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Toyota Echo

17071737576115

Comments

  • vadpvadp Member Posts: 1,025
    Only the Echo got better proportions.
    The Matrix is starting to look awfull in comparison to the newly styled cars.
  • vadpvadp Member Posts: 1,025
    I thought that it's being replaced with the Scion xA and xB.


     http://www.scion.com/drive/drive_xa_photos.html

  • majorthomechomajorthomecho Member Posts: 1,331
    So power mirrors is now an option on the 2003? Another reason for my roommate to buy one. The lack of power mirrors is the one thing my roommate doesn't like about my 2001 Echo. BTW, she calls it a jelly bean, but she means it in a good way.
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Member Posts: 1,694
    I went to the scion site vadp so helpfully provided. But to me the scanty pictures shot at obilque angles looks like nothing so much as an ECHO! If Toyota does replace ECHO with Scion wont this just be the old switcheroo? I will trade the ECHO in a Dixie minute for a Scion with a 1.5 (or less) diesel engine!
  • babyboomerbabyboomer Member Posts: 205
    My Echo is a 2001 with 15,000 miles. Took it to the dealer for three reasons.
    1. The "rear brake tube freezing" problem did not include my Echo since the newer parts that solve the problem were already included during manufacturing. No charge.
    2. The door lock pulls were rattling. New ones seem thicker and, so far, no more rattling. No charge.
    3. "Check Engine" light came on. I thought it was because of the gas cap not being tight enough but the reason was because of carbon buildup (code 51). Mechanic cleaned top on engine and cleared the codes. Service provider said it was not under warranty so charged $60 labor plus $20 for the cleaner plus tax. Service provider was very nice but told me to use octane 87 and not 89 or 90. Owner's manual reads "select octane rating 87 or higher." I plan to call Toyota customer service about it.
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Member Posts: 1,694
    I looked in the $150 service manual I bought and theres no mention of code 51. They list codes in numerical order, but many of them are not in the book. Im assuming that the dealer added a can of injector cleaner? Because the valves were carboned up? Hmmm. Unlikely that higher octane gas caused this problem, if indeed that is the problem. Also unlikely IMHO that "cleaner" is going to fix anything. How is the car used? Mostly short trips?
  • vadpvadp Member Posts: 1,025
    so I assume you did tell them about 89?
    I think the dealer does have grounds for the clean up charge since the Echo engine was not designed for the higher octane.

    http://theserviceadvisor.com/octane.htm
  • vocusvocus Member Posts: 7,777
    Most any engine will experience carbon build-up if you run 89+ octane gas in it when it only requires 87. Besides wasting money, that's another reason not to spend for the good stuff if your car doesn't need it. :)
  • kaz6kaz6 Member Posts: 331
    Thanks for the link! I just found my next new car!
  • babyboomerbabyboomer Member Posts: 205
    Receipt says "concern 51" so I mistakenly thought that might be the code number. Service provider suggested using different brand of octane 87 gas and start using fuel injector cleaner every other oil change. I called Toyota Customer Service rep, who said the Customer Relations Manager at the dealer will have all the info shortly and should contact me by Wednesday. Service provider at the dealer did not tell me that there was a CRM there. I am not upset at anyone but just trying to get correct info to prevent future carbon buildup.
  • vocusvocus Member Posts: 7,777
    Maybe you will get lucky and they will give you the cash back that you had to spend for the cleaning.
  • vadpvadp Member Posts: 1,025
    Here is another link.

    How about going to the LA AutoShow, checking it out and reporting back to us? ;)


    http://biz.yahoo.com/prnews/030102/lath034_1.html

  • kaz6kaz6 Member Posts: 331
    Thanks for the link! The XA is sounding like an ECHO wagon! I wish I could go to the Auto Show; my work schedule won't allow it. :p
  • sfechosfecho Member Posts: 26
    The Yahoo Echo group had a mention of a cabin air filter located behind the glove box. I don't remember seeing this in the service book. Before I remove the thing, is it cleanable or just replacable? How often should it be cleaned/replaced?
  • vocusvocus Member Posts: 7,777
    My VW has a pollen filter, and you have to replace it every 20K miles. So it's probably only replacable.
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    vocus, you may be right, but he's asking about an Echo.

