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Ford Escape Electrical Problems

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Comments

  • greg_bagreg_ba Ottawa, ONPosts: 4
    greg_ba said:

    Great vid. I think 1st I'll double check the ground & maybe tie a new one to an area on or near the the starter. I'll test for drainage via the fuses & failing that maybe add a toggle switch for the battery...Tks again..

  • greg_bagreg_ba Ottawa, ONPosts: 4
    edited December 2016
    Since this Escape has almost 400000 km on it, less $$ & thought the better. Installed a kill switch on the NEGATIVE Terminal and enough length of cable to make it inconspicuous, outside of the vehicle. Added a "keep alive" (for PCM, Radio clock, etc) which plugs into the accessory port (same as lighter)...it has a 9 volt battery included. All works well....we'll see..., and about $50.00 Canadian for everything.
  • I just recently bought an '02 Escape to replace my older Subaru Outback that I used to run around town. I went about 3 days without starting it and found I had an almost dead battery. I had just replaced the junky after market radio the previous owner had put in it with a OEM radio I found on Ebay. I noticed in the dark, through the window, that the little green lights that illuminate the face of the radio were on with the key off. I went through all the recommendations here to find the problem, but still had about a 350 milliamp drain without the key on. When I pulled the radio and pulled the connector loose, the drain dropped to about 80 milliamps, they say 50 or below is ideal. When I pulled fuse F2.27 (inside fuse panel, driver side to the left of your left foot) and plugged it back in (key off) I heard the radio hum for a couple of seconds like the cd player was loading. (Note that the radio did not work with the key off, but you could press the clock button to see the time telling me that another wire other than the hot wire was used to give the radio a signal to turn on) My solution: I pulled out the cigarette lighter socket next to the radio hole, unplugged it, taped the connector with electrical tape. I bought a little toggle switch at Advance Auto ~$4, AutoCraft #AC85924 (Home Depot has them, diff. number) that would snap into the 1" hole left by the lighter socket. I found the hot wire ( key off) on the radio connector, disconnected negative terminal from battery, cut the wire behind the connector leaving enough room to crimp on two inline connectors and ran the hot wire through the toggle switch. (I had all the crimping connectors) Now to turn on radio with the toggle switch. My battery has held a 13 volt charge for about 24 hours after charging it overnight the night before. I noticed when I turn on the radio with the new switch the time reverts back to 12:00, and the station reverts back to 530AM. Based on that, I believe the radio is supposed to have power to it to maintain the time and last station, but my radio may have a fault in it that keeps it illuminated and maybe activating the CD or Cassette player, thus draining power. A better solution may be to find a wire from the ignition that only becomes hot with the ignition on to power the radio. That setup may required an inline fuse for safety. There may be another problem besides a possible fault in the radio, but I'm a cheap skate and not going to the dealer to have them change parts to find it.
  • So I ended up having to replace the engine I had the top end redone on last year. Cylinder #2 died and that was it for that engine. I managed to pick up an engine with only 36K on it. I was just starting to like this car again and now the alternator is going. The usual ABS light came on, radio started turning on and off and lost all dash lights story. I can honestly say I have sunk 10Gs into this vehicle over the last 2 years. I hate this vehicle, I only drive it in winter to keep my Cadillac off the road till summer. Escapes are a joke, I think if I left the keys in the ignition and a case of beer on the seat, only the beer would be missing the next morning!
  • I have a 2005 ford escape came back from cleveland and the battery light came on and off and it started putting up hills and over 55 now i go to drive arpund the corner battery light comes on and off then all the guages go no radio or turn signals i park it disconnect battery and my altenator is still working but my windshield wipers go haywire. .but when i go to turn the key back on with the battery hooked back up its fine but once it idles for 2 min guages go radio goes again and battery light comes back on please help what is wrong with this truck?
  • I have a 2006 Ford Escape hybrid. I have lowered gas mileage around 26 mpg. When turning key off I have a shutter then shut off. Recently replaced battery and spark plugs. Now I’m hearing a tapping noise after driving for a while when I’m idle coming from rear. 
  • To escape_solved, a word of thanks. I think I'm now the 3rd person to verify that your "sweeping gauges" fix worked for them. I have a 2003 Ford Escape and its instrument gauges would randomly sweep full scale, then back to zero, then back to a proper indication. The engine seemed to misfire when this happened. It took it to Autozone and their OBD reader showed no record of misfires, nor did I have an engine-check light on. I went to one website that gave me a Ford generalized maintenance bulletin about various electrical issues. Testing the grounds is what they had you do. I did it all to no avail. I did have excessive ripple across my battery (AC voltage) of around 100 mV. Autozone said the alternator tested bad. I replaced the alternator, then Autozone retested it and found it good. The ripple came down to about 30 mVolts. The sweeping gauges issue did not go away after that. (Bummer). Then I saw your post about replacing all the coil-on-plug packs. I became convinced that it was probably the cause since two other people thanked you for helping them also. I replaced all 6 coil packs and Bezinga!, the instrument gauges sweep no more! Apparently these old coils (one person said on a site that their ancient spark plugs caused their gauges to sweep, but mine were only 1&1/2 years old) somehow strobe the drive control computer with RF Interference up the control lines and cause it to go into a power-on reset state. That's why the gauges sweep, they behave as if you just turned the ignition key and started the engine. Anyway, thank you very much for your help.
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