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Mazda Protege Maintenance and Repair



  • arabamarabam Posts: 11
    I replaced the cracked Air Box and reset the CEL -it came back on again in 30 miles. Seems like the problem is indeed a vacuum leak!

    I got two quotes for repair and both are $500+ ??
    Is it really that expensive to replace the intake gasket? I hope this is really the source of my CEL (error 0171) problem -

    I am planning on getting a quote from a local mechanic also! Would be interest to hear from someone who had a similar issue/repair in the past.
  • kira08kira08 Posts: 6
    Hey Guys,

    Got a Mazdaspeed recently ... check engine light was on ..... when got the error code P0172 ... it saying a rich code ..... and after a day ..... it read a code for misfire .... don't know whats happening .... the mechanic suggested to replace the bad plastic compartments .... and sadly ... some exhaust which supposed to be connected was cut ..... it has a lot of changes done ... like aftermarket exhaust ... and the staibilzer or something replaced .... my mechanic doesn't feel its a good car ..... He is a very nice guy .... knows what he is doing ... trust him .... just wanna leave a warning to ppl to take a thorough check before buying this car ...

    don't know whats gonna happen with my car .... if anyone has any workshop manual for 03mazdaspeed plz ..... send it to me or ... guide me there ...
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    Got a Mazdaspeed recently ... my mechanic doesn't feel its a good car ...just wanna leave a warning to ppl to take a thorough check before buying this car

    Agreed, you should always get a used car checked before you buy it. I don't think the Mazdaspeed is any different. It sounds like you may not have done the check before but only after the problems started showing up. I wonder what it would cost for you to "restore" the car back to its original state.

    In any case, good luck to you.
  • downtubedowntube Posts: 43
    Sounds like the car was modified by the previous owner, but I wouldn't assume that means it's bad. Try to find a mechanic experienced with modified cars. There are also several online mazda communities specializing in modifications that may be able to help.
  • alalimealalime Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 mazda protege with 62,000 miles on it. I bought it used about a year ago. Recently, while driving on the highway, there was a shudder that felt like the car had been rear ended, the engine accelerated for about a second, and then the car drove fine. The CEL did not come on. Any ideas?
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    I have a friend that bought one used for a very good price. the first thing he did was replace the CAI with a factory air box along with other parts that had been swapped out. with a few hundred bucks, the car was back to semi-stock and running well.
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    shudder that felt like the car had been rear ended, the engine accelerated for about a second, and then the car drove fine

    My 2002 Protege5 has done that occasionally in the last 5 years. It feels like the transmission kicked into gear. It does not seem to have led to any problems in my case.
  • pbrwolf2pbrwolf2 Posts: 2
    I had the reverse problem with my last 2 proteges. After about 60,000 miles they would shudder at every stop light, the RPMs would drop for a second and then everything would normalize until the next stoplight. I always thought it was a "Mazda-thing".
  • kira08kira08 Posts: 6
    thanks for your reply. what is CAI? I have more problems now .... after I took it the Mazda dealer... like the turbo is not kicking in .... and the check engine light is flashing .... and a cylinder misfire detected .... this thing is not letting me Relax ..... first thing need to replace are .... vacuum hose, trubo vacuum hose and Air box .... do u have any idea where I can get these ... since the dealer quote is really expensive .....
  • kira08kira08 Posts: 6
    thats true .... should have checked before buying ... trusted the dealer ....
    Its taking a lot of my time and effort ... been running around back and forth . with mechanic shops ... and dealers ....
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    keep us posted and all the best!
  • anogananogan Posts: 1
    I am having a problem with my ac. It started with it working on and off when it was on setting 2 but the other ones were fine. Now it only works on 1 and 4. Also there is a buzzing noise comming out of the vents and it gets worse from 1 to 4. Thanks in advance for the help.
  • kellibeankellibean Posts: 2
    thats the problem i am having. i bought my 03 protege in july 2005 with 59000 miles on it. that bucking thing it does catches me off guard. its only done it 3 times since ive had it. the first time was a few months after i bought it, then sometime last year, and last time it was a few days ago. luckily no problems have come of it. my parents seem to think its the transmission, and in some other sites ive gone to mazdas seem to be notorious for transmission failure, i hope this is not the case.
  • kellibeankellibean Posts: 2
    thats wierd. my ac will only work on 1,3 and 4. everytime i put it on 2, the ac light flashes off and on then staqys off and the air gets warmer. any help for that?
  • Hey all. It's me - davidingilbert again.
    Just a quick update - no "CEL" since my last visit to the dealership for the issue - I believe in February. I am also glad my experience helped everyone here with the same or similar issue.

