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Mercedes-Benz E-Class Sedans
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Comments
alirob
I hang on the phone for awhile to cancel it, finally give up and leave a message.
Now everytime I start the car I get a little commercial message to look at Tele Aid, and when I shut down I get a "malfunction" message because I don't subscribe to Tele Aid.
I think this is a fine service for those who want it, but it sure seems like a heavy handed approach trying to jam it down my throat, and I kind of resent it.
Also note: There is a kill fuse in the battery compartment (under the seat). We should all learn how to pull this fuse because in certain electronic malfunctions (and they can happen with these cars), it is only way to shut down the car.
Don't know which year/options you have, but there is no reference anywhere (owners-manual or fuse designator cards) to a kill fuse in 2000 E-Class manuals. And, I suspect that any car that required pulling a fuse (particularly under a seat) to shut down the car would attract the attention of the NHTSB as a safety concern.
For those who haven't studied the manual or the "nooks and crannies" of their cars, there are three locations for fuses: under the hood on the left side, under the seat near the battery, and behind a trap-door next to the headlight switch, accessible with the drivers door opened. There are reference cards (which fuse does what, what size is specified) in each compartment, and even some spare fuses. The legends (translated from German, of course - and there's German on the back sides of these cards) are generally intelligible, with some whimsy mixed in, e.g. "Fanfare"?! - the horn, perhaps. Or, "E-Call" which might be the Tele-aid system. For those who haven't explored under the back seat - getting it out is not obvious. Under each front corner there is a little plastic lift lever that releases a clamp that holds the seat in place. Other car brands frequently do not have this release. I'd suggest practicing this, finding the fuses, and finding the jumper-cable lugs under the hood so you know where they are if you ever need to access them.
rokinkead, Did I miss the kill fuse somewhere?
If enough people don't renew their Tele-Aid subscriptions, do you think MB will get the hint that it's a good for nothing expensive feature?
I've never used tele-aid (I have the integrated phone) and will not renew.
Since all E's have a basic analog cell phone system there are much cooler things that could be done with it than Tele-Aid. You could truely integrate the car w/their (vastly overpriced) Timeport phone and allow users to monitor the interior, check/set windows, locks, headlights, alarms, etc. It would just be a little bit of software. I'd love to walk down the hall to my buddy who owns the X5, flip open my color Timeport, and show him my windows are up, close the sunroof, etc.
Enjoy and have a great weekend folks,
BigRob.
What make of Gas you guys prefer?
Thanks for the input.
I've used Tele-Aid twice. The first time was 2 days after I had the car and the windows got out of sync during a rainstorm. They helped me when riffling through the owners manual was not practical. The second is when the car would immediately stop after I started it. Turned out the red window on the key was dirty, which confused the car into thinking there was a security violation. Wiping off the red window (at the suggestion of the Tele-Aid agent) immediately fixed the problem.
I renewed Tele-Aid, really for just one reason. I get the "LoJack" discount on my comprehensive insurance because of the Tele-Aid stealth recovery feature. They can find your car if it is swiped, or, (if your paranoid)if you let your teenagers, your spouse, or an employee use your car and wish to know whether they are going where they say, you can get the car located for you. As far as the concierge services, they can put that where the sun doesn't shine: I'll find my own restaurants, thanks!
The insurance discount doesn't offset the Tele-Aid cost by a wide margin, but I've had four cars stolen, am tired of it, and want the (expletive-deleted)'s caught, not just the recovery of the car
If MB dicker on price if you threaten to drop the service, I know what I'm going to do when my renewal comes up. As the old story says, "we've established what I am - - now we're haggling over the price!"
Instructions for changing the oil can be found at:
http://www.mercedesshop.com/diy_oil_change2.htm
Reading about fuses and other parts under the hood, the one thing I haven't found is a hood light. Does anyone have one?
I had 2 young children at home at the time. I was lucky i n that I did not get acid in my face as I like to reach in and start the car for a minute before getting in. Nobody was around and got sprayed either. The fine seals of the compartment kept it mostly contained. The explosion was very loud, and I don't think I could handle it if it happened in my back seat, and now my kids are older, they ride with me in the morning to school. In the back seat.
