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2010 Toyota Camry



  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    SOP....The "wave" of the future...?

    CVT will always yeild the best FE so the closer, the more gear ratios a tradintional gearbox has the closer it can come to a CVT's FE. Fuel Cut, total and complete fuel cut, during coastdown periods, is now the "standard". Remove your foot from the gas pedal and as long as there is enough forward momentum to keep the engine turning over with ZERO fuel that's the way it works. Once that momentum declines below the needed level fuel flow will begin again and then you will likely feel a slight "lurch" forward, reduced/lowered engine braking, as a result.
  • smarty666smarty666 Posts: 1,503
    Camry, Avalon, and Performance are words that do not belong in the same sentence ever! If you were looking for Performance then your shopping at the wrong automaker!
  • kingfans1kingfans1 Posts: 137
    yes. I always get 32 mpg on my 2006 camry V6. I am agree you say driving style, ad route factor the mileage.. I am very easy on gas, use cruise control, 65 mph highway driving. I mostly use octane 87 shell and chevron..
    please check out my fuelly.
  • smarty666smarty666 Posts: 1,503
    Good call on the Shell and Chevron there. All my vehicles require premium, but I always get Shell Premium for my vehicles only. If I'm on a road trip and no Shell around, I'll get 76 or BP in a pince but try to stick with shell as much as possible!
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    There is NO modern day passenger vehicle engine that REQUIRES premium fuel.

    Recommended, yes, required, NO.
  • kingfans1kingfans1 Posts: 137
    I tried octane 91 on my 2006 camry v6.. mpg is about the same using octane 87...
    octane 91 will give a little power.. But I don't need it.. I am currently getting 32 mpg from octane 87.. even octane 91 will get 33-34 mpg, it is not worth it.
  • smarty666smarty666 Posts: 1,503
    edited May 2010
    You don't have a clue what your talking about! My Maxima and TL require 91 octane or higher! I get 93 since Shell on offers 87, 89, and 93. My Maxima a couple months back got filled with regular by the stupid attendant and the car almost shaked itself to pieces. It idled like crazy, had trouble accelerating, and struggled to run sometimes. So again, you have no idea what your talking about!

    Both lids on my Max and TL say premium fuel required!! So even if it just says recommended or required, and there are plenty that do, you better go in do it. If you going to be a cheap [non-permissible content removed] and not fill it up with premium when its recommended or required then don't get the vehicle! Get a clue will ya! :mad:
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    If your 2006 Camry engine isn't high enough compression to make use of the 91 octane then you're just wasting money, it will NOT give even a smidgen of more power.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    When I picked up my new Porsche 911/996 at the factory I was told that I would not always be able to fuel with preminum throughout my travels in europe but not to worry the engine ECU would adjust the A/F mixture accordingly. Detailed explanation followed when I asked.

    "..almost shaked itself to pieces.."

    Sounds more like contaminated fuel, water, in the fuel.

    The worse that low octane should do, even in an engine that REQUIRES premium fule, is knock/ping during acceleration, maybe even only hard acceleration.
  • smarty666smarty666 Posts: 1,503
    Again, it has nothing to do with contaminated fuel. That is just an excuse your using to justify your ridiculous point. The only time the car got that bad as I explained was on the one single tank that 87 octane gas was put in. There are plenty of passenger vehicles, especially luxury ones, that require premium gas and do not run very good and cause damage when someone, like yourself, puts regular in and not the right premium octane ratings!

    I know a couple of guys sometimes have mixed mid-grade 89 octane in without problems but that was not every tank, only like every 3rd or 4th tank! Everyone who has put 87 regular in either damaged their engines and exhaust system or had problems with noises, terrible rough idling, and decreased fuel economy!

    I'm not saying there are not some vehicles that regular can be use but most needs 91 or higher when its states recommended and/or required and its more to just prevent knocking/pinging on acceleration as you claim.
  • kingfans1kingfans1 Posts: 137
    i don't care it give more power or not.. As far as I know, my camry v6 engine is same as lexus e300.. I am very happy I get 32 mpg using shell or chevron octane 87.