    I am in need of everyone's help again.
    By now, my wife's Protege has about 72,000 miles on. I mainly use it now because I drive approximately 60 miles a day between home and work.

    When driving on the freeway between 60 and 70 MPH and the tachometer is around 3,000 RPM, I get this high-pitched whining sound. The closest sound I can think of when the dentist is filing your teeth, but a little higher than that sound. It never last very long - 2 to 4 seconds at most. At first I thought it was the tires making contact in a strange way with the cement. But, now I believe it is something behind the radio or A/C controls. But, it appears to be happening more and more. Plus, my wife has heard it - so I know it is not only me! :D

    Anyone else have a similar issue? If so, any idea as to what it could be?

    Please advise.
    Have a good July 4th folks!
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    I recall a few of those cars having air leaks around the windsheild. try having a buddy push on the windshield (from the passenger seat) while you are driving. If the noise changes, have the windshield re-sealed.
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    between 60 and 70 MPH ... I get this high-pitched whining sound. ... 2 to 4 seconds at most.

    Interesting. I'd check around and under the car for loose bits. You may want to isolate the sound by driving on a quiet stretch of road.
  • lnstar44lnstar44 Posts: 1
    anyone know first where the sparkplugs on a 01 protege es are located and any special tools i would need to change
  • I have the same question "The first is it okay to drive the car with the overdrive always on or at lower speeds in town should i turn it off?".
    Anybody can help us? Thanks a lot!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,604
    I would turn it off for both longevity of the overdrive and for better performance in traffic.

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  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    Why leave it off? All leaving it off does is prevent the transmission from entering its highest gear (which happens to be O/D). Perhaps if e feels the price of gas is too cheap, this is a good idea.
  • Don't know about the "buzzing noise" but I just yesterday finished replacing the center switch on my p5 that only wrkd on step 1 and 4. Switch ( new one ordered thru dealer approx $32) was burned in center and close to starting fire. Last week I thought I'd smelled something burning. Anyway it was fairly easy to replace if yu know what to do and had the right tools. I did not! Gently pry the large plastic outline off at top, sides and bottom. Next gently pop the three center direction knobs from their sockets. Two of mine were stuck but did work out with very thin screwdriver. Unclip the 4 way flasher connection at the top to give you more room. Then there are 4 phillips screws at bottom of the frame, one on each side in back and two on the bottom. Here's where you need very short screwdriver since you can't get a standard one behind. One of those small "L'" shaped screwdrivers with phillips on one end and standard on the other works perfect. The ac/heater module will then come loose so you can get inside to unscrew the red plastic cover and get to the plastic nut on the back of the switch. I didn't have the right tools so it took me about 4 hours in 96 degree heat with sweaty glasses to get it all back but now it works great and I did save the 82 dollar per hour labor cost. Hope this helps.
  • I have an 02 Mazda Protege ES with the sport mode auto transmission with 106K miles on it. For the most part, the car has been running great. But recently the car would sometimes shudder for a second when I'm pulling away from a traffic light or stop sign then runs smoothly while cruising. I'm suspecting that it might be a minor transmission problem because I'm overdue for a transmission service(the fluid is brown). I'm going to take it to the dealership to get a transmission flush to hopefully cure the problem. Has anyone had simillar problems with shuddering on take off with their Mazda Protege? Please let me know.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,604
    Overdrive is not efficient at too low a speed---if anything, driving in OD at 25 mph puts a lot of strain on the engine and the transmission. It's no accident that many new cars have temperature sensors that don't even LET you into overdrive until the engine and transmission are warmed up.

