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Older Camry Maintenance and Repair



  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    Thanks, so then 2.2 liters for the 3rd and 4th generations (1992-2001)?
  • My girlfriend owns a 2000 Camry Le with a 2.2 L engine with 60 K and I want to change the tranny fluid, radiator coolant, front rotors and brakes, air filter and spark plugs and wires.
    1.Should I do a flush like another Camry owner here has done using 8-9 qts of fluid using a one gallon jug and should I change the filter as well?
    2.Is it time for spark plugs and wires?
    3.Besides the things I mentioned is there anything else I should be changing? All the belts look good.
    4. How do I flush the radiator? Just drain all the fluid out and replace with 50/50?
    5. She had a preinspection on the car prior to purchase and they said she needed front brakes and rotors, is it OK to just go to Advance Auto for such things?

    Also I understand it may be time for a new timimg belt. How nessessary is this at 60K? And should we change other things like water pump while we are in there? This car is a new addition to our family, I don't want her to get starnded in the middle of nowhere with a breakdown.
  • i got a 91 camry 2.2 with 270k on it runs good but the the needle in the water gauge works only when he feels liket and sometimes when it does work it fluctuates up and down,any ideas?thx
  • Hi,
    I have a 2003 Toyota Camry, has about 95k miles. Car runs great, smooth ride, etc... However, over the weekend, I was parking my car on a hill (facing down). When I had the car on reverse, my car would continue to go forward. If I'm facing down a hill and have the car is on reverse, shouldn't my car stay still (meaning not move forward nor back when removing my foot from the brake pedal)? Is this the beginning of a transmission problem? Or did my car do this because I was attempting to park the car on a hill. My car works fine (drive/reverse) on a flat surface.
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    This is normal if the downgrade is steep enough: gravity wins.
  • My Mother's Camry stalls after driving it for about 8 mi. It starts up fine and runs good until then. After that when I slow down in traffic or at a stop sign it dies. Took it to the Garage and he installed a new Distributor. That did NOT fix the problem. He still insists that the Distributor was bad and I had to pay 775.00. I told him that is like me bringing the car in for a brake problem and he fixes the muffler because it was bad. It does not fix the problem but what the heck. He now says it is probably the fuel pump and I think they are in the Gas tank. Please correct me if I am wrong. I would buy a after market one for 69.00 because a OEM one is around 175.00. Problem is what if that is not the problem I should not have to pay for things he fixes if it does not address the stalling issue. Anyone have any ideas what could cause this problem. Thanks a Lot.
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    This is hard to diagose over the internet. You need to see a competent mechanic, apparently not the one you have now. It sounds like he's just throwing parts at the problem, hoping that something eventually works.
  • hello. when i press on the gas my car doesnt give that extra kick how it use to. usually when i press on the gas it accelerates pretty fast. i drove on the freeway and got where i needed to be but i know the performance changed. i press the gas hard and it just doesnt speeds up fast enough. sometimes the gas pedal gets stuck as if their was a bottle behind it. i recently just got a oil change and new coolant and right after that it was pretty smooth and also got my radiator flushed. their is a tear on my air intake hose, can this be the reason why my car is sluggish? also i must add, this mechanic i know said that my AIC valve is dirty and needs cleaning. thank you very much.
  • Sounds like your 93 Camry is on its last leg. It's time to buy a brand new 2010 Camry.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    It could be so many things, and very difficult to diagnose over the internet with so little info that you give. It is much easier for a competent local mechanic who can hear it run and test drive it, to diagnose the problem for you.
  • alright. for future reference .. do you know the average charge for a diagnose test?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    I'm not a good one to ask, as I probably do about 98% of the work on our vehicles myself.

    It will vary by geography and labor rates, but I would suspect it would be about an hour of time. I would expect to be quoted 75 to 150 bucks or so, if you drive it out the door without them fixing what was wrong. Would obviously vary by whether an independent garage, a chain, dealership, specialty shop, etc.
  • sometimes my gas pedal gets stuck... do you any clue this is happening?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    This can happen, if you have a floor mat that slides forward under the gas pedal, or multiple mats.
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Posts: 1,679
    I've heard that very dirty throttle bodies also can cause this?
  • typesixtypesix Posts: 320
    The tear in the intake hose could likely be the cause of your sluggishness. Try taping over the tear if possible and see if that improves the driveability. The sticking gas pedal is due to carbon buildup on the throttle plate and needs to be cleaned, it's a common issue.
  • i tried electric tape and duck tape both tapes come off because of heat of engine i think. after driving with the tape it get kind of melted and sticky. i bought a used hose from a junk yard, it should be easy to install right?

    the hose has three holes one that goes in this black box, one goes into the throttle body and the bottom hole, im not sure what it is but its this small black box that looks like a coolant box. does anyone know what that small box is?
  • My Camry died the other day at a stop sign.Got it back to the house,checked fuses,all seem good...Removed fuel pump and checked it out of the tank(reattached to wiring still in car),tried to start the car and nothing from the pump..Installed a new pump and still nothing... I believe the C/OPN relay controls power to the fuel pump,checked it ,even swapped it with a few others that were the same and still nothing..Car will run if you spray starter fluid so its getting spark..Also the ck eng. light never came or anything else ..Anything else I need to check?????(Pulled codes today and a few came up PO758 and PO773 which are the shift solenoid codes...Dont have any issues with the tranny,whould this cause anything???Thanks
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Check that these fuses are not blown, and are providing voltage to the circuitry:
    - 15A EFI fuse
    - 5 A Ign fuse

    In order for the fuel pump to get power, both the CIR OPN Relay must be energized, and the EFI Relay must be energized. They get turned on by the ECM engine computer.

