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2000-2011 Chevrolet Malibu

1454648505196

Comments

  • mazdaprofourmazdaprofour Member Posts: 202
    When should I have breaks checked and what brand to replace them with?
  • wpbharrywpbharry Member Posts: 399
    In my next go 'round with careers, expect it to be with a major, well-respected financial firm. And in what capacity, you ask? How does Financial Advisor grab ya? And I expect most of you regulars (even the Hosts) will become my clients. So batten down the hatches. Good times dead ahead.

    reg, yes, I'm pulling the "up at all hours" bit this weekend. 2/3 of the way thru the "big post". I REALLY hate typing!! In your case, specifically, when we sit down and discuss planning for the "babe" and other issues, possibly more "babes", don't get ticked at me. I'll just have to pull the wife off to the side and somehow work into the plan a "little red Corvette" for Dad at 50. Assuming the next biggie (with a zero at the end) is 40.
    You're just gonna have to put up with pushrods and the Maxx for a few years. 'Tis PERFECT for you. And then you can whine amongst friends. Not too bad an elixir.
  • logic1logic1 Member Posts: 2,433
    Your Brewers did the trick! Chicago will be eternally grateful.

    Well, at least until next year anyway. If those Brewers get some pitching, they are downright scary. Sexson can really smack the ball.
  • wpbharrywpbharry Member Posts: 399
    the Sunday Palm Beach Post is a bit overweight. Yanked out Sports first, but these days, that's in 3 sections.

    The Maxx is looking better than ever, escpecially in Orange Fusion Metallic.
  • bcmalibu99lsbcmalibu99ls Member Posts: 625
    should set you back between $200-300 USD, depending on the dealer and the quality of the pads. But if you got warped rotors which keep chewing the pads, then you need new rotors, and it's probably better to get them aftermarket (some people here were praising Raybestos, if I remember correctly).

    By the way, folks, how long should average brake pads last? I know some Japanese cars have them for 100K+, but what is a realistic number?
  • regfootballregfootball Member Posts: 2,166
    there will always be a used 89-95 v6 SHO somewhere on eBay with a stick that will still not be consuming any oil and be as tight as the day she left the lot that I can buy for many thousands less. And it will be more fun than the bu, but that said if my GM card feels abused and needs to get used there's always a 5% chance I would go down in power and engine feel. After all I wouldn't be putting a clutch in every 30,000 miles then. Unless something like a head gasket goes.....oops! Kidding, LOL.

    Who knows maybe my wife will insist on a car with 'launch feel' and the extra utility the Maxx offers. For now, her Diamante will suffice.

    Mazda 6 still calling my name a little louder.
  • dindakdindak Member Posts: 6,632
    Brake life has virtually zero do with the car's point of origin and more to do with the driver's braking habits, type of driving, type and brand of brakes and the design of the braking systems themselves.
  • mazdaprofourmazdaprofour Member Posts: 202
    Alllrigghty folks. I know that you guys talk about a slight vibration in the BU when you break. Mine has that slight vibration whenI do a quik brake in the pedal. I only have 150 miles on my brand new BU.

    1-Should I wait till after 3,000 miles so that the car and breaks can be broken in? or address it now with the dealer.

    2-So what brand of pads are the best? and if I buy my own pads, will the dealer install them for me at what cost?

    Other than that I rally do like this car. I hear some posts about how people do not like the steering but I like it. It is not sporty and not too tight. Feels just right. I was also checking out the fit and finish in this car. I hate to say it, but this car has better fit and finish than my 2003 tacoma that I had and my 2003 civic that I had (yes I have traded a lot of cars in). On my truck, the headlights did not sit the same way, the gaps in the panels where not even. On my civic, the door did not sit the same way on both sides, bumper had uneaven gaps and paint would chip if you sneezed on it.

    This car is starting to grow on me. I just hope that it stays trouble free.
  • logic1logic1 Member Posts: 2,433
    although my morning post is not quite so off topic as it may seem at first.

