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Dodge Dakota Fuel Pump/Fuel System Questions
bambuild10
Member Posts: 1
in Dodge
have a 1999 dodge dakota v8 5.2 fuel pump wouldn't turn off when you shut the truck off unless you unhooked battery got the point where fuel pump wouldn't even turn on checked relays and all fuses replaced the fuel pump and still turn on the key and don't hear fuel pump come on and truck will not start. can some please help
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dakota's 4.7 engine?
in Atlanta
A brass barbed splice I had was 0.285" so even worse (won't fit into the tube).
I'd now like to remove the piece (~30" long) from the pump to the end of the metal tube that rides the chassis forward. Then, what are the chances I can find a piece of standard gas 1/4" line to replace?
Or, assuming I can get an actual replacement line from the Dodge dealership, how difficult would it be to replace?
Do I absolutely need the "Tool No. C-4124, or equivalent" to loosen/tighten the fuel line fitting at the pump?
I'd appreciate any thoughts on this.
Tommy
Follow the fuel line along the length of the body. If you see a canister looking device, it is probably an in-line filter. Or consult a Dodge dealer. They should be able to tell you right away.
Regards,
Dusty
"Repairing/replacing fuel line at pump - '97 Dakota 2WD"
Somehow, the subject morphed into:
"in line fuel filter 1995 Dakota V6"
Unfortunately I never got any practical/useful replies on my original post but, having now made the repair using brute force methods, I can report the following:
Aside from the hassle of removing the very thin-walled plastic tube that connects the fuel pump outlet to the metal tube that runs along the chassis forward to the engine compartment, the Dodge dealership wanted ~$45 for a new one and it was to be special order! I would never recommend this route.
The best approach is as follows:
1) Remove the left rear wheel and place the axle on a block.
2) Realize that the space (about 10:00) behind that left rear is difficult to access, and lighting will be scant. If you can morph yourself into Mighty Mouse, that would be a huge advantage.
3) For the lighting problem, I do not recommend an incandescent work light (sparks = explosion); us a B&D snakelight or similar.
4) Release the clip from the fitting at the pump outlet and pull off the tube. Using a sharp utility knife, cut the tubing from the metal line along chassis, remove this tube and make sure the exposed metal ends are clean of residual (plastic) tubing pieces.
5) Understand that - sadly - Dodge decided to make the OD of the metal pump outlet be 0.375" (~3/8"), while making the OD for the metal tube that rides along the chassis 0.320" (~5/16"). This disconformity is bizarre and senseless!
6) Go to a hardware store & purchase 1' of 5/16" high-pressure line, 1' of 3/8" ID hp fuel line, and a 3/8" nylon barbed hose mender.
7) Attach the mender to both hose pieces (you may need to hold the end of the 5/16" hose in scalding hot water to press over the 3/8" mender). Secure these ends w/ a hose clamp on each side of the mender.
8) Place the other end of the 3/8" hose in scalding hot water w/ a bit of dish detergent (for lubrication) for 2-3 minutes. Slide a small hose clamp over it and quickly and with aggressive turning motion, fit the heated end onto the pump outlet. Note that this outlet has a raised collar for attaching the fitting you just removed. The presence of this collar will require an agonizing effort to force the 3/8" hose over it and all the way in to the pump body (~7/8"). If you don't reach the pump body w/ the end of the hose, pull it off, reheat/lube, and try again. Once you get it, slide a hose clamp up near the pump body (over the outlet) and tighten. The best tool is a nutdriver w/ 12" long handle. (Once you try this, you'll see exactly why I suggested a tool like this.)
9) Slice a small hose clamp over the 5/16" end of the hose and and slide the hose a few inches over the end of the metal tube that runs along the chassis. (You probably won t really need to heat/lube this part of the hose.) Slide the hose clamp over this joint and secure.
10) Start the engine and check for leaks.
Finally, I'll answer the question that seems to have been floating around on what became of my post. NO, positively and assuredly, there are NO in-line filters on the Dakota. The one and only filter is inside the fuel tank, and that brainless Chrysler design is why it's such a colossal chore to replace it (should you ever - God forbid - need to). You gotta remove the tank!
Which points up a possible modification to my steps 6&7 above, You may choose this unfortunate event to use, instead of a nylon mender, an actual in-line fuel filter and get 2 birds w./ one stone. In this way you splice the 2 hose pieces and enhance the filtration.
Hope this helps.
TommyCee
Just for the record, Chrysler wasn't the first to go to in-tank filters, nor are they alone. Everything from Ford, GM and Toyota use the same design, and I think most of them do, actually. My neighbor just had the fuel module (aka fuel filter) replaced on his 87 Accord.
I'm not sure why the manufacturers have gone to this design. My guess is that an in-line filter represents a potential safety hazard under some conditions. And a cartridge filter design might be impractical for some high pressure systems.
Best regards,
Dusty
AND the dealer review 3 times the truck and the last time they change the gascap for a new one, but 2 days after change again, I still having the same problem
Also, if the incorrect fuel cap is used you will get a fault.
Regards,
Dusty
I notice last week, that it suddenly started taking a few more cranks of the starter to start my truck, then I just notice today gas dripping from my fuel line half way up the chassis. Line has some much rust on it it's a wonder it didn't blow apart altogether. Well anyway I need to repair/replace it. Can I use rubber fuel line and clamps to splice it. I'll need to cut away the bad section. Any ideas? Thks in advance.
Thank You
Bob
Now I have fuel in the oil and in the tailpipe please help
then its probably the ecm under the disturbter'
the copper tube prevents the plastic pipe from crushing the noeprine hose is what makes it leak proof
Thanks
Ray
I tried switching out the relay, which fixed the problem for about four seconds.
Any suggestions?
Any advice thanks!!
which is controlled by the PCM (power control module)/engine management
computer. Assuming the fuses are good, the fuel pump relay controls fuel
delivery to the fuel rail/injectors. (normal operating pressure is 45-50 psi)
If the engine is running, pulling the fuel pump relay will stop the fuel pump
(located in fuel tank) from running and once the pressure in the fuel rail
bleeds down to less than 25 psi, the fuel injectors will stop working and
the engine dies being starved of fuel.
Assumption here is that your V8 is similar to mine and has the same
control circuits.
The ASD (auto shutdown relay) will kill the injectors, and ignition coil.
It is controlled by the PCM. The check engine light will probably come on.
For the ASD relay to NOT operate..all sensors need to be functional.
For the ASD relay to operate any one of the Critical sensors indicating
some kind of fault to the PCM (camshaft or crankshaft) . The PCM
will de-energize both the both the fuel pump relay and the ASD relay.
is in the fuel pump module
to drop the fuel tank (and it needs to be partially empty), but getting at the filter
pressure regulator is a real chore. I wanted to change my fuel filter and was
told by a couple of aftermarket parts places.."no listing on that item".
So in essence, you have to wait until the fuel filter clogs up or buy a complete
new fuel pump module for several hundred dollars.
Very stupid engineering..Dodge/Chrysler!