Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Oldsmobile Silhouette

1…2021222325

Comments

  • brumpfbrumpf Member Posts: 14
    101,000 and my fuel gage is bouncing all over the place. Has anyone serviced the fuel gage or knows what the problem is?
  • ezupanezupan Member Posts: 2
    i have a 2000 Sil with 113k and just started haveing the same high pitch sound when accelerating. dies down when I let off the gas. Doesnt happen when the car first turns on, but shortly afterward. Did you find out what it was
  • ezupanezupan Member Posts: 2
    i have a 2000 Sil with 113k and just started haveing the same high pitch sound when accelerating. dies down when I let off the gas. Doesnt happen when the car first turns on, but shortly afterward. Did you find out what it was?
  • hrjoehrjoe Member Posts: 2
    CapeCod,

    I'm interested in what you found out on your wiper motor. I have the same exact problem, as of this morning. Do I have to put a whole new motor in, or just some part? It's strange that it works at high speed only.

    Joe
  • bob550kbob550k Member Posts: 148
    I had to argue with my tech to get him to just put in a new battery. It had a full charge, but strange things were happening.

    The new battery cured it.

    1999 Silo with 103,000 miles.

    For those who care, this car has good car with a few problems. It's held up very well, looks and runs excellent.
  • spefoubouspefoubou Member Posts: 1
    what does that mean on my wife's 1999 Oldsmobile Silhoutte?
  • scottiedogsscottiedogs Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Olds Silhouette and the driver side power sliding door will not open with any of the three options to open it (remote, button on side, button on console). It sounds like it wants to open but it can't. When I disable the door, I can open and close it fine manually. If I open the door manually, then enable the door, I can close it fine with the button or remote. I have tried to reset it like it states in the manual with no luck. Any ideas why this is??
  • gedgoudaslgedgoudasl Member Posts: 21
    I had a similar problem with the same door. Using the power system, button, key fob, etc. the door would sometimes unlock and sometimes it would not. If it did not the door would not open even manually until you played with it for some time. The problem was the power lock actuator, cost about $150.00 for the part. The spring lost its spring and when you attempted to unlock the door the actuator would move the mechanism perhaps half way which blocked any manual attempt to unlock the door and until the spring finally pushed the mechanism all the way I was stuck with a locked door. If you are mechanically inclined you can replace the actuator yourself, I did. I believe the labor at the shop was going to be about $200.00. Solution was to repair it or never use the power assist for that door.
  • azuazu Member Posts: 84
    I just want to confirm that it is 5/8. I just got a 99 and went to change the oil but the plug is on so tight I can't get it off. It seems to be rounding out so it slips and I called it a day. I'll just take it somewhere to have the oil changed as well as a new plug.
  • happymom13happymom13 Member Posts: 1
    Read my blog, there is too much going on to post it here, but I need to know if we should keep trying to fix this hunk of junk, or if I should get something different. :lemon:

    http://www.carspace.com/blogs/happymom13/My-Crappy-Van

    image
    Highlights from my blog:
    We drove home, up the mountain again (45 minutes and 3'000 ft), with no problems. The next day it over heated faster than usual and there was liquid on the ground and all over the top of the engine. Looked like you poured milk on the engine and it boiled off. There was green coolant everywhere on the engine too.

    The main "tube" connecting the coolant tank to the engine had come loose and melted a hole in the side. The mechanic said he replaced all the tubes because they were leaking. Great job buddy! :mad:

    It took 3 days to get the $30 tube, but the day after we installed that, the van stalled on my on my way home, turning onto our street. I tried to start it and it wasn't turning. :confuse:

    My husband brought it home and looked at the oil ... THERE WAS WATER IN THE ENGINE!!! :sick:
    Dammit ... the oil looked like a cafe latte, a creamy coffee color, and it reached halfway up the oil dipstick. :lemon:

    What should I sell it for? There's a couple dents in the body, not bad, the brake light casing (the red plastic) is busted, the automatic side door won't open by itself, but it closes just fine, the passenger side window motor is out (may be just a fuse, I don't know), and the two auto unlock key chains need new batteries. NONE of these problems are our fault by the way!

    Lowest price quote I've found is $800, highest is $1000. Keep in mind, there are almost brand new snow tires on it now, and a set of almost new tires in the back, that counts for something, right?
  • azuazu Member Posts: 84
    Most likely fuel level sending unit. Very common problem on these vans.
  • azuazu Member Posts: 84
    Hopefully you have drained the oil to save the engine. If not the rear bearing are shot and you are looking at a new engine. Probably needs a lower intake gasket or a head gasket or two. How many miles? I would expect with normal mileage with no engine damage you could sell it for $700-$1000. If the engine is shot your looking at under $500.
  • bob550kbob550k Member Posts: 148
    So lets see if I've got this straight.

