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GMC Yukon Start Stall Idle Problems



  • I just re-read your issues and looks like you have a a major short from the headlights that shorted out the "Brains/Computer" or the different control modules that controls the seats, locks, wipers, anti level, etc.. My question to you is how does a tail light crumble and fall out unless you were rear ended and never got them fix? Am I right?
  • harvest2012harvest2012 Posts: 1
    edited September 2012
    My Yukon cut off on me while i was driving. It started and i had it in park and it won't start. I have tried to start it but it's not turning. It will crank but it won't catch! I was on the interstate going about 75 when it cut off. Someone please help me....
  • Good morning harvest2012,

    We're sorry to hear that your Yukon is having this problem. Have you been able to get it somewhere since your last post? If you are working with a GM dealership on getting this resolved, please let us know as we're happy to check into the progress there (we can be reached by email at [email protected]).

    Sarah, GM Customer Service
  • sguildsguild Posts: 1
    edited October 2012
    I have a 2001 Yukon. Yesterday when I got to my lunch meeting I turned off my truck, got out, and I realized the engine was still running.

    I have an aftermarket remote start, but I have been able to isolate with about 95% certainty that this is not the issue...

    I was able to kill the vehicle by disconnecting a fuse, but when I re-start it the issue is still there...

    Anybody ever seen this before?

    Thanks in advance for any advice...
  • lowielowie Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Yukon that will start cold immediately (-20c without being plugged in) but once its warm is slow to fire up. Did you ever find a solution to your similar problem
  • hi my yukon did that yesterday so i was wondering what did you answer did you find out about it?
  • jpd9668jpd9668 Posts: 4
    Just read about your problem. I know this is somewhat late, but my 2008 Denali has failed to start on numerous occasions. I initially thought it was battery, but day after putting in new battery, same think happened. I put old battery back in and returned new battery. Dealer checked it over. Mechanic there told me that the relay/fuse box on firewall where battery/starter cables are connected may need cleaning and tightening. He did this and all was well for a few weeks then occurred again. Went back and he said that GM had informed him that there were issues with the battery cables. I replaced the positive cable (expensive) and no issues for three months. Just recurred this week, have just replaced negative cable. We'll wait and see. I think the next thing will be the fuse (120 amp)/relay on firewall (don't know official name of it). Hope this helps. What is the status with your issues? Have you resolved?
  • wpkendigwpkendig Posts: 6
    I sent an email to the GM rep on this forum Saturday and am awaiting a reply. Same boat with power cutting out periodically over the past week. Bought it used and almost got a year out of it without problems (other than door locks which were already failed upon purchase). I don't mind paying for the cables but would rather not be raped for the labor on a known issue. I'll update this week when all's said and done so others know what they're in for.
  • I have a 2007 GMC Yukon, when we start the engine the idle ranges from 500 to 1,000 rpm, bouncing up and down. When we start to drive it, the traction control turns off then it says to check the traction control system and finally the Check engine light turns on. The idle problem continues through all of this. Then the engine has even stalled on occasion. been to the dealer 3 times now. And today is the 4th time! any suggestions???
  • Can you please help? (I have an 04 yukon w/5.3 engine) my vehicle has just started doing this...the vehicle takes several cranks and I have to be depress the gas pedal several times before it starts the vehicle does backfire and Boggs out and dies before it starts fully...after it does start the vehicle does run excellent. When I did take the vehicle to a local automotive parts store cause the engine light came on it read that the o2 sensors were bad I replaced ALL 4 and it did nothing to fix the problem. Also the abs light and brake light come on simultaneously every other day
  • bjc461bjc461 Posts: 1
    edited September 2013
    We have only owned our Yukon for 7 months and in the beginning it would stall here and there which we didn't think was a big deal. Now its stalling all the time. We stop try to go and it wont go and jerks you around like crazy. You hit the gas and the RPM go up all the way. We have brought it into a GMC dealership twice.

    1st time in dealership: they said it needed a computer update and new spark plug on the engine. So they did that. Mention hybrid battery needed to be replaced and engine wasn't firing. They could not duplicate the stalling issue so they would not fix the battery and told us to bring it back when it happens again.

    2nd time dealership: About 4 days later it does it again but this time it wont stop. Jerking the high RPMs and stalling constantly. Take it back to the dealership and they cannot seem to duplicate again. GM tells us we will not authorize any fixes on the car until the car computer spits out an authorized code for the problem.

    I am at a loss as to what to do. We paid a lot of money for this piece of junk and all we want is a working car. We are almost up on our warranty and I believe GM is doing their best to make sure we wear it out so we would have to cover the costs.

    Read on other forums it is the battery system that is causing the problem, also read GM does their best not to fix it since it is costly! Figures another greedy company that wont cover its own flaws

    any advice
  • Hello - I am hoping you can all help us!

