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Mazda6 Engine Problems



  • klvauklvau Posts: 1
    Hey All,

    I hope someone can help me with my weird mazda issue.

    I have a 2005 Mazda 6 and within the past couple of months, when I drive on the highway the car will start sputtering, the gear light only on the dash goes off (all the other lights stay on) and the car loses power. This will only last for a couple of seconds and then go back to full power, but while this is happening I feel like the car is going to cut off.

    I have taken it to my mechanic and he said when he hooks it up to the machine no codes come on and he doesn't know what is wrong with it he would have to be in it when it happens. The thing is it doesn't happen all the time. I could happen 1x a week or 4x's a week, it's very random.

    If anyone else has had this problem like this and has a solution I would SOOOOOO appreciate the help.

    Thanks in advance for any help.
  • I have a 2003 Mazda 6, back in August the car felt like it just died, the engine was still running though and there was an "AT" lit up the dash, then I pulled into my drive but when I pushed on the brakes the car surged forward and I had to slam it into park to get it to stop. 30 minutes later it started no lights lit on the dash and I drove it to my mechanic. He checked it out put it on the computer or whatever and he couldn't find any error codes or anything wrong it, he even took it to a transmission specialist. The car has been working since then except there is surging / lagging at times when I am going slow. Then yesterday the same issue "A T" on the dash, loss of power pulled into a parking slot stepped on brake and I almost jumped the curb when it surged. Slammed it in park and there is sits. Freaky man, scares the crap out of me and my teenager drives it and I am afraid of what may happen.

    I bought this car in 2003 and just love this car, but why can't the mechanics find out whats wrong???

    Sorry couldn't help you!
  • I too have a 2003 Mazda 6s with the v6 engine and automatic 5 speed. I'm curious when was the last time you have changed the transmission fluid. When you describe the surging/lagging when going slow is exactly how our car operates when it is time to change the fluid. We've been changing the fluid depending on our driving and where we lived betweent 30k and 50k miles. Now we're in the DC area we have been changing it every 30k miles.

    Strange as this may also sound, when Jiffy Lube punctured our air intake, this made our engine run hot and missfire a bit. Believe it or not the engine being out of tune to a point like this also made the transmission do weird things like surging and lagging.

    It is scary because it makes our wheels chirp on first and second speeds when it shifts into them. But once we started changing the trans fluid and made sure the engine is always running properly, we haven't had the issue.

    Never had the AT code come up on us though, strange the dealer couldn't find anything wrong with it when the code obviously came up for you.
  • Hi there!! I am not sure if you have fixed the problem since posting this but i own a 04 mazda 6 and was having the same problem with it for about a year! When i was stopped at a red light the car would just sit there and jump like it was struggling to stay on. Also the check engine light would come on and off constantly. When i would get the light checked it would shoot the same message that yours did. After all of this, my father tried replacing all 6 of the fuel injectors. This completely fixed the jumping and check engine light! I have not had a problem with it, well with this set of problems, since! Hope this helps!
  • the first thing i would check are all power wires going to and from the battery, alternator, and starter to make sure they were tight. loose wires can cause this exact problem( especially with the flickering ) newer vehicles require two battery wires to the battery if they come loose or become corroded the vehicle will lose all power if it is running or not. hope this helps ....
  • When your Mazda 6 is using oil you must change the PCV valve. The PCV valve is not on Mazda's service schedule to ever change or inspect! :mad:
    When a vehicle uses oil it will clog up the catalytic converter and then bits from the catalytic converter will re-enter your engine via the EGR system causing engine failure. I actually have 2 PCV valves in line on my 2006 3.0 ltr Mazda 6.
    Spark plugs must be changed @ 65,000 miles, change ign coils at 100,000 miles. Changed your auto tranny fluid every 35,000 miles. ">
  • I have a 2005 Mazda 6 4cy 5-speed manual that did the exact same thing. My warranty ran out at 75,000 miles and I had 75,627 miles when i took it to the shop. The warranty company wasn't going to cover anything at first, but i supplied them with my oil change records since i bought the vehicle in Oct 2010. i recieved all the oil changes at the dealership so the warranty company gave me a 3,000 credit towards the purchase of a new engine. The repair shop stated the transmission had been replaced at some point and time, causing damage to the clutch, fly wheel, discs, and bolts. from reading other posts it sounds like the transmissions blow up first. The repair women stated the same problems as well, jumping time, cracked pistons, dry pistons, and lack of lubrication. i wish there was something they we could do to get some of our money back. i wont buy another mazda again.
  • Same problem here, 91,000 miles. Oil light flashed for a second and then it started making bad noises. Dealer says it needs a new engine. Extended warranty should cover up to 120,000 miles but they are not because of gaps in maintenance record. The mechanic took apart the engine and does not see any signs of poor maintenance. I am seeking legal counsel in the Chicago area right now.
  • I just swapped the engine in my 2005 Mazda 6 3.0L with an engine out of a 2006 Mazda 6. The newer engine came out of a wrecked car so I couldnt test it before removing it. Now the swap is complete but I am having problems with the installed engine being sluggish. I know the ecu's are different, does that have anything to do with the engine being sluggish? It just doesnt seem to have any power past 20mph and when its in park and you give it gas, the engine wants to die out. Any suggestions?
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