    Maybe someone else can answer?
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Member Posts: 1,694
    The owners manual for my 2001 ECHO does not mention anything about servicing a cabin air filter (as you say) so I think we can assume that there isnt one and the yahoo people are indeed yahoos.
  • dsgechodsgecho Member Posts: 89
    Since there is a filter for particulate matter in the Prius in that exact location, I would check it out first before I dismiss the comments. I forget how one gets access I think there are some catches you pish in the back part of the glove box to fold it down and out of the way to gain filter access.
    Don Gillespie
    Nashville TN
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Member Posts: 1,694
    Behind the glove box on my 2001 ECHO is the cars computer. No air filter.
  • janbeejanbee Member Posts: 127
    I have a 2000 echo and the moulding or cladding that goes around the base of the car on the passenger side door was starting to come off. Today I took my car in for its oil change and asked them to stick it back on. When I was paying for my oil change & I guess I needed a new air filter as well, they told me they had the moulding part in stock and put it on (I guess when it starts to come loose you cant just stick in back on) anyways there was no charge, just thought this might be somewhat informative.
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Member Posts: 1,694
    How many miles were on the cladding when it failed?
  • sfechosfecho Member Posts: 26
    I was at my Toyota dealer today, getting the brake line recall done and also got the rattling door lock pulls fixed. There is a TSB on the door locks.
    I had the service coordinator show me the mystery cabin air filter.
    If you remove the glove box by squeezing its sides, look for a white plastic panel with tabs on each side behind the glove box. Pull the filter out by the tabs. He said it should be replaced every 18 months if it is humid or dusty where you drive. Since its neither of those here in San Francisco, I'm not going to worry, besides it costs $31.14!
  • janbeejanbee Member Posts: 127
    I have about 17,000KM now and it happened a couple months ago so prob started peeling back at 15-16,000KM.
  • wrgrahamwrgraham Member Posts: 112
    Several days back there were some exchanges about using 89 or higher octane being a possible cause of carbon buildup. I very much disagree. I use the 89 octane and am now at 67K miles and my Echo runs great. At 90K it will be time to replace the iridium plugs. The only Toyota vehicle that I have used with regular gas is my 89 pickup, which is the most basic model and hasn't a lot of power coming out of that 22R engine. Still I can get pinging coming up the hill to my house, in 3rd gear, which is not there with the 89 octane.
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Member Posts: 1,694
    I agree I dont see how 89 octane can cause carbon buildup. Neither does it make sence that a car with so little mileage would have this probelm (I could be wrong) Nor would fuel additives make a bit of difference if you DID have carbon buildup. (I guess Im negitive today)
  • kaz6kaz6 Member Posts: 331
    I have used 89 & 87 octane and the differences for me are: 87 gives me the best mileage and 89 gets rid of knocking/pinging at idle.
    The 89 octane actually lowers my mpg as well.
    As far as carbon build-up...I don't know. I've used 89 octane in my previous car with no ill effect and three motorcycles ran on Premium when only 87 was req'd. The cylinder heads in those motyorcycles were very clean as were the exhaust outlets.
  • babyboomerbabyboomer Member Posts: 205
    The check light came on again one day after the carbon deposits cleaning was done and the computer was reset. My son returned the Echo to the dealer. They wanted to check everything so gave him a nice loaner for the day. When he returned, the service provider said they would have to order a part that has something to do with the fuel system (my son is not mechanically knowledgeable so he is not sure what they ordered). The check light is still on and the engine still idles rough when cold. The earliest we can get the car back to the dealer will be next Friday. The Customer Service Rep has not contacted me yet about the initial fuel system cleaning charges. To be continued.
  • echorickechorick Member Posts: 27
    I have 39,000 miles on my 2000 ECHO and it has always been serviced at specified intervals with dino oil. I drive about 320 miles per week at freeway speeds.

