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Mazda Protege Maintenance and Repair



  • I want to know what could possibly be the problem of a 1995 Mazda Protege burning lean when the diagnostic test says it is the 02 sensors and they have been replaced and it is still burning lean?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,876
    diagnostic codes only point to the system in distress. No computer yet invented for a car will tell you the exact defective part (in most cases). Many an 02 sensor (barrelsful?) is needlessly replaced because they are not properly tested after the codes come up. I don't know what code you got so can't say more, but things like bad/dirty MAF sensor, vacuum leaks, sticking injectors, etc. can all make the 02 sensor unhappy.

    whoever "fixed" your car, guessed wrong.

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  • I have a Mazda Protege ES with 55K miles on it. I purchased it new. It has always been garaged. Recently every morning when I get it, I put it in reverse and back out into the street, stop and put it in drive. The car will hesitate for about 3 -5 seconds and then go in gear and everything is o.k. for the rest of the day. This happens every day.
    I had a transmission flush and fluid change at the dealer, but it didn't help with this problem. Any suggestions are appreciated.

    Thanks, Abner33
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    Mazda Protege ES with 55K miles ... has always been garaged. Recently every morning when I get it, I put it in reverse and back out into the street, stop and put it in drive. The car will hesitate for about 3 -5 seconds and then go in gear and everything is o.k. for the rest of the day

    Do you think the weather may have anything to do with the hesitation? Some garages can get quite cold overnight and cars react to cold weather. You may want to give it a few more seconds to warm up to see if this helps.
  • Thanks for your reply and suggestion. I don't believe the weather is contributing to the problem.
    I have been experiencing this problem for about a month now. During that time we have had very warm summer type weather and even though we are having lower than normal temps now, it hasn't been below 50 degrees F.

  • I have replaced my o2 sensors, sparks plugs, wires, rotor, fuel pressure regulator, had throttle body cleaned, and my car is still burning rich. Took it to repair shop and the code comes up PO1170 changed sesors but the problem still exist. Checked the hoses for leaks and there are none. What could it be?
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    According to an OBDII website, the code P1170 in the case of Mazda vehicles indicates "HO2S Bank 1 Sensor 1 Circuit Fixed (Bank 1 Sensor 1)". I'm not sure this explanation helps to make things clearer. :confuse:
  • No this does not help because with that code we have changed both sensors and my car is still making my spark plugs black with soot and we have changed filters, plugs, fuel pressure regulator, fuel filter, wires and the car is still burning rich. I dont know enough about the fuel injectors. I wondered if they were bad would that make my plugs soot up or even the EGR?
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    I dont know enough about the fuel injectors. I wondered if they were bad would that make my plugs soot up or even the EGR?
    Sounds like your car needs a diagnostic rather than parts replacement.
  • I had a diagnostic thru two shops and that code PO1170 is what was given and the car is still burning rich. Running out of optins.
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    Seems obvious, but I'll ask anyway to eliminate it from the equation: what kind of gas are you using? Is it regular 87 or something else?
  • I do use 87 gas. But could the catalytic converter throw black smoke on plugs if it is bad?
  • I have taken my Protege to a mazda dealer and they said that my O2 sensors need to be changed and I have had it done. Is there anyone that has black soot on there plugs know what to do about the problem. I have changed from 87 octane to 92 octane. I have even changed my fuel injectors and when I drive the car starts to putt and blow black soot out of tail pipe desperate. At a limbo.
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    black soot on there plugs ... when I drive the car starts to putt and blow black soot out of tail pipe
    Yech, this is starting to sound like the head and maybe even the transmission may be involved. You have mentioned visiting a dealer to discuss the problem. Did they mention anything other than the O2 sensor as the possible cause?
  • cav4cav4 Posts: 3
    Actually it doesnt make any sound at all doesnt crank, fire. Thanks. I'll try knocking on the starter next. Will check oil again think it was at the most low. Seems like i heard a small noise when it quit originally. Thanks for the response appreciate it. Will report next results. Thanks.
  • bhahnbhahn Posts: 1
    wondering if anyone knows how to fix o/d light blinking on and off and check engine light staying on.seems like the car kicks out of overdrive and goes back in in a minute or so.aready replaced the speed sensor.did not help.any ideas???
  • Hi there. I have a 2002 Protege5 hatch. Nearly a year ago, I lost speed 1,2,3 on my fan speed switch for my ventilation control. I still have speed 4 on the switch.

    I was wondering if this is a common issue to have a switch fail, or possibly something like a relay in the system that is gone. Looking for somewhere to start to fix the issue as winter is fast approaching.

    Thanks in advance.
  • Hi again.

    I have a 2002 Protege5 Hatch, with 5spd tranny.

