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I'll be over at Pontiac if you care to follow.
Happy motoring!
The regular 330i has all season 205/50-17 tires. The 330i SP has lower profile, "staggered" summer performance 225/45-17 and 245/40-17 tires. Optional on the sport package are even lower profile, staggered summer performance 225/40-18 and 255/35-18 tires. I've driven 330is with all three tires back to back, and (to me) there's a significant difference.
Yet another issue is new cars (which can include demos) often have over inflated tires. This can make the car even more jittery and harsh riding. My 330i was delivered with approx 40F & 45R psi in the tires. If abc246's demo car had tires like this, that would explain part of it.
With even the regular 330i SP, and properly-inflated 17 in tires, I can see how someone long accustomed to older, softer riding American cars would initially find it somewhat firm.
Although my 330i SP feels just right, at first it seemed a little firm and choppy. I wondered how on earth could anybody want the even firmer riding 18 in tires? But after a while I got used to it, and now it almost feels too soft on occasion. But it's really just right. The car is very responsive, handling-wise.
To me the only negative thing is a slight tramlining and bump steer effect on some road surfaces. Many 330i SP owners report this, which varies with the exact road surface and tire type. It seems the Michelin Pilot Sport is a little worse in this regard, although it has better grip than the Continental ContiSportContacts. My car has the Contis.
Premium: leather seats, power lumbar adjustment in seats, wood trim, auto dimming mirror, rain sensing wipers, moonroof.
Sport: 3 spoke multifunction steering wheel, 17 X 8 wheels with perf. tires, sport suspension, power seats.
There is also a Sport/Premium package that combines both.
To the test drive poster (I can't remember, are you transitioning from a DeVille?). It's likely just a case of expectations versus reality. The 330i undoubtedly has a tighter suspension than an SUV or large american car, and if that's not what you're looking for, then I'd second the poster who said a Mercedes 320 is probably a much better way to go than a BMW.
Your post made me smile a bit though, because I found my 330i, even with the Sport Package, to be uninspiringly sedate. Do yourself a favor, take an M3 out for a spin. If you absolutely can't get used to the ride, put it behind you and forget you ever considered a BMW. If you can get to love it though, no words are capable of expressing the delight second gear can give you in a long, rising curved on-ramp.
P.S. (If you think the E30/E36 M3s communicated the road feel, try the E46... wooooOOOOOOOOoooooo)
kyfdx
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I encourage people not to buy a BMW just because of the name, but actually test drive all your alternatives.
I bet you will be happier in a Lexus ES 300 sedan. From what you describe abc, this might be your perfect match: peaceful, sedate, complete disengagement from the road, absolute zero noise, etc
I had a 1997 E36 M3 (US), which I absolutely adored. That car was my first BMW, and the torque added a huge amount of confidence on the hills of San Francisco as compared to the Acura Integra GS-R I traded out of.
There's really no comparison between it and my new E46 however. The new M3 is simply a much more raw, extreme car than the E36. Overall, the E36 M3 more closely resembled my 2001 330i than it does the new M3. I wouldn't hesistate to commute the 45 miles to work in the E36, but am looking for a little "commuter" car to accompany the new M3.
The suspension seems mostly comparable, but the bigger 18" tires (especially the fat ones in back) lend the ride a much rougher and "go-kart" feel than the E36, and the engine dynamics are completely different (it revs like a GS-R with torque, to 8000 rpm). The E36 engine revs much more closely to the 330i.
I am going to check out the 330i performance package, which I suspect with the extra 10 hp, re-ratio'd gears and re-tuned suspension is going to be a very close replica to the old M3. Heck, if it's really compelling, I might even try to convince my wife it's the right car to replace the current sedan.
This is in order from firmer/faster to softer/slower. But all are great cars.
I drove it about 3 miles down this dirt road. It handled great off road.
The E46 M3 is stiff -- there is no doubt. It is not going to coddle your backside and you will be able to feel almost any imperfection in the road. Surprisingly though it has such powerful ability to damp bumps, you can actually safely travel much faster over road bumps and dips in it than in any Cadillac or even car based SUV. You will feel them more in the M3, but your tires will spend more time on the pavement and you will have more control than these other cars -- shipo correct me if the vocabulary is not right -- is damping the right word?
Nevertheless, every single time you reach a sharp turn in the road and take it without braking in 3rd or with entry braking and apex accelleration in 2nd, you will just smile from the depths of your soul and you will realize why you love feeling the small imperfections in the road. The E46 does not isolate you from the road and your senses. (This is meant as a generalization for all of the E46 vehicles).