    I plan to keep this car as long as possible. At this point, would it make any sense to flush the oil and move to synthetic oil? If so, is one brand better than another?

    Thanks for any insights.
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Member Posts: 1,694
    As I suspected there was no carbon buildup in your engine, there was some other problem which they apparently solved. Id try to get my money back for the bogus "cleaner" treatment. (let this be a lesson to others as well)
    There is absolutely NO advantage to switching to synthetic oil, it will only be more expensive. Synthetic oil will only help your car start in really (0 degrees F or lower) temperatures. You should continue following the maintainence schedule and use regular oil. I realize you are concerned about keeping your car in as good a shape as possible, but synthetic oil IS NO BETTER THAN REGULAR OIL for this purpose. It only works better in extreme conditions.
  • vadpvadp Member Posts: 1,025
    Make your own decision by reading this forum.

    WARNING:there are lots of things to learn.

    http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Member Posts: 1,694
    One thing I forgot to mention. If the check engine light comes on the first thing to do is 1) check the gasket of the gas cap. If its bad, replace it. 2) make sure the gas cap is on tightly because if its not, the check engine light will come on and there may be other problems.
    Its something you can do yourself.
  • biggie4852biggie4852 Member Posts: 34
    Riding down I10 and the darn window start to crack. No rock hit it, just a small crack at the very top on passenger side. Next morning went to my dealership they were unable to say it was an impact crack. So tomorrow they will replace windshield. Just never heard of this on any car. What cause it I have no idea but one old timer at the service desk said it use to occur on some Toyota.
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Member Posts: 1,694
    Perhaps it was installed improperly. Ive had replacement windows break like that and when I brought it back they said it wasnt put in right.
  • vocusvocus Member Posts: 7,777
    It was a stress crack. Could have been the glass that was not heat tempered properly when made.
  • kaz6kaz6 Member Posts: 331
    I passed the 40k mark a couple of weeks ago! I have a 4-dr./5-spd/'01. I've been running it on Mobil 1 5-30 and Yokohama YK420's getting avg. of 35mpg. The Yokohama's are very quiet on most surfaces (they have aggressive tread pattern) but are kinda noisey on concrete. The tread looks like it'll hold up to 50-60k.
    My engine idles with a bit more noise than when new and I had a creaking sound from the back-the latch on the seatbacks needed oiling. Other than that, it's holding up fairly well.
    If anyone is planning on extended highway driving, I highly recommend using a bra as the design of the front end takes a beating-the nose is fairly blunt and seems to get more stone damage than other cars I've owned. I went through some bad windstorms in the desert and have to have my hood and front bumper repainted. :p
    I plan on upgrading my shocks for something firmer at 50k. Any suggestions out there?
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Member Posts: 1,694
    I jusr read the average price for a new car is $25,000. My ECHO cost 1/2 that. Gotta love it!
      Unfortunately I have no idea where to get different things like shocks for the ECHO. They (the shocks) are pretty small though.
  • jackiedoodlejackiedoodle Member Posts: 11
    My Echo has 34,000 miles under its belt and has been absolutely spiffy. I change the oil every 3000 miles at the zippy lube. I get a chassi lube for my 1990 riviera, but they say the Echo does not need one. I paid $90 for two seat covers from Toyota which seemed expensive at the time, but now I'm glad I did it. Why doesn't the Echo need a chassi lube? I also got the darkest window tinting allowed by law ($150 at a specialty shop) and it looks great with the white paint. I paid $12,300 for the two door, auto, air and rear window defogger package.
  • vadpvadp Member Posts: 1,025
    Modern cars don't need any chassis lubing.
    It's been that way for quite some time. I'm surprised to hear that your 1990 Riviera does need it.
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Member Posts: 1,694
