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Hyundai XG300 and XG350

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Comments

  • phdrashedphdrashed Member Posts: 6
    Hi 350 gx
    I have a 2000 XG 300 and had a similar problem. I checked the sensors with OBDII and everything is fine. I had to replace the bearing on the alternator so the mechanic had to take the engine cover up after that I had the problem of surging and engine running 3000 rpm. For 3 days trying to figure out what was the cause but no luck. Finally I found the cause was the connection between the throttle wire and the wire that goes to the throttle body and the computer. This connector was loose so it was causing this problem. When you look at it you will not tell it is loose unless you unplug it. This connector is on the right side of the engine in the back. I hope this will help in solving your problem and take care.
    PhDrashed
  • 350gx350gx Member Posts: 6
    What was the long term result of your fix? Any more problems?
  • xfordxford Member Posts: 14
    My 2002 XG350L has 69000 miles. So far, relatively problem free - wheel bearing replacement and power steering hi pressure line replacement. The dealer is trying to get to change the timing belt saying that replacement is recommended at 60k miles. I have an extended warranty plan that extends new car warranty to 100k miles and it lists timing belt as a covered item but HMA says only if it was replaced, i.e., if the belt breaks before 100k miles, no, it is not covered by the extended warranty if it was not replaced. Anybody have any experience with timing belt problems and coverage of timing belt on extended warranty?
  • whitetopwhitetop Member Posts: 36
    The way I understand most warranties you are expected to keep up with and pay for the service recommendations described in your owner's manual in order to keep your warranty valid. If your manual says to replace the timing belt at 60K you are expected to do that. If the new timing belt should break before your 100K warranty runs out it would be covered. That's probably unlikely, though.

    My only experience with breaking timing belts was on my '90 Toyota pick-up. It was recommended to replace the belt at 60K miles and I needed to wait a month before I could afford the work. The belt went out at 60,055 miles! I couldn't believe it. It cost about three times as much to have it fixed under those circumstances.

    If I still have my '05 XG350L when it has 60K miles I'll be having the belt replaced.
  • xfordxford Member Posts: 14
    You may be right about the warranty provision but I think a major expenditure such as timing belt replacement to keep the extended warranty in force should be identified at the time the extended warranty is purchased.

    about 30 years ago, I had a Fiat 128SL. I had the timing belt replaced as part of the factory recommended service. The new belt broke, actually wore out, within 10k miles and left me stranded about 600 miles from home on a Sunday morning. The gas station I was towed to could not find a belt and I was going to have to wait until Monday for local Fiat dealer to open. Luckily, I kept the old belt in the trunk and they were able to use that to get me going. I drove home 600 miles on 3 cylinders! I still remember how amazing it was that I didn't miss the 4th cylinder except on hills! When I got home, the dealer would not fix it under their warranty because it was over their 3000 mile warranty!

    I just can't believe timing belts won't last for more than 100k miles on modern cars. I never had to replace timing belt or chains on any of my other cars which were driven for well over 100k miles.
  • hscrchscrc Member Posts: 5
    I have a 2002 XG350L that is overdue for a timing belt replacement. I called the dealer that I bought the car from and was given a price of $750. A second dealer quoted $580., for the belt with no additional parts (ie. tensioner, pulley). I'm curious as to whether the $580. price is what I should go for or should I look around further, perhaps an independent garage. Thanks for any input.
  • blackrussianblackrussian Member Posts: 29
    About 3 years ago I had my wife`s Lexus timing belt replaced and as I recall it was under $300.00 at a good independent garage, just remember to keep the receipt. I avoid dealers when ever possible, all of them should be locked up and the keys thrown away for the prices they charge.
  • eman32eman32 Member Posts: 1
    I purchased a new 350L back in December of 05 and have roughly about 6000 mi on it now. I love the car I must say. But I've been having many stereo problems (infinity system) and now I'm having fuel read out problems. First time I brought it into the dealer (Fuccillo in NY) I had a blown speaker and it's been down hill since then. They replaced the speaker but failed to tell me they broke of the clips in the trunk that hold the cargo net and molding. Then I was unable to listen to the radio because static static and more static on all station. Besides the stereo cutting out at different intervals. Then they fixed the clip and replaced the back glass because thats were the antenna is. Then had to bring it in again for the cutting out problem. Said they needed to replace the stereo. After replacing the stereo. Static problem comes back and mechanic say's need to order new rear glass. I told him it was recently replaced so he traced all wires from the stereo to the amp and found that there was a pinched wire. Stereo dosen't cut out anymore but static problem is still there and now I'm having fuel read out problems (Fuel miles to empty) on a fill up from a 1/4 tank took 3 days to register/display 365 miles from the 96 miles it had when I fueled up. It moved up 1 mile at a time while driving. Anyone else experienced problems like this?
  • averigejoeaverigejoe Member Posts: 559
    Nope.
  • rogdogrogdog Member Posts: 9
    My poor ol' Corolla was on its last leg (wheel) and I was looking for a reliable replacement. Looked at Altima, Saturn, Alero, Volvo, etc. Then I tried on a GX300L. Whoa!, No way I could afford this beauty!!! Less than 10k. Wha!!! "No way!" "Way," said the dealer. Very nice car. Much more than I could have ever hoped for. And I could fit in it. I'm a bit over a quarter-half a ton and 6'2". (or is that a half a quarter ton?)
    I asked that the timing belt be replace. "OK." Also, loud thump from rear end on bumps. "We'll fix it," and they did. Turned out to be a worn out bushing in the sway bar.
    I did read some of the posts on this board, but, 'man it sure rides nice. Had it about three months (Love that CD changer) and the front left brake pad separated from its base and ground up the rotor. They fixed it, but I had to pay as the dealers warranty only went for 2 months on a car with over 60k on it. 62k to be exact. OK, gads, it sure rides nice.

