BMW 3-Series 2005 and earlier

dinanger1 · September 2002

I have a 2001 330ci 5-speed with the works. I enjoy the car...it's rocket fast and handles well. I think the car is more than I need, though, and I've yet to be able to shift smoothly. My passenger's heads are always bobbing around, especially when I'm shifting in the lower gears. I'm contemplating trading to a 325i automatic. Can anyone offer an insight (financial or ortherwise) into this potential decision? Thanks.

mschukar · September 2002

I apologize for prolonging the snow discussion; I should have left it at my original response to an honest question on the topic.

I hope I don't get kicked off the board :-)

-murray

locke2c · September 2002

trent-- don't hit refresh you will repost your last comments.

subscribe and hit "read subscriptions" instead.

;-)

-Colin

dinanger1 · September 2002

I have a 2001 330ci 5-speed with the works. I enjoy the car...it's rocket fast and handles well. I think the car is more than I need, though, and I've yet to be able to shift smoothly. My passenger's heads are always bobbing around, especially when I'm shifting in the lower gears. I'm contemplating trading to a 325i automatic. Can anyone offer an insight (financial or ortherwise) into this potential decision? Thanks.

kdshapiro · September 2002

It's very tough not to post a reply especially when you think you are right

edgeware · September 2002

If you sell your 330Ci yourself, (of course depending on condition, mileage etc) you shouldn't take too big a hit because your car is one of the premier autos on the road.

You'll notice a pretty big difference in power and torque when you go to a 325 automatic, and you may not be as satisfied. If you like shifting yourself and don't need the power, get a 325 manual, go to a good driving school and practice that shifting. You'll be amply rewarded in your driving experience if you learn to drive a manual transmission well, in fact I would go so far as to say you'll probably love it in your BMW!

I'm with Colin, think about it carefully before you do it. After all you got that 330 5 spd for a reason.

jmess · September 2002

I can understand your reasons to switch from the manual to the automatic but going from a 330 manual to a 325 auto would a much bigger move into the slow lane than you might be ready for.

bmw323is · September 2002

I certainly understand the point about driving the 5 speed smoothly. I've been driving stick for over 30 years and the BMW has been the hardest (by far) to shift smoothly every time (except for a '66 Chevelle SS396 my brother owned). I share my driving between my 3 series and a 5 speed pickup, so the back and forth issue makes it even more difficult. My most difficult time is in first gear as the clutch is almost all the way out, sometimes the engine just seems to bog down. If I give it more throttle early, it revs too much. It doesn't do it all the time, so I can't tell if it's me or the car. Anybody notice this? Maybe my little 323i just doesn't have enough power!

Even with that said, don't trade down from a 330 to a 325 auto - I'm looking to go the other way (except with a stick of course).

ccotenj · September 2002

as much as some people may be tired of hearing about it, snow tires are far more important than many other things that get beaten to a pulp in this thread...

re: shifting. practice, practice, practice.

-Chris

div2 · September 2002

Knock it off- we've got MUCH more important things to talk about; best wax, best tire dressing, etc.... It's all in the LOOK dude!

ccotenj · September 2002

darn, how could i forget that "looking good" is better than "being safe and keeping it in one piece"????? what is wrong with me????

-Chris

div2 · September 2002

Just remember- "It is better to look fast than to be fast..."

ccotenj · September 2002

y'know, i must have a hard head, because that just never has sunk in...

-Chris

nyccarguy · September 2002

Chris: I'm impressed that it took you so long to chime in:)

Brave1heart: I agree with you that I like the 2001 headlights better than the 2002s. OT Question for you: Can you tell me the name of those Dunlops you reccomended to me for my friend's A4? If he's got 18,000 miles on his stock Conti's and had a blowout, does Quattro require him to get 4 new tires? Thanks.

If any of you read Road & Track, there is a section of it called People. Places, & Things where I think the genius who crashed his IS300 in the rain after putting armor all on the entire tire and driving with the TRAC off belongs. Either there or Car & Driver's 10 Stupidest things you can do to a car secion in its 10 best issue.

ccotenj · September 2002

i TRIED to stay out of it...

-Chris

dave330i · September 2002

Why would you want to do something so silly? Who cares if your passengers head bobble right now. You will get better. It'll take time and practice, but you will. There must have been a reason why you got the 330i 5-sp in the first place. Don't give up on it so easily.

huntzinger · September 2002

Brave1heart: ... Can you tell me the name of those Dunlops you reccomended to me for my friend's A4?

