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I'm interested in what you found out on your wiper motor. I have the same exact problem, as of this morning. Do I have to put a whole new motor in, or just some part? It's strange that it works at high speed only.
Joe
The new battery cured it.
1999 Silo with 103,000 miles.
For those who care, this car has good car with a few problems. It's held up very well, looks and runs excellent.
http://www.carspace.com/blogs/happymom13/My-Crappy-Van
Highlights from my blog:
We drove home, up the mountain again (45 minutes and 3'000 ft), with no problems. The next day it over heated faster than usual and there was liquid on the ground and all over the top of the engine. Looked like you poured milk on the engine and it boiled off. There was green coolant everywhere on the engine too.
The main "tube" connecting the coolant tank to the engine had come loose and melted a hole in the side. The mechanic said he replaced all the tubes because they were leaking. Great job buddy! :mad:
It took 3 days to get the $30 tube, but the day after we installed that, the van stalled on my on my way home, turning onto our street. I tried to start it and it wasn't turning. :confuse:
My husband brought it home and looked at the oil ... THERE WAS WATER IN THE ENGINE!!! :sick:
Dammit ... the oil looked like a cafe latte, a creamy coffee color, and it reached halfway up the oil dipstick. :lemon:
What should I sell it for? There's a couple dents in the body, not bad, the brake light casing (the red plastic) is busted, the automatic side door won't open by itself, but it closes just fine, the passenger side window motor is out (may be just a fuse, I don't know), and the two auto unlock key chains need new batteries. NONE of these problems are our fault by the way!
Lowest price quote I've found is $800, highest is $1000. Keep in mind, there are almost brand new snow tires on it now, and a set of almost new tires in the back, that counts for something, right?
You drove a 12 year old car that you got for free that is known to overheat up a mountain and it overheated. AND you're put out because it overheated when you drove it up a mountain knowing it has a problem with overheating and it overheated.
That sure sounds like a lemon to me...
:sick:
It sounds like you cooked the motor so badly that the coolant just dumped into the crank case and it hydro locked. I'm sure it didn't have anything to do with driving it up a mountian with an overheating issue.
I think I need to go outside and have a good scream about now.
This car is a heating/cooling nightmare. Electrical too. Just take a look at all the service bulletins on it.
Run run run! :lemon:
Steve
Steve
model year. 3.4l E engine. Approx 140,000 mi. I have a series of
questions related to this vehicle. With in previous 6 mos., 25 total
miles added to distance traveled, and approx. 20 hrs. of engine time
elapsed it has been through the ringer. Great looking inside and out.
comfy and pleasant to operate. Just can't quite get it smoothed out.
Several hours of actual troubleshooting invested. New lower intake
man. gasket, new after market (not original equip.) fuel pump and fuel
quantity sending unit, coolant flush, 2 oil changes, Lucas brand fuel
system cleaner added to fuel, New OEM leads and plugs, New after
market coil pack for 1 & 4 cylinder, air filter, thermostat, vacuum
lines and fittings, used fuel pres. reg., used MAF sns., used TP sns.
All installed used parts ops checked good. Pulse light check on
injectors seemed good. What should be done from here?
Knowing that the #1 cylinder was low when conventional compression test was administered I proceeded with a differential compression test. I set the piston to TDC on the compression stroke and regulated 90 psi into the cylinder. The cylinder held every bit of 90 psi. I rotated the crank to achieve TDC of the exhaust stroke and again regulated 90 psi into the cylinder. And again the cylinder held all of 90 psi.
Back to the conventional method. The very first time I cranked the engine and started building pressure the gauge barely flickered. Then I ran through the procedures again. 20 psi. On the third consecutive test on the #1 cylinder it held pressure. All the way to 120 psi. So I tested it again. 20 psi. And again 20 psi. I did this 6 times consecutively and got the same, 20 psi. On the 9Th try the cylinder held 120 psi. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
For the 2nd year in a row the A/C has failed.
Last year a recharge lasted more than 2 months ....
this year the recharge lasted about 5-6 weeks...