    We have a 99 buick century, but it don't ride like the GX. Did some experimenting with the auto seat stuff. If you hit the parking brake and then pull the key, the seat moves to the rear most position (also have to have the 'auto' button pushed. When you get back in and put in the key, the seat returns to the last memory position. A recent post here complained that the fellows wife sat a lot closer to the wheel than he does and when he gets in, he gets the ol' squeeze play. I thought that maybe if you turn off the 'Auto' button after the seat goes to the rear most position, maybe it would stay there when you got in and put in the key. Guess what? It don't.
    Instead, when you get in, the seat has already gone to the memory position. Apparently when you unlock the door with the key bob, the seat moves forward before you even open the door. So much for that great idea.

    Rog Dog
  • averigejoeaverigejoe Member Posts: 559
    Congrats on your purchase! Glad you are happy with it.
    The XG 300 and XG 350 are both excellent cars to buy used. They have had few, if any recalls, they are roomy and smooth, they were well equipped and expensive new but depreciated quickly, and they never were very popular. All that makes for a good used car, and a great value for the price too.
    I like mine too, and by buying it new I've got that 100,000 powertrain warranty. I'm not sure if we'll keep it long enough to cash in on it though.
  • rogdogrogdog Member Posts: 9
    Thank you 'averigjoe',

    Yes, I agree. Wish I could have gotten that warranty also, but they said "No," to that. I did get the dealer's 24 month 12000 mi power train coverage though it cost me a couple k. I've been trying to get various people to take my car for a spin, hoping they would get so hooked that they'd buy it from me for more than I paid. (Yea, I know, LOTSA LUCK FELLA!) Then I could by a GX350.
  • rogdogrogdog Member Posts: 9
    This is a followup on the AUTO seat control. I Confirmed my earlier finding, but also think I did find a solution to the "SQUEEZE" problem. Instruct the wife to do the standard procedure to leave the seat in the 'full back' position, after putting on the parking brake, with the 'AUTO' button left on, exiting and locking the car. When the Mr. goes to get in, he can unlock the car, open the driver side door and reach in and push the 'AUTO' button to turn it off before he puts the key in. He then gets in and inserts the key and starts the car. Then he can hit the 'AUTO' button and select his memory position. Once the door is opened and the 'AUTO button turned off, the seat will not move out of the 'full back' position until the memory button is selected. At least not in my GX-300.
  • averigejoeaverigejoe Member Posts: 559
    too much trouble. the seat should work better than that
  • gobshite01gobshite01 Member Posts: 1
    Hi - When I shift into either drive or reverse from a cold start a prominent buzzing or rattling noise can be heard from under the hood at idle. The condition does not occur in Park or Neutral. In Drive or Reverse the noise is immediately reduced (but not eliminated) when I press on the accelerator. Once I have been driving for about 10 minutes and everything is warm the noise completely goes away. The probelm does not occur after a warm start but will reoccur at the next cold start. The problem occurs even at outside temperatures up to 20C but is more pronounced the colder it is. Has anybody encountered this?

    Thanks,

    Craig
  • mhbufomhbufo Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2006 XG350 which I bought in October. It has 26,000 miles on it. I have had the acceleration problem several times, both the failure to go more than a couple of miles an hour and the surge. My husband almost wrecked us when backing out of a driveway onto a busy street because of the surge. We probably left about 1/4 of our tires on that street. The problem is with both forward and reverse movement and I consider it dangerous. I took mine to the dealer and was told that it had something to do with some sort of "bar" and that it couldn't be fixed. They told me that they had had seven of these cars in there at the same time with the same problem. I told them that I could usually fix the failure to move by popping the accelerator sharply and they told me that was what they advised people to do. I have also experienced the problem with the wires under the front seat tripping the air bag light. They fixed it once and now it's done it again. A problem that I have experienced, but haven't seen on this forum is with the cigarette lighter when I plug in my cell phone charger. It blows the fuse that controls the moon roof. The dealer replaced the fuse the first time and told me that it happens a lot when you plug in a cell phone. I started using the rear outlet, but it has blown again. I'm also very unhappy with the gas mileage in this car. We get about 18 mpg in town and 20 on the highway. I expected better, but find that is what most others are getting too, so I guess that can't be fixed. I do love the car otherwise, but these problems are aggravating and the acceleration problem is downright dangerous. I'm 63 years old and have never had a car dealer tell me that I would have to live with a problem like that that my car had. I'm considering trying to trade for a new Azera but don't know much about them and I've no idea if Hyundai will grant me any leeway for what seems like a lemon. Has anyone else experienced trading up because of the problem?
  • rogdogrogdog Member Posts: 9
    Yea, That is a lot of heavy labor, pushing those buttons. Maybe Hyundai could supply a 'house boy' with each car to do that manual stuff.

