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Comments
Question on wife's 2003 VW Jetta 2.0 wagon, 16,600 miles.
Just serviced two weeks ago (VW dealership oil change). Check engine light came on today. I have not been able to witness yet but looking for any similar stories. No apparent problems.
And now there is talk of GM filing for bankruptcy...
As for the CEL on your wifes VW, that is an indicator that a problem-code has been logged into the memory of the engine-computer. Unfortunatly, It takes a computer to "read" the code so you can see what the problem is.
That would take a VW dealer or a VAG-COM (software loaded into a laptop computer)
I still like my Dodge in that respect - turn the key from "off-on-off-on-off-on" (without turning starter) and the console display turns into the diagnostic readout display. I can read the codes from my Dodge in this way.
Also, as far as oil is concerned, I would go with a 10w30 or 10w40 during the fall/winter months and a 15-weight oil or 20w50 during the summer. A lighter weight oil in these engines will have the viscosity of water during the hotter months.
No heat at idle REALLY sounds like the waterpump is not moving any fluid.
There is a KNOWN issue of some waterpumps with the plastic impeller not working properly. The shaft slips inside the impeller causing reduced water flow thru the engine. One person reported that his plastic-impellerd waterpump SEEMED to have the impeller snug -- UNTIL HE SOAKED IT IN HOT WATER. Then the impeller would slip easilly on the shaft.
Since your waterpump is relatively new, I suspect that may be the issue. Many folks recommend selecting a waterpump with a METAL impeller which do not seem to have that problem.
A leaking head gasket can cause overheating. I also suggest you perform a bleeddown test. This will tell you for certain if the head-gasket is leaking. Most autoparts stores have a bleeddown tester available as a loan. (about $70 kit if you purchase it)
If a bleeddown test fails -- then you need to re-assess how much you are willing to spend to fix it.
A head gasket can fail in many different ways such as BETWEEN:
outside and coolant
outside and oil
cylinder and coolant
cylinder and oil
cylinder and outside
oil and coolant
The one that you may have is "cylinder and coolant" wheras the pressure of combustion can overpressurize the antifreeze and cause it to spew out... then overheat due to low antifreeze.
Another sign of a "cylinder and coolant" leak can be a hard-starting engine. This is because after shutting down the engine, the pressure of the coolant can seep into a cylinder filling it with coolant. It is often dificult to start an engine with one cylinder filled with coolant.
Also, you can pull the sparkplugs and do plug readings. (I assume you know about how to take plug readings) Look for a plug that is wet with antifreeze.
Another check you can do is open the resivour bottle (CAREFULLY) and look for a steady stream of coolant flowing from the small hose that is plugged into the side of it. That hose should be "peeing" coolant at all times the engine is running.
Please consider doing a bleeddown test. It will tell you FOR SURE if tthe antifreeze is not leaking internally.
Being trained as an engineer (see my bio) has taught me to TEST and get REAL FACTS about a problem. Guessing is not the best way to troubleshoot a problem.
Yes 2.0 is OHC.
cost --who knows? we dont know what the problem is yet.
there is no way to replace head gasket without pulling head. (but we dont know if this is the problem)
Did you even READ MY PAST APPENDS about the bleeddown test kit?. It just temporarrly replaces the coolant cap with one that has a hose connected to a hand pump and guage. It is a LONAR TOOL from an autoparts store. You simply pump to about 10 -14 PSI to the cooling system, then you let it sit overnight to see if it leaks the pressure.
Waterpump not pumping.
First, make sure that the cooling system is filled with liquid and bled of any air pockets. (the waterpump WILL NOT PUMP if it is surrounded by an airpocket) This also means turning the heat on HIGH and making sure that the heater-core is also filled with liquid.
Do you see the small hose "peeing" into the xpansion tank while the engine is idling? (oftentimes this can even be seen thru the tank wall without opening it.)
doesnt the water pump usually leak when its not functioning properly?
No!, just like a head gasket, there are several failure modes for a waterpump. If the seal goes bad, it can leak. If the impeller breaks or is not connected to the shaft, it may not move coolant thru the system.
while it over heats the oil pressure light comes on...is this because the oil in to thinned out from the heat of the engine?
That sounds like the most likely case...but it may be somthing else.
how do you make sure the system is bled of air?
There are several ways to do this. The design of the cooling system must be taken into account. SInce VW uses a bypass cooling system, it is kind of tricky.
