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Toyota Camry 2006 and earlier

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Comments

  • ray_h1ray_h1 Member Posts: 1,134
    And the relationship between burned sparkplugs and the car's transmission is?
  • oracle_of_rockoracle_of_rock Member Posts: 58
    Shortly after I bought my 03 Camry LE V6 (new), I noticed a loose-feeling in the steering. Sometimes in utters a low pitched clanking noise also; something that sounds similar to turning the steering wheel when the car is not moving. I've had it to the dealer several times and even a private alignment shop -- everyone claims the front end is tight and properly aligned. I never noticed this in my 00 Camry LE V6.

    Anyone else experience this (problem)??
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Member Posts: 1,134
    Have you or anyone else checked the power steering fluid level?
  • oracle_of_rockoracle_of_rock Member Posts: 58
    All fluids are checked with each oil change, however, I will check it myself later today.

    Thanks!!
  • monica01monica01 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 92 Camry XLE that has been the best car I've owned (249,000 miles on it). The remote that operates the keyless entry and the alarm inadvertently got run over - a lot. Alas the tape has finally worn off and I need to get a replacement. The dealer wants to charge me just to look at it. Any idea who made those systems? I believe it was factory installed. Would I be better off installing a new system instead of trying to hunt down the replacement? Thanks.
  • njeraldnjerald Member Posts: 689
    Buy one on EBAY or from your dealer if it was a Toyota factory.

    You should have had two and they should say Toyota on them.
  • lmacmillmacmil Member Posts: 1,758
    We've had an unusually hot summer. When my black 2005 sits out in the sun all day, it seems to take quite a while to cool down, even on recirculate. The interior is light so at least the surfaces aren't hot but it doesn't seem like the air coming out is all that cold. I wouldn't expect the charge to be low on a car only 16 months old.

    Anyone think the Camry AC is weak relative to other cars they've owned?
  • oracle_of_rockoracle_of_rock Member Posts: 58
    Checked the power steering fluid and discovered two levels indicated -- one for a hot engine and one for a cold engine. Since I had driven the car earlier in the day, I can't say it was hot but the temperature outside was a good 82 degrees so it sure wasn't cold. According to the fluid level markings, it's either 1/2 way between max./min. if the engine is considered hot or slightly overfilled if the engine is considered cold. Tomorrow morning I'll check it when I'm sure the engine is totally cold.

    By the way, does the Camry V6 require a "special" power steering fluid or can I just pick up a quart of something generic at Walmart??

    Thanks -- Rick
  • oracle_of_rockoracle_of_rock Member Posts: 58
    I asked the same question in relationship to the Camry Hybrid. In the Camry Hybrid forum, check messages 2794 and 2792.

    I thought, in the Camry 4 cylinder (not hybrid) I had test driven, the AC was not as cold as the unit I have on my 03 Camry LE V6, however, (according to their experience) several hybrid owners disagreed.

    I'm real sensitive to AC -- it's never be too cold for me. The best unit I ever had was in my 00 Camry LE V6.

    Rick
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    If you want COLD A/C outlet airflow then turn the temperature control all the way down and then use the blower speed to moderate your comfort level.

    Most modern day systems CHILL the airflow first for dehumidification and then a portion of the airflow goes through a reheat/remix cycle so the outlet airflow isn't so COLD as to discomfort you and your passengers.

    But then if you want REALLY COLD airflow then put a manual shutoff valve in the hot water line from the engine to the heater to remove the reheat capability altogether and/or the results of radiant heating of the airflow from the close by, VERY close by, heater core.
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Member Posts: 1,134
    "By the way, does the Camry V6 require a "special" power steering fluid or can I just pick up a quart of something generic at Walmart??"

    Universally available and cheap Ford Type F or Dexron III automatic transmission fluid will be fine in just about any power steering system except a Honda's. (There may be several European systems that are fussy about their PS fluids, too.)
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Member Posts: 1,134
    "...We've had an unusually hot summer. When my black 2005 sits out in the sun all day, it seems to take quite a while to cool down, even on recirculate..."