    Short note to Forum Controller: Sorry about the "Dyslexia"! Those headings should have read "XG300L". The car knows what it is even if I do not.

    Rog Dog
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    For future reference, you have an Edit (and a Delete) link in the gray area of the title available for about 30 minutes after you've posted. A lot of folks miss that.

    "Forum Controller" over and out. :shades:
  • dseefeldt1dseefeldt1 Member Posts: 5
    We also had this problem, but it only happened to me, never to my husband or to the dealer when they kept it for an extended period of time. It was a safety hazzard and we didnt feel right trading it with another dealer for a different make and not being honest about the problem. We finally just "bit the bullet" and traded up for the Azera, there was some cost involved, but we are extremely happy that we did. So far, it has been everything they advertise, but we only have 3000 miles on it.
  • liawilliamsliawilliams Member Posts: 3
    I own a 2004 XG350 bought new eith 49,000 miles on it. I have had a similar problem for about 3 weeks. One day I started my car and went to take off and it would only go 15-20 mph. Stopped, restarted, same thing. Drove it twice around the block to see if it would kick in but didn't. Pulled back in my driveway and turned off the car. About 30 seconds later I tried again. No problem, ran normally but with the emissions light on. I've continued to have this happen frequently. Every 2-3 times I use my car. I've noticed these things as well when it acts up: No matter how much gas I press while still in park, it doesn't rev up. If I take my foot off the gas it stays running, but if I press the break it sounds like it's going to choke and stall out. If I take my foot off the break it recovers to it's low running mode. Like I said re-start it 2 or 3 times and it will run normally. What ticked me off though is when I took it to the dealer. They came back with "Your fuel injectors need cleaned with a 3 part solution. It's not covered by the warranty so that will be $70.00". What??? I've had cars running to 170,000 miles and never had this happen or require fuel injector cleaning. They gave me lame reasons too. Gas doesn't have the detergents it used to. I have a lot of miles (under 50,000??? is a lot?). If these statements are true why don't all cars driving out there at 49,000+ miles have this problem?? At 37,000 miles I had the emissions light come on with seemingly no symptoms. Then they replaced the purge valve under warranty. Now I'm supposed to believe this more severe problem is just the result of dirt and grime and not under warranty?? Please!!!
  • whitetopwhitetop Member Posts: 36
    I doubt if it has anything to do with the fuel injection. My car did this with less than 5,000 miles. The surest fix I've read about on this forum is to park it and rev the accelerator pedal pretty fast a few times. That's what I did when it happened to me and it fixed it. Mine has only done it one time, but many people on this forum have written about it happening many times. Be sure to call the Hyundai Customer Service line, as we have agreed to do that so at least Hyundai recognizes that a problem exists for which there does not seem to be a cure.

    I'm a believer in Hyundai, but I don't like it very much when they say they "can't duplicate the problem."
  • dcrobbie22041dcrobbie22041 Member Posts: 15
    I truly wish I hadn't traded in my 1999 Sonata for this car (Purchased in 9/1999 and traded in 11/2000). I did it on an impulse when taking the Sonata in for it's 9k oil change.

    I tend to 'baby' any car I own on the required maintenance (and tend to keep a car I like for a long time), so I didn't own the '99' Sonata long enough to know what I kind of record it would have.

    Nonetheless, I've now owned the '01' XG for long enough to know that Hyundai's promise of quality and extended warranties are all bogus. I have had most of the problems described on this forum, some of which were easy fixes, others not.

    At the end of the day (because I don't have long commutes), my car has 56k on it, has stranded me twice, alternator replaced, belts replaced (which the dealer said were not covered under the engine and bumper-to-bumper warranties -- and I have the Hyundai Protection Plan also), and I still get random problems. The car runs, but service engine light turns on/stays on most of the time (but the dealership can't replicate it), air bag light is on constantly. In any case, the dealership I bought the car from with always tries to rip you off on maintenance and repairs whenever you go in there.

    Before I ever had a Hyundai, I had an '81' VW Rabbit Diesel which was fantastic enginewise and probably drove until all the parts had fallen off the frame, and then an '87' Nissan Stanza, which was dying at 130k when I bought the '99' Sonata.

    I loved this car when I bought it, but I don't delay maintenance, baby the car most of the time, and I have a piece of Cr** at 56k!

