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Subaru Forester Air Conditioning Problems
My 04 Forester XT engine making squealing/rattling noises which sometimes diminished when I accelerated. My boyfriend said it sounded like a bearing. Mechanic diagnosed it as a bad air compressor and said I need the compressor, clutch assembly and freon all replaced, for a total cost of about $945. The car is only 4 years old with 62,000 miles. Does this sound right?
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I am having a problem with a '98 Forester A/C compressor. The compressor clutch runs fine in moderate weather for a period of time, then cuts out. To get it to come on again, the system needs to be turned off for a period of time and then re-started. After a total of about 20 minutes or so of running, or if it is particularly hot and sunny it can happen much sooner, the system will shut off again and NOT restart. The outlet temperature is normal (40) when running, but quickly climbs to 73+ when it shuts down.
The dealer tried to solve the problem by recharging and doing a leak check. The recharge did not help and there is no evidence of a leak. After next observing the compressor clutch cutting out, the dealer said that the problem is the clutch and it cannot be repaired. Their solution is to replace the entire compressor assembly. This is expensive. At this point, the dealership staff does not seem to know what they are doing.
Does anyone have any alternatives to check for? Could it be an electrical fault or pressure switch problem? If it is mechanical, can the clutch mechanism be repaired?
It can vary greatly. It does seem to take longer in direct sunlight so that overheating is a possibility. But then, what is the solution?
I have found that it will cut in and out by itself and under some conditions, leaving the system in partial or full recirculate mode will allow the interior to stay cool. But in strong sunlight, this is not adequate.
Again, just a shot in the dark. If the system is not low on refrigerant and the compressor works (when it works!), there must be something telling it to disengage so often. I am not sure what the triggers are, but often they have fail safe systems (shutting down if overheating would be considered a fail safe).
Tinted windows help a lot.
My 05 LGT Wagon has been excellent during the past week of high 80s low 90s here in NYC with very high humidity.
-mike
-mike
This happened last year and I replaced the thermostat. Anyone have any idea what could cause this? Thank you,
Not sure if this addresses the problem at hand...
Bob
Running the heat simply helps dissipate heat from the engine bay, but it's only a short-term fix to get you home.
Thanks -
The heater helps dissipate heat from the engine. The same coolant that flows through the radiator core also flows through the heater core. The radiator rejects engine heat into the engine bay, and the heater rejects engine heat into the cabin.
When the radiator alone is not enough to cool the engine for whatever reason, admitting coolant to the heater adds more core area to help dissipate the heat.
Naturally the car is just out of warranty, but no way should this be happening after only 47000 miles?!! Any advice on what if any recourse I might have with Subaru? Thanks for any suggestions.
I have heard that you should use the A/C once in a while to keep the seals lubricated. There's an additive in there that cycles around the system.
$1400? Yikes!
Call 800-SUBARU3 and tell them how new your car is. Be super-nice - you get more flies with honey. I used to work in a Help Desk so trust me on that one.
Hopefully they will cover at least a portion of that cost.
TIA, Silvia
I'm still having problems with the car overheating when I run the a/c. I can turn it on but if I travel on the interstate when I get off, it starts to overheat. I've replaced the head gasket so I didn't expect this to happen again. Any ideas?
I would like to know if there are any other options.
This does not sound right. In 5 decades of car ownership I have not heard of a "clog" in the AC system. Also, being unable to find the problem, and needing to replace the whole system, and the cost of $3,000, all sound wrong. It is well worth seeking a second opinion from another dealer or a good independent shop.
Funny thing is they usually leak...
I was mad because the A/C was a $460 option, but fixing it cost $700 at the time. And I had just serviced the A/C the year before.
The shop gave me a break and didn't charge me for the freon the 2nd time.
Here is the best part, you spray WD-40 or similar onto the clutch plate and in between the compressor and clutch plate.
Put the cover plate and bottle back in place.
Worked like a charm
Another dealer quoted $1500. for the fix. this dealer charged their minimum 1 hour labour but anyone with a socket set could do it themselves.
My 2009 Subaru Forrester is having related problems - whenever I turn on the front window defrost, fuse #22 blows. I took it to the dealer and they told me I need to replace the compressor, cost = $1000.
Seems like too young of a car to have this kind of issue.
buummer
Just got it recharged the other day, but noticed the problem again this afternoon.
Anyone else experience this? Any ideas? I'm not about to sink $300 into an AC repair with this many miles.
I brought it to Subaru service and they said it sounded normal as they compared it to another 2011 Forester.
I know it is not Normal. If it was it would have sounded like that from day one. It is also starting to get worse.
Does anyone else have this problem?
Can anyone tell me what they think can be slowly going wrong?
However it does not make a constant chirp noise like yours. I'm suspecting yours is a belt or pulley problem.