    An unusually hot summer (polite-speak for days of heckish triple-digit heat?) and a black car put a very high demand on automotive A/C systems. If your car has automatic climate control, cut to the chase and set it to manual, recirculate, the heat control valve all the way to "Arctic Whiteout", and the fan speed set to "Tornado". Set the vents to the upper level, only, to blast your face with cold air. (Ironically, the rest of your bod can be broiling, but if your face and neck are cool, subjectively you feel cool. ;)) Don't worry about suffocating with the system set to recirculate. There is adequate fresh air flow through the cabin, nevertheless. Fuel mileage? PHHhhttT! - Your comfort is worth more than a few extra pennies at the pump, even at 3+ bucks a gallon. (In this life, you don't get extra points for needlessly suffering.)
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Actually the more correct or proper procedure, at least initially, would be to turn the system to MAXIMUM COOLING, the blower up to MAX and keep (or return) the system in "fresh" incoming airflow for the first few minutes after the car has sat out in the hot summer sun for an extended period.

    That will help to force the HOT, super-heated, atmosphere from the cabin. Lowering the rear windows slightly will also help. If the interior surfaces have been really HEATED, as well they might, it would likely be worthwhile staying in this configuration for the early, brief, portion of your drive.

    But once the interior has cooled down you should switch the system to recirculate (but NEVER use this mode coolish or cold climates), and turn the blower to a fairly low speed.

    Remember that the longer warm milk remains in the 'frig the colder it becomes. The same is true of the airflow coming from those dash vents, the longer it takes t air to move through the A/C evaporator the cooler it will become.

    In recirculate mode the high blower speed would cool the cabin, overall, just as quickly as in low speed, but at low speed "you" will be cooled, and/or feel the effects of cooling, much earlier, more quickly.
  • oracle_of_rockoracle_of_rock Member Posts: 58
    Just checked the power steering fluid level (the engine hasn't been run today)and according to the cold level markings, the fluid is right up to the maximum level.

    Rick
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    BTW, Toyota specifies Dexron III automatic transmission fluid for the power steering system. So a generic is okay, but Ford Type F is not the proper one to use.
  • lmacmillmacmil Member Posts: 1,758
    My Camry SE AC is manual and I do turn the cold to min and the fan to max. Have tried various combinations of recirculate with everything closed and outside air with windows cracked or wide open for the first few minutes.

    Drove the wife's Highlander today, which has auto climate control, and my "calibrated" fingers told me that the conditioned air is much colder coming out of the vents than the Camry when both are in re-circulate.

    I'm sure part of the Camry issue is the black exterior (the Highlander is gold). Haven't been able to make an apples-to-apples comparion with comparable outside temps. Next time I have it in for service, I will have it checked out.

    Thanks for all the comments.
  • smile1017smile1017 Member Posts: 37
    I have been asking for help on the "problems" thread for a couple of days and people don't seem to have an answer. To sum it up my 99 4 cyl Camry with 117K miles on it is have trouble. :sick: White smoke comes out of the tail pipe at start up. There is no change in the performance (mpg, shifting, engine temperature etc). The car has been serviced regularly and was just in for an oil change about two months (2000 miles) ago. Some mechanics seem to think that it is the head gasket and will cost about $1200-$1300 :cry: to fix. If this is a reasonable estimate, I would like to fix it because I am not very appealed by the $30K price tag on the hybrids and the 07 4 cyl seem to have issues.

    If the above issue is true, then I have several other smaller issued that I would like help with.
    1) I have to put premium gas for it to get the 29-31 mpg. When I put in a lower grad the mileage drops significantly (has not been tested recently - Tested about 4 yrs ago). Is there something I can do or is this normal in the 99 Camry?
    2) The fuel tank release is broken and I need a replacement mechanism. Is it easy to replace? Where can I buy the replacement without going through the dealer?

