  • I had a quite similar problem where I was driving my 626 up a long grade (crossing the rockies) with a LOT of weight on it. There was a loud bang sound, and I pulled off at the next service station. There was transmission fluid all over the engine block. It looked like at least a quart had exploded from somewhere. I never could find the cause, so it must have been one of those seals going back into place. The tranny ran much better after the burp too.
  • I think my auto transmission is shot on my 1998 Mazda 626 LX with 163,000 miles on it. I did replace a Speed Sensor and a Throttle Position Sensor about 5,000 & 10,000 miles ago when I thought I was having transmission problems at that time....but the sensor replacements made my problems disappear. Other than the transmission the car is in great shape, inside & out. Is it worth putting a junk yard transmission into it for $1,200 or having a rebuilt transmission for around $2,000 put into it. I don't know how long these Mazda 626's go for mileage wise? Coincidentally, 10 days before I had transmission problems, I ran over a dead deer (it had just been hit) and I had to straddle it and it rumbled under the car. Could the deer have caused something to break in the transmission?
    Any help or guidance would be apprectiated.
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