I'm not BH, but for a summer tire, I'd say that if he was talking Dunlop tires, the models are probably either the SP-9000 or SP-8000 tires. Both are summer performance tires and I've owned a set of each. The 8000 is the better performing tire (dry), whereas the 9000 takes the edge off, but is also the better wet tire. There's also a new SP-9090, but I know nothing about it.

If he's got 18,000 miles on his stock Conti's and had a blowout, does Quattro require him to get 4 new tires?

Probably at least 2, to keep the axle the same composition; check the owner's manual.

-hh

erickpl · September 2002

Don't worry about the passenger's heads. Just kick em out, save the weight, and have fun!

-Paul

nyccarguy · September 2002

Thanks for the advice. I've heard of the SP8000s & SP9000s before, I distincly remember Brave1heart telling me about a certain Dunlop Z rated tire that has somewhat of a "following" among A4 enthusiasts. We figured he'd have to change both rear tires. Ah, the owner's manual...:) There's a concept.

brave1heart · September 2002

You had asked for ALL-SEASONS and I recommended the Dunlop SP5000 which are Z-rated and still great in snow. The Quattro requires that all 4 tires be the same size and tread pattern but I don't remember the manual mentioning anything about new vs. older tires. They'd definitely have to be replaced at least in pairs, although in this case I'd replace all 4 of them because they already have 17K miles on them.

nyccarguy · September 2002

Thanks again for your help!

brave1heart · September 2002

No, it's not you - my 325i is a little touchy in first too. You have to coordinate the gas and clutch just right for a quick and smooth start. Too much gas early without releasing the clutch enough and you are >3K RPM's easily (just ask my wife how I know). Release the clutch a tad too early and the engine gets bogged down for a second or two if the RPM's are still too low. But if you time it just right, the starts are very quick and smooth. The 330 has ample torque at low RPM's and that issue didn't exist there - you just can't bog that engine down! Having the A/C on magnifies the problem BTW.

brave1heart · September 2002

I am thinking of downgrading from Pamela Andersen to Roseanne. Do you think that'll be OK? I just can't seem to make Pam happy...

twoof1 · September 2002

Rosanne.......My car is the Rosanne of 3 series. My therapist is going to have a field day with this one!!

vkwheels · September 2002

Maybe Sandra Bullock, certainly not Roseanne.

mr323 · September 2002

I've been driving 5-speeds for 30 years and agree that the BMW is quite challenging to shift smoothly. With advice from others on this board I learned that I had been shifting in the worst possible part of the RPM spectrum--around the mid-2000s. Above 3 and the shifting (for my 325 , anyway) smooths out considerably. Right around 2000 the start is slow and smooth (just right for driving down populated streets).

I've had the same experience others mention about starts, by the way: get the revs just right and she rockets off the line! Nice to have enough room on the road to do so.

Oh, at higher speeds I find 70mph in 5th = 3000 rpms.

Happy motoring!

Ed

brave1heart · September 2002

lol... I think it's the shrink, not the patient

) I said that only to make a point that going from a manual 330 coupe to a slushie 325 sedan (esp. one without the SP) is a huge drop in EXCITEMENT... The 325 still looks great but I suspect Sandra Bullock may outrun the slushie in the 0-60 sprint

) As far as Sandra, she doesn't do anything for me either - not a lot of sex appeal plus she's boring to watch. Not to mention that other than Speed, all the movies she's been in have been mediocre chick flicks at best...Miss Congeniality anyone?

brave1heart · September 2002

"BMW is quite challenging to shift smoothly." - mmmm, I did not mean a blanket statement like that. Just the 323/325 and just off the start in first gear. The overall shifting experience is almost spiritual IMO but you need to pay attention because the gearbox is a lot more precise than most other cars' out there... plus the engine is very responsive and the RPM's are easy to get up and down fast.

dl7265 · September 2002

evidently Toyota agree's check out the celica ads where the dog chases a parked car.....

And the old man yells at a parked car...