    This has been a great car for me. I have had it since day one (January 99) and I would like to keep it for another 3-4 years before buying something else. Please help - this is my first brand new car. I can't believe that it would be dying at 117K. My previous car was an 84 Camry that lasted 19 year and had 179K miles on it when I turned it in and the dealer still gave me $800 for it to buy the 99. I would like to keep the tradition of going over 175K. ;)

    Please help. :confuse:

    P.S. If you in the SoCal IE area, please suggest some "trustworthy" toyota specialists other than the dealer. I think the owner of the shop I go to has retired and the new people got me mad because they would not answer my questions like the old guy. :mad:
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Member Posts: 1,134
    The difference between Ford Type F and any GM spec ATF through Dexron III is the total absence of friction modifiers in the Ford fluid versus those in Dexron that are taylored to GM's AT band and clutch friction facings. PS fluids are simply spec'd as hydraulic fluids - which all ATFs easily meet (Honda's excepted). PS fluids carry no requirement for boundary layer friction modifiers since they have no clutch facing materials in their innards that have to be taylored to achieve smooth shifting characteristics*. I wasn't proposing that Ford Type F be sought out, but it is formulated as a general hydraulic fluid and does fully meet the requirements in all PS systems except Honda's and perhaps several European systems. Toyota's specific recommendation for Dexron III is just as, if not more, likely due to its universal availability. Even mom-n-pop gas & snack shops in East Possum Trot can be counted on to have a bottle or two of Dexron III on a shelf.

    *Many a drag racer with a beefed-up Powerglide run Ford Type F for one reason and one reason only: solid, spine-breaking shifts when the pedal's to the metal of a blown big-block Chevy "Rat" motor running nitromethane. B&M "TrickShift" ATF is nothing more than relabled and outrageously priced Ford Type F ATF.
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Member Posts: 1,134
    That visible white "smoke" is steam - from vaporized coolant. If it's visible at all, it's past time to merely think about dealing with it. If that were the end of it, it would merely be an annoyance with a requirement to keep the coolant level in the radiator topped up. But, that isn't the end of it. Some of the coolant that's being drawn into one or more cylinders isn't making its way harmlessly out the exhaust pipe. It's being forced past the piston rings in the affected cylinder(s) and into the crankcase where the water and antifreeze condense after shutdown and cool-off as a very insideous form of oil contamination. Ethylene glycol (the "antifreeze" part of antifreeze) has very poor lubricating properties and is VERY corrosive to lead containing bearing materials (main and connecting rod bearings). You NEED to get that problem attended to if you want to save your engine. Once a mechanic gets the cam cover off, you'll soon know whether you have additional problems that era Toyota motor is noted for. Sorry, I don't have any recommendations for you for an honest, competent, Toyota mechanic. I'm sure there are some very good ones around. Jawboning with other Toyota Camry owners in shopping center parking lots may give you some leads, though.
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    Thanks, I didn't know that to the level of detail you provided. So it would technically be okay to mix Dexron III and Ford Type F in the power steering system of a Camry?
  • smile1017smile1017 Member Posts: 37
    Thanks ray_h1. Unfortunately it was the head gasket. No oil contamination or coolant problem. A little bit of oil leak through old seals cause some over heating that caused the cylinder head to have a little bit of damage, but all the gaskets and seals were shot. They're replacing all the seals and gaskets and refinishing the cylinder. I won't get the car back until next week. :( At least there was some good news - NO SLUDGE!! :shades: Not happy about spending close to $1400 but it's a lot better than needing a new engine or buying a new car. According to the mechanic, other than the 117K miles already on it, the engine will be as good as new. I guess I can try to get to 200K. ;) Thanks for your input.
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    ray_h1, you sure provide some great information in our discussions. Thanks very much!! :D
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Member Posts: 1,134
    "So it would technically be okay to mix Dexron III and Ford Type F in the power steering system of a Camry?"

    In a purely hydraulic application such as PS systems, there'd be no problem either way. Both fluids use a light 5W base oil for cold weather operation and both have appropriate elastomeric seal swell agents to maintain leak-free operation as well as extreme pressure anti-wear agents to protect wear metal parts. The presence or absence of boundary layer friction modifiers* in the fluid has no bearing in hydraulic applications because there're no clutch facing materials involved. How did Ford get away without using friction modifiers in their earliest ATs? The company's friction facings were VERY hard - controlled slippage was a designed-in attribute. Eventually (~1975-ish) Ford "learned" from that "mistake" - hence FM doped Mercon, Mercon V, and Mercon SP ATFs...