    Driving a 400 mile trip our 2001 yukon service engine light popped on. Continued driving it for 60 miles (middle of no where, middle of night), nothing. Started it up fine the next day, 40 miles into drive it began 'chugging', as though it were a fuel filter. Fast forward to today, ran the code, emission code - reset that and didn't come back on. Added fuel additive, seemed great. I go to pull out of the driveway and it died. Wouldn't start - would do the initial turn over but wouldn't fire. Hubby had me turn the key without turning it on and decided it was a fuel pump. Borrowed a vehicle, went and bought one, he replaced

    NOTHING! still won't start adn the fuel gauge won't is though it is still out of gas?! Anyone have any suggestions? Please? Let's start with the easiest/cheapest first cause let me tell you, I can not take any more 'kick you when your down' blows this evening!

    Thank you~
  • Figured it out!! searched and searched and finally pulled the ECM-B fuse...

    YEAH!!! fuse was blown!

    replaced it, turned key and gas gauge jumped up and instantly could hear the fuel pump working.

  • wasaewasae Posts: 1
    I've gmc Yukon XL 2008 I just bought it from auction so when I try to start, it won't start and there is no light on the dash board except the check engine light. I check all fuses,fuel, relays, spur-plugs and I changed the starter, too but won't start it just crank. So if u ve any idea about this kind of problem Pleasee
  • The most common type of failure in the CPI 'Spider' Fuel Injector System is usually fuel leaks (inside the Intake Manifold Plenum).
    But, every now and then, instead of leaking fuel, the 'Spider' Fuel Injector Assembly won't spray any Fuel into the Engine Cylinders.
    When this happens, you'll see one of the following:
    One or two (at the most) Cylinders are affected.
    This leads to a Misfire Condition and usually specific Cylinder Misfire Trouble Codes.
    The entire 'Spider' assembly stops injecting fuel.
    When this happens, the vehicle Cranks but doesn't Start.
  • I have a 1999 gmc Yukon first off the fuel filters in these vehicles need to be replaced often . there's a 50 percent chance that you have a bad ground wire for your fuel pump or a bad fuel pump is also a cause of your truck not starting . The other 50% of the time its a oil pressure switch needs to be replaced. this is the case foremost 1993-2012 gmc trucks from jimmy's, Tahoes ,Suburbans, and Yukons. Alot of times these things don't always show up on a diagnostic test. There are ways to test and find out . Look up scannerdanner onYouTube.
  • I think I might be able to help some of you. I bought a used 2002 Denali with 130k miles.I started having the stalling issue within the first couple weeks of owning it. It would stall about every 2 weeks when approaching a stop light, stop sign or sitting idle. It would always restart within a minute. Problem was that it always happened while my wife was driving it. The last time it would not restart. I had to meet her and push it to the side of the road. I had it be towed to the dealership and they called me the next day and told me that it was the fuel pump and it was going to be $1300+. I got them to drop it down to $1250 if they didn't replace the fuel pump which I had already done. I was shocked at the price. I just replaced the fuel pump on my '69 cougar for $20. That's not progress. Anyways, I had to have the work done after they promised me that this would cure my stalling issue. We'll a few weeks later I was driving it and it stalled in a drive-thru. I had to have the staff help push me out of line. While sitting there I noticed that the dummy light was on for low fuel even though I knew I had 3/4 of a tank. I also noticed that all my gauges were dead. So I knew it was something electrical. I removed the key so I didn't kill the battery. After a few minutes I put the key back in and all the gauges came back and it started. I was about 5 minutes from the dealership so I headed there. It died about 4-5 times on the way there and each time I stopped, removed the key, put the key back and it would restart.I was leaving town so I told the dealership they would have it for a week. Well a week went by and they could not reproduce the problem and they were hinting to me that they wanted me to take it back. That's when I started doing my research and found this webpage. I forwarded it to them, I asked them if they did some of the things that were mentioned here. I had to tell them to just leave it running until it occurred. They seemed to care less. Finally after a week and a half before they finally got it to happen again. A few days after that they diagnosed the problem. They said it was the PCM board. They said they were getting faulty readings from it when it stalled. So I spent another $600 for a replacement. This was with a discount for their charging me $1300 for a fuel pump that might not of needed to be replaced. The good news if that it has not stalled since. It has been about 3 months w/o stalling. Boy do I miss my Expedition.

  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 11,077

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  • yukonmanyukonman Posts: 1
    Fixed. I had the same issue of stalling. It seemed to happen on left turns at idle. Mechanic said this is a common problem. Something comes lose and causes the wiring that runs down behind the power steering to get snagged. They had to pull it out and splice wires. It's Fixed!! This is after I cleaned the throttle body and MAF then replaced the CAM sensor, Crank sensor and TPS.
  • My wife's 2005 Yukon has been dieing at stop signs, but would always start right back up and run fine. Then the problem progressed to dieing while driving down the road, but would always start back up. Now, it's finally got to the point where it won't start at all, and no one can figure out what's wrong with it. Has anyone else had a similar problem? I've read posts where people had similar problems, and sunk hundreds of dollars into their vechicle only to continue having the same problems, which is what I'm hoping not to do.
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