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Mazda Protege Maintenance and Repair



  • barich1barich1 Posts: 143
    You might check your coolant temperature sensor. If it has failed and thinks the engine is cold at all times then it would inject way too much fuel for warm starts (which would cause flooding).
  • My switch on the dash board has broken and i cant seem to located the vent under the hood. can someone please tell me where the vent is located so i could shut it. winter is coming need to keep the cold air out.

  • mazdafunmazdafun Posts: 2,329
    If you're talking about the flap that controls the flow of outside air into the cabin, it's located inside the manifold behind your dash. You'll have to take your dash apart to get to it.

    A possible work-around is to block off the inlet ports, which should be under the grill between the hood and the windshield.
  • Thanks alot for ur help it help alot
  • I have a 2000 Protege LX w/ 170,000 miles on it... I've been very happy w/ the car, except when I lost the rear main at 65,000 but I had extended warrenty so it wasn't all that bad... However... about a year ago it blew a plug... The hubby (not a mechanic) tapped and drilled a sleeve into it and it worked.

    About a month ago... I stopped at a stop sign, and when I went to take off... it sounded loud.. like muffler loud. It's not loud in nuetral, reverse, or when the clutch is in. You can rev the motor and it's just as quiet as any new car out there. It's only loud when you are in a driving forward gear. The hubby checked the muffler and all that stuff twice.. no holes or anythin.

    A week later... The car started spitting and sputtering... idleing hard, hard. Did a tune up on it... it run beautiful (but loud) for a week. then it started spitting again... brought it to Auto Zone.. (those guys are GREAT!) tested the car... got message that the o2 sensor and gas flowage thing... changed one of the o2 sensors.. drove nice (but loud) for another week. Spitting again....?

    Other than...bring it to a mazda dealer(lost my job) any suggestions? :cry:
  • Hi,
    I wish I had some information for you. I have the same problem with a 92 protoge. Fuel pump does not run when the key is turned on. If i jump it it runs fine. Now I am also not getting a spark. I replaced the igniter, no luck. Returned the igniter and bought a distributor, fuel pump still would not run , car fired, stalled and again no spark. Returned the distributor. I also can get the pump to run through the diag. port under the hood. Pump also runs after cranking and key is turned off. Read in code book that if one of the sensors is shorted it can shut down the ecm without blowing a fuse or setting a code. I am hoping since your post was in june that you found the problem. This is driving me nuts. Please respond either way. Thank you.

  • Ok, heres the scoop. I have a 93 protoge. Recently it would not start. I did not hear the fuel pump run when the key was on. Checked the pump it runs fine. Also jumped it from the diagnostic connector under the hood. Also not getting spark. replaced plugs and igniter and nothing returned igniter and bought a distributor, still no fuel pump, engine cranked started and stalled no spark again. returned distributor. Fuel pump runs for a split second after cranking and key is turned off. Read that if one of the sensors is shorted it can shut down the ecm and not blow a fuse or set a code. That is my next plan of attack is to check every sensor. I have read these symptoms on other posts, but have not found a reply. If you have anything please post or email me directly Thank you

  • I am starting to have the same problem with my car, What did you find out

    All help would be greatly appreciated
  • I haven't found the problem yet, but will post when I do.
  • An air conditioning compressor might be my next focus, but am dreading the expense. Any idea of the cost for this? Can it be tested before fixing/replacing? Or could I bypass the compressor pulley and just run my power steering with a shorter belt? Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
  • on the front disk brakes there are two metal collars with expandable rubber boots on each end that the bolt go through which hold the caliper on. the top one, on each side of the car, can easily be slid in and out so that i can relube it. however the bottom one on both sides of the car do not move more than just a little bit in and out. what is the secret to get the lower collars to move. have already soaked then in PB blaster.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    If this is the setup:
    there's probably corrosion in the bores of the calipers pinching the rubber bushings inward on the slide pins. Remove the calipers, work the bushings out, clean out any corrosion in the bores, coat the bores with silicone grease, then reassemble. Should be good to go.
  • I'm not looking at the pro engine now, but if eliminating the a/c compressor does not eliminate the tensioning mechanism of the belt, a shorter one circumventing the a/c should work. As far as a test, you might try removing the belt and turning the a/c pulley by hand to gauge resistance or spinning it with a motor [drill?] to detect any improper noise.
  • When my '91 Protege LX has sat a day or so, it will just die after going three or four miles. It will not start although the engine turns over as normal and dash lights are normal. I've pushed and pulled every wire I think around the engine.
    Wait five minutes and it starts and then runs fine. And I can stop and start it without problem. Only when it sits for a day or so will I have the same problem.
    Today it died. To experiment a little, I squirted some starter fluid into the air cleaner and it ran for a few seconds and stopped. I did that three times. Then after 5 minutes or so it ran fine. This means it is a fuel problem?
    A helpful mechanic said with something like this he did not know how to figure it out. He said perhaps it could be the igniter or main relay. He said just start replacing things.
    The distributer costs three or four hundred with maybe another hundred to install. I don't want to incur that expense it unless it is bad.
    Can anyone help with this? Thanks in advance,
    Huntington Beach, CA
  • The Protege died again and I tried the starter fluid again and this time it did not work. The engine did not run for a few seconds after getting a shot of starter fluid. Tried and failed at this three times. So this time it appeared to be a spark problem and not a fuel problem.
    So darndest thing - the problem can be either a fuel problem or a spark problem I guess.
    Again, thanks for any help you can provide.

