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Mazda Protege Maintenance and Repair



  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    Try unplugging the air flow sensor and then starting the car. If it starts, look to make sure the vane is moving freely in the AFS and that it returns to the closed position on its own. If it doesn't, start shopping for a rebuilt or used one.
  • you are talking about the mass air flow sensor.? that 200 to 300 dollor part... i was hoping it was just the O2 sensor.
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    Well try unplugging it first and see if the car starts. If that does it, then go rob a bank to pay for it.

    The O2 sensor will do nothing for you.
  • A couple weed ago I noticed my 2000 Protégé (1.6) was cranking progressively slower during startup. (I bought the car used over a year ago and had no idea how old the battery was.)
    The alternator seems okay because once it’s started the car run fine with full headlights, etc.
    This past Sunday, after having sit for two days, there was nothing when I turned the key, not even a click.
    I replaced the battery Sunday night with a new Die-Hard and Monday morning it started fine and cranked hard.
    Now this morning, (Tuesday) the battery is completely dead.
    Anyone have any ideas what could suddenly be draining my batteries?

    Thanks in advance.
  • I have a 2000 mazda protege 1.6 DX. Whenever the fuel level gets to about a quarter of a tank it acts like it is not getting enough gas. Runs fine when it has more gas in the tank. I am thinking it is probably a clogged filter or fuel pump is going out. I was hoping someone could give any advice, and if it is the pump or filter please tell me the best way to replace it. Thanks
  • David,

    I am having the same problem. But recently I have figured out how to find out what's doing it. Something has grounded. To test and see what it is,,,hook a test light to your battery,,,,inside your fuse box(inside the car) remove each fuse,,,the one that keeps the light on the tester is the problem. A wire has grounded. Trace that wire and you've got it. It was my horn wire.Had a tiny worn spot from aging and vibes on a bumpy road. This problem drove me nuts for three months.
  • Where is the fuel filter located on 2003 Mazda Protege? Thank you so much for your help with this.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,827
    he High Pressure and the Low Pressure Fuel Filters are located in the Fuel Tank on the Fuel Pump Unit, to replace either Fuel Filter you must remove the Fuel Pump from the Fuel Tank.

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  • Could the fuel filter be a cause for the motor cutting out when accelerating?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,827
    Yeah but I'd be more inclined to test for a bad fuel pressure regulator, also basic tune up. A fuel filter would have to be pretty clogged up, drastically so.

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  • Do you know of any procedures to test/replace the fuel pressure regulator? Where its located?

    Your help is very much appreciated.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,827
    You need a pressure gauge and proper fittings to break into the fuel injection rail. Then you need to know the specs at cranking and at idle speeds. It's best to have a repair manual to talk you through these procedures, or go to a shop and have the test done.

    It should read 30 - 36 psi with the fuel pressure regulator connected and 39-45 psi with the fuel pressure regulator disconnected.

    This test would tell you if the fuel system is substandard in some way. If it reads okay, you go on to other areas such as ignition or sensors.

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  • My 97 mazda protege has just started acting up lately. It was fine for a while and now i have to hold the key to start for more than a second to start. After that i will sit in neutral and half the time when i put a little gas on it the engine will knock and either turn back on or just stop. on the occasion where i get it to go around the corner when i get it to about second gear it will cut out and stop. can i get some help please this is my first car and i dont want to lose it.T_T :cry:
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    have to hold the key to start for more than a second to start ... half the time when i put a little gas on it the engine will knock and either turn back on or just stop
    I would start by checking the battery and then the alternator. You are likely not on the original battery but might be using the original alternator. If so, the alternator becomes the more likely suspect.

    It might be wise to find a garage you trust and have them check out the car for you. You may find that there are other problem areas (example: spark plugs) and the garage may suggest a schedule for their replacement/repair.
  • Help please, I need step by step instructions in removing the center console. I'm needing to reach the air condition fan switch, in order to fix it. The wiring behind the switch has loosened and will work, then stop and then work again. I want to check that because after messing (turning it off and on)with it starts working. Thanks.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,827
    what year is your car?

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  • I have a 2001 Mazda Protege with about 85,900 miles on it.

    Sometimes when I make a sharp turn, doesn't matter if it's a left or right turn, my car stalls out. It doesn't sputter, it's more like someone flipped a switch. I'm able to turn my car right back on and it runs normally.

    What could this be?
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    Power steering pump. Does it make any strange noises when this happens?
  • No weird noises, it just feels like the wheels lock up.

    About how much will it take to replace a power steering pump?
  • Yesterday, my car's temp guage was nearing hot or at hot on my commute home. I noticed some antifreeze on the ground, but didn't appear to be leaking from under the engine anywhere. When I popped the hood, the only steam coming out was by the antifreeze coolant box. It was boiling hot and overflowing, dripping out causing steam. I continued on my 40 mile commute home with no issues, just stopping periodically to cool the engine down. I would keep the heat on high to try and drain some of the heat away from the engine, but later no heat would generate, only cold air. No warning lights came on the dash, car seems to run and start fine. What do you think the issue is?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,827
    Well first of all, driving home like this was not a good idea. Next time, call for a tow.

