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Mercedes-Benz E-Class Sedans

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Comments

  • laurasdadalaurasdada Member Posts: 4,686
    Yes, Ja, Si, Da... My next car purchase net will be widely cast...

    I fully understand/believe that the CR/JDP surveys do not guarantee that the singular vehicle you purchase will be dead reliable or a money pit as a rating may indicate.

    I/my father have owned German, Swedish, French, US and Japaneese cars since (my earliest car memories) the late '60s. To be honest the only poor car that I can recall was a 70s Ford that led to my father's boycott of the domestics for a while. Except for the '76 Eldo convertible he bought for my mom as the convertible was to be a dinosaur after that point in time. And mom did so enjoy her ragtops... In the 90s and beyond he/Mom had some Chryslers that were no problems while the Caddy Catera he loved driving was a reliabilty nightmare/mechanic's dream. So, overall, for him the domestics had the lowest batting average, but most were okey-dokey.

    As noted, I did buy a domestic in '99 which was the first domestic I have ever purchased. And it was a lovely car/experience. Unfortunately my penchant for Japanese wheels is due to a combination of factors. Mostly that the domestic offerings just do nothing for me (generally very weak interiors and uninspired exterior styling, not to mention the driving experience) while Euros of the ilk I would like tend to be (relatively) pricey. Funny thing is, for most of my adult, professional life I could afford a Euro ride but my New England frugality got in the way. Or something, I'm sure Dr. Bob Hartley could explain my issues (just dated myslef again...). Japan, Inc has just always had a car that worked for me with, in the words of a Santana song, "A little bit of this, a little bit of that..."

    Anyway, beyond the pop references, I was seriously considering an E320, CLK and 330 (pre-Bangle)in late '04, but for whatever Freudian reasons the TL became my chariot of choice (2.9% financing probably swayed my inner-pre-Christmas Eve ghosts-Scrooge)and I have no regrets. My Dad always wanted a Bavaria and 2002 (Mom did have a series of Mercedes, she was actually from Germany), but it never did happen for him (he currently also loves his '05 TL).

    When the time comes, I am going to make a conscious effort to go Continental (Not Lincoln!). My mid-life crisis has me hankerin' for a hardtop convertible (again, New England practicality? Or was that frugality?), but a beautiful Coupe could fit the bill...

    Thanks for reading this meander down Auto Psychosis Lane...

    Per chance, are any of your relatives graduates of UConn?

    '21 Dark Blue/Black Audi A7 PHEV (mine); '22 White/Beige BMW X3 (hers); '20 Estoril Blue/Oyster BMW M240xi 'Vert (Ours, read: hers in 'vert weather; mine during Nor'easters...)

  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    Oh geez, this is scary. I followed ever word. ;-)

    "Per chance, are any of your relatives graduates of UConn?"

    Nope, virtually all of sibilings, cousins and other relatives are Spartans or Wolverines. Me? I'm a drop-out. :blush:

    That said, apparently Claire of news broadcasting fame is a not too distant cousin. :shades:

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • laurasdadalaurasdada Member Posts: 4,686
    Hmmmm. Spartans or Wolverines, now why is that germane to New England? As a patriot to my beloved New England university, I shouldn't have favorable thoughts towards Michigan schools of higher ed, yet something in the back of my mind thinks there's some special connection, something super even. If only I could get a quarter back for every time I had such thoughts, I could probably pay my brother Tom back the 12 bucks I owe him... Just trying to scare you some more... And I do have a brother named Tom. Who does not need any money from me. If only the reverse were true!

    Long ago and far away I went to UConn with a gentleman who shared your surname, which led to my shot in the dark query, my Clouseau imitation.

    I'm worse than a drop-out. I'm a Husky Alumnus! Not that there's anything wrong with that...

    Sorry for the ramblings, off-topic-ish. Been working a little too much lately.

    Plan to ski in your adopted state soon although in my heart, Vermont rules!

    E Class good. :D

    '21 Dark Blue/Black Audi A7 PHEV (mine); '22 White/Beige BMW X3 (hers); '20 Estoril Blue/Oyster BMW M240xi 'Vert (Ours, read: hers in 'vert weather; mine during Nor'easters...)

  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    Ramblings... good. ;-)
  • dirtyharyusdirtyharyus Member Posts: 3
    Hi,
    Can someone please tell me what the difference is between W vs S ride setting in a 1999 E320? I know one is for winter and the other is for standard condition but what is the technical difference the two.