    Someone, either here or in News and Views once said Chevy would have a competitive mid-size when the Cubs win the world series.

    They aren't there yet, but the play-offs are a good start.

    (maybe we can get Reg on our side by throwing in the Vikings and the Superbowl)
  • according2meaccording2me Member Posts: 236
    Most new cars recommend being gentle with the brakes for a couple hundred miles while the pads are forming to the discs, hard braking is discouraged and leads to premature braking performance issues.

    Most manufacturers will regrind rotors under warranty during the first 12K miles if you experience pulsation. After that you're on your own.

    Really, it's much too early to be considering replacement of your brake pads and going with after market unless you are thinking of autoXing.
  • dindakdindak Member Posts: 6,632
    It could simply be that your brakes need an adjustment. I would bring them in now, no need to wait. according2me is right, you should take it easy on the brakes for a few hundred miles, it says so right in your manual which I suppose most people don't look at.
  • regfootballregfootball Member Posts: 2,166
    DANGIT! IT LOST ANOTHER POST!

    WHAT THE HECK! COULD THESE SERVERS ROT ANY MORE?

    A splendid post down the tubes....AGAIN!

    some Malibu banter, of course

    then some rant on Deknee Green and Vikes losing 2 NFC title games, one to Chris Chandelier (now a Bear) and the Falcons, after Randall is instructed to take 'DeKnee' and Gary Anderson misses his only kick all year. And of course the extreme 41-0 loss to the NY Giants a couple years later.

    Also my unbeaten fantasy team was up 31-10 going into tonights game against my unbeatne opponent and Payton Manning throws SIX TD's and I lose 34-31!?!?!?!?!
  • wpbharrywpbharry Member Posts: 399
    Sorry, buddy, but the Dolphins were off this week, and I basically could care less. I needed a break too.

    Malibu brakes. I totally agree. Take it in NOW. Doesn't sound like you're starting off on the right foot. Once the dealer has "at it", you should be just fine for many happy miles ahead.
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    Harry, what happened to your promised review?
  • johnclineiijohnclineii Member Posts: 2,287
    Whew. I was wondering the same thing. When he said he had had a bad weekend with the hosts, I was afeared they had X'd it (I thought perhaps he had said a bunch of negative things about the Bu....yeah, right).

    Where IS that review? I just hope he hasn't been typing on it full speed for like twenty-seven hours or something!

    (And no, there is no criticism of the hosts in this post or from me, they do a WONDERFUL job, as I have written both them and their superiors many times...moderating here is a tough job, esp with the likes of Harry and me around! :)

    And, oh yeah, here's to you Pat, from our IMPALA days, you will understand:

    MALIBU
  • logic1logic1 Member Posts: 2,433
    We may ask questions about quibbles to verify if the quibbles are subjective or objective, but we want to see the quibbles as much as the praise.

    (Reg: if the Vikes keep playing like they are now, this is not going to be a lost season. They demolished San Fran yesterday. Wow!)
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    mazda: Give it a few thousand miles before you have them checked out. I had my rotors warp at 21k miles and they were replaced under warranty. The front pads went at 28k, not replaced under warranty. I believe the unwrritten policy is if the rotors warp before 12k miles, Chevy will replace both the rotors and the pads. After that point it is just the rotors. Which is understandable since the pads are wear items.

    The malibu is simple to maintain but I've had more warranty work on my 32k mile vehicle then on my last 3 vehicles combined. Also the engne is starting to get the infamous V6 gargle the small blocks are known for. Nothing wrong with it but definitely louder now then last year. It is a nice vehicle but my second year of ownership was not as nice as the first year. I fully expect to have the intake manifod gasket fail. And the tread on my tires are low and will need replacing sometime this spring.