    Sorry to let the air out of some people's sails, but that's the way it is!
  • averigejoeaverigejoe Member Posts: 559
    Hahaha. No, not really heavy labor, but it is annoying.
    Here's what I recently discovered: We have two different seat/mirror settings programed as #1 and #2. We leave the auto button on with green light glowing. We nearly always apply the parking brake, sometimes after turning the key off, other times before. The seat either moves back a little or stays in my far back position #1 when I exit the car. When I want to re-enter, unlocking the car with the remote, sometimes the seat moves to my short-legged wife's setting, #2, but other times goes to my #1 position. If it scoots forward to her position, I just re-lock the car with the remote and then unlock it again, at which time the seat goes to my #1 postion. It can happen either way regardless of who last drove the car or which remote is used to unlock the door.
    I don't understand why it behaves this way, but I'm happy enough.
    MPG on the freeway cruising at varying speeds between 70-85 using whole tanks of gas gives 23 to 27 MPG for me, fully loaded, A/C on. Normal around town mileage, which does not include much stop and go traffic, usually averages 17 to 20 MPG.
    2005 XG350 L, purchased new, now with 29,000 miles.
  • bettersafebettersafe Member Posts: 92
    Latest news on my 2005 XG. The car has hestitated three times in 8000 miles of use. But last month the Traction control / antilock brake computer failed. The car worked fine, but there were three lights illuminated on the dash: TSC, Brakes and one more (?) Hyundai replaced the computer under warranty. The dealer contacted Hyundai about the hesitation, and Hyundai said if the new computer did not fix the acceleration problem, that the dealer should replace the accelerator position sensor. Our dealer in Iowa City seems very willing to do what it takes to resolve the problem. We have put another 1000 miles on the car with no hesitation.... and we are keeping our fingers crossed that the TSC computer was somehow the culprit all along. On a problem that occurs once per 2 or 3 months, it is hard to know if the problem has finally been fixed.
    I wish other XG owners success in this adventure. Other than the hesitation, we love the car, 20/21 MPG around town, 26/27 on the road with A/C.
  • rogdogrogdog Member Posts: 9
    Capttv01,

    :D I checked this out on my XG300 and the airflow out the rear duct is a lot lower than air flow out the front. This is not to say there is nothing wrong with your vehicle, but one thing to try is to close all of the front vents and see what that does for rear airflow. I tried it and got a bunch 'o air out the rear. Not the normal way you would use it, but at least you would know it is working. Also be sure the vent is open at the rear duct. :surprise:

    :blush: I had my center console torn apart last week-end try to find some things I'd dropped down thru the gap in the cup holder door. (Yes I'm very dumb) Anywho, I was able to get a good look at the duct work that directs air to the rear vent. It is only about an inch in diameter from the front of the console to within a foot of the rear vent where it expands to about the size of the vent opening. You're not going to get gobs of air thru that small duct, but I've found that it is sufficient to cool the back seat area fairly quickly.

    Hope this is helpful,

    Rog Dog
  • liawilliamsliawilliams Member Posts: 3
    I received a survey Hyundai regarding my trip to the dealer that offered nothing but a lame "dirty fuel injector" excuse with a $70.00 cleaning fix. I didn't sugar coat it. I also wrote in detail why I was unsatisfied. Since then I went to another Hyundai dealer to have the car looked at. I explained the same issue I was having every couple other day or so with acceleration problems on start up not allowing me to go more than 20 mph until I restarted the car 2 or 3 more times. This dealer came back and told me that I needed a new relay. They would have to order it and it wouldn't be until 2 days later that they'd have it so would I be able to come in then to have it put in. When I told them I wouldn't be able to and it looked like it would be after the weekend before my schedule would allow it, they said they'd see what they could do to get it in quicker. They called me the next morning and said they had the part and asked if I could come in that afternoon. Needless to say, that went along way with me at this point. The relay has been replaced and it's been one week without incident. I'm hoping this was the answer I was looking for. I will keep this site informed as to whether the first dealer contacts me because of my poor survey response.
  • rastaspoonrastaspoon Member Posts: 1
    The fuerl door on my XG300 has this annoying issue with popping open. The switch flips open every few seconds, and doesn't stop, sometimes pounding on the inside of the driver side door works, but that doesn't seem to work either. I think it may have something to do with humidity or moisture....anyone?
    Is this easily repaired by myself? I can't afford a visit to Mr. Hyundai right now.
  • bettersafebettersafe Member Posts: 92
    Do you have the exact name/type of the "relay" that was replaced? The XG probably has a hundred relays. So far, not a problem in my XG since the traction control unit was replaced. But then it has only been a month. I will not be able to declare clear victory for another 3 months. I think the dealer has a lot of influence on how we view our XG's. If the dealer is willing to work through the problems, perhaps trying one or two changes based upon educated guesses, I think we will all be happy. Other dealers who wait for a specific computer code to appear, are very frustrating. One down side of driving the exclusive XG is that dealers do not get a lot of experience working on these vehicles as compared to the more popular Sonatas. My wife and I purposely did not want a first year Azera, thinking that the 2005 XG would be more mature..... Time will tell.
  • bettersafebettersafe Member Posts: 92
    Well, It has been a couple of months since the traction control computer / unit was replaced in my 2005 XG... So far it has run like a charm. . . . Not a single hesitation event. I do not know if the problem was the computer, or some wire connecting to the computer. I know that some intermittent problems can be caused by poor contacts on electrical connections. I will not consider the problem as "fixed" until we go a couple more months. . . .
  • liawilliamsliawilliams Member Posts: 3
    You know what, I don't know for sure. I will be visiting the dealer again soon for a pre 60,000 mile once over and I will ask then!
  • vegasladyvegaslady Member Posts: 10
    I'm surprised to see the mpg is that good on a 3.3L engine. I'm debating between the XG350 and the Sonata GLS V6. The XG has more features that I like than the Sonata but the Sonata has better mileage. I have a 2002 Honda Accord now and I've never really been impressed with it. I've had it for just under a year. Is the XG really comfortable? I'm almost 70 and figure this will be the last car I buy. I buy all my cars from Car Max and intend to get the next one there also. They don't have a lot of these in stock and in fact here in Nevada they don't have any at this time. Is the leather soft or stiff like some? I hate leather in Nevada but thats all that comes in it I guess. At least buying it used it should have all the bugs out of it. Their cars are like brand new with very low miles but very good prices. I've done the new car scene to many times to do it again. I'm curious about the mileage on that motor. I was afraid the 3.3 would be hard on gas. What grade of gas does it use? Thanks
  • bettersafebettersafe Member Posts: 92
    Our XG350L has a 3.5L engine, which is very spunky. In Iowa, we always use the mid-grade ethanol (89 octane) blend, since it is cheaper than the low-grade gas. Most of our driving is open road between towns at 60 - 70 MPH as we always get mid-twenties. On pure highway, we get 26-28 with AC running. Around town, the MPG depends on your gas pedal practice. If you drive it like a Corvette, the MPG would likely be low teens.