    Would there be a difference in fuel economy between the two settings? Iam getting about 20 mpg in city+highway driving with W setting. Is this avg or very low?

    This car has been driven mostly with W setting even in California, about 55k miles. If I change to S setting would I encounter any problems? Would there be any negative effect of continuously using W setting for long.

    Thanks in advance.
  • merc1merc1 Member Posts: 6,081
    I have a 2003 CLK430 with the same button. The S most is for sport. More immediate kick downs and higher revs for better acceleration and the car starts out in 1st gear. The "W" or Winter mode starts the car out in 2nd gear and you won't get the sporty redline shifts.

    In Cali I would be in S all the time since there isn't any winter driving like there is here in Chicago.

    There would be no "problems" with using either mode, but S makes the car drive sportier if you like that sort of thing. Naturally you get better MPG in W mode compared to S mode.

    M
  • microrepairmicrorepair Member Posts: 508
    Technically speaking, the "S" is for SUMMER, the "W" for WINTER. In S mode the transmission uses first gear; in W mode it starts off in second gear. Not using first gear does not guarantee better gas mileage. It all depends on how heavy you are on the gas pedal as you start off.

    Read the manual on when you can change the settings. I don't recall, but I'm sure they tell you NOT to change the setting as you're moving along. After all, it is changing something in the transmission and I think you need to make the change while stopped in neutral or something like that.
  • merc1merc1 Member Posts: 6,081
    Technically speaking, the "S" is for SUMMER, the "W" for WINTER.

    Yep, you're correct. Don't know where I got "sport" from.

    M
  • marsha7marsha7 Member Posts: 3,703
    do you use in the fall and spring???

    OK, I'm going back to bed now...:):):):):)
  • merc1merc1 Member Posts: 6,081
    LOL.

    Until I have to actually drive in some snow I stay in "S" mode.

    M
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Member Posts: 1,134
    )) "So, what settings do you use in the fall and spring???" ((

    "f" & "s". (Geeez...)
  • microrepairmicrorepair Member Posts: 508
    But if "S" could mean Sport, then maybe "W" could mean Wuss ??
  • microrepairmicrorepair Member Posts: 508
    I'll usually wait until there is a threat of snow before setting to "W" or until the crocus are popping up before setting to "S". But if heading into severe rain on oily roads, I will set to "W" just to limit the wheelspin on take off..
  • merc1merc1 Member Posts: 6,081
    :P

    Either way I hope the weather holds and I don't have to switch to it this year.

    M
  • bpattersbpatters Member Posts: 1
    I need to find a replacement cupholder for the one missing out of the front seat of the car I just bought. The car I bought was leased for one year, then returned. It seems he took these small things that are not essential to driving, but are inconvenient to be missing, like this cup holder, the first aid kit, and I'm not sure what else.
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Member Posts: 1,134
    Any Mercedes dealer's part department can order one up for you if you're willing to chance dealership extortionist pricing. You might get lucky with an eBay search. Try an auto recycler (aka, "junk yard").

    (Don't be too quick to accuse the former lessee - he/she may've returned the car with everything intact. It's possible the dealer you purchased the car from lifted parts for resale through its parts department. {Who knows - you might even get the opportunity to buy back the same cupholder and 1st aid kit your car originally came with... ;)}. It's also possible a sticky-fingered lot monkey snatched the goodies for his own use while the car was being prepped for display after it was returned off lease. Or even a sticky-fingered shopper. The list is endless.
  • beancounter6beancounter6 Member Posts: 7
    Recently got lease on a new 2007 E350 (with sport package and 18 inch wheels with lower profile tires) and have noticed rear tire noise that is higher than expected (and higher than the 2003 Passat I traded in). Didn't notice this on the test drives with salesman. Becomes most noticable above 40 mph.

    Is this typical? Anything I can do to reduce the noise?

    Other than this, car is a dream.
  • garyh1garyh1 Member Posts: 394
    One possibility is to check the air pressure in the tires. They often come off the boat with extra air in them, and if the dealer forgets to bleed them, they will run rougher and noisier than usual. Some brands of low profile tires are noisy, but there's no reason the rear ones would be noisier than the front ones.
  • barry45rpmbarry45rpm Member Posts: 98
    ...except that the rear tires are wider than the front with the Sports Package. You might have test driven a 4wd car with the Sports Package. All 4 tires are the same size in that case.
  • beancounter6beancounter6 Member Posts: 7
    I found this excerpt from an MB Internet ad for the E350 - this relates to the Sports Package option that comes with the low profile tires:

    "** Lower aspect ratio tires and accompanying wheels provide substantially increased treadwear, increased tire noise and reduced ride comfort."

