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Honda Accord Problems 2000-2005



  • klrssklrss Posts: 25
    true! I got a new bulb and that fixed it...on to the next issue! Thanks!
  • haefrhaefr Posts: 600
    Fuel injected cars use an electric fuel pump which is most often located inside the fuel tank (leastways on any fuel injected car I've ever owned). What you found may really be the inline fuel filter. (Hondas are just "different" enough that I can't say that with absolute certainty, though.) In principle the filter is easy to replace. In practice there're a lot of ways to mess things up for someone unfamiliar with opening pressurized systems containing very flamable liquids. You might want to have someone knowledgeable diagnose the ticking noise and deal with it - a snoot or an eyefull of gasoline is not a pleasant experience.
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    agree with that.

    the poster can see what Edmunds recommends by going here:

    and choosing Maintenance and answering the questions.

    At 30K, if the vehicle is an Automatic, I would suspect a Transmission Fluid replacement, Oil and Filter, Engine Air Filter, and checking the brake system (among others), including a tire rotation if that hasn't been done in a while.

    The stuff being quoted seems rather odd to me.
  • haefrhaefr Posts: 600
    "1) Engine Flush Using Bilstein Cleaners and filtering machine"

    A crock if you've practiced timely oil changes according to your owner's manual schedule.

    "2)Clean carbon from intake manifuld, comdustion chambers and valves"

    Probably a crock unless you're experiencing drivability problems. ALL fuel sold in the U.S. contains detergent additives to prevent just this problem in the combustion chambers. Detergents in the motor oil do likewise for the intake valves. There's no source to permit entry of carbon into the intake manifold unless you've got leaky valves - not very likely on a three or four year old car unless you're experiencing drivability problems.

    "3)Clean deposits from Throttle Plate and Throttle Body"

    There shouldn't be any unless your air filter is leaking or torn.

    "4)3 year brake fluid replacement"

    Not a bad idea, but an independent shop can do this in 15 minutes and probably for a LOT less than the dealership (gag, choke) will charge you.

    "5)Tires Balance (all four)"

    Again, go to a tire shop and save some money. They have the same computer balance machines and they use 'em a lot more so they're probably better qualified to do the job right.

    "6)Battery replace *Half left*"

    Well, if it took three or four years to half deplete, you theoretically have another two or three years left. Theoretically. In practice it may be time, so, given the age of the battery, get a second opinion from a real auto electrical guy. He can do a load test to verify whether the battery is depleted and incapable of holding a full charge. He, or one of the national retailer chains such as WalMart, can sell you a better battery, with a longer warranty, for a lot less money than the dealership (gag, cough) will charge you for what amounts to a minimum service battery, too.

    My opinion? You're probably being suckered by a disreputable dealership (cough, gag) "service" department under the gun to turn revenue.
  • Don't know about you, but I would be finding a new dealer, or reputable independent shop, specializing in Honda or Japanese Designed Autos.REAL FAST !!!!!!!!
  • haefrhaefr Posts: 600
    Agree. Sadly a superior car from a technologically advanced manufacturer doesn't guarantee equally superlative service at the dealership (choke, gag) level.
  • I agree with everyone else. In the Wash. DC area you can find plenty of good shops and reputable mechanics to do that kind of work. A battery is something that will give you real evidence of impending failure. A can of Chevron fuel system cleaner (techron)will remove the carbon and other deposits(it works). I've never heard a shop be so bold as to suggest engine cleaner after only 30K miles. Get out of their realm fast.
  • They just called me and said the rattling over bumps was caused by my front right strut. He said there was no fluid, and that I should get the left done also or there would be problems. PLUS I need an alignment and he said some other things I did not understand. Total bill: $483 Does this sound high? I decided not to take it to the Honda dealership because I was afraid it would be too high. What are your thoughts?
  • Hey chuck03 that would be nice if you could e-Mail a picture to Thanks
  • elbianelbian Posts: 10
    My 2001 Accord EX does the same thing, vent button set to floor and some air comes out of the dash. I think it is designed that way with no known fix other than to close the dash vent when the floor vent button is used. I have gotten used to it since it warms your hands up a bit on extremely cold days.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 57,375
    After reading the mumbo-jumbo list, I still think flushing the brake fluid every 3 years is the only really necessary maintenance item you should seriously consider having done.