    *This chemistry allows initial controlled slippage and then "locks" the driving and driven pieces as they heat up for full engagement. FMs got their start with GM "Type A, Suffix A" ATF fluid and then progressed with the various Dexrons. The Japanese and Europeans signed on to Dexron initially, but eventully realized if they branched out with their own clutch facing materials (and specified proprietary ATFs ;)), they could catch a ride on the gravy train for field service. Now proprietary $6.00/qt. automaker ATFs are a reality. Ain't progress jist wunnerful?...

    For another take, though, Ford appears to backtrack (or at least not aggressively recommend) Ford Type F ATF for non-Ford PS systems. Your call.
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Member Posts: 1,134
    Thanks, pat.

    (I still find it annoying doing the slidebar lateral jitterbug to line up text on my legacy monitor... [snicker] ;))
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    I don't blame you - that's a real pain. Have you been following the Software discussion? If not, you probably have not seen the announcement that a fix should be implemented 8/16. Check it out: Sylvia, "Forums Software! Your Questions Answered..." #2928, 1 Aug 2006 9:34 pm.

    :D
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Member Posts: 1,134
    "At least there was some good news - NO SLUDGE!!"

    Well, you're right; that was good news. But there's somewhat bitter irony attached if you're the original owner... Had there been sludge in your engine, you might well have been elligible for a complete engine rebuild on Toyota's nickel (as long as you could supply evidence of at least one oil change per year). Toyota extended the warranty on the 1995-2001 "sludgemonster" engines to ten years, unlimited miles. By necessity that would've included remilling the head as needed to achieve proper sealing and replacing the head gasket.

    (Ever get the feeling that the powers that control our destinies sometimes have a perverse sense of humor?)
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    Thanks also; your detailed knowledge is second to none!
  • smile1017smile1017 Member Posts: 37
    I know, just as I was thinking about upgrading, then the car has issues. Then there is the extended warranty, but at least I don't lose the car for an extended amount of time and I don't have to hassle with toyota and the dealer etc. I am the original owner, but technically I am not. Car was a gift from my uncle so I have had it since day 1. The other thing is trying to prove the I performed to oil changes my self. Yes, I may be a girl, but the same uncle did teach me how to change my oil and some other minor things. I just saw a prolonged fight and for $1400 I would rather not. It would have probably cost me more to rent a car during the process!! In the end, I am satisfied and would just like to revel a little in this minor conquest. ;)
    Like I always said - Look around you and try to tell me that God does not have a sense of humor. And if we are truly "made in the image of God" then our "perverse sense of humor" must come from somewhere. :)
  • gsamsagsamsa Member Posts: 1
    I wacked the driver's side mirror on my US-built 97 Camry and am trying to replace it. All the replacement parts online are for a power-operated mirror, yet my mirror is manual. I can't even find a reference to such a beast. Any thoughts?
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    Have you tried 1aauto?

    I just ordered a replacement taillight for my Nissan Frontier from them. They sell through eBay also; in fact, they are one of the largest sellers on eBay, and you can get discounts that way.
  • williewiskerswilliewiskers Member Posts: 10
    Hi there, My name is Williewiskers: I have a 91 Toy. Cressida which I love. But have had head gasket problems with it. Two weeks ago I decided to replace it with a Japanese motor. Otherwise it would cost 1 to 1.5M to fix. The car runs greatnow. The Mechanic said Toyotos have a bit problem with that. If you like here is my e-mail. and I will fill you in on the details. l5464b@yahoo.com It's a problem, I know.
  • smile1017smile1017 Member Posts: 37
    I have gotten my head gasket fixed already for about $1400 and the mechanic changed everything including the water pump and the timing belt. So really if you take that into account, he only charged me about $1000 for the head gasket. The car is running just fine so I now plan to keep the car for a few more year. :) However, the check engine light came on again. I have a scheduled oil change with the guy on Saturday since the re-machined the head gasket. I guess he will check on that then.
  • poorcruzerpoorcruzer Member Posts: 141
    The Edmunds recall stats site will not accept the six character Canadian zip codes. Can somebody tell me how to access recalls and bulletins for an 1998 Toyota Camry 4cyl LE automatic please, Thanks alot.
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    I hope someone can tell you how to do that, but meanwhile, use the Help link at the bottom of the page to report this - and let us know what happens.
  • gingitgingit Member Posts: 9
    I definitely don't think you should just ignore it. It's NOT normal, unless you just accidentally overfilled the reservoir tank, in which case it might come out the overflow hose. Otherwise, check whether your temperature gauge indicates the car overheating. Then go to a reputable car repair place (sometimes it helps to ask a local auto repair training school if they can recommend someone in the area) with that information. They should be able to check if the radiator is working correctly, or the thermostat or the caps need replacement. If those don't resolve it, then you're in the same boat with me. Hopefully, you won't be.