    You drove a 12 year old car that you got for free that is known to overheat up a mountain and it overheated. AND you're put out because it overheated when you drove it up a mountain knowing it has a problem with overheating and it overheated.

    That sure sounds like a lemon to me...

    :sick:

    It sounds like you cooked the motor so badly that the coolant just dumped into the crank case and it hydro locked. I'm sure it didn't have anything to do with driving it up a mountian with an overheating issue.

    I think I need to go outside and have a good scream about now.
  • luck2luck2 Member Posts: 1
    I just had the same problem. I took the motor off and pulled of the cover that the ciruit board is in. Seem the Diode came loose. I just went in and fixed that and it works on all speeds again. Just have some problems with the wiper adjustment
  • lalalandlalaland Member Posts: 9
    To answer you question, yes, dump it now while you can. I can promise you your repair will START at $1,000. I can also promise you that if you can get $800 on a 98 (I think thats what it is) you should run with it. I just finally (yay happy dance!) unloaded mine and the most anyone wanted to give me was $1200, and this was for a 2002 top of the line model in pristine condition. 2nd brand new intake manifold, alternator, battery, a/c compressor, brakes, etc.

    This car is a heating/cooling nightmare. Electrical too. Just take a look at all the service bulletins on it.
    Run run run! :lemon:
  • alaskanbluealaskanblue Member Posts: 2
    Hi, I'm having a problem with my liftgate-it should lock automatically when I close it but after this winter it's not working. What can I do to get it to lock? Thanks, Mark
  • storyteller46storyteller46 Member Posts: 2
    We have a 2000 Silhouette with 100,100 miles. We took it to a dealer to have it checked out as we are going on vacation. We were told we need new head gaskets costing $2200. How can I verify that we need new gaskets? The person that called not the mechanic said we should think about a new vehicle. I just want to be sure about going ahead.

    Steve
  • azuazu Member Posts: 84
    Did they tell you how they found this out? Did they do a pressure test, vacuum test? Is the van overheating or losing coolant? I think they want to sell you a car. I had a dealer do that to me once when I took my Grand Marquis in for a front end alignment. They told me front end was a wreck and would cost over 1K to fix. I told them they are full of it. Took it to Pep Boys and had alignment done with no other work done. I had no problems for 20K after that and I sold it.
  • storyteller46storyteller46 Member Posts: 2
    Talked to the service tech. He said antifreeze was leaking at the rear head gasket. We had noticed a very slow loss of antifreeze. He said it was not serious yet but he could not say how long before it would be major. I decided to go ahead with the work. Thanks for your reply.