    Good luck on the Malibu. Just keep up the maintennace and keep posting on this board. Most of us can help you if a problem should arise.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    wpbharry: Can you give us a ful review on ONE post? It's really hard to follow your experience esp. amongst the other postings.
  • timg7timg7 Member Posts: 2
    Hi All!

    I have a 99LS with 73,000mi on it.

    I have been reading through this board to find a solution to a problem I have been having, namely the fan controls have stopped running on settings #1 & #2. Numbers 3,4,5 still work. These are the previous messages I have found in this board related to this problem:

    ____________________________________
    #1026 of 2459 AC CONSOLE PROBLEMS by speedy581 Jul 21, 2002 (7:02 pm)
    I have a 99 LS. It seems that the AC panel has its own mind. The AC light (and compressor) turns on and off when it wants to. Same thing with the "recirculated air" button, it likes to switch itself to the "outside air" button. And lastly, the #1 and #2 position of the fan blower doesn't work... all others do.
    I've tried to pinpoint the problem by checking fuses, opening the console and checking switches and wires, but it all looks OK. It seems to me the problem does'nt come from the controls but from somewhere else. Does anyone know of this problem and how to fix it? My warranty ran out.

    #1028 of 2459 speedy581: A/C and fan not working on the 1, 2 speed by yurakm Jul 22, 2002 (5:20 pm)
    is a common problem with Malibu. I had it in summer 2000.
    Just a bad resistor. It was fixed under warranty, but according to paperwork it cost something like $25. 1/2 hour of labor at most.
    The other problems you mentioned is either A/C, or its the lights going on and off by themself. I have no first hand experience, but there was several reports on this board

    #1031 of 2459 to yurakm and czanfardino, thanks. by speedy581 Jul 23, 2002 (1:07 pm)
    Yurakm... do you know where this resistor is located? So that I can replace it.
    czanfardino... I had read your first message regarding this and found it interesting. I don't understand the logic behind it but I might give it a try before going to the dealership or getting a new panel board.
    Anybody else have any suggestions???

    _______________________________

    If I missed any postings or answers, please let me know. I am not possitive that replacing the resistor does/doesn't work. Where is the resistor located, etc?

    Yes, I also have the problem with the A/C controls going in and out, but given my location, I can live with it during the summer, but I HAVE to get this fan control fixed, seeing as fall is here and winter is coming soon!

    Not to rehash old topics, but here is a list of other problems I have had:
    Replace rotors/pads (@37,000 - yeah timing sucks)
    Replace fuel level sensor in the fuel tank
    Replace passenger front bearing
    Replace transmission seal (where C/V joins the tranny, I noticed fluid when changing oil)
    I have also noticed some 'moisture residue' around the intake manifold, but no consistant leaking, and no measurable loss of fluids. And, it's time to change the pads again, probably due to where I live and how I drive. I am almost done with the payments and would love to keep the car a few more years, dispite a few problems.

    Anyways, thank you in advance to anyone who can help.

    Tim G
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    Tim, did you use the "Search This Discussion" feature on the page bar? I just mention it because it is somewhat new, lots of folks overlook it and it is very helpful.
  • wpbharrywpbharry Member Posts: 399
    Yep, had the same problem with mine, over and over again (3 times). So did a friend with his Malibu.

    It IS a fan control issue. Won't be exactly cheap, if you don't have the extended warranty.
  • explorerx4explorerx4 Member Posts: 19,250
    this is kind of scary, but let me get the 'bu part out of the way first. my mom bought an '03 a couple of months ago, so i've been monitoring this board. so far, so good.
    had an 89 sho, for about 3 years. took it up to 6500 rpms in 5th one time, never did the other 500 before the redline though. had a couple other iterations after that one, too.
    fyi saabs, we have a 9-5 se wagon, a 9-5 is 29% german, 22% swedish, according to the sticker.
    2023 Ford Explorer ST, 91 Mustang GT vert
  • regfootballregfootball Member Posts: 2,166
    fine by me. still like that saab. local paper running an ad for new 9-3's today as low as 21,100. +/-
  • bcmalibu99lsbcmalibu99ls Member Posts: 625
    Someone please kindly tell me where exactly it is (next to what, etc), and what should be leaking from it to indicate it wants to be fixed.

