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Saturn Maintenance & Repair



  • sniffermansnifferman Posts: 3
    Thanks for the tip, that fuel pressure regulator was the ticket. Saturn price was less than 50% of Checker. What do you know.. Installation was simple, and a saturn mechanic gave me some tips about that O Ring in there as well. Thanks a bunch
  • rbillieuxrbillieux Posts: 36
    How would you use a vacuum guage to test a muffler for being restrictive-how and where would you attach it / Bob B
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    You're welcome. Glad to hear you got it sorted out.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Attach the vacuum gauge to any convenient manifold vacuum source. Check vacuum with the engine at hot idle, then increase to 2,500 r.p.m. for 15 seconds. Vacuum will drop some when the throttle's opened, but then recover. After 15 seconds at 2,500 r.p.m., vacuum must be at least as high as at idle (usually is 1"-2" Hg more). Even 1" Hg lower indicates an exhaust restriction.
  • halserhalser Posts: 20
    To unioncode. On my 1994 Saturn SL2 with 124,000 miles. The valve body was replaced when the car had 72,000 miles because the car would go into reverse fine when cold but be very slow in responding to reverse when the transmission is warmed up. This time reverse was fine but the problem was downshifting too hard. At this point I was hoping not to have to replace the valve body again. The problem this time was different. I decided to try a transmission conditioner. I went to my local Pep boys and purchased a Gunk transmission conditioner that said it freed sticky valves and smoothed transmission shifting. It has been 3 weeks and 800 miles and it has not banged one time. It seems great. I figured I had nothing to lose and was afraid of the problem causing damage. Keep me updated.

  • rbillieuxrbillieux Posts: 36
    Thats is just the thing where--put a tee on brake booster where else?bob
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    The booster hose is pretty big. Tee into a smaller hose such as the map sensor or whatever's handy.
  • rbillieuxrbillieux Posts: 36
    Time for junk-yard i guess on starting-starving for air--whoosh--then up to 2 grand--heat gauge erratic--replaced sensor also idle air control and the other on throttle body speed sensor and map sensor shifting erratically lower speeds affected by surge higher speeds not map sensor line is the brake booster line finally the heat gauge settled to one eighth of heat NO MORE SATURNS--I WOULD NOT TAKE ONE IF GIVEN TO ME COMPUTER PIECE OF JUNK OBD METER SAYS MAP SENSOR AND TRANSMISSION CODE @##$%%^% :lemon:
  • pespinopespino Posts: 4
    I have a 93 sl2 saturn with ~120k miles. Once the brake is depressed the car falters then eventually stalls. The mechanic says that I have very low compression and that the engine is shot, but I doubt it because I still manage to run a high speeds easily (70-90mph or higher).
    I believe it may be electrical because once I engage the brakes, both my flasher turn signals light up slightly, not full as when I use the turn signals or hazard. And another symptom that may support my suspicion, is that once I use the brakes, the rear brake light lights up (normal) and so does both the amber turn signals (abnormal) and the back-up clear light indicator.
    I checked all the fuses and relays and cant seem to correct the problem. HELP!
  • crbcrb Posts: 10
    I have had issues starting my L300 literally for months now. It has been to the mechanic a number of times, and is due to go back tomorrow. Here is a breakdown of what has been fixed...

    - Security Disk (in the ignition cylinder) changed twice (my mechanic didn't charge me for the second one because he thought the first was defective).

    Every time I start the car, it stalls immediately and the security light flashes. The ignition cylinder will be replaced tomorrow, which should correct this according to Saturn techs and another mechanic I spoke to while the car was in for an alignment (by chance he happened to own a Saturn and had already replaced it on his car 3 times!).

    The last few days it has been warm, and when i try to start the car after sitting in the parking lot at my office all day, it's taken at least 10 minutes. Is there some heat related issue, in addition to the ignition cylinder that could make starting even more difficult?
  • I just had the engine on my 95 SW2 (132,500 mi) checked out to be sure it was in shape to make the return trip to Boston from Atlanta. It's not. Valves ready to go, clutch also starting to slip. For about a month, it's been stalling out at least once a week. Service engine light comes on, but then the next day it's fine. Reverse on an decline results in lots of ugly exhaust smoke.