    Steve
  • ncostelloncostello Member Posts: 11
    I had same problem. I also had too many others to list. GM, I believe is a great product. There are exceptions and this is theirs. My Silhouette, also 2000 has 140,000 miles. I have related to nearly every inquiry on this particular vehicle. Decline the work and sell it as is. Trust me.
  • jmeaselljmeasell Member Posts: 30
    My 2001 Silhouette has nearly 100K miles and recently the "service traction system" message appeared as did the ABS and "trac off" lights. My local mechanic cleared the ABS history code 1218 pump motor short but the problem reappeared. Anybody experience a similar issue? Also, the fuel gage is bouncing all over the place and I noted an earlier post suggesting a possible fuel level sending unit. Doesn't qualify for "cash for clunkers" but perhaps it's time... Thanks.
  • ncostelloncostello Member Posts: 11
    I have a DTC P0301 w/pending code P0405. Old. Silhouette. 2000
    model year. 3.4l E engine. Approx 140,000 mi. I have a series of
    questions related to this vehicle. With in previous 6 mos., 25 total
    miles added to distance traveled, and approx. 20 hrs. of engine time
    elapsed it has been through the ringer. Great looking inside and out.
    comfy and pleasant to operate. Just can't quite get it smoothed out.
    Several hours of actual troubleshooting invested. New lower intake
    man. gasket, new after market (not original equip.) fuel pump and fuel
    quantity sending unit, coolant flush, 2 oil changes, Lucas brand fuel
    system cleaner added to fuel, New OEM leads and plugs, New after
    market coil pack for 1 & 4 cylinder, air filter, thermostat, vacuum
    lines and fittings, used fuel pres. reg., used MAF sns., used TP sns.
    All installed used parts ops checked good. Pulse light check on
    injectors seemed good. What should be done from here?
  • azuazu Member Posts: 84
    Check wiring to the EGR value and if that is ok change the EGR value.
  • jmeaselljmeasell Member Posts: 30
    Have received an estimate to address the "service traction system" and ABS and "trac off" lights. Need to replace ABS modular assembly and traction control pump for approx. $4K. Don't think the car is worth that much. Any ideas or suggestions? Thanks.
  • ncostelloncostello Member Posts: 11
    Thanks for the direction. Checked the wiring to EGR valve. ops checked good. Swapped EGR with operational valve and the problem duplicated. I no longer get DTC p0405. I do still have a p0301. Replaced power circuit ground cables and ohm checked the grounds to PCM. All checked good.I replaced the air filter again with different manufacturer. Cleaned the MAF sensor. Seemed to have accumulated more glaze than normal over short period of time. I replaced the fuel pressure sensor when the fuel pump was replaced. I used the original seal for the pump. I had difficulties installing the seal that was provided with new pump. Currently I have oil at the throttle body valve and noticed oil at the vent tube that crosses over the rear of engine that vents the valve covers. Although the exhaust is visibly normal in color and doesn't smell of burning oil. Also the pcv was installed when I did the intake manifold, and has a good "rattle" to it. The one thing I have not checked is converter failure. I also had a little bit more of a resistance on the EVAP purge valve control. I suppose I could also have a faulty fuel injector at the #1 location due to current misfire. Any additional feed back is well appreciated.
  • azuazu Member Posts: 84
    Swap the injector with another one. If the misfire moves then that injector is bad. The problem with the oil could be a back pressure problem and could be the cat converter.
  • ncostelloncostello Member Posts: 11
    Hi. So I replaced the #1 fuel injector. Did not solve the problem. Still getting DTC P0301. I did take a compression test and results were as follows: #1 cylinder 20lbs, #2 cylinder 135lbs, #3 cylinder 151lbs, #4 cylinder 150lbs, #5 cylinder 150lbs, #6 cylinder 145lbs.

    Knowing that the #1 cylinder was low when conventional compression test was administered I proceeded with a differential compression test. I set the piston to TDC on the compression stroke and regulated 90 psi into the cylinder. The cylinder held every bit of 90 psi. I rotated the crank to achieve TDC of the exhaust stroke and again regulated 90 psi into the cylinder. And again the cylinder held all of 90 psi.

