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Mazda Protege Maintenance and Repair



  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,604
    I'm a big fan of replacing all the clutch parts, such as:

    clutch disk
    pressure plate
    throw out bearing
    pilot bearing
    clutch slave (depending on mileage, or signs of leaking, filthy fluid, etc)
    clutch master (as above)

    And yes, the transmission/transaxle has to come out.

    HOWEVER, replacing the flylwheel is rather dubious because they haven't inspected it yet. Unless it is badly, and I mean BADLY cracked from heat, it can be resurfaced (a good idea) if ...IF....there is any roughness to it. If you don't resurface a flywheel that is scored or rough, the clutch will chatter, which is most annoying.

    $700 sounds fair enough to me if they do everything I mentioned.

    A clutch job is not something you want to do again in 20,000 miles. So replace EVERYTHING that requires the transmission to be removed. A clutch slave or clutch master is no biggie, that can be done when it is needed.

    And again, I think replacing the flywheel as a preventative measure is extreme and should not be done unless it is really messed up.

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  • aboyer82aboyer82 Posts: 1
    i cant figure out how to get my speedometer and odometer to work. how do i get them working again?
  • pokiepokie Posts: 1
    I had a similar problem. Just all of a sudden, the speedometer would not work and the CEL flashed. I put it in the garage for 5 years. With the rise in gas prices, I brought it out of mothballs and decided to address the issue. It was the speedometer cable that runs from the transmission thru the firewall to the dash (not hard). It is a booger to get at from both ends. Buy a new cable from the dealer. You will have to disassemble the front dash. This is tricky. Be careful of the connections behind the instuments (i.e., lights, displays and all). Easy from the tranny to the dash. Pull the instrument panels slightly forward (not much give at all) and be careful not to disconnect them. Unscrew the current cable and insert the other end of the new cable in the speedometer. Using your fingers (as your eyes) ensure that everything is reconnected (did I mention very snug here). Reinsert the instrument panel and reinstall everything. Not difficult, but a BOOGER to get to. Works like a champ. Good luck!
  • Hey All,

    Just bought my first Mazda -- '02 Protege LX (2.0), AT and such. However, I noticed as I was driving it back down to Los Angeles today that once I get to about 55-60 mph, I start to hear a very noticeable rattling sound from what sounds like the bottom right of the front passenger area, almost behind and a little below the glove compartment. I'm assuming it's probably the strut mounts or the stabilizer links, but is there anything obvious a new zoom-zoomer like me might be missing?

  • Just bought a 2000 Protege ES 1.8L with 5 speed manual, 84K miles. The car runs well but the idle speed seems low (maybe 500 rpm), and the car idles roughly and seems to want to cut out, but never has so far. Previous owner said his mechanic told him it needs idle adjustment. The car was had been in a minor front end accident about a year prior and has a new radiator. There is an intake assembly running from the air filter housing out to the actual air intake on top of the radiator. This was apparently never put back right after the accident, and the tubing doesn't connect well to the filter housing, so that the actual air intake is probably taking place at the base of the housing. I could fix this easily enough, but there also seems to be an opening on the bottom of the tubing, so that either way I'm not really going to be taking in air from the assembly over the radiator. My questions: 1) Should I adjust the idle, or should I try to fix the intake first? 2) What should the intake setup look like? Is there really supposed to be a hole at the bottom of the tubing right as it connects to the air filter housing, or is there supposed to be another hose or something there? If anyone has a car like this and can take a photo of what the intake is supposed to look like, I'd appreciate it. Thanks.
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    Sounds like it's missing the resonance chamber which I doubt would cause the idle to run low.

    I highly recommend not messing with the throttle body adjustments. If it is dirty or clogged, clean it. If all the hoses and tubes are in good shape, check the IAC valve under the throttle body.
  • I misspoke. Actually, it idles around 700 rpm, but roughly. It runs beautifully when not at idle. What is involved in cleaning a throttle body or an IAC valve? If I have someone do it, how much will it cost?

