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Dodge Stealth Twin Turbo



  • what exactly was ur car doing i need help with my stealth as well please if u can help im begging here lol
  • You haven't told me what your car is doing. So how can I help!
  • gsxr1001gsxr1001 Posts: 2
    ola amigos eu tenho um problema com o meu dodge .quando ando com ele com o motor frio anda bem mas depois de aquecer falha como se nao tivesse combustivel,quando ando cerca de 30 km depois paro ,e quando arranco o motor comeca a trabalhar como se tivesse falta de enegia ou gasolina.e quando esta a trabalhar desengatado no relentim acende uma luz a dizer chek engine.sera q alguem me poderia ajudar porque ja lhe mudei as velas e nao resolvi o problema
  • gsxr1001gsxr1001 Posts: 2
    i have a problem in mt dodge when the motor is could i can good driving when is hot looks like don t has one twin turbo 91. if some one can help me .thank you
  • sweet91sweet91 Posts: 2
    My friend...the 3000gt sl was indeed a base model, and upgrading to a twin's definitely starving for proper air/fuel mixture. The ECU is running stock, telling it..only this much fuel..and only this much air. The ECU will not interchange from a TT stealth to a base model harness. Believe me I've tried! The most cost efficient will be to invest into a piggy back for the ECU so you can determine how much fuel and air manually. The draw back from this is usually once every year or so...the ECU fries...another option would be an e-prong ECU that can be reflashed..if you ever find one, let me know!!! Brother, I really hope this helps you of luck to you!
  • My 1991 Stealth twin turbo has developed an internittant vibration that comes in at about 50 mph and gets worse with speed. If I stop then start again, it is gone. Seemed to be from the front end and was strongly felt in the steering wheel. Replace the front CV joints and all was well for a week. Today it was back with a vengence but clearly from the rear. This is a one owner car with 88K miles.

    Any thoughts??
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 62,436
    Did you happen to rotate your tires when you did the CV joints?

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  • No, tires are a month old. They were balanced and four wheel alignment at that time. They went back to the same spot after the CV's.

    It seems strange to have the the rear CV's go right after the front but I guess it could happen, especially on an old car.

    There is some speculation it could be in the transfer case.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 62,436
    Well that was my second thought but ti's so odd the vibration would go from front to rear. Has anyone checked the driveshaft carefully?

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  • Other than visual checks while it was getting the CV's plus visual checks a couple of weeks ago when I had the rear struts replaced there have been no specific inspections. I'm going to take it to a Mitsi dealer next week for their expertise unless it gets solved first. I never take it to a Dodge dealer.

    Anyway, what could be wrong with the driveshaft? U-joints? There has never been any damage or abuse and I am the only one driving it.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 62,436
    Yes the u-joints in the driveshaft can get loose, or even trickier, they can freeze up---look fine but in fact cannot rotate properly---they rotate somewhat on the eccentric instead. Just a thought. A bad driveshaft can kick up a helluva fuss.

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  • Well, you're right about kicking up a fuss. It does that. Kind of strange though that it was in the steering wheel but now is definitely coming from the back. It's going in Tuesday. I'll post what I find out. Thanks.
  • The Mitsubishi dealer says the intermittent vibration in my Stealth is a tire problem, not a vehicle problem. They found nothing wrong when inspecting the car, so they ran it on a lift and determined the left front was bouncing. They feel it is a balance or a belt problem. My thought is if it was balance it would do it all the time at the same speed. This one is intermittent. If I pull over, then drive off, the problem is gone until next time. The tire dealer did find these newly installed tires were out of balance, especially left front, and have rebalanced. Seems like all I can do is drive it until it happens again. Tires are Toyo Tourevo LS Luxury touring M+S 245/45R17. The tire dealer, of course, says their tires are fine.
  • micheldbmicheldb Posts: 3
    I have the same problem. It's a 1W resistor that burns up. I replaced it twice with a few other components and it burned up each time and the display went out. I bought another A/C display and A/C controller and the same thing happened with the display. A LOT OF PEOPLE have had this problem. It seems to be a wiring issue...I'm trying to find out what is causing it.
  • I read a post from awhile ago about a 1991 dodge stealth es that would start and run for a few minutes then die like the key was shut off and not start again until you turned off the ignition for a while ,you replaced the fuel pump and relay but that did not fix it. I have the same car with the same problem. what was the fix?
  • This message is for Aeroboy778: What was the problem with your Stealth ES when it would start and run for a short time and then die and not restart until you turned off the ignition for a while. you replaced the fuel pump and relay but that did not fix it. I have the same car with the same problem, any help would be appreciated
  • Aeroboy, I have the same car and the same problem, what was the fix?

  • Good morning! I had this same issue with my 91' R/T TT. I had purchased this car after sitting for years! Immaculate condition with only 42,000 miles. After replacing mass air flow sensor, o2 sensors and injectors...I had found that there was about 1.5 inches of dirt in the gas tank! You may want to pull the fuel pump out and look it over. Check the filter sock to see if it may be picking up trash. Sometimes people may get gas after the delivery truck fills (or unloads) the underground tanks..which stirs up any trash in their tank..pumped into your gas tank. If you can..may as well replace the stock pump with a 255L. Not for may have already done this. Maybe coil packs? These cars are very sensitive...I took mine to the dealership and they had no mechanics on hand that could even begin to work on this car!!! Check back and let me/us know...we'll get it running!!!
  • sweet 91, This is definately a spark problem ,not fuel. Does anybody know how to get in touch with Aeroboy778
  • I saw you were talking to aeroboy778 about a problem he had with the car starting and runing a few minutes and dieing and having to shut off the ignition for a while to get it to restart but it still dies again. this was in 2009
    do you remember what his problem was or do you know how to contact him.
    There was another thread about a popping noise coming from the ecm area,
    I have this also. any help. Snapon scanner with the Mitsubishi adapter will not communicate with the vehicle.

  • crashn2ucrashn2u Posts: 2
    its probly your fuel pump, this happens when your fuel pump starts to go out and it overheats.
  • crashn2ucrashn2u Posts: 2
    I read through alot of these posts. I must say first thing to check is your ECU, your engines computer. Mitsubishi used low grade capaictors in the ecu they leak onto the board and the fluid eats through the boards. the capacitors are rated for 2000 hours. so if you are having no start issues or fuel issues or any crazy issues you cant figure out pull your ecu out and check to see if the capacitors have leaked. you can get the capacitors changed out for 50 bucks or buy a new or used rebuilt ecu for around 250 bucks new i think are 450. these need to be checked every so often if you leave them it will eat holes in any of the 3 boards in the ecu and can lead to a spendy repair. I sent my ecu to NW tv and radio repair in bremerton washington the guy charges 50 bucks+ shipping to change out the caps and clean up the boards. He is familiar with these ecu's. Good luck
  • ajakajak Posts: 1
    My 1991 Stealth RT Turbo with only 8,500 miles started cutting out when I started driving it after taking it out of winter storage. I store the car with fresh fuel and a good stabilizer that does not contain any cleaners. I have been storing this car using the same methods since I purchased it in 1991 and have always had great luck. Similar to one of the posts that I read, I took the car to the Dealer I purchased it from and after a day they called me and said they did not have the equipment to diagnose the problem as the equipment was all obsolete. After I drive the car about 8 miles the problem seems to go away and the car runs fine. The Dealer did say it could be the crank position sensor or a turbo waste gate. None of these seem logical to me. I would appreciate any comments regarding this situation. I thought it may have been a problem with bad fuel or moisture but one of my other cars, with fuel purchased from the same source, ran perfect. Thanks for any help you can provide. AJAK
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