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Comments
Also remember that when you look at any car forums or bulletin board, you will see many problems. This is usually the purpose of a forum, to discuss problems. People without problems usually do not post. It is rare to see a post like "50K troublefree miles!!!" (it's not because this doesn't happen, but rather most people have better things to do than post their non-events to a forum).
This seems wrong that a critical component of the car fails after just 40k miles.
Marc
Does anybody have any tips on how to approach Saab? If so, please let me know!
I recently spent over 6000$cdn (4000$US) on my old 900 just keeping it on the road.. so happy to be rid of it.
Any tips out there on some of the things I should do with my new 01?... ie. PREVENTATIVE maintenance (such as changing the spark plugs often to save the IDM?)? What else should I be watching for? What about rust-proofing.. my old 900 was getting unbearable.. the bottom of all the doors were rusting... did Saab do any changes to slow the oxidation process of the metals?
thanks in advance...
as a result ,and just in case , i purchased a di from the internet ,for $210.
and ,i carry it in my trunk . i use the car for long trips and do not want to be at the mercy of a dealer $ 600. for the di is a rip-off because it takes less than 20 minutes ,if , to change this item.
mine is a 2000 aero
changed my oil/filter every 2500 to 3000 miles and transmission fluid every 5 or 6,000 miles.
but when the warranty expired i threw out all the oil purchase receipts
i did my own work most od the time ,but the dealer did a good portion so maybe i am ok. just have to get all receipts from the dealer.
car is now 6 years old and 80,000 miles .
thought that saab built good cars.........major disappointment.
NEW 9-5 Crankcase Vent / Oil Leak si210-2417.pdf 10/2003)
9-5 Crankcase Ventilation / Oil Leak fix .pdf 2002)
I had this service preformed by SAAB Dealer in Feb 2005 - $409.00
DO-NOT-DO bulletin issued by SAAB in 12/2004
Do you think Dealer should refund my money since they SHOULD have
had knowledge this was to be immediately stopped by order of SAAB
and any previously done procedure reversed if demanded by customer.?
What Say ye? - Accsell
I'm considering a 2003 9-5 (4 cyl, 71K miles) as a potential candidate in my search for a newer (and a bit nicer) vehicle. My primary goal is to drive whatever car I select another 100+K miles and enjoy it. I've seen many of the criticisms around the repair history of the European cars, but I'm really taken with the styling. And I like the bit of luxury they offer, too.
So...beyond the normal maitenance just what do I need to be aware of when looking at this car? (Or is the "normal" maitenenace enough to be scared away?...) And what should I be expecting at 71K miles and beyond?
I have no history with Saab at all, so anything you can offer would certainly be appreciated.
Many thanks,
KWS
i am going on 85,000 miles no major problems but with this new engine oil deal --read above --and what i have heard ,i suggest that you think before you buy
STALLING i think that what you describe is vapor lock.
ff
any assistance would be appreciated so I can pass it along to my new mechanic.
this is the way it goes .
you lose the low beam.
the high is good. and you get home with it. maybe ?
then ,you will lose the high beam.
to make the story short.
go to the engine fuse box.
you will see that there are 4 headlight fuses .plus one grey low beam relay,plus an orange low,hi beam relay.
check out the small 4 fuses first . they are in front and next to each other.
if all ok , then the culprit is the orange fuse.
here are your choices ,( i have just learned this over the past few days )
dealer $110 for the fuse plus maybe another $ 60. to install ,etc...or more if they can get away with it )
you---------- and this is what i did after being told how to. $20.
take out the orange fuse by moving the tab on top to the side and then pulling hard on the fuse.
then ,using a small knife pry open the bottom. easy to do,even i did it.
then take out the circuit board .
if you are able ,with a magnifying glass, look at the bottom of the board and you will see that there are 2 or 4 split solders.
resolder.
or, take the fuse out ,take it to a tv repair place and ask them to inspect and resolder the busted part.
total cost $ 20.
and reinstall.
like my granchildren say, ALL DONE.
happy trails again .
and ,in spite of all this and other problems ,this saab is still my favorite car over my mb and others including an fx35.
i may change my mind if this keeps up.
I think that given SAAB's lack of resale, a real steal would be a late model 9-5 AERO with the Air conditioned seats. Or a plain jane 9-5 very late model with a stick for real short (under 20K) money. Throw on some Blizzaks come winter and you would have almost AWD. Its real puzzling why the resale, especially in the Northeast, is so low. All those young studs in Bimmer 3 Series must have a fun time getting around in the white stuff.