    The mechanic said he could put a junk yard engine in for $2600 no warranty. I'm tempted to drive it into the ground. Do I have any other options? Blue book value is only $700, trade in $3500, but that would drop once they checked the engine I imagine.

    So much for a happy graduation from grad school,

  • pespinopespino Posts: 4
    I have a 93 sl2 saturn with ~120k miles. Once the brake is depressed the car falters then eventually stalls. The mechanic says that I have very low compression and that the engine is shot, but I doubt it because I still manage to run a high speeds easily (70-90mph or higher).
    I believe it may be electrical because once I engage the brakes, both my flasher turn signals light up slightly, not full as when I use the turn signals or hazard. And another symptom that may support my suspicion, is that once I use the brakes, the rear brake light lights up (normal) and so does both the amber turn signals (abnormal) and the back-up clear light indicator.
    I checked all the fuses and relays and cant seem to correct the problem. :cry:
    Would appreciate if anyone can suggest a fix or a second opinion before I head to a second mechanic.
  • dhersheydhershey Posts: 1
    The key is falling out of the ignition lock on my 2001 Saturn SW2. The car continues to drive fine even without the key. Can someone please tell me what is wrong and how much it would be to fix.

    Thank You
  • Hi there.
    I have a 5 speed 2002 Saturn SL2, 78000km, and the other day while I was driving I went to shift the gear from first to second, and all of a sudden the gear shift went lose and I could not get it into second. I couldn't get it back into first either and the only gear that worked was third. I got into third, and with minimal power I was able to get up and over the hill I was on and park the car. I really strong burning smell was quite prevailant immediately afterwards. I had to call roadside assistance and have the car towed back to my house. Even after 45 minutes of waiting, the smell was still really strong. I have no idea what might be wrong and I am a bit worried to take it in. Obviously I will have to do so, but I don't want some mechanic to tell me something is wrong, that isn't. I'm not a very car savy guy so I don't know much about transmissions at all. I've heard a few people say it couldn't be something as easy as a "pin" that holds the tranny in place? I don't know though. Any idea what might be wrong? is this something that's going to cost an arm and a leg to fix?

  • speaker99speaker99 Posts: 1
    Hi everyone- I have the Saturday afternoon BLUES . I dropped my 1997 SC2 148 K and had them check out a mysterious code problem. SES light on and off. I had them put on good wires and NGK plugs and clean the coil towers. They cleared the code drove the car a few miles and came back to test it again. In freeze frame P341 still shows up, and also P1651- Fan Control Relay and P1650 Driver 2 Input Voltage High

    I did notice the SES light did not come on when I started the engine- ( maybe the bulb is out)?

    As a novice to electronics why do all three of these seems related?
    Any thing I need to have them check next? I left the car until Monday morning when they reopen, but the tech I talked to did say we need to check the voltage. I printed the thread from ealier post regarding P0341 code and information and had he read it before I left.