I usually pull off the upper radiator hose from the engine block and add antifreeze TO THE HOSE as it is pointed into the air until it comes out the engine-block. The cap to the resivour should be LEFT OFF and the engine reved gently-- add coolant as it gets sucked into the system. Oftentimes, it takes several heatup/cooldown cycles to burp the system completely.
Judging from your description of the problem, you are driving the vehicle BEFORE it has been burped of air. DO NOT JUST FILL THE RESIVOUR AND DRIVE! If you continue to let it overheat, you WILL blow the headgasket and perhaps even warp the head.
I have some questions for you.
Does the heater work at all?
Is that hose on the side of the resevour "peeing" coolant into the tank?
Does the upper radiator hose get hot ot the touch?
Do the heatercore hoses get hot to the touch?
I can think of several reasons for low/no flow.
1) air in system
2) some kind of blockage
3) waterpump not pumping (impeller slipping on the shaft)
Do not forget that mixing NON volkswagen-specified antifreeze in the system can cause gelling and lead to blockage of the small passageways.
Unfortunately, replacing the waterpump means that the timing belt must be removed. The labor costs to do this job is not cheep and a new timing belt should be fitted at the same time. Many folks recommend replacing the tensionor pully too.
If the antifreeze is blue - you need to use the G11 antifreeze.
If the antifreeze is pink - you need to use the G12 antifreeze.
It is very important that you use the correct antifreeze that was originally used in the automobile (do not mix any of the three antifreezes with each other) - otherwise gel will form in the engine water passages.
I just finished working on my 1994 jetta that had the same mystery overheating problem over a month ago.
Before you et into any big expenses here are a few thing to checkout first. Leaking head gasket.
1). test for Hydrocarbon in the antiffreeze (its a device that holds a liquid that changes color when hydrocarbons is detected in the antifreeze Napa Auto parts has the kit very inexpensive)
Here is how it works, you fill the device with the special indicator fluid place the rubber stopper in place of you expansion tank cap, start the engine and allow it to reach normal operating temp
coolant fumes will into the line in the rubber stop and bubble through the indicator liquid. if the color changes there is combustion fumes in your water jacket. (Conclusion leakyhead gasket)
2). check the thermostat in may not be opening fully restricting coolant flow through the engine.
3). Partially clogged radiator ( this could prevent hot coolant from reaching the tempreture switch on the far side of the radiator that operates the fans). Since you replace the radiator that can't be the problem but did you re attached the wires to the temp switch on the radiator
4). Second speed of the cooling fan may not be tripping in due to a blown fuse ( which is right before the expansion tank. Check fuse there)
5). The the little over flow hose from the expansion to the engine might be clogged causing excessive pressure to build up in the system when hot and revent the coolant from circulating
6). VW are known for how difficult it is to get trapped air out of the cooling system. Follow the proper proceedure to bleed air out of the system
This is coming from a person who has owned VWs for over 23 years - and currently owns three of them (1997 and two 2003s). This should tell you something....
Caveat Emptor...
If all they can tell you is "coil packs", "window regulator" and "oil consumption" then they are standing on weak ground.
The "coil pack" and "" Window regulator" issues were all supposed to be repaired by VW by now. A one time deal. (and only on specifc vehicles anyway)
The "oil consumption" is not a big deal either, It certainly does not harm the engine in any way. Any prudent driver will check their oil and top off when needed. So this is not really a problem either.
Personally, my own 2 daughters have purchased and LOVE their 2001 VWs. Sure- one of them consumes some oil -- SO WHAT??. There was no surprise to her when she discoverd that her beloved little Golf consumes some oil. My daughter is intelligent enough to check and top off the oil when needed.
Her last car (A Honda) consumed oil, brakes, shocks, radiator, power-steering components, several exhaust sytems and many other things.-- so adding a bit of oil occasionally to her "new" VW is actually a WELCOME improvement over that.
Make no mistake about it I am not saying that VWs are "more reliable" than Asian vehicles. Asian makes are designed to be practically ignored... and return boorring point-to-point transportation. VWs need to be maintained per the owners manual.... the reward is a FUN TO DRIVE car that is more like a close friend than a mundane machine.
You need to decide for yourself what you expect to get out of a vehicle. It is a very personal decision that only you can make (Given the proper expectations from the vehicle you decide is best for you.)
More to the point, I own a 2003 VW Jetta TDI ( 53,000) miles and a 2004 Honda Civic( 9600 miles) side by side. Ask away.
Oil consumption - 1999-2001 2.0 liter engine - due to a bad batch of piston rings from their supplier, these engines consumed oil at a higher rate than normal - a good friend of mine experienced this on his 1999 Jetta. I have a 1997 Jetta with the same engine and no oil consumption problems at 135K miles.