    I do use octane 91 on my 2010 pilot 4wd.
  • smarty666smarty666 Posts: 1,503
    well, as I pointed out to wwest before, most cars that say premium recommended or required means exactly that, you should be using 91 octane or higher; I have found that out in my past experience with Caddy, Infiniti, Acura, and Nissan.

    What you are talking about is a specific exception to the rule, and I assure you it is a minority; the ES has virtually the same identical V6 engine as the Camry does yet Lexus I believe recommends premium fuel; I have read time and time again, of Lexus ES owners over the years, who filled up the first 4-5 tanks with premium just to give it a cleaning and to help during the very initial break in period, but then switch over to 87 octane for the remainder of their ownership with no reduction in mpg, knocking/pinging, acceleration problems, or rough idling. So the ES is a good example with the premium gas exception.
  • ztssztssztssztss Posts: 1

    I think I have the same problem as you do! My windshield fogs up in a rainy or foggy day. Whenever it is humid, the windshield on my Camry becomes foggy. After using RainX and changing wipers, the problem remains. I have 07 Camry, which didn’t have this problem. After the original windshield was replaced by a Toyota OEM one in spring 2009, I started having difficulties driving in rainy or foggy days, especially at night. The visibility significantly reduced when there is incoming traffic. I contacted local Toyota dealer several times and even had a guy works for parts department sit in my car in a rainy day; and I was repeatedly told that it is a normal condition, and my mom’s/aunt’s/uncle’s/friends’ car have the same problem. I also contacted a very reputable local auto glass shop; but the owner, who has twenty year of experiences, wasn’t able to tell my why.
    So I was wondering if you had this problem fixed, or found the cause of this issue?
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    i suspect you're running the A/C while its raining? If so, turn the temperature up to where the air isn't "Cold" but somewhere between "Cool" and "Temperate" and see if you still have that problem.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Exterior windshield fogging, formation of condensation, is ALWAYS the result of the windshield glass surface being TOO COLD, below the dewpoint of the outside atmosphere. Manually switch your HVAC system into heating mode, footwell air outflow only, or combined heating cooling mode, footwell & dash air airflow, in order to allow some level of "heating" to the interior windshield surface.

    To combat the discomfort of "coolish" system airflow to the face and upper body in cooling mode some folks will route the airflow to the defrost/defog/demist air outlets....

    BIG mistake.

    That will only help to CHILL the windshield and make it more likely to fog over.

    Some of the newer automatic climate control systems, european/Bosch systems mostly, at doing this automatically in order to make the cool air outflow more evenly spread and thus less discomforting. In which case you must manually close the windshield deforst/defog/demist outlets.

    There are a few C-BEST options that impinge on this area that you might want to check out with the dealer.
  • dookie84dookie84 Posts: 33
    ntassistant -

    I have a 2010 4 cyl Camry. I'm not sure about the rollback thing, but if I don't really baby the accelerator when going from a full stop, it lurches forward. I have learned to accept and adapt to it. Same thing in reverse. If I park on an incline - front downwards - I can't get it going in reverse without a lurch. Extremely annoying and alarming.
    I love everything else about the car. It has the quietest, most comfortable ride of the mid size sedans, which is why I bought it. That and how well my old Toyotas (92 Camry and 94 Corolla) have held up. I still have both. The old Camry still rides like a dream.

    If your Avalon annoys you, I wouldn't buy a new Camry. I'm very sad to say this.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    edited June 2010
    Have you taken it to the dealership for a gas pedal replacement? Sounds like that should be fixable.
  • dookie84dookie84 Posts: 33
    I did have the pedal replaced. No help that I've noticed, I'm afraid. Thanks though.
    I hardly hear about anyone else having this problem. The mechanic from the dealer said he didn't notice anything when I had him drive it. I should have told him to step on the gas as if he needed some sudden speed. That's when it's really noticeable. I think it's a quirk in my car. I'm no lead foot but occasionally you need some get up and go. I still love the car, mostly for the comfortable and quiet ride. I have occasionally forgotten to turn off the car when I leave it because it's so quiet - I have the Smart Key. The car, whose name is Christine after the car in the Stephen King book, does let me know when I take the key out of range.
  • dookie84dookie84 Posts: 33
    Running the A/C in the rain turned to a warm temperature has worked for me too.
    It seems odd but it works well. The A/C keeps the air in the car dry.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    edited June 2010
    Running the HVAC system at a "warm" temperature and in a setting/mode (footwell or combined footwell/windshield) that "washes" the inside of the windshield with the "warmish" airflow will do the job very adequately.