    Huntington Beach, CA
  • Hi Rich,

    I would like to say that i have found the problem, but no luck yet. I have tried replacing the igniter and the distributor. neither worked, luckily i was able to return them both. Distributor was $180and igniter was $100 @ autozone. I was able to return them because they were not the right ones Hint. I am not getting a spark or power to the fuel pump either. If you can jump out the diagnostic box under the hood and the fuel pump should run. As soon as find the problem I will post. I know it will be a simple solution, but I will be darned if i can find it. Scan tool says that any one of the sensors if shorted will shut down the ecm without generating a code or a blown fuse. That is my next step. Check each sensor. Good luck

  • Hi,

    You seem like you may have some imformation that i could use. I am working on a 92 protoge for a friend that has no spark and no fuel. I replaced the igniter, nothing so returned igniter and got a distributor car started ,stalled, and again no spark, luckily i was able to return the distributor. I changed plugs, they were totaly shot, i figure wires are pretty bad to, but whats with the fuel. the pump runs if i jump it from the diagnostic box. I am sure it will be an easy fix, but have been unable to locate. Have you had this problem? Thanks for reading

  • 11b33t11b33t Posts: 51
    Anyone ever need to lube the tracks for their seat belts? My 91 Pro has the passive restraint system and being in the desert for 7+ years may have aged the lube in the tracks. OK operation when its warm but cold weather makes the belts move like pond water! Any tips on a good lube/grease?
  • Miss fire on my 2001 Protege LX 2.0 I have had a month of trouble with the CEL coming on and a miss fire on two of the cylinders. Have had the fuel system cleaned by two different mechanics. Also have had a ignition coil changes and also a catalytic converter replaced. Have tried diffent kinds and brands of gas, plugs look OK and plug wires look OK. any help on this one??
  • juerjuer Posts: 2
    I first started having fan blower problems 2 summers ago. The fan would stop working for a bit than jump back on. The A/C worked fine as exhibited by the fact that the car would cool down when I was driving at fast speeds. Last winter the fan popped back on and worked until last summer. Again, all this summer the fan would pop on and off. The fan would die and remain dead for longer periods of time than the previous summer. Now that winter has started the fan has died again. It very rarely pops back on. I have found this to be worse than a fan not working in the summer! Heat is a bit more essential than AC! Similar to the summer situation, the heater itself seems to works fine. If I am going fast on the highway, heat pushes its way through. I would greatly appreciate any advice you could offer about the origin of this problem.
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    Have you tried a Mazda garage? Did you have a scan done?
  • mdaffronmdaffron Posts: 4,421
    Any help on this one?

    Yep. Change your plug wires.

  • I just started having the same problem in my 2001 protege. The fan will work in the 4 postion but not the 1,2,or 3. I'm not sure if it is electrical with the acutal fan or the switch itself. If you find out any info please let me know. Thanks, Tiz7070
  • I own a 99 protege and during some bad weather I slid into a 3ft stone wall only going about 5mph. :blush: The car is fine except for a cracked front drivers lens and a crack in the bumper. The weird thing is that my windshield wipers quit working. I checked the fuses and that's not it. I also checked and there is nothing blocking the wiper arms. Does anyone have any suggestions. I would greatly appreciate them. Thanks
  • mdaffronmdaffron Posts: 4,421
    Did you try them for more than a few seconds? There's a protection feature built into the wiper circuit in case of overload (e.g. if they're frozen to the windshield when you turn them on, etc.). I got to experience it on my 2000 Protege unintentionally last winter. Once you try them and they don't work due to the protection feature, it will be about a minute -- maybe two -- before they resume operating normally. (And you can't just leave the wiper switch in the "on" position and wait for them to start back up -- they have to be switched off, wait a few minutes, and switched back on again.)

    Just a suggestion in case you tried to get them to work for only a few seconds. If this isn't the case, I have no idea what's up with your wipers.

  • is there now they are at a loss as what to do as the engine computer says multi fire missfire. It does not act up on a regular basis so they are driving it every morning to see if it does it. Is the scan you mention the read out of the engine computer?
  • Done that...they called it an ignition coil and charged $130 but i double checked that the plug wires were included and they said yes.
  • I had a problem with the A/C cutting in and out on speed # 2 with my 2002 LX. The dealer replaced the fan module under warranty in the spring and I haven't had any problems since. They said there was a service bulletin on it. I did have to go back to have the cable adjusted because it wasn't getting as cold as before.
  • juerjuer Posts: 2
    My problem is a bit different, as I either have NO fan our a fan that works on all four settings. However, in my blog searches for answers to my problems, I often came across descriptions similar to yours. According to multiple sites, your problem is with the blower resistor. On one site, a person with a 2001 took their car to the Mazda dealer and they replaced it parts and labor for $60. I would go in with this knowledge and not let them take you for much money.
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    computer says multi fire missfire. It does not act up on a regular basis so they are driving it every morning to see if it does it. Is the scan you mention the read out of the engine computer?
    Yes. It sounds like a multiple cylinder misfire (P0300). Not being a mechanic I can only surmise the problem is happening in several cylinders and your mechanic is trying to detect which of the four cylinders are affected. What are its symptoms (sluggishness, strange noises, etc.)? Did it start happening recently?
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