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2009 Subaru Forester



  • oregonboyoregonboy Posts: 1,653
    I guess that makes sense, although it seems odd that they would omit a safety feature that's available (standard?) throughout the product line, from the performance model.

    ... weight savings perhaps or a pricing target? :sick:
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 10,925
    Maybe. I thought those were required for all models beginning with the 2009 model year.

    I love the active headrests. For me, they are quite perfect and help make long drives quite a pleasure. :)
    2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2008 and 2013 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    I don't think so ... they're just sport seats, different priorities I guess.
  • volkovvolkov Posts: 1,306
    I think that looks are a big thing here. WRX gets the "sporty" single piece seatback with integrated headrest.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 10,925
    Oh, yeah.... forgot about that! Can you tell how often I ride in a WRX? :blush:

    I actually don't care how "active" the headrests are.... I just like the new shape of the headrests. They come to a point on the front of the top, and so will support the head in a perfectly upright position as opposed to the slightly (or significantly, depending on the vehicle) reclined position of the "old style" head rests.

    That means I can rest my head while looking straight forward as opposed to "looking down" with the old style. I hope that makes sense....
    2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2008 and 2013 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • I just purchased a 2010 forester 2.5X. Right away I have a serious rattle/noise coming from the rear passenger quarter panel area. It sounds exterior or at least like something hitting sheet metal. It is NOT the rear seats as the dealer said...not unless taking the seats down and putting a heavy dufflebag on them doesn't stop that sound. I checked the spare tire and the tire well area for something but came up empty. I have an appointment with another dealership on Dec 3rd and would love to have some suggestions from you guys and girls as to what to suggest.

    The sound happens when the vehicle is traveling over rough road, especially when the roughness is on the passenger side. It is not tied to the suspension, but is affected by the size of the "bumping" as I drive. It becomes frequent at speeds of 15-30 but I think this is just because you pass over more "bumps" faster at those speeds. It IS there at slow speed and at high speed. It is driving me nuts. I don't mind little rattles or buzzes, but this is way more. HELP!
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Probably a loose exhaust heat shield.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 10,925
    If you can find an appropriate place to do it, I would recommend that you have someone drive your car while you are in the closest seat, or the cargo area, in order to pinpoint the rattle better. you could even take a blunt tool, like a small ratchet or a 1/4" driver, and put it against the area if it sounds like it is beneath the plastic cladding in the cargo area.

    I have an appointment on 12/23 to address my door rattles (I hope!), but I just know the dealership is going to say they didn't hear anything, even though this rattle is so consistent I could set my watch by it. I also have started hearing a rattle in the back.... it is quite loud and almost drowns out the door rattles! My initial suspicion is the latch on the rear seat-back behind the driver's seat.
    2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2008 and 2013 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • Excuse my English, I live in Quebec. I had a rattle comming from under the roof liner where the middle seatbelt is attached to the roof. They did put some foam and now it is better. In fact, I had all the rattles (roof, doors and dashboard) and all is OK now. So, I hope that your problem. You should get somebody to seat in the back and try to find the rattle. This is the way that I found it.
  • birdboybirdboy Posts: 158
    I have had my 09 Forester in service for rattles for several days. Although it drives very nicely, the constant rattles are annoying to me to no end. I have been in a Lexus 350, Hyuandai sonata and BMW x3.. all have slight rattles as well , but not like mine. I have pieces of foam stuffed all over including duct tape on the rear seat back latches.To date both door panels were taken off and foam put in, sunglass compartment dropped and foam put in, entire sunroof headliner replaced, Cargo compartment rattle was eliminated. The latches on the rear seats do not fit snug and the seats rattle and squeak when driven on bumpy roads.
    the worst noises however are coming from the top of the armrest when I rest my elbow on it. naturally, the service manager took the car for a drive and said all was quiet except he did observe the armrest rattle and said their was nothing he could do about it. I tried explaining to him that all these rattles are subject to both road smoothness, speed travel and even more importantly the temperature The rattle in the sunroof header is worse since being replaced.
    I will monitor the rattles a bit longer and then go to the next level with my dissatisfaction.Any suggestions are welcomed.
  • hrs3hrs3 Posts: 2
    Can anyone report what your RPM is at 70mph & 80mph in 5th gear (manual trans)? The specs state that 5th gear ratio is 0.78, which seems kind of short. It's hard to find a demo car with a manual to test on the highway. Just don't want the engine to be screaming at 4000rpm on a long road trip.