    Use of the A/C will have absolutely no positive effect on th exterior of the windshield other than COOLING it down to the dewpoint (the temperature at which condensation begins) of the outside atmosphere.

    Every time I got out of the cooled car cabin in Tampa last week my eyeglasses would immediately fog over.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    Use of the A/C will have absolutely no positive effect on th exterior of the windshield other than COOLING it down to the dewpoint (the temperature at which condensation begins) of the outside atmosphere.

    But it'll prevent it on the interior.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    "...But it'll prevent it on the interior.."

    Not nearly as reliably as HEATING the interior surface of the windshield, and KEEPING it HEATED.

    The A/C can only work for cabin airflow dehumidification if mother nature, whimsical mother nature, deems it so. Additionally, with the use of A/C only for dehumidification you will often be left, sometimes days after, with sudden windshield fogging as a result.

    When you switch the A/C off that condensate remaining on the roughly 10,000 square inches of the evaporator vane surface area can later act as a MOISTURE BOMB, rapidly humidifying the cabin atmosphere and condensing on an interior windshield surface already below the dewpoint.
  • just bought a new 2010 camry, pretty happy with it and getting 30+ average MPG for 2.5L, automatic, amazing:

    two questions

    1) the 'handle' inside the door seem to be made of two separate piece of material, and there is a gap between them, so if I hold the handle tight it feels like it pinches or squeezes my hand or finger, this is really annoying to me. I look at all four doors, and the 'handle' all seem to have a small gap.. does you camry do that???

    2) when is a good time to do first oil change, should I wait till 5000 miles or is it better earlier during break in of the vehicle?
  • cc62966cc62966 Posts: 30
    I don't recall an issue with the door handles - I am certain all Carmys have the same door handle parts. As for the Oil Change Interval - it was extended by Toyota to 10K miles. I my self asked about getting an oil change done early - break in period and all that, but was told by a number of credible sources that it is not necessary. The engines go through a break in period before install, so there should be no metal shards left when the car is delivered with fresh oil to the customer. However, unlike Honda, the Toyota engine doesn't come with any solvents added to the car from factory - so, if you choose there is nothing preventing you from getting an oil change done early. But, keep in mind that it requires full synthetic 0-20W oil, and a change will cost around $65+. I my self waited till it turned 7.5K to get my first oil change - still the oil on the dip stick looked perfect! Keep in mind that the oil change light will still go off at 5K intervals - check your manual for re-set instructions.
  • because i bought this month, i got a 2 year/25k miles free maintenance from toyota that includes oil change, so I'm taking it to the dealer for the free oil change at 5k miles.

    can you do me a favor and check all 4 of your inside doors, if you squeeze on the 'handle', does it flex? are there a small gap on any of them??
  • dookie84dookie84 Posts: 33
    Did the revised Owners Manual that I received from Toyota after the oil change interval mention that it needs full synthetic oil? I couldn't find it. I did find it pretty funny that under the 5K maintenance schedule it says something like "check floormat".
  • awn7eawn7e Posts: 12
    I saw this 2010 Camry LE for sale. It is exactly the same as mine. But I noticed that my 2010 Camry LE has one tailpipe where this one has two.

    Does anyone know why?
  • cc62966cc62966 Posts: 30
    edited October 2010
    The one on the advertisement is a V6.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    cc62966 is right; that's common on other midsizers as well. I have a V6 Sonata with dual exhausts, but the 4-cylinder has just one. Same for Accord I4 and V6 models.
  • My 2010 SE, a 2.5 4 cylinders has twin tailpipes.
This discussion has been closed.