    Back to the conventional method. The very first time I cranked the engine and started building pressure the gauge barely flickered. Then I ran through the procedures again. 20 psi. On the third consecutive test on the #1 cylinder it held pressure. All the way to 120 psi. So I tested it again. 20 psi. And again 20 psi. I did this 6 times consecutively and got the same, 20 psi. On the 9Th try the cylinder held 120 psi. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
  • CapeCodCapeCod Member Posts: 117
    1998 OLds Silhouette 110,000 miles
    For the 2nd year in a row the A/C has failed.
    Last year a recharge lasted more than 2 months ....
    this year the recharge lasted about 5-6 weeks...
    Same shop decided this year the problem was a 'core' leak...
    cost to repair $1000 ????
    What are the most common A/C issues with Silhouette ???
    I figured a line leak going to the rear unit?
    Core leak seemed a stretch as it wasn't 'found' last year.
    Am I just being paranoid... :surprise:
  • shopdog97shopdog97 Member Posts: 160
    A good friend has a '99 Olds Silhouette van. He has had it for about 5 years and it has been relatively trouble free, although he did replace the transmission about 2 years ago. He says it has been one of the best vehicles his family ever had, and he says he gets respectable gas mileage from it. He was here today and we changed the oil. He told me that the service engine light was on for the last few days but when he got here this morning, it had gone out. Nevertheless, I scanned the van with my OBD2 and got a code PO101. The book says this about it-"Mass or Volume Circuit Range Performance Problem". Could someone please translate the meaning of this code for me and perhaps suggest a course of repair action, if one is called for? Thanks a bunch.
  • 56pontiac56pontiac Member Posts: 5
    HAVE 2000 SILHOLOET 3.4 V6 188000 MILES REBUILT MOTOR 30000 MILES AGO YESTERDAY STARTED MAKING TAPING SOUNDS FROM THE LIFTERS I EVEN HEAR A KNOCK HEAR AND THEIR IS THEIR ANY THING THAT CAN CAUSE THIS OTHER THAN A BAD OIL PUMP WITCH WAS REPLACED WITH A HIGH FLOW PUMP WHEN I REBUILT THE MOTOR WOULD THE KNOCK SENCER MAKE THE LIFTERS RATTLE IF IT IS BAD
  • azuazu Member Posts: 84
    The rubber elbow on the PCV is cracked on my 99. I temporarily taped it up and is working. I could not find just that piece and bought the complete tubing. This elbow and tubing is one piece. While going to replace it, it seems it goes to the far other end of the manifold in the back. Will I need to roll the engine forward to access that end or can I get it through the back on a lift?
  • 56pontiac56pontiac Member Posts: 5
    YES IT IS POSSABLE FOR YOUR CAR TO BE OUT OF ALLINMENT AND YOU NOT KNOW I HAVE AN OLDS ALERO,
    ONE OF THE BACK A FRAME IS BENT AND IT GOSE THREW A TIRE EVERY SIX MONTHS AS SOON AS I FIX THE PROBLEM WITH MY NOISEY LIFTER ON MY VAN I AM PLANNING ON REPLACEING THAT AND GET A FOUR WHEEL ALLINMENT JOB DONE.
    THE CAR HANDLES FINE IT JUST GOSE THREW A LOT OF TIRES
  • 56pontiac56pontiac Member Posts: 5
    CHECK THE POWER STEERING PUMP MINE MAKES THE SAME NOISE ONE MINUTE WHINNES LIKE CRAZY THE NEXT NOTHING IT HAS BEN DOING IT FOR THE LAST YEAR AND A HALF ONCE IN A WHILE I PUT SEALER IN IT STOPS FOR A WHILE I FIGURE AS LONG AS IT WORKS I WILL LEAVE WELL ENOUGH A LONE
  • 56pontiac56pontiac Member Posts: 5
    I THINK MAYBE YOU GOT A BAD ONE.
    I HAVE HAD MINE FOR FIVE YEARS NEVER HAD A PROBLEM UNTILL A YEAR AGO AT ONE HUNDRED AND FIFTY SIX THOUSAND MILES IT BLEW UP SO I REBUILT THE MOTER I AM HAVE A FEW ISUES LATELY BUT I WOULD BUY ANOTHER ONE I A MINUTE
  • 56pontiac56pontiac Member Posts: 5
    A BAD FULE INJECTORE BUT YOU MIGHT WANT TO LET THE DEALER DO I JUST DID ONE AND IT IS A JOB YOU DO NOT WANT TO DO
  • benhobabenhoba Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Oldsmobile Silhouette with 255000 miles on it. Recently, the Check Engine Light came on, then off. I have it check anyway. The Code Reader shows Trouble Code P072 - Torque Converter Circuit Stuck On. Can anybody tell me what it is? And what need to be done to fix it? Thanks. :confuse:">
  • azuazu Member Posts: 84
    The rear window washer is not putting out any fluid. Is there a seperate pump from the front? The front works fine. If not I would suspect a loose/broken hose somewhere.
  • azuazu Member Posts: 84
    I am going to answer my own post.

    There are two pumps in the reservoir, one for front and one for back. I found my problem, it was a disconnected line just before the firewall. I love easy fixes!!
  • azuazu Member Posts: 84
    I have a 99 and wonder if there is anyway to drain any moisture accumulation in the compressor and/or shock. Since it has been below freezing I am getting a knocking noise from the rear suspension, like that of a bad shock, for about 5-30 minutes depending on the temp. I suspect that the shock has frozen water in it.
  • azuazu Member Posts: 84
    To replace this do you need to roll the engine forward or can you access the back of the intake manifold up on a lift?
  • azuazu Member Posts: 84
    It has slowing started dimming and now it is barley visible. Is there a bulb that went out possibly? This is on a 99 model.
  • matt21191matt21191 Member Posts: 1
    hi im having a couple of issues. first my van blew a head gasket. so i redid the heads. new gaskets, had them checked everything. oh yeah it has a 3.4 v6 in it. put it back together. started it the whole top end is chattering like really loud runs. but is loud. also am getting a #2 missfire code. please help!!! thanks, matt
  • hhua1hhua1 Member Posts: 41
    Our 2000 Silhouette, 100K miles, had these ABS and Traction Control Off warning lights solid on recently. Read the error code and it was clear, no error codes. Checked both tail light assemblies wiring and they looked fine. Checked the driver side speed sensor wiring inside the driver side front wheel and it looked ok.