Same shop decided this year the problem was a 'core' leak...
cost to repair $1000 ????
What are the most common A/C issues with Silhouette ???
I figured a line leak going to the rear unit?
Core leak seemed a stretch as it wasn't 'found' last year.
Am I just being paranoid... :surprise:
ONE OF THE BACK A FRAME IS BENT AND IT GOSE THREW A TIRE EVERY SIX MONTHS AS SOON AS I FIX THE PROBLEM WITH MY NOISEY LIFTER ON MY VAN I AM PLANNING ON REPLACEING THAT AND GET A FOUR WHEEL ALLINMENT JOB DONE.
THE CAR HANDLES FINE IT JUST GOSE THREW A LOT OF TIRES
I HAVE HAD MINE FOR FIVE YEARS NEVER HAD A PROBLEM UNTILL A YEAR AGO AT ONE HUNDRED AND FIFTY SIX THOUSAND MILES IT BLEW UP SO I REBUILT THE MOTER I AM HAVE A FEW ISUES LATELY BUT I WOULD BUY ANOTHER ONE I A MINUTE
There are two pumps in the reservoir, one for front and one for back. I found my problem, it was a disconnected line just before the firewall. I love easy fixes!!
Finally checked the passenger side front wheel speed sensor wiring, found it was broken, the mounting clip fell off and the wires rubbed against the frame and eventually the wires broke. Soldered the broken wires, with additional wires, back to the connector. Reconnect the connector and fixed the problem.
i have a 1999 olds van with 297K km on it and have had the transmission rebuilt about 3000 km ago but now it seems that it needs a new gas filter cause this has happened a few times and is now to the point i cannot go above 80 km/h once i reach that speed the car starts to jerk back and forth as if it is running out of gas but i have a half tank
does anyone have any other suggestions besides trying to change the gas filter .. then the fuel pump ?
any help would be muchly appreciated
P.S can you also tell me where the gas filter is ?
I've had this car a little over a year and has been a great car until a month or so ago. It all started with spitting and spurtting. Mechanic said it was a random misfire and that a part (sorry can't remember which is was) had to be replaced. Cool that problem fixed.
close to 2 weeks or so later new problem popped up. If the car got hot or driven from work to the grocery store (1 mile away) did my shopping (what 30 mins tops) the car wouldn't start. It would turn over and sound like it would start but wouldn't. Left it overnight and it started right up the next morning. Took it to the mechanic he said the sensor needed to be changed. Changed the sensor, same thing happened again. Thankfully I was still in town and close to home. Left it overnight again and it started right up the next morning. Took it back to the mechanic he said it needs the crank shaft sensor. After that same thing happened same day I got it back. This time I was stuck at lunch 3 miles from work. Called the mechanic he said it has to be the module. I purchased the module, he put it in drove it from his shop to work (1 mile if that far) left it overnight (had a meeting and was scared it would happen again) came to work the next morning went to take it when I left for lunch it won't start. It has now been down for 2 weeks won't start just sounds like it wants too. took it to a different mechanic (thankfully next door to my work) and he has looked at it for the last 2 weeks checking the same parts the other mechanic put in and cannot figure out what it is. Any ideas??? any suggestions??? I'm at a loss and out of $$ to keep spending on it. Thanks Jen :confuse:
The first thing to do is scan the computer. Check for a blown fuse in the fuel system including the fuel relay. Check battery voltage and at the battery and resistance at all grounding points that directly return to the battery. This would be an ohm check.
The fuel and air filters along with spark plugs should be inspected. Have the fuel pressure checked at the fuel pump. The PCM could be faulty or have an insufficient ground. Two weeks is too long. Ask around about a good mechanic that is reasonably priced. The dealership is highway robbery. A good mechanic can diagnose your van and at half the price per hour than the dealer who uses the same methods. Do not pay the current mechanic for he has not fixed anything and tow the van to a shop people suggest. Check the Internet for reputable shops in your area. Good luck.">link title