DL

postoak · September 2002

Yes the first gear takeoff is notoriously difficult to get smooth. There's a fairly lengthy thread on this over at bimmerfest. It took me about 6 weeks of driving to get it right, and I've got about 15 years experience with manuals. I think it may be because of the low mass of the crankshaft and fly wheel -- that's just a guess. The key is to raise the rpms higher than you normally would (about 1500 works for me) and then continue to feed even more in as you let out the clutch -- no "rev matching". In stop-and-go you can also get a smooth start by just letting out the clutch moderatly quickly and with your foot completely off the gas, but that results in a REALLY slow start.

locke2c · September 2002

I find 4,000 rpm and dropping the clutch works nicely, a tad of wheelspin and I'm off. Very smooth.

;-)

In all seriousness, with a bit of practice you can takeoff at any rpm from idle to 3k depending on how you feed in the clutch. Of course you need more gas as the clutch engages-- the engine is now moving the car instead of just freewheeling.

-Colin

bmw323is · September 2002

Brave, you are very correct about A/C affecting the smooth takeoff's in first gear. I forgot to mention that having the A/C on makes it much worse. Like you, I'm not a big fan of air conditioning. If I'm trying to enjoy a nice sporty drive, the air conditioning gets turned OFF.

postoak · September 2002

I haven't found that ANY way of letting off the clutch results in a smooth takeoff. Rather, for me, rpm control is the key. If you let the rpms drop, you are in for a bumpy start. You must "overpower" the inertia of the rear drive train by feeding in ever more power.

dave330i · September 2002

I assume all this talk off difficulty in first is on 325? Either that or my 330i is abnormally easy.

postoak · September 2002

I've been speaking about the 325 -- never driven a 330. But this may be a driver-related issue rather than car issue. Perhaps those who experience no problems have quicker reaction times /better coordination than those who do. If you can react to the drop in rpms fast enough and not overdo then you may not see the problem.

That said, I've never had such a hard time on other cars. The Passat, for example, I was able to shift seamlessly almost instantly.

dave330i · September 2002

I know it can't be my reaction time or coordination, so that leaves technique & 325 vs. 330. I achieve the smoothest shift when I let up on the clutch a little before I give it some gas, and just being smooth on both motion.

"That said, I've never had such a hard time on other cars."

Test drive an older Boxster. If that was my car for stop & go traffic, I would seriously consider getting an automatic.

riez · September 2002

Just got back from BMW dealer. Wife's '00 323iA, which she bought CPO 12/1/01 with 18,000 miles, had the brake pad indicator light come on at 34,700 miles. They replaced brake rotors, pads, and sensors. And since the car has been in service 2 full years, time for brake fluid change. All this done free under the basic 3/36 "free" maintenance coverage. (Her tires were also worn so she replaced all four, which she had to pay for.) She just had the Schedule 1 work done at 31,000 miles. Also free. Schedule II won't be due till around 60,000 miles. Next basic oil change service will hit around 46,000 miles or so.

So if she had bought the extended maintenance agreement, all she would definitely get would be a basic oil service which might cost $100-150. Seems like spending $400-$500 on the additional one year of maintenance wouldn't have been worth it for her situation.

tcn2k · September 2002

Under regular maintenance, you are covered:
15k or 1 year - oil
30k - inspection I
2 year - brake fluid
whenever it occurs within 3/36k - brakes
? - Windshield wipers
? - coolant

What else is covered under 3/36k miles maintenance program?

mr323 · September 2002

OK, Brave, "quite challenging" was probably an overstatement, so I'll retract the quite and stand by the challenging. I do have a 325, not a silky-smooth 330, and am 50 (almost 51), but still a decent squash player so the reflexes and coordination aren't completely gone. Your comment about the A/C is very helpful, as I live in Tempe, AZ, and have not yet driven the car *without* the air on. And I do a lot of stop/go in city traffic, so I'm thinking bumpy starts happen because of A/C, tight traffic, and a suboptimal part of the RPM curve...and maybe also not having a 330.

Best wishes,

Ed

dave330i · September 2002

a Z3 2.5 mated to a slushbox yesterday. It's a fun little car, but it needs to be a manual to squeeze all the fun out of it. The steering is noticeably heavier than my 330i, but it's get twitchy over uneven surfaces. The 2.5 engine has plenty of power for such a small car, even with a slushbox.