That was one big mutha battery also. It was original equip. At 5 years the one in my E will be replaced regardless.
I took a box of baking soda and sprinkled it in the engine area to reduce the amount of acid. Had the car loaded on a flat bed and had electronics checked and new interstate battery installed. I was shaken but not stirred!
I think that if a battery goes 5 years, time for a new one, regardless of how well it works.
Best Regards,
Shipo
http://www.mercedesshop.com/diy_oil_change2.htm. I normally have my oil changed at a local shop (serve only MB, BMW, AUdi...) for $25. However I would like to DIY because I like to know more about the engine of my MB E320 '96. I stopped by Pepboy yesterday and it carries Purelator oil filter for '96 but I found that it has only 2 ring, one large O-ring (probably for a canister) and a small (3/4" in diameter)gasket-like ring. I am not sure where this small ring fit. I am sure if I open the canister I will find out, but I don't like surprises. Anybody has a good instruction on how and where this one fit for E320 '96. Thanks
Go to Yahoo! Shopping: http://shopping.yahoo.com
From there, execute a search for "Mobil 1 Oil", currently the 6th entry is for "Park Place Motorcars" (I think that they are a Dallas area MB dealer), and they sell Mobil 1 0W-40 for $5.85 per quart plus a flat $3.50 shipping fee (per order not per quart). Not exactly cheap, but when you are the only game in town, you get to name your price.
Best Regards,
Shipo
Aside from the filter element itself, the box the filter came in should contain:
a) A larger O-ring. This O-rings fits into a groove in the canister cap, just above the threads.
b) A crush-type gasket for the drain plug. As the name says, it goes on the drain plug and is usually made out of a softer kind of metal.
The article that you referenced in your post describes a different engine. The 140.995 I6 has a metal pipe that the filter element slips over, not a plastic post with O-rings as described in the article.
Or in other words, your oil change should be even easier. However, if you have the plastic canister cap, make sure to get the right socket. (14 pt, 74.4 mm)
Good luck !
Vinh
Thanks again
As for a 5000 mile oil change, I have long been an advocate of using Synthetic Oil and extending oil change intervals to the factory recommendation. Many folks get positively apoplectic (sort of like a religious thing) when they hear such advice, however, oil technology has changed dramatically over the last twenty years and yet many folks still stick to the oil change interval that was required for cars back in the 1960’s. Consider the following points:
All recent Mercedes-Benz cars are certified as either Low Emission Vehicle (LEV) or Ultra Low Emission Vehicle (ULEV). What that means (among other things) is that your engine is producing far fewer combustion by-products than that of engines of just a few years ago, and by extension, that means that there is far less of that gunk (a technical term that) to keep in suspension in the oil. Result: the ability to extend oil change intervals.
Synthetic oil has FAR greater capacity to keep the various contaminates (particulate and chemical) in suspension than standard Dino Juice. Result: the ability to extend oil change intervals.
The Mercedes-Benz engineers (and other European manufacturers as well) have seen fit to enlarge the oil sump on their engines when compared to American or Japanese engines of similar displacement. That extra capacity for oil not only allows for even more ability to hold gunk in suspension, it also means that any given unit of oil circulates through the engine less per 1,000 miles driven than many other cars. Result: the ability to extend oil change intervals.
My last argument; discarding used oil is not the most environmentally friendly thing one can do, so extending oil changes is good for the environment.
Long story short; my recommendation to folks who drive cars which are designed to take advantage of the properties of Synthetic Oil (MB, Audi, Porsche, BMW ) is to do just that, take advantage of the longer oil change interval provided for by the manufacturer.
Best Regards,
Shipo
The vacuum pump actually works very well, it's almost as efficient as a drain, and it should be sufficient for the oil changes between service intervals. (You can find 'self service oil change stations' at gas stations in Germany, operating with a siphon.)
The reason I don't siphon is because I like to inspect the underside of my car during oil changes.
cduong - The discussion about synthetic oil is one of the most active ones and people have fairly strong opinions about it. (see the maintenance and repair board) Again, this is a German vehicle. The environmental fees for disposing used oil are rather high in that country, and so are labor costs. It is almost impossible to get anything but synthetic oil in Germany, as almost every vehicle on the road uses the extended oil change intervals. Given that the engine was likely built with synthetic oil in mind, I use Mobil 1 for my E320. I have not experienced any leaky gaskets. For newer engines, Mercedes Benz actually recommends synthetic oils only.