  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    Maybe $200 but it really depends on how the tech is feeling on the day you take it in.
  • kaymtkaymt Posts: 1
    96 Mazda Protege LX 1.5L with 104,000 miles, (past) due for timing belt replacement. :sick: Initially told parts needed were:

    timing belt
    cam seals
    crank seal
    valve cover gasket
    timing idlers
    water pump

    Estimate totaled $370 for parts (from Advance, not Mazda parts), $200 labor - this all by a friend, independent unemployed mechanic working on his own. I was then advised that if anything "went wrong", etc., this could create a bad situation (for me) as there would be no liability/responsibility for anything that might happen. :(

    After contemplation, I decided best way to go would be where I could get a warranty on work (parts and labor), so got a shop estimate of $630 with same parts. Mazda dealer quoted $900, but after hearing previous estimates, convinced me to bring car in for them to check and they would work with me, convincing me they could get cost down to at least mid-$700s or probably even lower. Another shop quoted $260 labor plus cost of genuine Mazda parts which should make total around $700 +/-. ;)

    Took car into dealer, they tell me I don't need tensioner (would save about $65 for Mazda part per online research), added additional belts bringing total for parts/labor to $770 and intake "boot" (can't find this online - is it same as valve?) for 85.78/no additional labor, now back up to original $900 quote (actually $932.78 with taxes). :cry:

    I do feel warranty is important as I cannot afford to put out more money for re-repair and have no other means of transportation. Do you know if Mazda parts carry their same warranty if service not done by a Mazda dealer/mechanic? I have owned Mazdas for several years now, but this is highest mileage and most major work at one time that I have ever had done on one, so I guess that is what is causing me the most stress, but would really appreciate your opinion. :)

    I can't get a definitive answer on what they are charging for labor (as they tell me it varies from $95/hour, but less than that for this type work), but it seems that is the major cost difference, appearing to be (from quote of $260 of other shop) to what appears to be closer to $500 with Mazda, and they tell me they have worked to get the price down and are basically "cutting me a deal"?? Am I getting a good or reasonable deal for the work listed? :confuse:

    Two more things they found that will need replacing soon are a thermostat gasket (quoted $225) and distributor cap which is leaking minimal oil now (quoted $150). I was also told by them that my car is in extremely good condition for age/miles. :D Do these prices sound reasonable too? Thank you so very much for your opinion/advice!!! :blush:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,604
    Well I think you made the right choice in not having a moonlighting mechanic work on it (since he would not guarantee his work) but it might have been fine to have the independent shop do the work if they are of good reputation and have a long familiarity with Mazdas. If it's just a local gas station type of shop, I don't know about that.

    I think genuine Mazda parts would have a warranty no matter who installed them but you'd have to demonstrate defects is materials and workmanship, and of course the LABOR is not warrantied by Mazda if an outsider installs the part.

    I know some very good indie shops so I'd be inclined to save the $300 and go there rather than the dealer, but if you don't have strong confidence in the indie shop or any idea of their reputation, then the dealer is really your only logical choice.

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  • downtubedowntube Posts: 43
    If there's any air leak between the filter box and the intake manifold, that will cause an idle problem. The accordian-like tube is susceptible to cracking. Since the car's been in a front-end wreck, I'd inspect carefully for leaks.
  • kenjenkenjen Posts: 9
    I have a 94 protege 194k miles dx automatic. I have had this car for about 3 months and it has been great...until I parked it one night and when i got up the next day and cranked it it was sputtering and knocking it will not idle and when i try to drive it there is no power. If I put it in park and floor the accelerator it will only go to about 3500 rpm(still sputtering) and almost sounds like it is flooding.When I got the car I put new plug wires,plugs,dist cap and rotor button on it and accessory belts. I am disabled and only drive the car about 20 miles a week. I thought it may be fuel filter so I replaced it and removed the injectors and cleaned them still the same please,thanks.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,604
    You might drive to Autozone and see if they can get any trouble codes out of that OBD-I system, since you've done all the obvious stuff already. They'll read them for free.

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  • kenjenkenjen Posts: 9
    thought of that but they said they cant read it cause it is a 94..but it wont drive,no power. I did discover it has a very weak spark off the coil(yellow) instead of blue. swapped the coil out with another to see if that was it but same thing,yellow spark. I am stumped,I looked in a haynes manual but the electrical diagrams are sketchy at best. I am getting battery voltage at the coil(13.2 vdc) and the old coil ohmed out within spec.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,604
    Well then there are "manual flash codes" you can read off the engine light but you have to know how to do it on the OBD-1. I should have remembered that Autozone doesn't read OBD-I.