    Hey it could be worse. They might have charged you $$$ for a lube you did not need. At least they were honest! Usually things like ball joints, tie rod ends, and driveshafts get hit with the grease gun, but ECHO doesnt have that kind of drive shaft and all of the other places are sealed for life. Whatever that means. Good luck with your ECHO...sounds like a typical story.
  • kaz6kaz6 Member Posts: 331
    I took the advice of a prior posting and checked out that white box behind the glove-box. There is a tray for an air filter to go into that is right above the fan housing. I think I will splurge and buy the filter as my finger picked up a lot of Los Angeles residue on the edges!~
    I guess they have a pollen filter as available or standard equipment on the Yaris? I would think that Toyota would mention at least the availability of pollen filter on the a/c. In a polluted area like LA, it comes in very handy.
  • kaz6kaz6 Member Posts: 331
    I went to my dealer today and the parts dept. said that while they do have the filter casing (the white tray)in their diagram, there is no part no. for an actual filter!
    I forgot what number post mentioned the price, etc. but I wonder if this was a Canadian model?
  • wrgrahamwrgraham Member Posts: 112
    I am now at 68K miles and got my first problem, but it is a small one. Opening the drivers door does not cause interior lights to go on. Also noticed that if I leave headlights on and turn off the car and get out there is no longer the warning beep. So my dealer checked it out and said the switch had gone bad in there. I'll need a new one, and now I am out of warranty. But it is a rather inexpensive item. Also just washed the car yesterday, and looked it over carefully. There are some little scratchy marks and a few little indentations also. Noticeable stuff but nothing to the point where rust would have an opportunity to start. I am also pleased at how the body cladding has worked out, down along the lower portions of the car. When I first bought the car I didn't want the body cladding, but my choice of options gave me no choice. I was afraid the cladding would detach or hold water pockets and make rust, or some other problem that I could do without. But happily it seems to be doing its job well. I hope it stays that way.
  • babyboomerbabyboomer Member Posts: 205
    Dealer kept Echo 5 hours but fixed the check light problem again (first time was cleaning engine). This time it was "wrong spark plugs installed at factory." No charge since in warranty.
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Member Posts: 1,694
    Im wondering how long the engine ran with the wrong plugs before the check engine light came on? Did they show you the "wrong plugs'? Did they say what the error code was?
  • babyboomerbabyboomer Member Posts: 205
    My mechanically naive son is driving the Echo at school in Florida so I was not there to ask our dealer (located in Georgia) questions. I am sure they did not show him the old plugs (he would not have thought to ask to see them and would not know what to look for) and they did not give him any paperwork about what was done. And I never did hear from the customer rep at the dealer. Time for another phone call for answers. Just hoping new plugs did solve the problem.
  • kaz6kaz6 Member Posts: 331
    I finally went back to find the posting mentioning the cost of the cabin air filter element. sfecho, did your parts dept. have it listed on the ECHO parts list, of is it in the Prius list? My dealer could not find it for ECHO but the tray that holds the filter is listed!
  • pulgopulgo Member Posts: 400
    I don't know if this info is of any use for you but in Germany the air filter is listed under part number 08974-00820 (toyota yaris) and the current price is € 35.- (35 euros = aprox. US$ 37.93, today's exchange rate).
    I am getting one sent by a friend of mine in Germany and will let you guys (and gals) know how it fits and works. It's an expensive part which should last for 1 year. If anybody comes up with a supplier for less $$$ I sure would like to know.
  • sfechosfecho Member Posts: 26
    kaz6- The part number for the filter my dealer gave me is 87139-47010 and a price of $31.14. I didn't order one, so let me know your success for future reference.
  • pulgopulgo Member Posts: 400
    The filter is available in Canada at Toyota Dealerships for CAD $ 33 plus taxes! Price in US$ is aprox. $ 25.
  • kaz6kaz6 Member Posts: 331
    Thanks for the help, guys! I'll keep you posted as soon as I can get one!
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