    I have a 93 Camry LE Wagon. Last year I suddenly had a problem with my reservoir boiling over if I drove longer than an hour or so. I would not get any warning lights, although after it was boiling over, the thermostat would show the car running hot. The only way I would normally notice it was that I would hear the boiling sound, particularly after I turned off my car or if I was sittingon the passenger side. My local service station couldn't reproduce the problem when letting the car idle for more than an hour, but was able to reproduce it when they put the car up on blocks and gased it as if driving it for more than an hour. They ended up replacing the full radiator, the several radiator caps three times to better and better quality ones, the thermostat, and the reservoir tank. The problem continued. I asked a local Toyota repair manager what he thought should be my next step, and he suggested they test whether the head gasket (I think it was?) might need replacement. The original service station tested it at my suggestion, and said yes it would need replacement, but refused to do any more work for the $1,000 I had already paid them. I decided to have the Toyota dealer take over. They did the test, said it did NOT need that work, but instead sent the radiator out and had it "boiled" and they claimed it removed blockages that had somehow been created when the new radiator had been installed by the other service station. They also replaced the thermostat again. This cost me another $600-700. They assured me they drove the vehicle for over an hour to test it, and that they had fixed the problem. I didn't have reason to drive the car more than 20-30 minutes for the next several months, but when I did, the problem reoccurred. I haven't had the money to pursue any other solutions to the problem, so for now, I'm just driving the car less than an hour at a time. I've asked several 'gearhead' friends, and none of them can think of anything else that should be checked or replaced. I'm at a loss.
  • grant2grant2 Member Posts: 30
    How can one replace the dashboard instrument panel light bulbs? This is for a 2000 Camry LE. Dealer said they'd charge $175.
  • kblakekblake Member Posts: 2
    :confuse: I have a 1997 Camry LE 4 cyl with a little over 150,000 miles on it. Never had any major trouble besides your normal maintenance until now! Lately the car has been jerking bad but only when the car reaches 50 to 60 miles/hour. Any time before or after that it does not do it. It seems like it is miss firing. I took it to my Mechanic for a tune up and changed all the wires & spark plugs out. It stopped for a couple of days but then started again. I took it back and he thought that maybe there was a bad wire harness connection. When he pull the wire harness and spark plug to replace them he said that it looks like the spark plugs are burning a wierd color and can't figure out why this would happen. Any suggestion would greatly be appreciated. :confuse:
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Member Posts: 1,134
    Unusual to fry spark plugs that quickly unless really grossly incorrect heat range plugs were substituted for what the shop manual specifies. But before you start throwing more parts (money) at an undiagnosed problem, better check for fault codes to find out whether there're deeper ignition system or general mechanical probs that would foul recently replaced spark plugs. Good luck.
  • miter1miter1 Member Posts: 1
    I have been doing my own oil change for decades but could not see where the oil filter is located in 06 Camry (4 cylinder, newly acquired). Any pointers? Thanks.
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    It's in front of the engine on the passenger side, recessed between the engine and the splash shield behind the bumper.

    You have to access it from underneath the car. It's best to use a cap-type wrench, with an extension.

    When you loosen the filter and some oil starts to run out, just leave it alone for a while to drain (with a pan underneath of course) before you continue. Otherwise, you'll get oil running down your arm.

    Good luck!
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Member Posts: 1,134
    I love the smell of scaldingly hot oil searing unprotected flesh in the morning. It smells like ... like, agony.