It makes me think that me in a M Roadster is a perfect recipe for ending up in a ditch.

nyccarguy · September 2002

You're endorsing a car with a slushbox? You feelin' OK? J/K

"It makes me think that me in a M Roadster is a perfect recipe for ending up in a ditch." LOL!

dave330i · September 2002

No, I said it needed a manual to really enjoy it. I did get to chase the new 745i for a bit. The new 7 may not be pretty, but it's scary fast and extremely nimble. It left me behind quite easily.

markjenn · September 2002

I doubt it is the tranny. Sounds like an electronic glitch somewhere: cruise control or the FI system, maybe a bad fuel pressure regulator, sensor, or something like that. It would be extremely unlikely that you'd have a tranmission problem that would clear itself.

I'd be VERY skeptical that there are not some diagnostic codes left over from such an event.

- Mark

1johann · September 2002

Just found one solution on bimmer.org

1johann · September 2002

Just found one solution on bimmer.org

The moisture from the AC coils will CAUSE the musty smell if not allowed to evaporate. The easiest way to prevent this is to turn OFF the AC about 2 minutes before you arrive at your destination and just let the fan blow (the higher the speed the better). This will dry out the moisture in the system. If you forget to switch to FAN only mode prior to turning off the engine and you will be attending the car (e.g. while pumping gas at the station) just leave the key in the ON position and let the fan blow without the AC. Don't do that for too long though cuz you will drain the battery.

: SHORT DESCRIPTION OF PROCEDURE: Fog disinfectant into fresh air intake cowl.

: COMPLETE STEP BY STEP PROCEDURE:
: Description: HVAC vents smell bad when you are not using the air conditioner and especially bad just after the A/C is turned off. It smells fine when the A/C is on and cold. The smell is caused by bacteria, mold, and mildew growing on the damp air conditioner coils in your dash.

: Procedure to eliminate odor:
: 1. Start car.
: 2. Turn on A/C at lowest temperature setting and max fan speed. Make sure it is NOT on recirculate, you want to pull in fresh air from outside.
: 3. Open hood.
: 4. Locate fresh air intake. (It is just under the vents at the top of the hood near the windshield.)
: 5. Remove filter cover. This involves turning three hand locking fasteners and pulling cover toward the front of the car and up.
: 6. Remove filter.
: 7. Fog an antibacterial disinfectant* into this opening where the filter was. Your fan will help draw the disinfectant in and the cold A/C coils will make it condense right where it needs to in order to solve the problem.
: *(Lysol works great and you have lots of flavors to choose from.)
: 8. Turn the car off and reassemble it.

: For best results, but not required:
: 1. Begin with a dry A/C coil (make sure A/C has not been used recently.)
: 2. Complete this procedure when car will not be used for a few hours. This gives the disinfectant time to kill off whatever is growing in there. If you run the car and turn on the A/C right afterward, condensation will dilute and wash away the disinfectant, reducing it's effectiveness.

brave1heart · September 2002

I used to love squash back in college. Talk about a great workout while you are playing something very competitive and fun!! I think I'd dented some of the court walls pretty well

)

kdshapiro · September 2002

I drove a manual for 12 years (not the BMW) and I have to say I always found it more difficult to shift with the A/C on. The A/C saps a lot of power. From every review I've read the BMW has a slightly twitchier mechanism that's a pleasure to drive once you get used to it.

Even in some vehicles with a powerful 8 cylinder the tug of the A/C is very noticable.

mg330ci · September 2002

I know what the problem is:

The irresistible urge to accelerate and let the sweet engine on the 330 sing makes you achieve your desire cruising speed much faster than usually when driving other uninspiring cars.

The remedy, let go to the accelerator a little (trying to stabilize your speed) before upshifting and then accelerate again. This will prevent the head snapping jerky movements you are describing (particularly when going uphill).

It worked for me, but you know what... It is more fun to snap your passenger's neck

erasure213 · September 2002

Hi I have a black 2002 325Ci with just the basics (sport package, automatic, and moonroof).

My questions are:

1. This model does not have the tilt reverse in the passenger side mirror does it?

2. When do I use the DSC button (Dynamic Stability Control)?

3. Would you recommend buying the extra warranty or is it a waste of money?

Any help is greatly appreciated.

erasure213

postoak · September 2002

don't think my 2002 325i has the tilt mirror feature. Can some tell us which models or which options come with this?

As far as DSC goes, the owners manual indicates you should leave it on almost all the time. I think it mentioned "rocking" as an example of when you might need to turn it off.

BMW 3-Series 2005 and earlier

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