I recently bought a used 2000 SAAB 95 (100 K miles) and had the 24 point SAAB mechanical inspection. I had the serpentine belt changed, oil tank leak fixed and oil change. I can't remember if the 'check engine light' was on before I brought it in for inspection, but noticed it a couple hours later after I picked up the car. I brought it in the next day and the dealer assumed it was the sparkplugs so they changed all of them, and it was fine when I picked it up. Then a couple hours later the light came on again. The dealer said that if the sparkplugs don't work then I might have to change the ignition cassette. What exactly is the purpose of the ignition cassette? To start the engine right? Is there a need to do change this? It's quite pricey (they're charging me $500 for it). As far as I'm concerned, my car is in good mechanical order, the engine turns on, hasn't stalled and drives well. So what's your advice? Are there any other factors that cause the engine light to turn on? THANKS!
No, I didn't buy it from an authorized SAAB dealer. I bought it from a small used car dealer. What exactly is the ignition cassette for? Is it to start the engine? Where can I find out more techincal info on SAAB 95? Currently, my 95 is mechanically sound... the engine runs fine, the car drives well, and all the power options work.
I made a slight mistake in my previous posting... it's actually the 'engine malfunction lamp' that is on when I drive, not the 'check engine' light. I read somewhere in the user's manual that you may still be able to drive your SAAB but performance may be affected.
Is it an absolute must to change the cassette at this point? Thanks for your help!
it comes and goes.
i have had dealers do a computer diagnostic and have been told many different things as to what causes it.but mostly it is related to the di cassette.
i do carry a spare cassette that i bought from the internet for $400.it is in the trunk.
in my case the car now has 85,000 miles and i think that my problems started 3 years ago, my aero is a 2000 model , when i cleaned the engine and sprayed water on it.
when i started the car the engine buckled so much that i thought i had broken something internally.after a while it came back to normal.
ever since then the check engine light has been coming on.
i still get 30 to 40 mpg and today i returned from a 1,000 mile trip delivering 31.5 mpg with the a/c on.
i mention the mpg because a lower number would indicate a problem.
hope that this helps.
Do any of you know anything about SAAB remotes? According to the manual, once you change the battery, you should press the unlock button 5 times in order for the car to recognize the signal. However, this doesn't seem to work for mine. Any suggestions? How do I tell if the remote is broken or that the car's sensor is not working? How much does a replacement remote cost?
Thanks.
and one more thing on the engine lite.
it appears that the lite may come and go as a function of the memory retained .
but make sure you double check this out.
in my case i have had the fault erased from the memory twice and it still comes on which may mean that something is wrong somewhere. but as i stated ,so far so good
The ignition cassette is important and you do need to have it replaced - properly - to avoid a complete failure and to protect the catalytic converter from burning up.
In Dec. 2004, at 51,000 miles, my 2000 95 had a complete failure between two hairpin, blind curves on a two lane mountain road. We are very fortunate that this didn't cause a head or rear on collision. In really rough weather, we had to abandon the car - and take up stations uphill and below to warn oncoming traffic that my car was stationary in the middle of their path. The car was eventually towed 110 miles to the nearest open dealership.
The warranty had expired at 50,000 miles. To their credit, the dealership replaced the ignition module gracious. It would have cost me over $1,500. They promised to reimburse for the tow (which they never did).
Remember the saying: 'You get what you Pay for?' The engine light started turning itself on and off. A few weeks ago, at 55,000 miles the car failed again - this time on a busy freeway. Problem? The catalytic converter burned up because the ignition cassette had not been properly installed. Gee thanks!
Another important thing you should look into: Saab Cars sent out a letter on May 17, 2005 to owners of certain models and years regarding a possible engine defect that could cause 'OIL SLUDGE'. Your model is on the list. Saab was offering 'Special Insurance' for eight years to cover the problem. I called my dealership to learn what this is all about. Instead of giving me some basic info; they told me that until my engine fails completely, Saab has no obligation to me. I asked if I had to wait for the car to fail on the freeway and cause a piled up accident to get info on what this 'OIL SLUDGE' problem involves. Answer: 'This conversation is over.' Then the Manager of the Saab Dealership's Service department hangs up on me. Gee, I wasn't asking for a new engine, just a little info! Was that 'Special Insurance Offer' just a rouse to cover up something that should be recalled?
Two weeks after that conversation, the car fails on the freeway and nearly causes a string of accidents! The cause is not 'OIL SLUDGE' but a burned up catalytic converter.
Why? Because that same dealership that refused to answer a few simple questions had improperly installed a DI module, which they had replaced gracious because the original one was defective.
What's a new catalytic converter cost installed? $1,500.
My car has 55,000 miles on it, has had all the services recommended by Saab and many more oil changes than the # they recommend. There is something not right here!
I'd advise getting your ignition module in working order! I'm told that having a 'DI module' (as it's called) fail at 100,000 miles isn't unusual; but, at 50,000 miles it is unheard of. Failure of the catalytic converter happens when the module fails, the car starts misfiring (which you may or may not be able to hear), the exhaust gets over heated because it can't leave the vehicle and the converter just burns up.