E36 vs E46 M3. (I have driven both, but I own the E46) The E46 is twice the road racer that the E36 is. The torque is unbelievable, the handling is much tighter. 95% of those who drive both cars would strongly prefer the E46. That said, the E36 is a tremendous platform for autocrossing. In the Houston area, it seems that the serious autocrossers prefer the E36 because it has so much more oversteer than the E46. On a cone course, the E46 has a real tendency to push (understeer) and this is its downfall amoung those who are take autocrossing seriously. With that said, it seems that on most of the autocross courses here in town, the E36 M3 will be slightly faster than the E46. If you were to race the two cars on a traditional race track with larger radius turns and longer straightaways (with the opportunity to use more than 2nd gear), the E46 would not lose to the E36. Likewise, in a straight line, there is no competition.
I am planning to plunk money down for a 3-series this winter. Would prefer the manual trans, but it seems the automatic would a better bet for handling the streets in Pacific Heights. And I found that the clutch on my prior BMWs tended to overheat in the all too frequent stop-and-go freeway traffic.
WEIGHT!! of course
I love my 2001 325i (sport package, 225/17/45), but it's time to start searching for new tires. With over 31k on the Continentals, I'm betting that I'll need new skins by end of summer. Any suggestions? We live in the Bay Area (No. Calif.), and I drive it to SF 3-4 times a week. I want to stay with a fairly sticky tire that keeps the road, especially on slick SF streets and rainy freeways.
Any suggestions would be great, though I'd like to keep this at or below $150 per tire.
Thanks,
Mark
However, one suggestion is to go to your local BMW dealer and count the number of 3 series with and without a sunroof. The ratio should give you some indication of the popularity or not of BMWs with sunroofs.
Having said that, there are a number of hills in SF that you may be better off using a handbrake launch for (like when you're on the northern slope of Nob Hill waiting to get onto California).
I lived in the Marina, and in North Beach before that, so for most drives there's almost nowhere you have to go that you can't benchmark a relatively less-aggressive route for (say, using Van Ness rather than Laguna). But the M3 gave me enough confidence that except for the most extreme hills (say, bumper-to-bumper up Telegraph Hill or up Pac Heights using Divisadero) you can engage first with very minimal strain on the clutch of an E36 M3.
I actually found much more strain on the clutch of my Integra on a more moderate but sustained-traffic grade like when you sit in traffic on that long uphill going south on 101 in Marin just before you get back to the Golden Gate.
Having said all that, one of the big reasons we bought the automatic 330i was because the hills are pretty intimidating, and my wife was starting to drive for the first time in almost 8 years. In doing so, we lost a huge amount of fun factor, but there's no doubt it lets you run up and down any hill in the city with complete inpunity.
Bottom line, I'd say if you want the manual, San Fran is definitely livable with a moderate-torque car. You learn which streets are "easier" than others very quickly (no different than choosing a route for walking, after all), and I can probably count on 1 hand the number of times I found it necessary to do a hand-brake launch in 5 years.
Some people seem to make a concerted effort to "hide" their radar detector use from the police by reducing the visibility of its location and choosing detectors with high VG and Spectre counterdetection capability.
Why is this? Radar detectors are legal everywhere but VA and DC right? Do you get more tickets if you are found to be using one? Thanks in advance, I know it's not exactly 3-series related. Maybe I'll restate my question: does using a visible radar detector in a 3-series increase your chances of being "Rodney King'ed" by the SFPD, LAPD or CHiPs?
Radar detectors are legal in all states except Virginia and DC, and the laws against them there are legally questionable. What radio frequencies you can legally receive is determined by the Federal Communications Act of 1934, which still stands today. According to that act, receiving what we today call X, K and Ka band RF is perfectly legal.
That said, it only makes sense to be unobtrusive about detector mounting. You don't want fellow travelers seeing it then tailgaiting you. If you get stopped, you don't want it influencing whether the officer gives you a ticket.
Re whether it's useful, you can't (nor should) drive totally without regard to speed limits. It's generally less useful in the city where trip distences are shorter, there are more non-radar microwave signals (hence false alarms), and driving fast contributes little to average trip times.
That said, some cities have notorious urban radar traps, e.g. a 4-lane divided highway with a long gradual hill and a 25 mph speed limit. Cars tend to coast down the hill and cops sometimes wait concealed at the bottom and nab cars going 30 mph.