    You might have to cruise the specialty Honda internet sites to get this flash code information, or buy the proper workshop manual that tells you how, but you need some hard data to figure out what to do next. You can't just be throwing parts at it, that's expensive and frustrating. Your public library might have something.

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  • kenjenkenjen Posts: 9
    I saw something the other day on what your talking about I will just have to remember where it was. thank you very much for your input and if I get it figured out I will be sure to post the fix.. Kenneth
  • bdkaybdkay Posts: 6
    To all you guys and gals out there with a Protege that runs rough with a code that says intermittent misfire, here is what it took to fix the problem.

    Spark plugs, coils , wires, injector flush, new PCV valve and count 'em four fuel injectors. One was really bad and the dealership put in one new injector and 3 used ones. All of this was covered under the extended warranty we bought 5 years ago. All the work worth about CAD 2600. Not a cent did we pay to have this troublesome problem fixed. So far, no more check engine light and the car is purring. Hope this helps other people out there with the same problem.
  • bdkaybdkay Posts: 6
    To all you guys and gals out there with a Protege that runs rough with a code that says intermittent misfire, here is what it took to fix the problem.

    Spark plugs, coils , wires, injector flush, new PCV valve and count 'em four fuel injectors. One was really bad and the dealership put in one new injector and 3 used ones. All of this was covered under the extended warranty we bought 5 years ago. All the work worth about CAD 2600. Not a cent did we pay to have this troublesome problem fixed. So far, no more check engine light and the car is purring. Hope this helps other people out there with the same problem.
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  • kenjenkenjen Posts: 9
    got the code it is a 7-rich/lean detected,I would expect this being the spark from the coil is weak.there is full battey voltage at the coil,ignitor tested ok and coil ohmed out within spec. :
  • kenjenkenjen Posts: 9
    where is the egr valve on a 94 sohc protege?
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    I don't think it has an EGR valve.
  • kenjenkenjen Posts: 9
    could this be the problem???????? if i squirt wd at the base of the injectors the car stumbles which I guess means it is sucking air ,bad o-rings? chime in, the auto parts store wants 7 bucks for the o-rings hardware store 20 cents?
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    Chances are it's a non-standard o-ring. Most of what you'll find at the hardware store is nitrile. You can try using it, but it may not fit right or might not be the material you need (EPDM, viton, silicone, etc). So what's worth more: your time or $7?
  • kenjenkenjen Posts: 9
    Yeah i thought about that 2 seconds after i hit the send button,After all the threads I have seen where people have spent big bucks chasing these rough running symptoms down 7 bucks is a cheap fix, thanks,Kenneth.
  • kenjenkenjen Posts: 9
    well the injector seals didn't help, has anyone ever looked at the spark comming off the coil to ground? I am still thinking it is a lack of good spark but I am getting conflicting opinions on wether or not a yellow spark is bad or not.I tried a delco coil out of my jeep and it too shoots a yellow spark, if the timming belt jumped a tooth would that cause it? I feel like i am swimming in a pool of sharks!!
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    I would continue to look for air leaks. If spraying around the injectors changed the RPM, look for a leak doing that with a spray carburetor cleaner.

    Focus on rubber parts like intake boots, vacuum hoses and grommets.
  • kenjenkenjen Posts: 9
    found the iac valve is not working properly,any suggestions on the best way to clean it/remove /type of cleaner. could a blockage in the cooling system be a contributing factor/ I just found out the guy i got it from put 2-3 cans of radiator stop leak in it(the kind with the pellets) just before i got it....
  • Were can I find a manual for the protege 1.6 .Is there anywere I can Download the manual,with out paying for it..Thanks!
  • Hi i have a 1994 mazda protege DX and it will not start.. my engine keeps on flooding.. but i am not hitting the gas pedal or nuthing.. its as soon as i turn on the key the engine floods. and i get black smoke coming out of my tail pipe. and i got a strong smell of gas... i do not have a Diagnostic tool and the auto zone has only a OBM II scanner... The next auto repair store charges 75 dollors and hour... all i want done is to run a Diagnostic.. is there a way to extract the codes manually?

    also what could cause my engine to keep flooding? Sensors?? my Fuel injectors. work fine as i had my Brother in law help me with it.. we removed the injectors.. and they all look good tested them they all work fine so we put them back into the car... could it be a Sensor? like the O2 Sensor?
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