I purchased my 2000 95 wagon new from a Saab Dealership - with only 100 miles on it. It's been a most regrettable investment. At 30,000 miles it developed persistent, mysterious oil leaks. The engine was pulled and the head and rear gaskets were replaced at least three times. By 40,000 miles the car's exhaust manifold was blown and exhaust bolts failed due to manufacturer's defects. Once, after having the car for repairs for 42 days, they returned it saying it was a minor problem. That minor problem was that they forgot to reconnect the turbo. The oil leaks persisted and it was back in for repairs within days. At this point I'm thinking that if the car didn't start out a lemon, they are doing a great job of turning it into one.
Before the warranty was up, I took it in for two extra service inspections - for which I paid service fees. One service was with an independent repair shop and the other with a Saab Dealership. The independent repair shop gave me a comprehensive list of what Saab should take care of while the car was under warranty. The Saab Dealership said it was in perfect working order! I had to threaten legal action in order to get the Dealership to implement repairs that were covered by the warranty!
The head technician of my dealership once told me: 'Lady, Saab's not going to figure out what is wrong with your car until the warranty is up!' I couldn't believe that anyone could stay in business with this approach. Well, he was speaking the truth and no wonder he doesn't work their anymore!
My family, extended family and friends have purchased 14 new Saabs in the last two decades (the first one my father purchased in Sweden!) Mine is the only vehicle with problems that smell like a Lemon.
Jigga, my story is not meant to dishearten you on your Saab purchase! Just protect your investment. Get that DI module replaced and look up the 'Special Insurance' Saab is offering for cars of your model and year regarding 'Oil Sludge'; and, follow their recommendations on oil changes and services.
Hope your luck is better than mine!
ernewell
Please see response, #1923 on July14, 2005 to Jigga
re: DI ignition cassette
RE: Need Advice
I'm fed up with the lack of service, mishandling of service and now refusal of service from my local dealership; and, with Saab Cars giving me the run around regarding my 2000 95 wagon. The most recent problem is the Di module that they replaced gracious (though the car was out of warranty); but, installed it improperly and now the catalytic converter has burned up at 55,000 miles.
I'm the last person to resort to legal action; but, they are making it hard for me not to consider that to be my best option.
Any advice would be appreciated.
ernewell
would idle fine and then on acceleration it would stall.
it was a total failure or blocking of the catalytic converter.
this ,it appears had been going on for many years. the car is a 1986 conv. pace car in showrrom condition.
the telltale signs were a ringing or like loose chain being handled.
the sound comes on at idle and you can hear it at the tail pipe.
if your tailpipe has a ringing sound to it ,or similar you may suspect that the cat conv. is falling apart.
in my case i only drive this vette about 1500 miles per year so it was a slow process.
my saab with 86,000 miles now, ( just drove it from vt/ct to fla. ) has a slight ringing to it at the tail pipe on first start,so it appears that the process is beginning.
i do have a spare di cassette with me . but the oe one does not appear to be failing.
i will look into this
Hi,
I'm apologize for 'rattling on' on this message board about the sobful woes of my lemon scented 2000 95 wagon!
What I really do need advice on is what is the relationship between a DI ignition cassette that fails because it was defective and the subsequent burning up of the catalytic converter?
Any advice? Thanks
1) raw fuel going into it
2) too much heat
both the above ,i am told , repeat ,i am told ,can happen when you have a bad dic.
also, and check this one out.
a failure of a cat conv. is a blockage that does not allow the gases out and they back up into the engine causing too much back pressure.
when you start the engine go to the muffler in the back and listen to it.
if you hear rattling sounds that may ,may be , the conv beginning to desintegrate and all that matter then settles and blocks the passage.
SAAB wouldn't be where they are today if a real car guy had been in charge of GM product development. The Car Guy's first memo would have been to SAAB management directing (note, not "suggesting") them to call Haldex by the close of business and begin making the entire line AWD. The second memo would be directing SAAB to air freight before the close of business that day a pallet load of the V6 engines to CA to have a 90 day crash program toward hanging a turbo off each bank. (If Audi can do it, why can't SAAB with far more turbo experience.) They could have called a twin turbo AERO, AERO TWO. The kids would have called it an AERO Deuce within 48 hours and sales would have rocketed. This didn't happen and Suburu and Volvo grabbed the winter niche and ate SAABs lunch.
I'm beginning to thing that Lutz is simply a handsome 73 year old who made too many airplane landings without putting the wheels down. (It is public knowledge that he has done this at least once.)
P.S. Sorry host, but just wanted to add that really quick...
What to Do?
Can't trade - the resale on SAAB's is awful.
Any suggestions - I have contacted SAAB regarding a refund - they indicated [non-permissible content removed] wasn't probable.
Also - is the converter issue related at all to the sludge issue?
Not sure what you mean by "waiting for the turbo to go". But if you are having problems with your turbo maybe an independent shop could install a remanufactured-exchange one for you.
All in all, European car at 4 years and 85K miles will have some problems. But at least when it is running well you have the satisfaction of driving a 9-5.