    What you get with driving at low speeds in OD is "lugging" of the engine, which is the most stressful of all conditions for an engine.

    Aside from all that, if you stomp on the gas while in OD at 25-35 mph, you just fall flat until the car downshifts.

    I don't think you are saving any gas by driving in OD at very low speeds. You might actually be wasting it because you need more throttle to get anywhere.

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  • jmaciasjmacias Posts: 1
    I replaced the water pump on the protege and I took out the timing belt. I marked it before removing it and now I am putting back all the parts back in and it seems that my timing belt if off mark. I followed the Haynes Manual and followed the directions but its not working. Does anyone know what the correct marks are to set the timing. Please help.
  • retro_gretro_g Posts: 1
    It's a 2001 Mazda Protege LX 2.0

    OK! I've had the car almost 3 years now... My engine crapped out 3 or so months ago. The car sat for a month until I purchased a used engine from a reputable local company. One weekend a friend and I made time to swap the engines. Taking our time we used one day to remove the broken down original engine and the next putting in the purchased used one. All went fine, no problems to mention... I turned the key and it started up and ran like nothing had ever happened... At that point I was very pleased and took her out of his garage for a test spin around the block...

    The very 1st thing I noticed was a noise like iron wire dragging under the car on the ground. It had at that point sat outside on the street for a good month so surface rust building up on the inside of the rear drums or front rotors is very likely. It was that kind of noise... In addition to that the brakes where nonexistent. I had to bury my foot into to the pedal to stop. I've inspected most if not all brake hardware, changed all pads/shoes and bleed the brake system. The pedal seems very stiff, not spongy & definitely off the floor. It still doesn't stop well at all... I'm down to replacing the master brake cylinder. Does anyone think different?? What about the booster? Could the booster be the route of my brake problem??

    OK now on to my next issue two weeks into running the car with the new used engine... I would describe it as a smooth bucking or surging when accelerating from a dead stop. Its worse when the car/engine is cold. It will do it 3-4 up to 7-8 times before smoothing out. Sometimes when warm it won't do it at all, but most the time it will. Other than that it behaves the way it should to me even giving better gas mileage over the old engine before it died. There are no warning lights of any kind... Out of gear it idles fine.. In gear, car stopped it idles fine... I've changed the transmission fluid, about to change the plugs, and maybe the fuel injector rail with injectors from my old engine I had saved “just in case”. Someone suggested to me it could be the transmission filter... Does anyone have any thoughts??

    FYI: Car has 94,000 miles on it & the engine has 85,000. :)
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,604

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  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    The car will not shift into OD at 25-35mph (regardless of OD switch position) unless the load drops down around zero. Protege transmissions have been electronically controlled since the early 90s.
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    Make sure you reconnected the large vacuum line to the brake booster or that there are no cracks/leaks. It sounds like to could be the source of both issues.
  • I've got one shop telling me that I need this, quote from the estimate :

    "Replace clutch disk: Includes R&I Transaxle
    To R&R Flywheel, Add Clutch disk
    To R&R Pilot Bearing, Add Clutch Disk
    Clutch Disk
    Clutch Slave Cylinder"

    this total is $783... I'm in Northern VA.. pretty high labor costs

    Another place's estimate adds up to $700 but they say I need a master cylinder not a slave, they also say I need a front seal.

    A third shop says I need a new clutch assembly, drive train (includes replacing pressure plate, Di Pilot and Throw Out Bearing). Also a new flywheel. And they say I don't necessarily need a new slave or master cylinder, but have given me estimates on those as well, for a grand total of a whopping $1330.

    I can't tell from this what I really need, and I can't tell which shop I shold work with, all I know is that there's no way I can afford the third if I do all the work. Any advice or suggestions about what I should do????
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