    I am having intermittent grinding issues when going into 2nd, 3rd and reverse. I might suspect that is COULD be something as simple as a clutch adjustent, but then again I don't know if they're self adjusting or not.

    Seeing as it's intermittent, I wouldn't suspect that the tranny (synchro's) would be bad...???

    So looking for feedback. Clutch adjustment of synchro's??

    The car has 90K miles (140K KM roughly).

    Thanks in advance.
  • 99dx99dx Posts: 3
    Noises problem
    1999 Mazda Protege 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 13,333 miles

    2009 i bought a car that was sitting for 3 years (DX 1.6 liter). The tires had flat spots: replaced/resolved.

    I added a couple ounces of Redline Water Dispersant to the Fuel Tank; replaced Timing Belt and Seal; aligned wheels. Added half a tank of High Test when tank was half full and running rough.

    Now I've got a Check Engine Light and an Intermittent Rattle like radio static (The 'stripper' base DX came without a radio or clock) at Idle in Center of Dash! Your thoughts?

    Would Disconnecting the Battery Clear the Code and maybe let it learn to like real gasoline; establish new Parameters? What should a poor man do about these problems? Should I buy a Diagnostic Device? Which one?

    The Dash problem noise? it stopped for a minute after i slapped the Dash ...

    Thank you, Scott.
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    o/d light blinking on and off and check engine light staying on ... did not help.any ideas?
    Did you get a diagnostic done? The codes may help narrow down the problem.
  • Blower motor resistor bad! Behind glove box! Look up autozone part for a picture and you will see it as soon as you look up there behind glovebox! Easy fix buy new one, unplug old, unscrew and put new one in and replug it in.. Hope this helps!
  • Just to let folk out there know.
    I have a 1990 mazda 323(think it's called protege in the states).Had it from new. It has done 350,000 kilometers,and is just in for the 2nd replacement clutch.Exhaust has never been changed,
    Can anyone guess how many miles I am going to get from this engine(b3 1.3l)
  • Hi folks.

    A few weeks ago, my Protege5's rear brakes stuck to the rear wheels. Unfortunately, my girlfriend didn't really notice until she saw the smoke. She drove about 5 blocks, downhill. We brought the car to the dealership in the afternoon (and the brakes had unstuck by then) and they switched out the brake pads (apparently, they were melted quite badly).

    Low and behold, today, the rear brakes stuck again. This time, my girlfriend noticed that the parking brake was loose (no resistance when putting it on). It's going back to the dealership for repairs but I'm wondering if anyone had this problem before, and what it could be?

    I was thinking maybe the rear calipers? Moisture in the cables or something?
  • 99dx99dx Posts: 3
    I had a car with rear drums break and wedge one shoe ... but that's not your problem. Fix that parking brake before the rear brake job.
  • have the air flow meter check, also egr vale wil cause that problem
  • Auton,

    By your suggestion, I'm guessing that the alternator is burried down near the clutch.
    I'm sure when everything is apart, the dealer will suggest replacement no matter what.
    In order to check it, does it need to be visually inspected, or can an electronic diagnostic do the trick ahead of time.


  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    dealer will suggest replacement no matter what
    In an honest dealership, the mechanic should suggest the replacement of a worn part if it will save the client money. The saving is in the labor that will not need to be redone. The real issue for many drivers is do we trust the mechanic giving the advice? If not, seek another opinion.
  • My experience has been to ask the 4 local dealers the same question & get 3 - 4 different answers, which is why this site is usually so valuable. You sounded expereinced in the eval & replacement of the item, thus the question.
    Thanks for the advise; as always I'll ask around.
  • I have a 2000 Protege ES (169,000 miles) with two issues that might be related. First the right headlight on works on high beam (the dashboard light no longer turns on) and the left one does not work at all. I replaced the bulbs and it did not fix the problem. While I was changing the bulbs I noticed the plastic connector housing was half melted. After the headlights did not come on I cut out the connector housing and directly attached the wires to the headlights. This did not help and I still have one headlight. Another aspect of this is that all the electrical components (headlights, interior light, radio display, etc.) flicker while driving and while the engine is on and the car is stopped. The alternator went out for the 2nd time in 3 years and I thought that maybe the voltage regulator was causing the problem, but with the new alternator the issue still exists.
    The second issue is that the vehicle idles very rough. My check engine light does not come on, but Autozone returned a code saying that cylinder 3 was not firing. I changed the plugs, wires, and ignition coil, but the engine is still running rough. The old wires and ignition coil had a couple ends that were black and charred. If anyone has suggestions I would be most appreciative to hear them. Thanks!!
  • I have same problem as gerard8153. Protege 5, 2002, air speed knob fell off. looks like internal mounting came off or broke in back of console. Any ideas on how to remove console so i can try to fix this? :(
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