    Thank you!
  • timg7timg7 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the reply. Nope, no extended warranty. I do a lot of work myself, and would like to find out exactly needs to be replaced. Is it just the resistor as mentioned in a previous post, or is it the whole fan control switch assembly? Thanks for the clarfication.

    Anyone else have any specifics?
  • wpbharrywpbharry Member Posts: 399
    When you're under the hood, keep a close watch on the coolant level. That was my clue.

    When it starts losing, then the manifold has had it.
  • explorerx4explorerx4 Member Posts: 19,250
    any comments on when to have it done?
    2023 Ford Explorer ST, 91 Mustang GT vert
  • bcmalibu99lsbcmalibu99ls Member Posts: 625
    But I've read that a little bit of coolant would be lost anyway (evaporation?), and that a slight top-up is required maybe once every 6-9 months. If the intake manifold is broken, what would be the rate of the coolant loss?

    Also, what happens if you do not fix the broken intake manifold?

    Thank you!
  • johnclineiijohnclineii Member Posts: 2,287
    a. I have a four year old Impala LS with 135,000 miles. It has yet to lose the first teaspoon of coolant.

    b. If you do not fix a leaking manifold, water gets into the oil, and you will blow a head gasket. This is not good. Can you say $3500? Or so?
  • deminindeminin Member Posts: 214
    I always change the oil and filter after the first 500 to 750 miles. All engines will generate small metal shavings, etc., as the parts break in. Most of them will occur in the first 500 miles, and be trapped in the oil filter. Then, I change it again at 3,000 miles, and every 3,000 after. I really don't trust oil to go 7500 miles like the owners manual states, unless its synthetic. But really, the first oil/filter change is the most important..don't let it go too long. This little bit of extra maintainance has served me well..haven't had an engine go bad on me yet.
  • jtrujillo86jtrujillo86 Member Posts: 300
    Let's take a poll - If you have experienced intake manifold gasket problems, which did you need replaced - the upper or lower intake gasket?

    Mine was the lower, which made it cost a little more since there was more labor involved.

    Jeremy
  • wpbharrywpbharry Member Posts: 399
    GREAT to hear from you again, buddy.

    My gaskets were the lower ones as well.

    bc: Yes, a bit of coolant does evaporate over time. This wasn't that. We're talking major coolant loss, like a quart or so.
  • corsicachevycorsicachevy Member Posts: 316
    I had the lower intake manifold leak on my 3.1V6. I also experienced a significant and rapid loss of coolant. Luckily, I did not experience any engine damage as I have had over 65,000 trouble free miles since the fix.

    This leads me to my question: Was the manifold problem a manufacturing flaw or a design flaw? In other words, can I expect to have this problem crop up again, or is this fix permanent?
  • bcmalibu99lsbcmalibu99ls Member Posts: 625
    Is the coolant loss so rapid that "low coolant" warning light lights up on the dash? If not, how did you find out that you had this intake manifold problem? Thank you!
  • corsicachevycorsicachevy Member Posts: 316
    My coolant loss was quite rapid. I had checked my fluid levels about 10 days earlier and everything was within the normal range. My low coolant light was the first thing that tipped me off. Surprisingly, my temp gauge never indicated that the engine was running hot. That idiot light must be pretty sensitive.
  • dindakdindak Member Posts: 6,632
    Saw on the GM Canada web site today they are offering 24 hour tests on 2004 Chevys and a $500 offer with them. 24 hours with a Bu might be fun!
  • logic1logic1 Member Posts: 2,433
  • sdasda Member Posts: 6,934
    I drive by the Chevy dealership every morning on my drive to work. (Charlotte, NC) Though I have been keeping a sharp eye out to spot a new 04 BU, none sited yet. Is this a staggered roll out? Looking forward to spotting my first 04!