    So MB itself acknowledges higher tire noise on the Sports Package for the E350. Not to mention "substantially increased treadwear".

    The looks of the Sports Package are great, but they come with a "noisy" and treadwear trade-off .
  • pearlpearl Member Posts: 336
    that seems to be pretty much the way it is with most low profile high performance tires on just about any of the LPS cars. The GS350/430 comes with a sticker on the window announcing that you can expect much less mileage from these tires, as just one example. Re noise: I drove new E350's back to back, one with sport package and one without. The difference in handling was barely noticeable, but the difference in road/tire noise was much more pronounced in the sport model.
  • df4801df4801 Member Posts: 10
    thanks for the info.

    I am trying to decide on the sports package. My dealer is really recommending it and I like the way it looks, but am concerned about a comfortable ride. Also, I dont want to have to purchase new tires every year.
    What is the treadwear life on the sports tires?
    Any other advice on the sports package. Thanks all.
  • beancounter6beancounter6 Member Posts: 7
    I have no problem with the ride quality. The car handles great too. I don't know how much less tread life to expect with the lower profile sports package tires. This is my first E350 and I only have 3,300 miles. I've heard that maintaining tire pressure is key to getting the most mileage.

    My only concern has been the higher than expected tire noise, which I only notice from the rear of the vehicle. I would suggest you test drive a E350 with Sports Package and one without to see if you notice enough of a noise difference. Be sure you get above 40 mph on the drives.

    Good luck.
  • afletcherafletcher Member Posts: 3
    I am looking to purchase an older E class Mercedes. In my price range I am considering the 300E and maybe 1994 E320. Other than larger engine in the E320 is one car noticeably better? I am also concerned about maintenance costs. This would be a third car so would not be driven in bad weather. Would be stored during the bad midwest winters. Any advice would be appreciated.

    Andy
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    I was working for MB-USA back in that era and IIRC, there were precious few differences between the 300E and the E320. FWIW, those engines, robust as they have proven themselves to be, do have a single annoying weakness. Their head gaskets don't seem to last much beyond 100,000 miles.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • garyh1garyh1 Member Posts: 394
    Also, the '94 (and I believe other years from '92-'95) have another problem - the engine wiring harness falls apart over the years, and the car has to be rewired. An expensive problem to deal with that as far as I know, MB is not taking responsibility for (it happens after the warranty period ends).

    You can read about it on NHTSA, or just Google mercedes wiring harness.
  • afletcherafletcher Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for your replies to my post. I also called a person whom I do not know personally but has worked on Mercedes at his own shop for 45 years. He said that in addition to the head gasket and wire harness problem I have to add a third concern, the AC adaptor. He said it was worse the newer the car was and all three items would have to be checked out carefully before purchasing to avoid expensive maintenance. I may have to look in another direction as I am not sure I can handle the stress of having those items hanging over my head. I can see the benefits of new car and extended warranties.

    Andy
  • microrepairmicrorepair Member Posts: 508
    I can verify the head gasket problem that Shipo mentions. I had a 96 E320 and the gasket was replaced at 116K for approx. $1300 (my dealer). I had other quotes at $1700 (different MB dealer) and $2200 (independent repair). I chose to go with my selling dealer at the $1300 level because it was the cheapest and they even threw in a loaner car for free..!! So it pays to check around.

    BUT: :surprise: you might also plan on a water pump at the same time; the bearings failed as soon as they buttoned up the engine and refilled the antifreeze. Never made it out of the repair stall and they gave me a discounted deal of $350 for the water pump replacement. Normally well over $500...

    Warning: everyone I talked to at the time said that there was no guarantee that the head gasket would not blow again in another 100K+ miles...!!

    I got another trouble free 25K before I chose to sell it before I'd have to take out a mortgage to repair the next major failure..!
  • munishmunish Member Posts: 1
    I am thinking of buying a 2002 E320 that has 29K miles on it and in good condition. What would be the cost of maintaining this vehicle for the next four years?

    Any advice would be appreciated.

    thanks
  • ms09ms09 Member Posts: 112
    Hi does any1 know when the new e class is coming, i saw the images its better than a S class,abd also does any1 knw when the new clk coupe is coming????
  • steve3226steve3226 Member Posts: 15
    You've had lots of advise here. Mine is that in any event, if you buy an out of warranty MB the condition of the car far out ways the difference in one or two model years. Be prepared for expensive MB repairs. If costs are a major factor, I'd recommend a Japanese car.
  • microrepairmicrorepair Member Posts: 508
    On used MB's....