    I don't want to spend an arm and a leg on a reapir- and my wife says get rid of the car- its a lemon- only 148K no oil leaks rides smooth, but a little leak in the sunroof- HELP
    Any suggestions? :cry:
  • nikoleknikolek Posts: 1
    Hello, I am new and this is my first posting. I own a 5-spd 1995 SC1 and she is my dearest. I love her to pieces, but unfortionatly I don't know much about cars. My baby is acting strange so I decided to ask this forum before I take it to a garage. Normally the car idols at 500 rpm. One night I started her up, she was idoling at 1500 rpm. She shakes, not horribly, but it's not quite the 'plugs and wires missing' shake. She only shakes when she idols. Temp is not high, no problems shifting or getting up to speed, she drives fine. She burns oil and it has been getting progressively worse, but since the idol and shaking, she is starting to smell much worse. Any ideas? Thanks so much! :cry:
  • sandpipersandpiper Posts: 1
    A few days ago the exhaust started giving off a tapping/buzz sound until the engine warms up for a few minutes or is driven about a block. It seems to be located about even with the seats where what I guess are the converter and resonator are located. So far I haven't found anything loose under the car. It varys with the engine speed but it isn't coming directly from the engine as I crawled halfway under it while the engine was running and it was coming from that area of the exhaust. I'd appreciate any suggestions as to what may be at fault. Thanks. :confuse:
  • zanzigzanzig Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 LS2 the is basically just like a L300, I have the same or similar problem, when I try to start it the security light blinks and it will turn over but not start. I just got back from the Saturn dealer after the “fixed” this problem by replacing the BCM (computer control), on my return trip home from Saturn some 90 miles from home stopping at a gas station I realized the replacing the BCM did NOT fix this problem. I am prepared to go to court on this one as I asked the service manager if this would defiantly take care of the problem before I had the work done, they assured me it would (verbal contract), as of course none of their service work will have any warranty either expressed or implied. Well at least I paid with a credit card – very unsatisfied Saturn owner.
  • whiplashwhiplash Posts: 2
    I'm guessing that you either live in a Northern state or Canada (where salt is used on the roads in the winter) or a coastal city (where you're exposed to the salt from the ocean/Gulf of Mexico).
    This can affect the rivets (or at least they sure look like rivets) used to secure the heat shields (and usually the first ones to go are right below the passenger seats of the car).
    I would check the long straight heat shield (right under the seats) and make sure that it's secure. Saturn will replace the rivets used to secure the heat shield at a nominal cost (they just drill out the old ones and pop in new ones, or you can do that yourself if you have a pop riveter).
    While your checking out your heat shields, be sure to check that the exhaust pipes are properly positioned and secured in the hangers as misalignment of the exhaust system can also cause strange noises.
    A failed catalytic converter will also rattle/buzz, so be sure to listen specifically to it as well. With the exhaust system cold (so you don't burn your hand), you can firmly hit the catalytic converter with your fist (straight up from the bottom) to see if there are any loose pieces of the ceramic catalyst present.
    I hope this helps.
  • whiplashwhiplash Posts: 2
    It sounds like you have a bad ground on one of your brake lights (or the third/high-stop light). I would double check the fuses (I believe there are separate fuses for the normal brake lights and the third/high-stop light) and make sure that you don't have any water in the lights.
    If all the fuses check out and there's no evidence of moisture, make sure that all the brake light bulb housings and connectors haven't corroded out.
    I hope this helps.
  • rbillieuxrbillieux Posts: 36
    most of the problems were caused by a mechanic turning idle screw the wrong way--- :) nice people--vacuum test ok would go up to 2000 when put into park engine light on--trans shifting erratic-temp sensor bad corrected surging-all other sensors replaced--throttle body cleaned about 250.00 parts my labor and brothers I canott name co. I do business with but I wish I could transcript follows----The idle stop screw controls the min idle speed of the engine from which the PCM will raise the idle speed as necessary for operation condition and load The stop screw is pre -set at factory and requires no periodic adj--be aware that improper adj will rsult in false PCM codes idle instability and problems with shifting of auto transaxle--should be done when replacing throttle body and correct speed cannot be obtained alt can produce same symptoms too R Billieux sr---
  • halserhalser Posts: 20

    Was my info helpfull? What did you decide to do?

  • crbcrb Posts: 10
    I actually just had this problem fixed (for good I hope!) last week. I had been dealing with an independent mechanic who could not fix the problem, so he spoke with a friend of his that specializes in auto electronics. After describing the problem, he told my mechanic it was almost definitely the BCM, which meant I had to take the car to Saturn (Saturn doesn't release security codes to independent mechanics). Luckily, the repair seems to have worked.

    Actually, the Saturn repairs ARE warrantied. The standard warranty from a Saturn dealer is 12 months/12K miles (whichever comes first). I asked before having the repairs done to be sure. If they made a mistake, they should fix it at no cost to you.