    Finally checked the passenger side front wheel speed sensor wiring, found it was broken, the mounting clip fell off and the wires rubbed against the frame and eventually the wires broke. Soldered the broken wires, with additional wires, back to the connector. Reconnect the connector and fixed the problem.
  • 99oldsvan99oldsvan Member Posts: 1
    Hello

    i have a 1999 olds van with 297K km on it and have had the transmission rebuilt about 3000 km ago but now it seems that it needs a new gas filter cause this has happened a few times and is now to the point i cannot go above 80 km/h once i reach that speed the car starts to jerk back and forth as if it is running out of gas but i have a half tank

    does anyone have any other suggestions besides trying to change the gas filter .. then the fuel pump ?

    any help would be muchly appreciated

    P.S can you also tell me where the gas filter is ?
  • vandrvrvandrvr Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2001 Olds Silhouette. Just had the front and rear brakes done (2 weeks ago). I noticed a small squeek coming from the passenger front wheel but didn't think anything of it. Yesterday while driving in the highway the whole front end started shimying wildly. It felt like a wheel was about to come off. I pulled both front wheels and checked the linkage by shaking. Everything seemed solid. Wheels back on, I took it for a test drive and the shimy is still there. Now even at slower speeds it shakes the whole front. When I got back home I noticed that the front passenger wheel was extremely hot. The rim was so hot I could not touch it without burning my hand. Could the shimy and heat be the result of a botched brake job?
  • g302silhouetteg302silhouette Member Posts: 2
    Sounds like a bad wheel bearing. I just replaced both the fronts on my 02 Silhouette. Jack the car up and if you can wiggle the tire you have your diagnosis. I also replaced the struts. The car rides like new.
  • my5kiddosmy5kiddos Member Posts: 1
    HELP!!!!!

    I've had this car a little over a year and has been a great car until a month or so ago. It all started with spitting and spurtting. Mechanic said it was a random misfire and that a part (sorry can't remember which is was) had to be replaced. Cool that problem fixed.

    close to 2 weeks or so later new problem popped up. If the car got hot or driven from work to the grocery store (1 mile away) did my shopping (what 30 mins tops) the car wouldn't start. It would turn over and sound like it would start but wouldn't. Left it overnight and it started right up the next morning. Took it to the mechanic he said the sensor needed to be changed. Changed the sensor, same thing happened again. Thankfully I was still in town and close to home. Left it overnight again and it started right up the next morning. Took it back to the mechanic he said it needs the crank shaft sensor. After that same thing happened same day I got it back. This time I was stuck at lunch 3 miles from work. Called the mechanic he said it has to be the module. I purchased the module, he put it in drove it from his shop to work (1 mile if that far) left it overnight (had a meeting and was scared it would happen again) came to work the next morning went to take it when I left for lunch it won't start. It has now been down for 2 weeks won't start just sounds like it wants too. took it to a different mechanic (thankfully next door to my work) and he has looked at it for the last 2 weeks checking the same parts the other mechanic put in and cannot figure out what it is. Any ideas??? any suggestions??? I'm at a loss and out of $$ to keep spending on it. Thanks Jen :cry: :confuse:
  • azuazu Member Posts: 84
    I had a misfire that I thought was transmission problem. Took it to a shop and they said it was transmission. I took it to a GM dealer and they found problem right away. It was a melted crankshaft sensor wiring harness. and not transmission. I would take it to a GM dealer as they know these vehicles well.
  • ncostelloncostello Member Posts: 11
    Did your vehicle have a check engine light illuminated in the instrument panel? If not, that's ok because the on board computer (PCM) stores diagnostic trouble codes and readiness flags that can be observed with an OBD scan tool. Ask your mechanic if he used a scan tool to diagnose the problem.
    The first thing to do is scan the computer. Check for a blown fuse in the fuel system including the fuel relay. Check battery voltage and at the battery and resistance at all grounding points that directly return to the battery. This would be an ohm check.
    The fuel and air filters along with spark plugs should be inspected. Have the fuel pressure checked at the fuel pump. The PCM could be faulty or have an insufficient ground. Two weeks is too long. Ask around about a good mechanic that is reasonably priced. The dealership is highway robbery. A good mechanic can diagnose your van and at half the price per hour than the dealer who uses the same methods. Do not pay the current mechanic for he has not fixed anything and tow the van to a shop people suggest. Check the Internet for reputable shops in your area. Good luck.">link title
  • ncostelloncostello Member Posts: 11
    The #2 cylinder has a rocker arm that wasn't correctly tourqued during reassembly. The arm came loose and one of the pushrods has shifted from correct position. Or pushrods could have been installed in the wrong position. If this is the case you have a part failure in the 2 cylinder. Pushrod bent, valve stem damage, and possibly camshaft damage.
Sign In or Register to comment.

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles