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Yes I've had the same rear boot water leak. Also have moisture around VIN number when it rains-dealer still can't find that leak. The body seams between the firewall and passanger compartmet had leaked for some time. Had sever mold and rust problems even the VCR went out as result. The entire interior (dash, trim ect.)were gutted in the van to attempt to fix problem. Fenders were removed as well. It took them more than a week to gut and reassemble. Trying to get a new van out of the deal but hit nothing but brick walls.
I would be intrested of hearing about similar problems in the Sil, Vent, Mont.
-Dan
JC
I am currently forced to do an oil consumption test since I change my own oil and the dealer has no documentation. There is just over 37,000 miles on it. My wife was driving and a light came on. She thought it was the low coolant indicator and drove it immediately to the dealer(roughly 35,500 miles). The service advisor also thought it was the coolant light. Checking the coolant and finding adequate level a tech looked and the problem and said it was the oil light. ( glad the service advisor does not work on cars any more).
They dumped 2 quarts in and told her to keep an eye on the oil level. The oil had only been changed only 1500 miles prior to this happening. I had to bring the van in a few weeks later after the light came on again.
Currently the car has about 800 miles on the test and shows a little more than 1/2 quart low. I found no evidence of oil in the coolant and no leaks. Olds says that "normal" consumption should be no more than 1 qt per 2000 miles. This is per their service bulletin. That's insane! My Buick Skyhawk with 150,000 miles on it didn't burn that much.
Has anyone used after-market shocks, springs or suspension dampening components to tighten up the ride? Would tires with a firmer sidewall improve the ride? Brand names and model numbers of these components would be appreciated.
Thank you.
Thanks
I posted about a month ago with the same question to the board. I brought my 2001 in for inspection and repair and they supposedly found leaks about the fender (front, driver side) and the windshield (by the vin number). I removed the flooring prior to this 4 day "visit" and there was puddled water about the rubber and sponge insulation/flooring including rust about the middle console support. I'm bringing it in again for another look and will fill you in next week. I bought the van in December; maybe when it was built a body seam was not formed/folded or welded correctly. Let us know if you have (had) any luck finding the origin of your leak.
Q1234
Somewhere, there is a article as to what consitutes a new van in terms of mileage on the clock such as 250. This van must have be used as an employee demo and your warranty miles are reduced to 31800.
I should determine how these miles were accumulated and also ask that if he wants new van pricing he should put in writing that he will cover the warranty until 41200 miles.
Worth checking around Edmunds site to see if you can find anything
Sorry I couldn't be of more help.
At 1500 miles I took it to the dealer to check the alignment. They said it was off and adjusted it. At 3500 miles I noticed the tires starting to get uneven tread wear. Back to the dealer and they checked it again and found that the alignment was off again. (toe & camber) Reset again. They said that the alignment rack was misadjusted. At 5000 I took it to another Old's dealer and they found the alignment was off (toe & camber). They reset it. At 7500 miles I went back to the first dealer and complained that they had caused my tires to wear uneven and they replaced the entire set with new tires.
Throughout this ordeal the factory service people at Old's were not much help. They claim warranties don't cover workmanship problems caused by the dealer and wouldn't even try and help me out as a negotiator.
Other than that I have not had the water leaks everyone else seems to be having. But do get a fair amount of road/wind noise along with cheap plastic type rattles coming from the rear part of the van.
By the way I drove the Honda van before buying the Old's and it had more road/wind noise. Plus the dealer had stuck $5k worth of junk on the van as dealer added extras. This is over the sticker price which they would not budge on.
So far so good with the overall value of the Olds. Trade in value in 2 years may be a different story.
But I have to spend some serios time checking for the rattles and stuff coming from the rear area. Drives me nuts!!
I am checking out the speakers and side panels. The rear bumper seems to be OK. But I did find the front bumper screws were loose and had provided some irritating noises.
He said that Old's sales are stronger than ever.
Maybe GM over reacted by creating it's demise?
I know what you mean. If you stand on the bumper it will scratch. A nice pice of ribbed rubber would stop that and also give some "traction" when standing on the bumper.
Mikey
Item...............MSRP.....Invoice....GMO(my price)
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Base ......... 35450.00 .. 32082.25 .. 30487.00
Options ........ 675.00 .... 580.50 .... 560.25
Destination .... 655.00 .... 655.00 .... 655.00
Advertising ...... 0.00 .... 361.25 ...... 0.00
--------------------------------------------------------------------
Total ....... $36780.00 . $33679.00 . $31702.25
Plus, we get to use one of our $1500 Oldsmobile loyalty coupons and get the 5 year warranty (we normally drive about 10,000 miles a year).
Options List (we got literally everything)
YF5 - California emmisions
ABG - 6 passenger seating (all captains chairs)
UC6 - 6 CD in-dash changer
V92 - towing package
Y11 - gold package
VK3 - front license plate bracket
K05 - engine block heater
Indigo Blue exterior with Mocha Two-Tone leather interior
Has anyone had a similar experience with their Silo?
Thanks
I didn't have your exact problem with my 2001 Olds Silo Premiere, but when I picked it up from the dealer, I did notice the steering wheel was cocked slightly to the right even when the vehicle was tracking straight. I had the dealer realign the steering wheel. Now it seems fine.
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Once the remote control door lock receiver enters the programming/diagnostic mode, the programming of the first transmitter erases all previous transmitter programming information, requiring the programming of all transmitters.
Program only 1 vehicle remote control door lock receiver at a time. If more than 1 receiver is being programmed at the same time, it is possible that the same transmitter could be programmed to more than 1 remote control door lock receiver.
Perform the following steps in order to program the transmitter:
· Remove the ignition key from the ignition lock cylinder.
· Remove the BCM PRGRM fuse from the fuse panel. Refer to Fuse Block diagram.
· Close all of the doors.
· Close the liftgate.
· Turn the ignition lock cylinder to ACC.
· Turn the ignition lock cylinder to OFF, and then back to ACC within 1 second. Open and close any vehicle door. A chime will be heard when the system enters the BCM programming/diagnostic mode.
Important
After 7 seconds, a chime may be heard confirming successful synchronization. It is necessary to wait approximately 14 seconds for a second chime that will confirm successful programming.
· Press and hold the transmitter LOCK and UNLOCK buttons simultaneously for 14 seconds.
· Repeat the previous step on each additional transmitter to be programmed.
· Remove the ignition key from the ignition lock cylinder.
· Install the BCM PRGRM fuse back into the fuse panel. Refer to Fuse Block diagram.
Important: Be careful and be sure which fuse you pull.