    (apologies to George S. Patton...)
  • bildowbildow Member Posts: 100
    You can use dexron 3 in your power steering or mobil one synthetic transmission fluid and change it every 30,000 miles
    I wouldn't use ford transmission fluid in a camry, and you can drain your transmission fluid by using the drain plug on the transmission only use the toyota type 1V transmission fluid it has special additives to make the trans shift smoothly don't use dexron 3 in a 03 camry if you choose to use synthetic trans fluid use Amsoil you can find them on the internet it is expensive but it does help the tranny to run cooler in the summer and also in cold weather it ready to flow in the trans when it get really gets cold.
  • paulcudlippaulcudlip Member Posts: 33
    I have been purchasing Toyota products since 1970 from the same Toyota dealership in my area. During the past two oil changes, oil residue has been left all over my engine causing oil spots on my garage floor. There are absolutely no oil leaks outside of sloppy oil changes. I sent a letter to the service manager indicating the sloppy service and never received a reply.

    Has anyone else experienced this type of sloppy service from a Toyota dealership? I have never run into this until now.
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    I'd complain in person, and if there is no decent response, I'd recommend taking your business elsewhere. Has the dealership changed hands recently?

    You could patronize a locally owned independent shop instead -- get recommendations from friends, relatives, or co-workers. I'd avoid the "quickie lube" places as well as chain tire stores.
  • w9cww9cw Member Posts: 888
    Paul - The typical dealer doesn't use a mechanic to change the oil. Rather, they hire young folks to do this work, and sometimes it can even be high school-age kids. This is not the case everywhere, but it is typical. Given the price competition from the Quick Lube places, dealer's can't afford to have line mechanics change oil.

    This is one of the major reasons I've always changed oil myself. It's easy, and at the very least, I know it's done right. My local Advance Auto Parts store is my oil recycling depository, and this system works very well.
  • chevymalibuchevymalibu Member Posts: 129
    on car talk, they discuss oil, filters and the like a lot. I've read that you can gain maybe 1-2 MPG more if you use synthetic oil vs dino oil. I only use dino castrol in my 2005 camry and 2004 accord. I get about 40 MPG on the highway with both cars so I don't care about full synthetic. I was considering using a blend but the experts on car talk's site says you're wasting your money. It's more of a peace of mind for protection vs. actual gains.
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    I agree with the car talk guys, and the only time I used synthetic was when my son took our 2004 Camry cross-country to go to school in L.A. This was in the summer, and temps reached 107 degrees during the trip. Plus it provided a cushion once he got to L.A. before he had to change the oil again.
  • chevymalibuchevymalibu Member Posts: 129
    how did this fuel filter change go? The thing is you have to tighten the nuts to prevent leakage but removing them is tough (the top one is fine to use a normal socket but the bottom one that's flared on the gas line needs the flare wrench for a better grip on that nut). Once I stripped that bottom one, I left it alone. My brother in law has the car now so he'll have to buy a new line (only $19 at a toyota dealer) and have someone replace it from the tank to the bottom of the gas filter. I might have overtightened them but I didn't want gas leaking during driving. You're lucky, the new gas filters on my 2005 camry and 2004 accord are in the gas tank and you have to remove the back seat and panel and get at the gas tank for the fuel filter. That will cost some bucks. Doubt I'll do that myself.
  • lmacmillmacmil Member Posts: 1,758
    My dealer has kids doing the oil changes and I've never had a spot on my driveway afterwards.
  • johnfromncjohnfromnc Member Posts: 10
    I have a '99 Camry V6 5-speed that I like a lot. It has about 100,000 miles. I bought it used over a year ago. Everything is fine . . . . except randomly and with no discernible pattern, it won't start after I have been driving it.

    This has happened maybe 5 times in 15 months. It never happens when I start it up "first thing" (meaning in my garage). It has never happened on a long trip.

    During one episode a kind-soul had a voltmeter and checked the battery. The battery was fine. When one turns the key during these "won't start" episodes, all accessories come on, but there is only a starter "click, click, click." It takes only a touch of the jumper cable for the car to fire right up.

    I'd be interested in your thoughts.

    This may sound completely crazy, but I have a vague suspicion (nothing more) that it might have something to do with the daytime running light system.

    Oh, one more thing. The original owner installed an aftermarket alarm/automatic starter device. It was a piece of crap, and the original owner disabled it long before I bought the car. I don't know what's left from this.

    Thanks in advance for your help!
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