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Ford Escape Electrical Problems



  • greg_bagreg_ba Ottawa, ONPosts: 4
    greg_ba said:

    Great vid. I think 1st I'll double check the ground & maybe tie a new one to an area on or near the the starter. I'll test for drainage via the fuses & failing that maybe add a toggle switch for the battery...Tks again..

  • greg_bagreg_ba Ottawa, ONPosts: 4
    edited December 2016
    Since this Escape has almost 400000 km on it, less $$ & thought the better. Installed a kill switch on the NEGATIVE Terminal and enough length of cable to make it inconspicuous, outside of the vehicle. Added a "keep alive" (for PCM, Radio clock, etc) which plugs into the accessory port (same as lighter) has a 9 volt battery included. All works well....we'll see..., and about $50.00 Canadian for everything.
  • I just recently bought an '02 Escape to replace my older Subaru Outback that I used to run around town. I went about 3 days without starting it and found I had an almost dead battery. I had just replaced the junky after market radio the previous owner had put in it with a OEM radio I found on Ebay. I noticed in the dark, through the window, that the little green lights that illuminate the face of the radio were on with the key off. I went through all the recommendations here to find the problem, but still had about a 350 milliamp drain without the key on. When I pulled the radio and pulled the connector loose, the drain dropped to about 80 milliamps, they say 50 or below is ideal. When I pulled fuse F2.27 (inside fuse panel, driver side to the left of your left foot) and plugged it back in (key off) I heard the radio hum for a couple of seconds like the cd player was loading. (Note that the radio did not work with the key off, but you could press the clock button to see the time telling me that another wire other than the hot wire was used to give the radio a signal to turn on) My solution: I pulled out the cigarette lighter socket next to the radio hole, unplugged it, taped the connector with electrical tape. I bought a little toggle switch at Advance Auto ~$4, AutoCraft #AC85924 (Home Depot has them, diff. number) that would snap into the 1" hole left by the lighter socket. I found the hot wire ( key off) on the radio connector, disconnected negative terminal from battery, cut the wire behind the connector leaving enough room to crimp on two inline connectors and ran the hot wire through the toggle switch. (I had all the crimping connectors) Now to turn on radio with the toggle switch. My battery has held a 13 volt charge for about 24 hours after charging it overnight the night before. I noticed when I turn on the radio with the new switch the time reverts back to 12:00, and the station reverts back to 530AM. Based on that, I believe the radio is supposed to have power to it to maintain the time and last station, but my radio may have a fault in it that keeps it illuminated and maybe activating the CD or Cassette player, thus draining power. A better solution may be to find a wire from the ignition that only becomes hot with the ignition on to power the radio. That setup may required an inline fuse for safety. There may be another problem besides a possible fault in the radio, but I'm a cheap skate and not going to the dealer to have them change parts to find it.
  • demonllamademonllama Posts: 4
    So I ended up having to replace the engine I had the top end redone on last year. Cylinder #2 died and that was it for that engine. I managed to pick up an engine with only 36K on it. I was just starting to like this car again and now the alternator is going. The usual ABS light came on, radio started turning on and off and lost all dash lights story. I can honestly say I have sunk 10Gs into this vehicle over the last 2 years. I hate this vehicle, I only drive it in winter to keep my Cadillac off the road till summer. Escapes are a joke, I think if I left the keys in the ignition and a case of beer on the seat, only the beer would be missing the next morning!
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