Coil packs - 1998 through early 2003 1.8T (Bosch J-series coilpacks and earlier) - Again,
due to a bad batch from their supplier, these coils experienced a higher than normal failure rate. If the car has been retrofitted with coil packs newer than the J-series, you should be fine.
Window regulators - 1999 through 2002 Golfs and Jettas - The owners of these cars experienced their windows falling inside the doors. This is due to the fact that some genious at VWdecided to replace the metal clips that secured the windows (which VW had used as far back to my 1975 VW Scirocco) with plastic ones. Only after VW decided to go back to the metal clips that the window regulator issue was resolved.
And one more thing: Coming from an engineering, automotive maintenance and aircraft maintenance background, not only have I owned VWs for over 23 years, I've also done everything from bodywork to full engine rebuilds on them. So I think I have a little idea of what I'm talking about.... (HINT: 600KGolfGT refers to my 1987 Golf GT which I put over 624,000 miles on in 16 years of ownership)
Let me also add one other lesser-known issue. The MAF sensor has been known to magically go bad.... most often can be traced to an owner installing one of those "oilable - highflow" air filters. The oil from the filter gets sucked into the intak system and destroys the sensitive microscopic surface of the MAF sensor.
I guess my biggest concern is space. Any input on people's experiences would be great, especially from anyone that has an old body style 05' Jetta.
-On that note, anybody already driving the NEW Jetta? Any visits to the shop other than routine? If so, please post your thoughts and experiences...
Do you agree that K&N air filter will jam MAF sensor?
I put this filter on my '97 civic(ex) two years ago and still can go 100 mph (though have to sacrifice some torque at low rpm (1st & 2nd gear)). And there is no problem so far?
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Those oiled-guaze filters are expensive, filter worse, can distrubute oil inside the intake-tract and at the same time manage to provide no meaningful difference in performance. About as close to snake-oil as one can get.
The biggest restriction in your intake system is (by design) the throttlebody. Who cares if the air filter can "flow" more than the throttlebody can allow thu anyway?
Anyone with training in airflow physics grasps this concept. It is called an AIR FILTER and should be expected to FILTER THE AIR....if you want flow why not just REMOVE the air-filter?
Dont take my word for it, you can do the research yourself... or even set up a flowbench and do your own testing. Please post your results on a website so everyone can see that those oiled-gauze filters can actually be damaging over the course of 1000s of miles.
So ... can someone tell me what a "wynns kit" and "e-kit" is and whether it is worth it to pay the dealer's service dept $120 for each of these? I really love my car and want to make sure that it lasts me for years to come but always question whether I'm being taken to the cleaners - especially since I'm a woman! Any info is greatly appreciated!
I have worked on cars for most of my life and have never even heard of the "wynns kit" and "e-kit". What the heck are these?
My VW dealership has NEVER charged more than $300 for any of the service-intervals on my Jetta. (That INCLUDES wheel alignment, synthetic oil, virtually every filter on the vehicle AND a loner car for the day)
You only really need to perform the reccomendations as specified by the manufacturer in the owners manual. Anything beyond that is money leaving your pocket and going into somone elses bank account.
The major, i.e. expensive, components of the service were: throttle body flush, fuel injection system cleaning/flush (wynns kit), emissions/air intake system flush (e-kit) and a brake fluid flush. As to be expected, labor was the overwhelming majority of the expense. I didn't think to check the owner's manual to confirm that all of these were recommended.
I think all of this is recommended again at 80,000 miles.
Aside from what's recommended in the owner's manual (which I'll try to look at tonight), does anyone know whether all of this is required to comply with warranty requirements? I know I purchased the extended warranty when I purchased the car and one of the dealers was adamant that my warrantly would not be good if I didn't complete all of this service.
All thoughts, comments and suggestions greatly appreciated!
So in terms of your "major" expensive items, you DO NOT need T/B flush, FIS flush, e-kit. So if you tally up the cost of these stated items this would indicate what it should HAVE cost.
In terms of warranty compliance it would seem you are doing what needs to be done. The only thing I would make ABSOLUTELY SURE (given VWA almost automatic knee jerk reaction to deny warranty claims and service) is if you have a PD to make sure the dealer is using VW spec 505.01 oil.
A brake fluid flush (again if you know the procedure) costs 5 dollars in brake fluid and at most 1/2 hr of time. The other side of that , if you are not confident in doing this, it makes NO sense to mess with a safety item.