    2018 VW Passat SE w/tech, 2016 Audi Q5 Premium Plus w/tech, 2006 Acura TL w/nav

  • dindakdindak Member Posts: 6,632
    No Malibus at the local dealer yet. Drove by yesterday.
  • wpbharrywpbharry Member Posts: 399
    Had the hood up to add windshield washer fluid. Took the car in for its oil cange and mentioned that I thought the coolant level was low.

    Don't have any idea if this is something that happens again & again.

    Don't plan on having mine long enough to see...
  • logic1logic1 Member Posts: 2,433
    but I am always impatient about new car deliveries.
  • rwisemrwisem Member Posts: 96
    I picked up our silver LT at noon today. Had to come back to work so only have preliminary impressions.

    The car does look better in person and the interior seems more uplevel than our '02. The ride is much improved. I was very impressed while traveling over rough roads on the way back to work. Not so impressed with the rattle in the console-will have to tackle that real soon.

    Harry - You said the tilt wheel worked like yours. We had a '98, too and it had the standard GM issue tilt function, as does our '02. The new one does NOT work the same way. As I said before, this will be an issue for my wife as she will be the primary driver. I even read the manual - the column is height adjustable, and of course there is the new telescopic feature, but that's it.

    The +/- button on the shift lever does indeed take you up and down through the gears after placing the selector in the L position. What's cool is that the electronic gear display in the instrument cluster has an extra segment that lights up with the exact gear you have selected when you use this function. Otherwise, when the selector is in drive, it is blank.

    The instrument gauges are very attractive and the plastic on the IP is a very good quality.

    With so many items to position I have a way to go to get all everything set right for me - there'a a whole lot of adjustin' goin' on.

    Hey! when I leave work I hope I remember to start the car with the remote!

    Enough for now. I didn't mean to write a long post. I'll try not to make too many partial ones.
  • regfootballregfootball Member Posts: 2,166
    it was likely a combo platter, design flaw and manufacturing flaw.
  • corsicachevycorsicachevy Member Posts: 316
    So I should be expecting another idiot light episode anytime now? I can think of better ways to spend $650.00.

    I hope the 3.5 liter version of my 3.1 liter doesn't suffer from this same defect.
  • bcmalibu99lsbcmalibu99ls Member Posts: 625
    if you are buying a car in its first year of production. I can't recall a single vehicle (except, perhaps, some very upscale models), which did not have a bunch of problems right after the launch. Just look at 03 Accord and even 03 4Runner (it had few bugs overall, but a few too many for a Toyota). Then again, who knows, maybe GM DID get it right THIS time with the new Bu. Time will tell. As for now, good luck, and enjoy your baby Bu's!
  • dindakdindak Member Posts: 6,632
    Looks like 0% or $1000 on the new Bu in the US or 1.9% for 60.

    http://www.media.gm.com/servlet/GatewayServlet?target=http://image.emerald.gm.com/gmnews/viewmonthlyreleasedetail.do?domain=3&docid=1400
  • johnclineiijohnclineii Member Posts: 2,287
    I am almost afraid to ask this, but did anybody see Harry's review of his Malibu test drive? Did I miss it?
  • dindakdindak Member Posts: 6,632
    john : We all missed it I guess.

    reg : Noticed yesterday that all Impalas now come with standard 4 wheel discs. If thats the case, I think they should do the same for all V6 Malibus, not just the LTs.
  • lostjrlostjr Member Posts: 26
    Was visiting relatives in Iowa. Rydell in Waterloo has 2004 'bu with the $1,000 off from GM plus $1,700 off from the dealer.

    I think they do something like this with all their vehilces to reduce hagling, but on this car, it is a far cry from some dealers marking UP from sticker.
  • rwisemrwisem Member Posts: 96
    Well Harry seems to be MIA the last few days. Hope there is nothing wrong. In the meantime, here are my observations after two days.