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  • altair4altair4 Posts: 1,469
    Agreed. Short of having any sort of drivability issues, the list is pretty much just blatant "upselling." Stick with the Honda maintenance schedule in your owner's manual and you'll have the car for ten years or 150,000 miles, or more.
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    if an A/T - at 30K, I think a transmission fluid flush would take priority over changing the brake fluid. just my humble opinion (and what i prioritized in an '02 at 30K).

  • snukesnuke Posts: 81
    I have a 2000 automatic V6 Accord with 56,000 miles. I have not had any automatic transmission problems so far. Does anyone feel I have passed the danger zone for transmission problems or does the possibility still exist I stand a good chance of having the same transmission problems so many others have experienced?
  • bbtacobbtaco Posts: 15
    The transmission in our 99 V6 Accord went out at 72,000 miles. We had the transmission fluid changed at the dealer at 30 and 60,000 miles. We had also complained about a shudder from the transmission between 30-40 mph since it had about 20-25,000 miles on it. They had records of our complaints. Honda gave us a rebuilt transmission with a 3 year 36,000 mile warranty on it. But we had to pay approximately $400 for the labor. I believe the 2000 to 2001 Accords had a warranty extension on the transmissions. Here is some information.Accord transmission
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 57,375
    Why would you want to flush the automatic trans at such low miles? It should look pretty pristine in there I would guess....well maybe a filter swap and drain the pan, okay but I wouldn't bother hooking it up to a flushing machine.

    Brake fluid flush is darn near MANDATORY in 3 years in my book anyway.

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  • md55md55 Posts: 3
    Hi everyone. We own a 99 accord and for the past 2 winters, the e-brake light comes on when ever the weather outside gets cold (below freezing tempterature). There seems to be no problems with the breaks and when we bring it in for tune ups the dealer doesn't say anything about break fluids being low. We had it checked out once when the light wasn't on and they said they couldn't find anything wrong. So I was wondering what can be causing this?
  • klrssklrss Posts: 25
    Well, thats is interesting...but also a relief that I dont have to tear apart the dash to figure it out. Thanks for the reply!
  • elbianelbian Posts: 10
    It takes a little time to get used to it. I hated it at first but when it is bitter cold out it does help to have a bit of warm air blowing on your hands.
  • jml5jml5 Posts: 1
    This is happening to my 2004 Accord EX V6, I have had the dealer look into this a couple of times, but they can't find anything unless it isn't working at that minute. I am at a loss and upset over this. I always found Honda to be so reliable and now I am thinking of selling and finding something else. If you find a solution, please share.
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    Shifty, good point, and I respect that and stand corrected w.r.t. changing the brake fluid! Thank you.

    I tend to follow a "severe" (as opposed to "normal") schedule because of Atlanta traffic (lots of idling and stop and go on the highway) and also the temperatures of summer.

    For the Severe Schedule, the manual maintenance schedule suggests:
    Brake fluid is recommended to be replaced every 3yrs, independant of mileage. (Same as Normal Schedule)

    AT Transmission fluid is recommended to be replaced every 60K or three years, then every 30K or 2 years. (For the Normal Schedule: 120K miles or 6yrs, and 90K miles or 5 years)...

    That said, I purchased the vehicle used with almost 30K miles. I had it inspected by an independant shop specializing in Honda vehicles. He recommended every 30K, and also since I didn't know the prior driving history...thought it made sense. I can tell you without a shadow of doubt that the vehicle shifted much much better following the service.

    I wanted to be documented if the transmission ever developed a problem.

    Lastly, I did this service because Edmunds maintenance schedule recommended it. ;)

    Has Honda modified their schedule for the 4-cyl AT?
  • As far as I know, the only thing that triggers the e-brake light is the brake handle itself. Try setting-releasing the brake a few times, my guess the switch is sticking.

  • rfrfrfrf Posts: 31
    I received my copy faxed from Honda itself. I do not have it in my possession at the time of this reply, but it has been refered to in prior posts and it can be located by running a search with the relevent terms on the web.