    But hopefully you had good luck and no engine damage and so you need to look for the source of your overheating problem.

    Overheating is caused by a complex range of possible issues and has to be approached methodically, going from the simple to the complicated, and from the most likely to the least likely.

    The reason you have no heat is that you have low or no coolant in the system.

    But to the diagnosis:

    1. A leak somewhere -- this can be tested doing a 'pressure test' on the cooling system with a pump

    2. Stuck thermostat -- remove, test and inspect

    3. inoperative electric cooling fans -- test and observe

    4. clogged radiator -- this can be "flow-tested" by a radiator shop

    5. air in cooling system -- when new coolant was added, system was not properly purged of air with bleed screws or using approved filling methods

    6. bad head gasket or cracked cylinder head -- tested with pressure testing pump, and look for coolant on spark plugs or air bubbles in radiator.

    good luck with it! Hope it's one of the simple ones.

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  • Thanks for the information. The odd thing is, the car runs just fine. When it was at hot, still performed great. The temp gauge would surge up to H, then down a bit. Kept doing that over and over. The coolant container was boiling hot. Now no heat comes from the heater inside. I'll be taking it into the garage tonight. Thanks.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,827
    Engines like to run hot actually but once you start to lose the coolant, it's a whole different ball game and one where the engine strikes out every time.

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  • The other odd thing was the coolant never dropped below the full line. Thanks again.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,827
    Well if it's overheating the coolant expands rapidly and it may show full in the overflow tank but you'd need to check it when cold, too.

    From what you say I'm thinking the cooling fans cut out perhaps. If you had a chronic overheat you'd never have made it home. When at freeway speed, you don't need the fans as much, if at all, to cool the car down.

    So the general rule (with exceptions) is:

    low speed overheat/traffic---cooling fans or other air circulation issue

    high speed overheat-- coolant circulation issue

    very fast overheat within 5-10 minutes of driving --- head gasket/blocked or stuck thermostat

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  • Thanks again. I did hear the fans kick on when at a stop periodically. But I didn't check the fluid level when the car was completly cold. Will do that. With this problem, I still managed to drive it 40 miles home. Speed ranged from 35-70. I went back roads so I didn't have to stop as often.
  • I have a 2000 Mazda Protege. When I tried to start it yesterday morning, the engine was turning over, but it just wouldn't start. Any ideas?

  • I have a 2000 protege and is i was driving the car started overheating. now i stopped and waited for the engine to cool down the i added some water to the small tank because it was empty. i started driving and the car eventually cooled down to normal. the next morning i added some more water but i found what appears to be oil in the tank. can anyone tell me what this means? will i still be able to drive my car? what do i have to do to fix the car and is it costly?
  • I copied this from another post. I have the exact same symptoms. I would greatly appreciate any help. Have a '95 Protege ... just wouldn't start one day. Fuel pump runs when you jump the diagnostic port, EFI and circuit opening/fuel pump relays work and Ohm out correctly. Started hoping it was the timing belt but looks good and turns the camshaft fine. Have compression and spark (although suspiciously weak looking spark ... have new wires, coil, cap and rotor and plugs). Only thing I found which puzzles me is that at the connector port under the seat to the pump, I only get about 6.5 volts with the key on. It should be full battery voltage. I'm not getting any initial prime pulse or fuel pump noise while cranking .. only during the diagnostic jump. I'm about ready to try to start it while jumped just to see if it will start at all. Could this be the PCM module? I'm about to do a fuel pressure test but this has me questioning the fuel pump operation.
  • Just want to post a solution to a common Protege Problem.
    Car: 98 Protege ES, 1.8L, Manual Trans
    Rough idle - when disconnect clutch, the engine goes below normal idle.
    Check Engine light is on. OBD-II code P0240. Light may turn off for some time.

    Main air intake is leaking between air filter and intake manifold.

    Replace the plastic pipe OR
    Use medical gauze to wrap the pipe in between ribs to close air leaks. And on top of that wrap tightly with flexible duct tape.
    The light should go off after 3 full cycles (car fully cools off - warms up)

    How it works:
    The code P0240 Suggests that it is one of these:
    1. your catalyst is not working (O2 sensors before and after the cat read the same).
    2. Main vacuum leak
    3. Something terrible in the engine with the valves.

    I had new OEM O2 sensor up front installed earlies same year for fuel economy issue (BTW-it worked!) so I didn't think that was an issue.
    I drove alot and didn't see catalyst overheat.
    I checked all vacuum hoses for leaks and found cracks in the intake. I decided to fix that and magically it fixed rough idling and check engine. Enjoy!
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