    The leather is firm. I expected it to soften over time, but it has mostly stayed firm. My wife has a touchy back, and the comfort of the seats was a prime selection criteria for us. I do not know if leather was standard in the non "L" version of the XG350. The XG350L was the luxury version of the XG350.

    Good Luck !
  • hscrchscrc Member Posts: 5
    I have been having a problem with the speedometer of my 2002 XG350 (90K mi) that I haven't seen on this forum. It started about a month ago with a bouncing needle that would occasionally drop to 0. When this would happen, it would confuse the cruise control generally shutting it off. It occasionally confuses the transmission, causing the car to buck a little. Recently the problem has become more consistent. The needle drops to 0 for a few minutes at a time at which point the odometer stops working. Also the cruise control no longer will turn on. I was wondering if anyone has any insight or experience on this issue. I have little failth in the local dealers and would like to go in with as much information as I can. Thanks, Vic
  • wonder4l2wonder4l2 Member Posts: 1
    Last weekend while working in my garage the drivers side window rolled down by itself. The engine was off and keys were in the house. This has never happened before on my 2001 Xg300. Has anyone else seen this? :confuse:
  • phdrashedphdrashed Member Posts: 6
    Dear HSCRC
    I have a 2000 XG and had the same problem with the speedometer after I had replaced the valve body on the transmission. Some how the speedometer wire to the transmission was loose and that caused the problem. Make sure the wire is connected properly and good luck and take care.
    PhDRashed
  • biglar1biglar1 Member Posts: 8
    My '92 Legacy finally bought the farm last month, and a friend who is a mechanic for a wholesaler found me a very clean, one-owner 2001 XG300 with 70K, which they had taken in trade at their retail dealership.
    I've now put 1500 miles on the car, and am very impressed. A little wind noise, a little rear-end thump over harsh roads (which I attribute to a somewhat soft suspension), but overall a very nice car. Perhaps the original owner got all the bugs out. My first tank was less than 18mpg, but the "fuzzy logic" adjusted to me after about 300 miles, and I'm now averaging about 23mpg.
    I've owned five Toyotas (all purchased new), a used Maxima and a used Subaru since 1974. The best of the bunch was my '87 MR2, which I ran 150K before it was stolen and stripped.
    I've now read about 1300 of the posts on this board. It appears that some have had some serious problems with their cars, but I learned a long time ago that the unhappy people want the world to know that they're unhappy, while the happy people don't say a word.
    No car company or car is perfect. My ex bought a '99 Outback. It seems that Outback clutches need to be replaced every 35K (at a cost of $600-$800). Subaru picked up half the tab on the first one (37K), but said tough luck after that. I've spoken with about six other people with the same problem (and reported it to NHTSA with no response), so it's not only Hyundai.
    So far I'm very satisfied with the XG. Fit and finish are excellent, the engine is more than satisfactory, and I feel I got a great deal.
  • biglar1biglar1 Member Posts: 8
    I've finally read all of the messages in the forum, and would like to make a few observations. I've been in sales for about 25 years, but am also a consumer, so I think I can comment from both sides of the fence.

