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Comments
Does anyone know if the Jetta's 1.8T is going up to 170hp like the Audi's and the New Passat's did, next year? If so, I wonder what they're going to do with the VR6? One can only dream.
My gripe is - why didn't they find it before you got it? Nobody checked the front end at the factory? The dealer just puts them out without looking? The service tech didn't see anything wrong with the strut the first visit? The answer is yes, of course, to all questions. I think the auto makers need to do better to insulate the customer from quality problems.
Great car, however. Good luck with it.
2000 GLS 1.8T, loaded. Perfect car!! Most fun I've ever had driving (even more than my old RX-7)!! Two things have gone wrong. 1) A leaky valve core - dlr replaced valve core and stem. 2) Stuck cupholder in rear - dlr unjammed, said use very light touch when opening (those German overengineer everything)!! Is that enough? No bad tranny, no bad O2 sensor, no failed pwr accessories, no NOTHIN'! I LOVE THIS CAR...
I used to own a 2000 GLS w/the 2.0 (it crashed and died - no human injuries). Why do people bad mouth this engine?
"It is severely underpowered (115 hp) and too old of technology."
Check the torque, 122 at a low 2600 rpm - NO Japanese car has that much usable torque down that low. Translates into better zip than more hp at higher rpm. So what if 2-valve/cylinder technology has been around for a while. It's a bulletproof design that will last for 300,000 miles if cared for properly. An enginve full of valves and new technology doesn't make it better!
Stephen
Tyler
Regarding the warrantee, I just got an extended 5/60 B-to-B warrantee on my Passat for $767. Keep in mind, it is more car (no slight on the Jetta), so one should expect to pay slightly more for a Passat warrantee, but I doubt much more. If it is a 7/100, I would be a bit skeptical on the yr/mileage ratio. 12k per year is typically the standard, so what happened? In fact, 12k/yr is conservative in terms of actual miles driven these days, but it is accepted in the "warrantee world." I would keep the 12k/yr ratio in mind, then calculate the life (and therefore, value) of the warrantee based on the smaller number. Example, for the 7/100, I would value it the same as a 7/84. For a 7/60, I would value it the same as 5/60. Of course these aren't absolutes, but it will help you keep from overpaying for the warrantee.
Regarding the $21,500 price: Is the dealer asking $390 for the CD player? They did here. A blatant gouge, but what are you going to do? Anyway, I got it for $290 (which doesn't make me feel like dancing, but I would have gone without one before paying $390 for a simple motor, laser and a few wires in a 5"x6" box). So if you know that people have bought the same color car (dealer flexibility changes with demand), with the same options, for $20,500, then $21,790 is certainly in the ball park for your car and target price. It wouldn't hurt to go in (let them run your credit if it's good so they know you are in a position to buy), refer to the sticker price ($21,500) and and say, "I'll take it at that price today, but the car has got to have the x/xx warrantee and a CD player or it's just not a smart purchase for me." You already know you are close. Whether they kick it around before saying No, or just go straight to "No", the only way you're going to know whether or not it's do-able is to walk. Politely ask for one of their cards, write the car/color/options/warr/CD on the back with your phone number and say, "Fair enough. Give me a call if you change your mind." and walk. If they don't call you within a week, then it's too low. Come back with a new sales guy and start again.
And don't feel you have to come in with your tail between your legs. I think that having a confident idea of their approximate bottom-line price is useful, and it certainly answers your original question. If you're not at risk of losing an already great car deal on the car you want in the next week and aren't in a hurry (which isn't a good state of mind to buy a car anyway), then this path isn't so unreasonable.
Finally, if you go to a dealer that is known for moving inventory quickly, they are probably in a better position to take less profit per car...doesn't mean they will, but it was clearly the case in my last experience.
Sorry for the novel.
hope it helps.
I would love to see or hear what others have heard so far...
Regards from a dedicated Cabrio owner.
available with both the 1.8T & VR6....
I wonder if I had this in my hand I could get them down to a 25% mark up?
My VR6 auto has had it ever since I bought it. After reading comments here and on the Vortex I finally took it to the dealer and reported it. The dealer said it was operating within specifications and nothing was wrong.
So now it's been officially noted that I reported it should anything happen in the future. The transmission has operated flawlessly over 24,000 miles now and the whine doesn't bother me as long as it's not indicative of some future major failure, which evidently it is not.
and *Locate a Dealer*...put in the radius that you are willing to travel. Once these Dealers come up; email the Internet Sales Manager with your Specs & Offer...this should be a no brainer
for the VW Dealers in Jersey that you select...
if you are looking for a 5 Speed...An Automatic at your price might be tough, but who knows????
Good Luck from Essex Fells and Sea Girt....
Thanks for the email and I don't think it's too long to post here, just make it a two parter. I would like to comment but will wait until you post and others can see.
What about the motor noise in the cabin? and the velour interiors seats ?I. have been told that this car runs like a plane, is that true?
Warning: Do not drink a lot of coffee before going down there. Be firm. It's your money. But, be calm. Let them know that you're considering another dealer.
Lastly, be calm. And if they speak of a longer wait, ask for a loaner for your troubles until you get your car.
You need to reduce your conversations to ONLY your salesperson or the sales manager. The other sales people could give a rat's butt about you. Car salespeople are EXTREMELY competitive and they sometimes do nasty things to compromise another salesperson's deals, so quit talking to anyone else.
Did I mention to be calm? ;-) Seriously though, try it. If that doesn't work then tell them to screw off, get your money back and go to the other dealer. The drive might be worth it.
Good luck.
-Jim
http://www.jettaownersclub.org
http://www.bluelagoonjetta.com
Of course excessive whine is annoying, therefore most cars have helical gears with some amount of "helix-ness". But the only goal of eliminating transmission whine by using helical gears is quietness, as opposed to durability or performance. Whining is therefore normal.
Now, if our transmission is wearing out, a good clue is to notice large amounts of metal shavings in the transmission fluid. On the same token, most new transmissions release some shavings during the break-in period, but after that the amount is hardly noticeable or non-existent.
Drew
Host
Vans, SUVs, and Aftermarket and Accessories message boards
Other than buying leather (obviously, but thanks), does
anyone have a real solution to getting large
amounts of lint off the Jetta seats? Vacuuming and
lint brushes aren't working.
Thanks!
But seriously, we have this same problem with puppy hair in our Caravan. How that puppy drives the Caravan I'll never know...
My wife found something called a "Lint Eraser" that looks like a mustard-colored brick, but it's spongy and rubbery, and darned if it doesn't pick the stuff right up. Can't swear to it, but I think she got it at Home Depot!
Best of luck,
Mark
P.S.: The leather thing is probably an easier solution!!!
Mark