    EXTERIOR

    The exterior has a modern look to it, with projector style headlamps and faceted tail lamp reflectors along with new pull out, not pull up door handles. The creases in the side are not objectionable in person and neither is the front grille bar. Paint is good and body seams have closer tolerances than our ’02. A careful inspection does not reveal any badly fitting panels or loose trim.

    A peek under the car reveals thick aluminum suspension control arms in the rear. This should help unsprung weight.

    I’m glad to see 16’’ wheels on the LT model. I always felt the Malibu should have had them.

    INTERIOR

    The more modern look carries over to the interior. I had recently looked at a Suzuki Verona, and while very well executed, the interior seemed 3 or 4 years old. We have the gray interior, so have silver metallic accents instead of wood grain. I didn’t think I would like this, but it is attractive and adds to the modern ambiance. The IP and especially the gauges have a more upscale look than our ‘02 -the gear selector surround is also upgraded. Continuing with the good stuff, the rear seat is quite roomy and very comfortable. The gauge cluster takes on a simplified look at night. The molded features and some of the display is not lit – resulting in a slight resemblance to the “black out” feature on Saabs. I like it.

    A two-place upholder folds down from the back of the console as on the old Malibu. The perforated “LUX” fabric is very attractive. A nice surprise are the real, adjustable headrests in the rear – not the cheap molded bumps as before. A lever on the back inside edge of the front passenger seat releases the seatback to fold flat forward and make a table for the driver. You can load long objects from the trunk using the fold-down rear seatbacks.

    The front seats have an outside rim on the lower seat cushion that makes the seat look more expensive and provides a surface for the optional heated seat control. The steering wheel is not too bad – it has a nice,thick rim with the leather cover. The steering wheel controls are handy and intuitive. All other controls have good placement, although the radio controls are a little confusing – got to read that manual again. Special mention should go to the HVAC controls – they are the best I’ve ever seen. I’m not a fan of automatic climate controls – I would not pay if they were a stand-alone option. Most of our recent vehicles have had them and they are a pain to one degree or another, mostly due to the tendency toward overly aggressive fan speeds. On the new Malibu, there is essentially a manually control with automatic settings. I won’t take up more time with details, but it is a great solution.

    The view over the hood is good. The cowl is low, the wipers park snugly to the base of the W/S and the fenders are slightly higher than the center of the hood – a preference I’ve had for 40 years and rarely find. I hate high cowl/drop away hood cars where you only see the road and not any part of the hood or fenders.

    Now the not so good part: Although they never induced pain on the rare long trips we took in the old Malibu, I never found the front seats to be optimum for comfort. I’m sorry to say the new ones don’t fit me any better. This is a personal issue and YMMV. More seriously, the old faithful tilt-wheel will be sorely missed. This must be a result of the European based design. I know millions of Honda owners don’t seem to miss this, but we will. The telescopic feature is great, though.

    DRIVING

    The first thing I noticed was how good the ride was. This could have something to do with being used to the Trailblazer, but last night I ran an errand in the ’02 and the ride is definitely better on the new one. It feels like there is more suspension travel than I am used to – it rides better than any GM mid-size I have driven. The car has good grip and minimal lean in turns – not quite the match for an Intrigue I once had, but better than any Camry I’ve driven.

    The power delivery is outstanding. It feels like more than an additional 30 HP. I don’t believe I have felt such a surge of acceleration since my supercharged Olds LSS. It seems stronger than the 3.5 Intrigue in the mid-range.

    The steering is fine. It is a bit light at low speeds, but this is not an issue for me. The ratio is more important and it is quick, like on the Intrigue, not slow as in all those rental Centurys.

    As delivered, All mechanical and electrical functions work as they should, we’ll see if that continues – after all this is not just a first year, but an early production first year.

    Later I may post some pictures and a tell of the tape on interior room between the old and new designs.
This discussion has been closed.