    1. The Samsung TV with the same features which cost $1000 less will probably not perform as well as the Sony.

    2. The GE wall oven with the same features will probably not be as reliable as the Thermador which cost $1500 more.

    3. If a company makes 100,000 of a product, and 5,000 have a problem, the only people who will post to a forum such as this one will be the ones with the problems. I learned a long time ago that happy people keep quiet, while those with a complaint want the world to know about it. I would love those who haven't had a problem to post here.

    4. Consumer Reports repair records are useless (see number 3 above). As a long-time subscriber I know that satisfied people never want to take the time to fill out the annual questionnaire.

    I'm not saying that those of you who have had problems (many of them serious) should be dismissed. I just wonder how many people haven't had problems, and how they feel about their cars.

    I've now driven my used XG300 for 1500 miles, and so far it's performed exceptionally well. Perhaps (with winter coming) I won't be able to say that 3 months from now, but for the moment I'm satisfied.
  • gillesgilles Member Posts: 1
    I have been hearing the same noise mentioned in message #1952 of 1974 for the last few days.
    I would like to know if anybody had any lock in identifying
    the source of the noise, I have 92500kms on the car.

    Thanks

    Gilles
  • zstheonezstheone Member Posts: 1
    I've had my first car (2002 Hyundai xg350) for about 2 months now and have noticed that it jerks sometimes.
    By that I mean that if I've stopped at a stop sign or a light and then go to accelerate, it kind of jerks a bit. After going to the dealership and having them drive the car and what not... they tell me this is all normal for an 'electronic' car and that I just have to get use to it and the way I drive it. :confuse:

    If anyone has ANY idea what I'm talking about or any comments or suggestions, PLEASE feel free to email me about it at hypnos35@hotmail.com PLEASE!

    I feel like a loser because it IS my first car and to be quite honest... I know a total of... NOTHING about cars in general. So any help would be greatly appreciated!!
  • rogdogrogdog Member Posts: 9
    Just thought the following info would be helpful. It is not guaranteed to be 100% correct. Corrections are welcome and will be updated later.

    Thanks,

    Rog Dog

    EDMUNDS HYUNDAI FORUM NOTES


    A/C-HEATER CONTROLS 1064-68, 1114, 1127, 1151, 1155, 1157, 1160, 1164,
    1166, 1183, 1236, 1241, 1252-54, 1256-57, 1282, 1285, 1321-22, 1543-45, 1751


    AIR BAG DEPLOYMENT PROBLEMS 768, 770-774, 778-781, 783, 785-6, 788, 790,
    798, 802-810, 811-12, 832, 834, 844, 854, 879, 902-7, 910, 912-20, 921,
    945, 1080, 1082, 1089, 1110, 1115-20, 1123-24, 1174, 1176

    AIR FILTERS 1810

    ALIGNMENT ISSUES 1073, 1203, 1205, 1208-10, 1255, 1509, 1537, 1741, 1743-45,
    1757

    AUTO SEAT RETRACTION 198; 472-476, 817, 819-20, 1035, 1530, 1764

    AUTO SIDE MIRRORS 1133, 1142, 1528-30

    BRAKE PROBLEMS 587, 844, 879, 884, 1054, 1166, 1171-74, 1223, 1400-01,
    1495-1500, 1517, 1537, 1539, 1541, 1553, 1588-92, 1655, 1742, 1774-76, 1786,
    1789

    CHECK ENGINE LIGHT ..., 1442-43, 1517, 1539, 1546, 1787, 1821-22, 1834,
    1841-44,

    CRUISE CONTROL PROBLEMS 400, 1151, 1155, 1157, 1303-05, ?1527?

    ECM (ENGINE CONTROL MODULE) ...1683

    ELECTRICAL PROBLEMS 1149-50, 1151, 1176, 1229, 1235-36, 1239, 1252,
    1509, 1527, 1646, 1774-76, 1787, 1807, 1945

    EMISSION SYSTEM ISSUES 1509, 1650-51

    ENGINE PROBLEMS 1712-17, 1727

    EXTERIOR PAINT PROBLEMS 715, 718, 720, 1195-96, 1199, 1429-30, 1535,
    1677,

    FLOOR MAT CLIPS 662, 673, 708, 720, 1031

    FOG LIGHT PROBLEMS 1786

    GASOLINE TYPE 1140-41, 1144, 1154, 1156, 1163, 1456-57

    HEADLIGHTS 1391, 1393-94, 1764, 1774

    HEAD RESTS 1167

    HESITATION WHEN COLD 691, 707, 1815-19, 1828, 1831, 1833, 1840, 1870-71,
    1874-75, 1883?, 1898, 1901-05, 1908-17

    HORSEPOWER FIASCO 1228, 1230, 1242-50, 1580-87

    IGNITION PROBLEMS 944, 1045, 1176, 1179, 1232

    LEAKING AROUND WINDOWS AND ELSEWHERE 1507, 1510, 1854, 1857,
    1886-88,

    LURCHING WHILE BRAKES APPLIED 1809, 1820, 1825-26, 1840, 1852-53, 1858-60,
    1864, 1869-70, 1899-1900, 1919-21, 1925, 1935-39