    I love my Accord - it is the best auto I have owned to date - in many ways, but this ABS mechanical/credibility issue affects the experience.

    I feel a lack of integrity from the dealerships. This is funny, as in strange, just like when the absolute best purchase price I got from EVERY dealership I went to when shopping was the same ... to the DOLLAR!!!
  • I have a 1991 Honda Accord. Every time I fill the windshield washer Reservoir it drains all over the driveway. Either !) a hose is loose, 2) a hose is holed, 3) the Reservoir has a leak.

    Short of dismantling the entire car, can anyone provide direction as to what needs to be removed to get access to the Reservoir / hoses?

  • joe122joe122 Posts: 68
    "I was stuck in NYC rush hour traffic with a relatively new car that would not start with no apparent explanation or cause."

    This is something that just happened to me. I have a 2005 Accord LX that was purchased on 5/1/05. The morning it happened, the car would not start in my garage. I assumed that the battery was bad or low and started the car with a portable starter kit. The engine started immediately, but the dash display had an odd look and the headlight indicator flashed on and off with a loud ticking sound. Also, the visor and map lights/dome light flickered when turned on. I did not use the headlights or air-conditioner.

    After jumping the car, I tried to drive to the dealer to have the problem checked. I never made it. Within a few minutes, the engine simply stopped. I got out and jumped it again. This time, I only got 50 feet before the engine shut down. Try to imagine, if you will, me pushing my 6 month old Accord (with 7100 miles) through rush-hour traffic on US 1 in South Florida. If not for help from a couple of road Samaritans, I would never have succeeded. The irony is that I purchased a Japanese car specifically to avoid such an occurrence. I drove Toyota's for 20 years and never, ever had a starting problem. At least with a weak battery, it should be possible to jump the car and have the engine run until you reach your destination.

    Calling Honda Roadside Assistance from my cell phone got me a tow to the dealer (to the tune of $89 plus tip). After two hours of getting readouts and testing, they determined that there was a short in one of the battery cells. The dealer said that the on-board computer is programmed to detect shorts and respond by shutting the engine off. After replacing the battery, they tested the alternator output, ran some other tests and then pronounced the problem resolved.

    Unfortunately, the problem is NOT resolved. For now, the car is running fine, but there is nothing in place to prevent a reoccurrence. A problem with the battery somewhere down the road could result in another shut down scenario. In hot, humid, South Florida, car batteries have notoriously short lives.

    I consider this problem to be extremely dangerous and worrisome. If this occurs in some backwater, late at night, or on a limited access highway, the consequences could be dire.
  • md55md55 Posts: 3
    That is odd, we never use the e-brake and it only happens in the winter time. I was thinking the cold weather may have affected the wirings and turned the light on? Can that happen?
  • bobstbobst Posts: 1,783
    Hey Joe, if the car is now running fine why do you say the problem is not resolved?

    Life is full of things to worry about. If you are worried about the car breaking down again, then carry some survival stuff with you and maybe even a firearm. If the car breaks down at night, at least you ain't gonna freeze in South Florida.

    Make sure you have cell phone service that works in rural areas and always carry two cell phones in case one breaks down.
  • My bet is the cold weather is somehow affecting the switch. Things tend to shrink when cold, and if the switch has problems, it may never have returned to it's full open position (contacts inside very close).

    Cycle it many times.

    There may be something else wrong, but ya got to start somewhere, and this would be a good start.

  • dmertdmert Posts: 19
    I have a intermittent front end noise and cannot get it fixed because I cannot replicate the noise for my dealer. Seems to occur best, after driving over a bumpy part of the road. Sounds similiar to a flat tire that is still moving, but the tire is still inflated. The problem is that it eventually goes away, and after parking the car and returning to the car, the noise is gone. I did have my power steering unit replaced earlier. I wonder if there is any connection.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 57,375
    It shouldn't be that hard to access the reservoir and pull it out. Sometimes you can epoxy the crack in the plastic jug but that's a 50-50 bet. Sometimes the leak is the gasket around the little electric pump. Best to take it out and test it in the sink.

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