I do not extend my drain intervals, but that is mostly because the car is being driven relatively little, so that I change on a time rather than a mileage basis.
If yes, did they see any difference in there car(the way it runs) or if anybody tried any other types could you please share your thoughts on that?
Thanks in advance.
http://www.ftc.gov/opa/2001/02/zmax1.htm
It consists of added packages at no additional cost.
For the E320, They come either in an obsidian Black model with Oyster Leather Interior or a Quartz Silver Model has an Ash Leather interior. Standard is the following options at no extra cost: polished finished 17 " Alloy wheels, Glass sunroof, rain sensor with intermittent winshield wiper speed setting,an audio Bose sound system, and Special Floor mats.
As for the E430 model, in addition to the above mentioned options, included is brilliant Xenon lights with headlamp washers.
I thought about sharing these notes with all of you...I hope this is informative enough..
P.S. The 2003 E Class will hit the show rooms early spring 2002. A demo will be availale in the Southern california area mid to late February.
Cheers
Johnny2k
I am in the market for one or another of these two cars. I have never owned an MB or an Audi. I am able to get a 2002 A6 4.2 quattro for $1,000 over invoice, which amounts to $47,157 the way I have it equipped. My local MB dealer will not move much off of MSRP for a 2002 E430 4Matic, which with E1 and E2, comes in at $59,720. The cars are equipped about the same, and I am having a hard time justifying the $12,500 difference. Can anyone out there share their view of these two cars? Has anyone owned both an Audi and a MB to compare the two over time? Finally, is my local MB dealer out of touch with the market?Thanks.
You should be able to get a "near or below invoice" deal on the E430 4-matic. I was offered $2,000 below invoice for a brand new 2001 E-class (wagon) in June. I have heard that MBNA is now giving a $1,500 dealer discount on 2002 E's from a friend who is a leasing specialist with a DC area dealership. I know for a fact I could get a Wagon for $500 below invoice. I would expect the deals to get better as the 2002 model winds down, unless Mercedes has limited production for the 2002 430 models.
With respect to the Audi vs. Mercedes comparison, I would point out Audi resale values appear lower (considerably, in some cases) than Mercedes. I have a friend who has an A6 Avant and loves it. However, he also intends to keep it at least 7+ years and was not concerned about resale. If you intend to sell / trade within 5 years, resale vvalue should be factored into your analysis.
We are still considering replacing our SUV with a wagon and in my comparison between the E320 4-matic and Volvo V70T5, I concluded that the extra $12k+ for the Mercedes would be worth it. The Mercedes wagon has exceptional resale in the DC area, whereas the Volvo depreciates much more rapidly. I would intend to keep the car 8+ years, but still consider resale some indication of long term quality and reliability.
Just my two cents.
I'm paying around the invoice price on this car. Is this a ok deal?
Thanks for any input.
Thanks.
Lowering the tire pressure made a huge difference. I recommend you try to find a pressure high 20's to low 30's that presents the best tradeoff of comfort vs. handling and wear.
Thanks for the feedback, tonight on the way home I brought the tire pressure from 32 to 27lbs and it made a modest improvement. For some reason the car feels very firm but in an unbalanced way. I have owned BMW's and I also own a C5 Corvette and the MB ride just seems very weird to me now. I would love to ride in a E55 to feel how it rides and handles for a comparison. Are these shocks adjustable? Maybe they are set to the firm....... setting?
M
My description of the ride in my car has gone from poor to outstanding. I hope you have the same experience.
49,300 mi - white ext. tan int - all std e3320 equip + bose stereo upgrade, cd changer, xenons, headlight washers - all books and records for service, excellent cond.
has reduced price from orig ask of $34K to now asking $32K, can get for betw. $30-31K
good price? any thoughts/suggestions? (i need to stay in the $30K range)
thanks in advance - btw, you folks have an outstanding forum, enjoyable, educational and entertaining
Go to your dealer and have them replaced!