    MILEAGE QUESTIONS 1145-47, 1155, 1157, 1739-40, 1748-50, 1752-54, 1845-46,

    MOONROOF BUTTONS 720

    MUD FLAPS 561; 563, 664

    NOISE PROBLEMS 1080, 1221-22, 1233, 1259, 1306, , 1312-13, 1318, 1334-35,
    1349, 1383, 1539, 1541, 1545

    HYUNDAI PICTURES 1686

    RADIO PROBLEMS 587, 673, 683-685, 1088, 1227, 1764, 1945

    RECALLS 1081-82, 1084-86, 1089

    REMOTE FOB (RANGE) 1180, 1238, 1398, 1431-32, 1534

    RUST???? 1522-24

    SPARK PLUGS 1896-97

    STALLING or STUMBLING 1727-30, 1847

    SWAY BAR & BUSINGS 1101, 1184-86, 1509

    SYSTEM CHECK (NO ERRORS) 1160???

    THROTTLE INFO 790, 1176, 1359-60, 1374-75, 1527, 1591-92, 1647-49, 1653,
    1655, 1662-63, 1669, 1676, 1678, 1700-05, 1718-19, 1732-36, 1766-73, 1778,
    1780-83, 1793-94, 1837, 1848-49, 1873, 1899-1900

    TIRE ISSUES ..., 1547, 1691-92, 1700, 1737-38, 1761-63, 1799, 1808, 1812-14,
    1836
    TIRERACK WEBSITE???

    TIMING BELT ...1681, 1940-44

    TRACTION CONTROL 817-19, 822, 831-32, 835-838, 1335, 1363, 1366-69,


    TRANSMISSION ISSUES 633-636; 638; 645, 673-679, 686, 688-689, 701, 707,
    710, 1032, 1036-39, 1041-44, 1046, 1047-48, 1050, 1055, 1062-63, 1071-71,
    1074-76, 1078, 1084-1086, 1089, 1121-22, 1127, 1139, 1166, 1169, 1171, 1172-73,
    1176, 1178, 1189, 1221, 1239-1240, 1280-81, 1283-84, 1288, 1298, 1306-07, 1332,
    1337, 1365, 1447, 1462, 1475, 1509, 1519-20, 1527, 1545, 1555, 1653, 1655, 1700-05,
    1746-47, 1751, 1755-56, 1758-60, 1766-73, 1778, 1780-83, 1793-94, 1805, 1807,
    1837, 1850, 1918-19

    TRIP COMPUTER 1087, 1113, 1143, 1169

    TRUNK HINGES 410-420

    USED 1168

    VALVES, SELF ADJUSTING(?) 1134-35, 1221-22

    VIBRATION 1171, 1174-76, 1319, 1323, 1343-46 (fixed), 1537, 1788, 1806

    WARRANTY TRANSFER!!!??? 1633, 1658-60

    WIND NOISE 573; 574, 708, ?768, ?879, 1110, 1174, 1187-89, 1306

    WIND SHIELD WIPER SPEED 487; 618-619

    WINDOW CONTROL PANEL 673, 720, 1263, 1266, 1509
  • cindydanielscindydaniels Member Posts: 4
    I had this same problem w/my 2003 XG 350L. My speedometer wouldn't let me go over 40 mph for over 10 miles, then the speedometer needle went to 0 and wouldn't move. Next, my odometer quit, too. This all happened one mile before I hit 60,000 (warranty out after the 60). I fought the dealership on this one and won after many phone calls to Service Mgr. and Gen. Mgr. I ended up having the speed sensor replaced and haven't had this problem since. Unfortunately, since turning 67,000 miles.......I am having many problems one thing right after the other...Getting ready to trade it in for something that is not as costly as this car has been with all of it's service recommendations. Very expensive to have your plugs and wires changed out... $156 in parts...4 hrs. labor at $80...I'm tired of this car which has become a money pit after hitting 67,000 miles. Get your speed sensor checked (it has to do with the c. control, too)
  • cindydanielscindydaniels Member Posts: 4
    My 2003 XG 350L does this continually for the past year and a half. I am now reaching 68,000 miles and it seems one thing after another keeps going wrong with this car.... Trading it in since it has become a money pit.
  • cindydanielscindydaniels Member Posts: 4
    My 2003 XG is at the dealership now having plugs and wires changed. Very expensive labor that takes 4 hours. The upper plinium (sp?) must be taken off and the tech has alot of work to just get to the plugs and wires. $157 in parts...with 4 hrs. labor... Battery went out while he was doing this work, then three hours later they called to say that my driver's airbag module has gone out..Wondering if they shorted this out somehow??? The new module is $500 without tax or labor... I can't afford this and the module wasn't out when I took the car in for service. Any ideas of how this module just happened to go out when I just had a new battery put in or is this just a coincident?
  • cindydanielscindydaniels Member Posts: 4
    I had the exact same thing happen with my 2003 XG. They replaced the speed sensor that has to do with the cruise control. Tech should be careful not to knock anything loose on the a.conditioner. This happened to me and I had to take it back due to something not being put back properly.
  • jaymagicjaymagic Member Posts: 309
    Finally traded my pearl white 02 XG350L (76K miles) on an 07 Azera Limited with the Ultimate package. Other than finding out very early that if you don't unstick the wipers when iced you will blow a fuse, I had no problems with any features or functions on my XG. Only thing that ever needed replacing was a head light bulb (luckly just under 50K miles).

