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Mazda Protege Maintenance and Repair



  • erics6erics6 Posts: 684
    n the case of Mazda the risk of a broken timing belt is disasterous.

    The 95 is a non-interference engine. brochure

    Some people drive until the timing belt breaks, tow it to a garage and get the belt replaced. You'll have to decide if you want to do that. Just depends on how long you plan to keep the car and what maintenance you want to do.
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    "Some people drive until the timing belt breaks, tow it to a garage and get the belt replaced. You'll have to decide if you want to do that. Just depends on how long you plan to keep the car and what maintenance you want to do. "

    Of course, it will happen on the way to your job interview with Donald Trump.
  • Hi.
    We are having the same problem with our Mazda Protege 2002. Have you figured out the cause? Suggestions?
  • Kpresley ~

    I too ran across this post from davidingilbert when I started having CEL issues with my '02 P5. There have been several posts regarding this problem since this that would give you a great overview of the challenges we each faced prior to having the problem resolved. In addition to davidingilbert, see posts from winston3x and myself or go directly to posts 1201, 1204, 1219, 1222, 1227-1230, 1235 and 1237. If you want to skip all the history though and cut right to the chase - davidngilbert posted this update (#1187):

    Debbi - here is the latest. What they ended up doing was replacing the coils from one Protege and putting it into my wife's car. So far, so good. We only have had the car back a few days, so we are not sure if this is going to work or not. The dealership was not 100% sure either seeing how they can only put so many miles on a car.

    I will keep everyone posted.

    Replacing both of the coils (in addition to new plugs & wires) proved to be the resolution to my CEL issue as well and so far at least, replacing the coils appears to have solved winston3x's issue as well.

    Good luck to you ~
  • Hi Debbi, Kpresley!
    First, Debbi and the Gang! Goodness, THANK YOU so much! :) Your kindness in discussing your problem, is helping me resolve my wonderful Misfire Code I hope tomorrow. The Coils will be replaced and then I will update you all to let you know if that did the trick. Already, Sparkies changed, EGR valve cleaned, Fuel Injector Cleaned, so I feel so confident that it is the Coils! What do you all think about getting together a letter to Mazda, to let them know their faulty Coils have caused so many problems for all of us. I love driving my 2002 P5! But I think I had a lemon. :lemon: It only has 57K miles on it, it had a new transmission replaced in June. I mean the most I drive Zoom Zoom is less than 4 miles a day. I read somewhere that you never should change the transmission fluid in a Mazda. It is odd, a month before I had Tranny issues, I had my fluid changed, and I think that was the culprit for it.

    Sorry didn't mean to get on another rant, but thought I would bring up my experience with that too. I have my fingers crossed but again Thank you so much for sharing your information! This is why the internet is awesome! :blush:
  • Update! Okay got coils replaced this morning. Drove about 10 miles CEL back on, but not flashing, Got new code from Autozone. Cat Converter is out! But guess what P 5 friends, I pull out my warranty book. The Cat Converter is covered for 96 months or 80K miles!! Yay! Mine is 72 months with 57K Miles! :) Dealer will be called monday, and then Yay! zoom Zoom I hope will be fixed! The good news though, my car did not have the shakes and drove very good!!!

    Zoom Zoom Zoom!
  • I have a 1992 Protege, 1.8 SOHC. When I start it cold, the idle is around 2000-2500
    rpms. Any clues?
  • debzoomzoom ~ sorry to hear about your cat, lucky for you though that it's still under warranty...unfortunately mine isn't :cry: And about getting together to write a letter to Mazda regarding this problem, I'm all for it! I had thought about doing one on my own but pulling together to write one is an even better idea! Of course the selfish side of me hopes that by writing a letter that Mazda would cover some of our expenses ;) but I would be happy if it would make techs (especially the ones working at the dealerships) aware of this problem so other p5 owners don't have to go through what we all have. Looking forward to hearing how replacing your cat works for you.... Debbi
  • Both of my fog lights have been taken out by rocks & need to be replaced but at $100.00 plus each through the dealer, I decided that maybe I didn't need fog lights that bad..... Anyhow, I ran across some on Ebay for a real reasonable price (under $50.00 for the pair) and am wondering if anyone has installed fog lights made by "Blinglights".... And if so, how difficult were they to install & how are they working for you? Thanx - Debbi
  • Hey Debbi!
    Two Deb's think alike huh! I am sorry that your wasn't under warranty. That is nuts. I had no problem going to my local dealer. It took them about 10 minutes to test it out and said yep I nailed it! I talked to them about the information we are providing each other and the guy I talked to said maybe a letter from all P5ers might help! I get my Cat changed Thursday and I can't wait. My car is still not shake, rattle and roll, nor is it losing power, but something feels different about my car, but I won't complain too much because at least I feel safer in driving it. I know I had my guardian angels looking over me. I lost power during my rough roll incident when I was merging onto a major highway. Thank Goodness nothing was in the lane I was moving.