    Thanks in advance.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Work with the dealer, and call 800-SUBARU3 if you need SoA to step in.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 10,925
    It is a little short, but it is not going to be at 4000 going 80, though 3500 does not seem far off the mark. I have not run mine at a sustained 80 mph, so I am not sure of the exact RPM, but, at 70, it is a little under 3000.... maybe 2800-2900?

    Here is a photo running mine at 68 mph:

    2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2008 and 2013 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    You'll find all the gear ratios here:

    The XT is geared tallest. It has the taller final drive ratio of the 2.5x manual, combined with the tallest overdrive gear of the 2.5 automatic.

    If you want UBER-tall gearing get an Outback CVT. At 80mph it's barely idling along at a hair over 2000rpm. :surprise:
  • I test-drove both the Manual and Auto versions of the 2.5X. Even with the differences in the top gear ratio and final drive ratio, I found the top gear RPM to be almost identical: 70 mph ~ 2800 RPM. I found I could cruise in either at 80+ mph without the engine being as thrashy as my Toyota 2.4L. When I read that Consumer Reports found that the Manual got 2 mpg better in their testing, I'm looking forward to the Manual for myself. 67 days and counting...
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    It actually got 3 mpg better in testing. 25mpg vs. 22mpg.

    Best among non-hybrid SUVs by a wide margin.
  • Hi, I got this one also (the armrest) and they put some Silicone Lubricant Spray on the rail of the armrest and it did work, no more rattle there.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    ...owning the only small SUV to make both the IIHS Top Safety Picks for 2010 and Consumer Reports Best of the Best most reliable! :shades:

    Enjoy the day, folks!
  • Congrats on owning such a great SUV. Would the same hold true for the 2010 Outback?
    Undecide between the Forester and the Outback. Two things stopping us from getting the Forester are the low passenger seat and the unavailability of electric passenger seats(Canada).

    We enjoy road trips and am concerned that the above complaints will make these trips less enjoyable.

    Your thoughts would be much appreciated.

    Happy Thanksgiving!
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    In my more motivated days I'd already have figured out a way to put some spacers to raise the passenger seat half an inch or so.

    I modded my Miata's seat track. It wasn't hard at all.

    I just gotta find the motivation. Shouldn't be hard, a few washers on the seat bolt mounts. How high you can go will depend on the length of the bolts. On my Miata I bought larger bolts from NAPA and raised 'em 3/8".

    I also got the dead pedal back about the same amount, 3/8" or so.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Ok, I suddenly felt motivated, and had a close look.

    The passenger seat track isn't bolted down, it's riveted down, looks like 5 pretty heavy-duty rivets. The rear center mount has 2, each other corner has just 1. Like these but a lot thicker:


    All 5 are accessible from above. They could be drilled out from the top, and replaced with bolts of the similar size and thickness. The tops of the bolts would have to be rounded off as to not interfere with the sliding seat track. There is *plenty* of clearance below all 5 mounting points, so no problem with clearance from below.

    So all it would take it drilling out those 5 rivets, replacing them with 5 nuts and bolts, and putting washers or some other spacer (boxed steel?) inbetween. Don't go too crazy so as not to modify the design of the seat from a safety standpoint.

    The only fit/finish issue is the rear of the seat tracks has some plastic gray covers that match the interior. You could cut them and then glue the tops back on the now-higher seat track, but you'll have a gap the same size as your lift.