    My only complaint ever with the car, was the worthless Michelin tires that came with it. Had to replace those squeeling bad boys at just over 20K. Went to Kumho Ecsta ASX and never looked back. In winter I had studded Hankooks. Better than 4 wheel drive.

    Really enjoyed my XG, but wow driving the new Azera makes up for it.
  • viperjoeviperjoe Member Posts: 7
    Well I bought my 2001 xg300 sight unseen and without even driving it for several reasons 1. The reviews.Consumer reports were favorable at this time2. The warranty. After working in the automotive most of my years I wanted a car for my wife that all I had to do was change oil. 3. The price. Window stickered for 25k and I got it for 20k.
    4. Interest rate. At the time it was .9% with no one else offering this kind of rate at the time. Now five and a half years later one thing is for sure, I will never buy another green car. I would say another Hyundai but there is no way they could stay in business if all their cars were as bad as mine. To start off since the day we got it the radio will come on by itself but of course it works fine for the dealer. The trunk has opened by itself along with the doors locking by themselves and the passenger mirror moving on its own but always works fine for the dealer. The surging problem I had too and wound up being a short in the wiring. The transmission had to be replaced but it took 4 times to the dealer before that happened. First time the fluid was burnt and they said that was why the trans shuddered so I changed filter and fluid. Second time fluid burnt and they said that was because I did nit flush it so I paid them to flush it. Keep in mind I know that extreme heat is the only thing that will burn the fluid but what can you say. Third time trans is shuddering on 3-4 shift but fluid not burnt yet so dealer informs me of tsb and flashes ecm. Forth time trans now shudders from 4-5 and dealers says nothing wrong so I inform them of tsb that says to replace trans which they finally do. Are you starting to get the picture. It took three times taking it in to get the compressor replaced because the car would slow down 5mph when the ac kicked on. Today I picked it up from the dealer after 19 days there getting stuff fixed and now the radio acted up for them but it only has a two year warranty. I had the timing belt replaced because of a growling noise and I am glad I did. The tech pulled the top cover off and it was very loose. When paying they had us sign a document that we were the original owners which we thought we were at least that is what our finance contract with the dealer said but we found out that there was a previous owner and that means no 100k eng/pt warranty. Any lawyers out there? So you get alot for your money on this car used considering its resale value sucks but I still would not own another one.
  • whitetopwhitetop Member Posts: 36
    My '05 XG350 had another incident of not going over 5 miles per hour/refusing to rev past 1K recently. As before, when I took it in there were no codes to be found, and no records of anyone else having this type of problem. My paperwork noted "Could not Duplicate." I was expecting this, but still was irritated, since I know several of us on this forum have taken our cars in with the same problem. So I called Hyundai Consumer Affairs and so far am pleased with their response. A district service manager is coming to town this week to look at the car. My local service manager may never speak to me again. I'll keep you posted. I would appreciate hearing from anyone who has had their problem fixed. Thanks.
  • hscrchscrc Member Posts: 5
    This happened to me on my 2002, which currently is approaching 100k Miles. I shut the car off for a few minutes, re-started it, and it was fine. It happened just after the car turned 60K mi., and I was charged $100. to be told that, "we really don't know what's wrong with your car." The problem has never recurred. I tend to think of it as maybe a computer freezing up and needing to be restarted. No big deal unless it happens in the passing lane on a highway. I also have a 2005, with 22k miles, that has had no issues (yet) whatsoever. Good luck with yours. Vic
  • whitetopwhitetop Member Posts: 36
    Well, it's been a few weeks now and so far so good. The regional service manager brought a flash drive containing a fix for the XG's "linear" movement. It is supposed to cure everything from the jumpy accelerator to the not wanting to go more than five miles per hour problem. So far the car is behaving better than it did when it was new. So there's hope after all. The service bulletin is brand-new for this month, so your service department may have to do a little research. I'll keep you posted.
  • shumandushumandu Member Posts: 7
    My friend I am experiencing the same issues. I showed this thread to my dealer service rep and he was very interested to know what region you are in and what dealership you use. He knows the seriousness of this problem and would like to resolve it for me. He says my computer is flashed to the latest revision, and can not find a bulletin regarding a fix for "linear movement". This is the second time I have it in the shop, the first time the engine light came on they only found "Ghost Codes" they cleared it and sent me on my way. It happened again this weekend. The transmission won't shift out of first, it starts to break up and buck at about 2 grand on the tach. I noticed that if I put it in the manual shift slot and kicked it into 2nd gear myself it would then run fine. When I shut the car off and re started it the engine light remained on but the problem went away. I would really appreciate your help. If my dealer can contact your Regional Hyundai Service Manager he may be able to identify the fix and help me and others.
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