Radar detectors are more useful on non-congested open freeways, where you drive longer distences at faster speeds. The US Interstate System was designed in the 1950s to safely support traffic at 75mph (with cars of the 50s), so under proper conditions it's not a safety issue to drive at this speed.
Even with a high quality radar detector, you still have to watch the road, and can't drive lots faster than the average traffic without risk of getting caught. However you can prudently drive along *with* the faster traffic with decreased risk of being singled out for a mandatory contribution to the local municipalities tax base.
How you equip the car can depend on many factors. You do save some money up front by not buying the sunroof. And the lack of a sunroof won't likely matter much at resale time in 5 or more years, esp. if you sell to private party. But it likely will make a big difference if you try to trade it back to a BMW dealer in say 2-3 years. The BMW dealers will want cars like their general buyers are getting. That normally means sunroof, leather, Prem Pkg, CD player, metallic paint, and automatic transmission. The more your car meets their desired profile, the more likely they will want it and the less likely they will be to low ball you because it lacks an option they think it needs to sell quickly.
Manual Trany
Sports Package
Bi-Xenon Lights
Hardon & Kardon
I am looking at asking for $29,500. Do you all think that this is possible. I have not really decided if I really want to add Hardon & Kardon, but I am looking into it. Which would make my asking price around 28,800. Are these prices reasonable, or am I going to be told good luck finding it at that price. This will be the first car that I purchase because I will be graduating from college in that time period. I am also looking at the Audi A4and SAAB 9-3 ARC.
white6: I agree with brave1. Get what you want. What you're looking for is not unusual. There are many people out there that look for cars without moonroof (i.e. auto-x'ers.) I bought mine without moonroof, because I never used mine in my old integra, plus it's one less thing to worry about from breaking down.
Once you drive it fast with the windows down and the roof open you will not want a car without a sunroof.
This all being said, get what you want! A BMW can not be justified under any practical terms, so, if you are going to go for it, get exactly what you want. If you keep it in good condition someone will always take it off your hands when it is time to get rid of it, and you will have had the pleasure of driving the car you wanted, not the car you think the next driver is going to want.
If you like a moonroof and know you'll use it, then get it. If you get a sweet deal on a dealer vehicle, and you like all the other options, then get it. If you want the premium package, it comes with the moonroof.
If you won't use the moonroof, nor need the headroom, or want to save $1050, and don't want the PP, and are ordering the car anyway, then order w/o the moonroof.
There might be a slight resale issue, but I'd bet a manual transmission is a bigger negative resale issue in most parts of the country, yet people don't usually fret about ordering a manual tranny for this reason. The bottom line is get what you want. BMWs are highly desireable, retain value well and if it's in good condition you won't have any problem selling it, moonroof or not.
On one other note, and this is just personal preference, I really like the Sapphire black metallic. I think its well worth the extra $500.
regards,
kyfdx
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What car above a Hyundia Excel can be justified. I know people who won't even get a low-end Honda because it is more than they want to spend. Where does one draw the line in the sand between necessity/practicality and luxury? And by whose yardstick are we measuring?
a little tired or have passengers w/me. With the Beemer, I get through them nice and relaxed- no white knuckles!
I have a moonroof and enjoy it on a daily basis, but alot of people do not want one. It adds weight to the car and knocks about 3" off of the head room. A serious autocrosser would probably not want a moonroof for both reasons -- the loss of headroom makes it really difficult to sit in the car when you are wearing a helmet.
Get what you want. The moonroof will not adversely affect resale value -- IMO. Don't forget there are 280 million people in the US and we are all different.
I can't imagine they'll change the front end any further with only 2 years left on the body. Have you seen pictures of the new 5 and the 3-prototypes? An absolute abomination, in my opinion. The E46s took a year or so to really grow on me, but I think it will take a lot longer than that for the new ones.
Someone wrote that the new 5s look just like a Pontiac Grand Am, and I'm inclined to agree. Horrible. The few pictures I've seen of the new 3 for 2006 look equally unpromising. Is it too late for BMW to reconsider the design changes for the 3 at the very least?
If you don't like the styling of the front end, you can go with the aero kits which may change up the look a bit. When I got my 2002 325xi, I noticed it was different from the 2001's, and I was concerned that I wouldn't like that much. But I really do now. I think the look of the front end is rather agressive, like it is scowling at people.
-Paul
Yes a car without a moonroof is worth a little less at trade-in, as is a car without an automatic transmission. However just as many people find a 5-speed manual worth this small difference in trade-in, likewise some find deleting the moonroof is worth the slightly lower trade-in, esp since (unlike the manual tranny) it's an extra cost item in the first place.