    Again, I just want to express my thanks to you all for being so kind in sharing your issues with the P5. I think we are all experts to say, if you get a Random Misfire.... don't take oh it's nothing as an answer! :blush: :D
  • mzpmzp Posts: 2
    Hi, I have a 2000 protege and the radio, cigarette lighter/outlet, and power side mirrors all went out the same day. They would come on intermittently for a while, but now very rarely. Occasionally if the weather is warm the radio will come on for a bit. Checked the fuses and they seem fine. Any other ideas? Would love to hear if anyone else has had this problem and what they had to repair.

  • iamziamz Posts: 542
    I'm going to guess you have a loose wiring harness somewhere.
  • mzpmzp Posts: 2
    I did hear it could be the AC Relay - anybody know if that's what it might be? If so, I don't have an owner's manual - anyone know where it's located, what the part is, and how to replace it?

    If it is a loose wiring harness, how can I repair that myself?
  • Hey there, I recently inherited a 1997 Mazda Protege from my grandmother. Car runs great, for the most part. Just a couple of questions. The engine light came on about a week and a half ago, so I had my uncle look at it, and he determined that the oil needed to be changed so he helped me take it in for an oil change, and told me that the engine light "might take a while" to go off, it's been more than a week now and it's still on.

    Also, the right rear brake light isn't coming on, not sure how long that's been happening, can someone tell me what that would cost to fix?

  • Skittles - Although it is possible that the oil in your '97 needed to be changed, I do not believe the "Check Engine Light" would come on for that. I do not believe Mazda's maintenance system was advanced back then to determine when you should change the car's oil. There most likely is something else going on with your car that may need some attention. If you take it to Checker's or some place like that, they should be able to plug into your car's diagnostic computer and tell you what's up for free. Call first before you cruise over.

    In terms of your rear brake light, it most likely is just the bulb. If it costs $5.00, I think that is a lot. As long as you are at Checker's, let them look at it and see what they can figure out.

  • arabamarabam Posts: 11
    Took my 2000 Protege to dealership for service the other day. My car has 78000 miles and for the last two years we only put 5000 miles (since we bought our other car)

    Except the CEL light that comes on/off intermittently, I did not have any problems. However, I asked the service to run the 60k service for peace of mind within this year. On top of the ~$400 I was charged, here is what they came up with:

    1) CEL Code: 171 - Lean fuel - possibly because of a leaking intake gasket ($500)
    2) Timing Belt - Because it is time to replace it !! ($399)
    3) Engine mounts ??
    4) Rear sway bar links and bushings ??
    4) New oil ran ??

    I am driving the car only once a week and already spent $400 for this service. What do you guys thin ? Do I (urgently) need any of the listed above?

    I guess in case I decide to sell the car, I will need to have at least the first two done!!
  • Thanks for the advice. I got the brake light replaced and my uncle took another look at the car and can't seem to find anything going on, which is weird.

    On the other hand, I'm just having bad luck haha, I seem to have somehow broken the cover for my front right turn signal, could any of you tell me what that could cost to replace? Also, is it normal for the right blinker to blink super fast if the cover's broken?
  • downtubedowntube Posts: 43
    1) CEL 171 Lean fuel
    Does it idle rough? Check the air intake tube for cracks. That's the large tube between the air cleaner box and the intake manifold. They tend to crack in the ribbed area. About a $35 part. Also could be caused by a vacuum leak. Look/listen for sucking noise.
    2) Timing belt - yep, time to replace it. Pretty difficult job for DIY
    3) Engine Mounts - if they're broken, then need to be replaced.
    4) Rear sway bar end-links and bushings. Fairly easy DIY project.
    4) New oil pan. Why?