    Also, you may want to have them make sure they reprogrammed all of your keyless entry remotes and the ignition system. If they replaced the BCM without doing that, it wouldn't work at all.
  • I have a 1999 Saturn SW2. Back in November I noticed oil sludge in the coolant side of things, but no coolant on the oil side. I assumed that the head gasket had failed (@ only 72K), so I pulled the head, had it resurfaced, put in a new gasket, used the old bolts, and zipped it back up. I noticed right away that there was now lots of coolant in the oil side of things, and no oil in the coolant. I pulled the head off again, had the head pressure checked, and it was fine. I got in a tiff with the local Saturn dealer about whether I should have used new head bolts. Another engine, a long block, became available, so rather than mess with the original block/head, I dropped the long block in. I zipped it up, ran it, and it began to leak oil profusely. Again, there was lots of coolant in the oil side, no oil in the coolant, causing the excess oil/coolant to go overboard.

    Here is my question to Saturn home mechanics who know the answer. Is there any other interface, besides the head gasket plane, where oil and coolant can come together? For example, the intake manifold, a radiator with side oil coolers, etc....I find it hard to believe that I've got another failed head gasket.
  • standonitstandonit Posts: 2
    I bought a Saturn LS about 6 months ago, The car has been good to the wife. It presently has 68,000 miles on it. I have done most of the basic servicing on this car:brakes, oil changes, etc.
    My question is, how do I change the spark plugs on this V-6? What do I need to remove to access the plugs?
    I had a 93 Taurus SHO 3.0 and that was a bear of a car to change spark plugs
    Thanks in advance.
  • I have the above titled Saturn, and while installing a cd player, I shorted the accessory power to the frame (yes I did it, no fabled mechanic here) and since I have experienced a whole world of problems. First and foremost the vehicle will not start unless you press the unlock or lock button while turning the key (imagine how long it took to figure that out).
    All of the auxillary electrical systems work (with the exception of the power locks, but I'm getting to that) but the ignition is completely haywire. When I turn the key to start, nothing happens... at all, no clicking no power drain, nothing, even tried jumping it, no change. So I hold it there (the start position) and press the lock button and it turns over. Oh, likewise the interior lights don't work unless you're holding down the lock button.
    Problem number two. Not only does the lock button seem to govern the world of my engine, but it no longer does it's job. both the lock and the unlock button, lock the vehicle, unless you hold down the lock button for a few clicks, then switch to unlock, it will unlock one side and lock the other.... yes, it is beginning to sound like an all to familar Steven King book. Oh.. and the keyless entry does not work. I tried to resyncronize it, nothing doing.
    And to top it all off, the cd player still doesn't work.

    I assume that I've damaged one of the relays or some other peice of electronic thingy that I can't find. Anyone out there know what I'm talking about... or have I passed in to that relm of ... at least you're not as screwed as this one guy I read about....

    Thanx to anyone who can help.
  • uh.... nevermind?

    one day of frustration, and one 10 amp CHIME fuse later... problem solved, and all is well in the camp. SO... anyone who needs to start their car without this apparently all mighty, super important fuse.... don't forget to unlock.
  • warloquewarloque Posts: 1
    well the film is most likely the adhesive they use to put the glass on there a scrubby pad ya can get from hardware stores to remove it dodges and chevy's have that problem alot

    and the a/c isnt what isnt turning off the wind outside the car is actually blowing thru the climate control air intake and thats what ya feel has a tendecy to spin the fan with no power if ya go fast enough i actually have a different problem my ac/ heat fan recently went and died on me
  • rbillieuxrbillieux Posts: 36
    engine light back on same symptoms--trans acting up sticking in lower gear--map code on up and down --low voltage--where? I would advise anyone who ownes a older saturn to get rid of it Bob :P
  • inevoinevo Posts: 1
    Hi! ...I`m realy sorry that your baby have been having sick... I have a 92 sl saturn, and i like to realy take care about it!... I think that the problem must be the air temperature sensor or the coolant temperature sensor! These sensors affect the PCM to control the inyection and must be sending a bad signal... These sensors are cheaper than take your car in a garage... I hope that it helps to you to repair your car.

This discussion has been closed.