    Check with a voltmeter, to see if you have power at the fuel pump connector. If power, then your fuel pump should be pumping. If not, check the relays.

    Both the relays are similarly wired internally, but are slight different. Pin 1 and 2 are the primary, Pin 3 and 5 are the secondary. When measured with an OHM meter, there should be some resistance between 1 and 2, which is the coil winding. If it is infinite resistance, the coil is bad.

    When the primary is NOT energized, there should be infinite resistance between pin 3 and 5.

    Now energize the primary by grounding pin 2, and applying 12 volts to pin 1. This applies voltage to the coil, which energizes the magnet, and now pin 3 should be connected to pin 5, and you should have zero resistance between 3 and 5. If the relay is not working correctly, replace it.

    If the relays check out as okay, but are not being turned on by the computer, then you need to figure out why that is the case. Could be the computer is bad, or could be that there is some other error condition that the computer is seeing which is causing it to WANT to turn off the fuel pump.

    Let me know what you find with your testing.
  • djroffdjroff Posts: 4
    I have a very similar problem with my '95 Camry. Are your suggestions the same?

    In my case, the dash light always comes on, but when you try to engage, it may or may not do so. If it's not going to, the light blinks 5 times and shuts off. Turning off the car resets it, and it may or may not work next time.

    This problem has been getting more frequent over the past few years, to the point that where it used to fail infrequently, it now only works infrequently. The Toyota garage has looked at it but has no clue, they say I would have to "come it with it not working" -- and how likely is THAT to happen? Intermittent stuff never goes wrong when you're near the dealership!

    If this were a simpler vehicle, I'd say it sounds like it might be some weak relay that could be replaced, or maybe even a leaky vacuum hose. It seems to be more likely to work, for instance, if I'm already at speed and on level ground... as opposed to accelerating or climbing a hill. But this isn't a simple vehicle, it's a Camry. How is it that all of those peripheral lights and switches can possibly be suspected in something like this??
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Check your other posting same subject, I just gave you a way to verify that your speed sensor is working correctly.
  • djroffdjroff Posts: 4
    It sounds like you think this Speed Sensor is the likeliest cuplrit. Thank you very much, I will check that out at my earliest opportunity!

    Just to verify, is the voltage change 0 to 1.1, or 0 to 11? It appeared that you meant 1.1V, but there was no decimal, just a space between the 1s.

    And as I read the diagrams (I've downloaded a repair manual), it looks like the Speed Sensor is located behind the speedometer. Is that correct?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    I am not suggesting that the speed sensor is necessarily bad, there are a number of things that could be bad. To diagnose this problem, you need to start proving things that are working, which eliminate them from being the cause of the problem, to then keep zero'ing in on what must be bad (or you prove is bad).

    You have a cruise control computer, that takes a number of inputs (speed sensor, parking brake switch, brake switch, park/neutral switch, clutch switch, switches on the cruise control, etc). Any one of them not working correctly, could cause your cruise control to know that it shouldn't be on. If you can prove that all of the input sensors are working and eliminated as the possible cause of the problem, then you may end up with the cruise control computer itself is bad. I'd suspect any number of the sensors/switches first, though.

    Start anywhere you want with any of the switches or sensors.
  • i have a 1998 Toyota Camry and the temperature guage never moves past cold when the car is moving, once the car is stopped for a couple of minutes the gauge begins to rise to operating temperature, but once you begin to move, the gauge lowers back to cold. please help...
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Sounds like the thermostat is stuck in full open position.

    It should initially be closed, prohibiting the radiator from cooling down the engine, until the engine gets up to the correct operating temperature. Then it begins to open, allowing the hot water out to the radiator to get cooled down, and some of the cooler water back into the engine, thereby keeping the engine from overheating.

    The thermostat should open only when it gets to temperature, and then only enough to keep the engine at temperature. Open too much, and engine runs cold.
  • alpha8alpha8 Posts: 3
    i have a 95 le camry that i cant figure out whats wrong. Feels like it miss fire at get up then rund fine at highspeed,car pass smog with no problems though.Ive did a complete tune up all compression is good except one is a little low but not enough to miss. Can anyone help me or tips thanks
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    how low is it? Could you have a leaking head gasket or intake manifold gasket in that cylinder?

    How many pounds lower than the other cylinders?
  • alpha8alpha8 Posts: 3
    every one is at 140 and one of them is at 110 i sprayed carb cleaner around nothing seams to be leaking
  • blin279blin279 Posts: 21
    CD player (single disk) has failed in my 2003 Camry LE V6: does not respond to CD button, disk is inside. RADIO and TAPE work just fine. Car has 71 K miles only. Any ideas? Please advise. Thank you all! :confuse:
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