    I'd get a second opinion on the engine mounts, end-links, and oil pan.
  • downtubedowntube Posts: 43
    Did you get the Check Engine Light (CEL) scanned, to get the code? Local auto parts store will probably do that for free. You need the code.

    Fast blinking light will be because a bulb is burned out. Try to find a replacement at a local junk yard.
  • arabamarabam Posts: 11
    Thanks for the comments.

    Yes - the top of the air cleaner box is cracked; it seems like a relative easy-to-change part, but I could not find this part in none of the online part suppliers; may be I am not searching with the correct part name?

    They quoted $399 for the timing belt repair - which I thought was not THAT bad!
  • toswalttoswalt Posts: 1
    What did you ever find to be the problem with this?
  • frankiewfrankiew Posts: 10
    I have a Mazada Protege' 01 and i am looking to replace the Cam Sensors, it keep bucking and dying out suddenly. From a Diag. it is my CAM Sensors is this a hard fix that will require a mechanic knowledge.

  • frankiewfrankiew Posts: 10
    Did you fix that cam sensor your self? I have an 01 Mazada that is doing that to me and that is what the Diag. determined it to be also. Was that difficult?? was just wondering.
    Thanx in advance for any thing you can provide also.
  • pmp3pmp3 Posts: 3
    Looking for some DIY help on my 1995 Mazda Protege, 1.5L automatic, with 35,000 miles.

    A couple weeks ago got the CEL and have noticed a poor idle and poor accelaration once the car warms up. Since the car is a 1995, haven't been able to get the Autozone-like places to read the diagnostic codes. Have done the following: Change Oil/Filter, New air filter, inspected air intake boot and vacuum lines for leaks, replaced PCV valve, spark plugs, and upstream O2 sensor. No improvement w/ any of those actions.

    Poor acceleration is typically at low speeds - car seems to run ok at higher speeds, although some hesitation noticed in the 40 mph range. Need some street smarts on how to dissociate other possible problems: ERG valve?, Mass Air Flow sensor?, spark plug wires?, O2 sensors?, etc. There was a posting about jumpering some wires inside the diagnostic box under the hood to read the computer codes by observing the CEL flashes - but that didn't work. Trying to do my best at not having to take it to the Mazda dealership for obvious reasons.

    Also, about 2 months or so ago had a bad-gas experience w/ alot of water from a Shell station; at that time, mechanic emptied gas tank, flushed lines, replaced fuel filter, etc. When finished, car ran great. Not sure if theres a link here because if had been running fine for over a month.

    Please advise.
  • I'm new here and after looking in the forum didn't really find this topic. I have a 2001 Protege with 61K miles on it. I just took it in for it's 60K checkup and I was told to change the timing belt soon. My question is that I was also told that I should replace the cam seals becasue they can leak and I'd just end up spending more money later if they do. Does anyone have any opinions or suggestions on the matter? Thank you!
  • downtubedowntube Posts: 43
    EGR is a good possibility, I'd pull it of and inspect for carbon buildup. If it's clearly stuck partially open, I'd replace the valve.
  • cpljohngcpljohng Posts: 1
    My 2002 protege did the same thing after four months of trying things i found that the EGR valve was sticking causing the car to quit at idle and had problems starting at times ,took EGR valve out took it apart and cleaned it out .beats paying 300 for new one . car works like new
  • frankiewfrankiew Posts: 10
    Thanx Braja,
    I will have to take a look at that I got me some New Plugs and I am going to try that and then maybe some wires also.

    Was it hard to work with that EGR that you speak about??

    I appreciate the input also..
  • frankiewfrankiew Posts: 10
    Thanx alot Pmp3 I will have to take a look at the EGR also. By the WAY what does EGR stand for...

    Thanx again.
  • downtubedowntube Posts: 43
    EGR = Exhaust Gas Recirculation

    It allows exhaust gas to flow into the intake manifold (recirculate) during certain operating conditions. Purpose is to control the amount of oxygen in the cylinder for combustion. Reduced oxygen lowers combustion temperature, reducing the amount of NOx created.
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