    To be honest this doesn't seem like too difficult a project. You'll need a strong drill that can drill through the metal rivets, and maybe a ratchet set, but that's about all the tools you'd need.

    Unfortunately it's cold outside, but this just may be a project for a warm day.

    Are you in the Mid-Atlantic region? If so maybe we could team up on this project. It's always easier with an extra set of hands.
  • hrs3hrs3 Posts: 2
    Great Pic! Thanks! This really helps. I had an 99 Outback (5-sp) and if I remember correctly, I was pulling 3700-3800 revs at 80mph. Loved everything about that car, except that it was revving kind of high at speed. My Dad's 97 Impreza (4sp auto) would spin at 3100rpm at 80mph. Can't wait to get back into a Scooby-Doo.
  • A couple of random thoughts on Outback versus Forester:

    - I've not yet had a chance to test drive the new '10 Outback, but typically you are going to find a higher quality interior with the Outback versus the Forester.

    - I think both are equally good as far as their safety and ability to handle inclement weather (deep snow, etc).

    - The Forester probably has a bit more cargo space (with more vertical height), while the Outback is more "station-wagon" like.

    - If you want manual xmission, few (maybe none as of '10?) Outbacks offer this.

    - The moonroof is much larger in the Forester (though some models of Outback offer dual, smaller, sunroofs).

    Good luck with your decision (FYI - I have an '09 Forester X w/ manual xmission, and overall I am very pleased it)
  • Thanks to all for the ideas on the rattle.

    I was told by another Subaru owner to check heatshield. I did last night and cant see/feel anything loose. Lets hope I have some aggressive problem seeking service people willing to take the time to address this.

    I have already experienced the buzz sound from the front doors (tied to speakers playing at first, then just from driving) I can live with it, but the rattle in the back is more like knocking of two pieces, which in Vermont happens everywhere you go due to rough roads.
  • rich28rich28 Posts: 23
    I had my doors dynamated (sound insulation) at an auto-sound place - that got rid of most of the buzzing caused by the speakers, plus I installed nice speakers. The auto-sound place also fixed some stuff that was loose or causing vibrations. Yes, I paid for it, but they had incentive to fix the problem correctly. Now, I get minimal buzzing mostly from poor audio quality from Sirius.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Base Outbacks do come in a 6 speed manual (nice!).

    Also, the dual moonroofs are gone. Last model year for those was 2009.
  • I bought the same model Nov 30. Exactly the same rattle issue after the first day of use. I am taking it to the delearship tomorrow. Did yours get fixed? I am concerned that this could be a safety issue with Forester. I am a first-time (and last) Subaru buyer. I had such great hopes!!
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Nothing to worry about in that regard:
  • By calculation, 70 = 2820 RPM, 80 = 3223.
  • I took it in, they replaced something regarding the "pillars" that they said Subaru had a service notification out on. Did NOT fix it. Going back next Wednesday for round 2.

    I will say this. Don't know if they tried very hard, but they treated me with a lot of respect. I can only imagine how it sounds to the guys on the other side of the counter when you come in with "rattles and clunks".

    I owned 5 chrysler vehicles, and I NEVER took one in for a clunk or rattle and put 100K on 4 of them. I am hoping that the rattle can be corrected because it is very annoying. Other than that, I have been very happy with the vehicle. If they can remedy that, I think it will be all thumbs up.

    I did have the service person tell me to be careful of the moonroof if you live in cold weather conditions. He said the design is flawed and will leak. Not sure if this is universal to moonroofs or a problem with Subaru...but of course I have the moonroof.

    I hope you get your rattle fixed. I really think it is coming from the rear of the vehicle on mine...or the passenger rear quarter panel side. I was thinking of a cable up against the sheet metal, like the one that opens the gas door, or maybe the latch of the hatchback, although it seems solid when I shut it, I am wondering if it is an up-down motion that causes the rattle. I am driving with the hatch up to see.

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