    I've bought two used E-class cars in the last 8 years and I am convinced that the only way to buy a used MB is with Starmark coverage. Both of mine have needed repairs before 100,000 miles that would have cost me $1000 or more at least once each. Along with a couple of other repairs that would have cost $3-400 each. My first was a '96 and my current one is an '01.

    Having said that, I have friends who have older models that are running fine with few repairs into the hundreds of thousands of miles. One just turned 400,000 last month and is running great. It has some rust showing up, but mechanically is excellent. However, it is a diesel and it is a '94 model.

    Starting in '96 with the 4-eye E-class, the quality started to decline. Ergo, the need for warranty coverage beyond the factory original. The condition is less important than the fact that MB has definitely lowered the quality of the components being used on the newer models. An example: my '96 had the original catalytic converter when I sold it at 140,000 miles. My '01 had one converter replaced (it has two) at 49,000 (under warranty) and the other I just paid $900 for at 84,000 miles. I rest my case.

    And I will NOT be buying another MB. I'm going to move on to a more reliable brand when I need my next car. :cry:
  • blckislandguyblckislandguy Member Posts: 1,150
    Microrepair, and that (European) brand would be??

    I don't see anyway around this. If you want to drive a European car you are going to have maintenance/repair bills higher than someone in a Camry. Maybe the only thing worse than putting the ocasional 1K-2K into a used MB is to put it into a car that lacks the MB cache. Say, a used Volvo. On a related note, I see that used '06 E Classes are now around 45K and there are loads to choose from. Thats got to be a good buy especially when you can pick one up with 4Matic when seemingly no price premium.
  • mrmellmrmell Member Posts: 11
    Anybody have any info on the 2008 Model Year E Class?
    Changes, body style, etc. Let me know. Thanks.
  • carnaughtcarnaught Member Posts: 3,497
    Anybody have any info on the 2008 Model Year E Class?
    Changes, body style, etc. Let me know. Thanks.


    No inforamation other than it is my understanding that the major change is due for '09.
  • aveghteaveghte Member Posts: 68
    Has anybody tried to install a convertible child seat (20 lbs - 80 lbs) in the middle of the back seat? It appears that there is room but there might not be a tether in the back and the hump shape of the middle position (normal for a rear wheel drive car) might not accomodate this setup.

    Also are the rear side airbags dangerous for my son when he is sitting in the car seat in the event of a side impact accident? If so, is it possible to disable the rear side airbags on the side of the car where the child seat is installed? Did it cost much money for this action to be performed?

    Thanks for your help - my wife and I are trying to decide whether to purchase the E350 or a BMW 5-series or an Audi A6.
  • aveghteaveghte Member Posts: 68
    One car salesman told me that the rear side airbags were small enough that they would not be too dangerous for my son in his car seat.

    Another car salesman told me that the rear side airbags could not be disabled by the dealer.

    Did the rear side airbags shrink in size from 2006 to 2007 or from the previous generation E-class to the current generation E-class? I see that for the 2006 and 2007 ML350 the rear side airbag changed from optional to standard equipment.
  • microrepairmicrorepair Member Posts: 508
    "Microrepair, and that (European) brand would be?? "

    You're putting words in my mouth...!! I am not seriously considering any European makes right now, but I am still about a year away from needing a new(er) car. From what I know about current European makes, there aren't any that are above average in reliability, whereas, there are numerous Asian makes and a few American ones that are at or well above average reliability.

    But recently I've looked at Infiniti M35 (certified used), Hyundai Azera (new), Toyota Avalon (new), Chrysler 300 Touring (new), and Honda Accord's upcoming diesel. My choices will probably change in the next year, but I will still be looking for a mid-size sedan with respectable power/weight ratio (with good mpg), above average ride/handling qualities, decent trunk space, generous front legroom and headroom, some form of ESP with ABS and traction control, leather heated seats, and decent stereo.

    And reliable.. Is that too much to ask for?

    :cry::(
  • blckislandguyblckislandguy Member Posts: 1,150
    I still think that living in New England as you do, a used all wheel drive E Class would be the way to go. Seems to me that there are ton of used E Classes out there and they are all the same , even down to a very narrow range of colors (silver predominate). Because they are largely all the same, you should be able to easily comparison shop and get a good price.
  • carnaughtcarnaught Member Posts: 3,497
    ............there are ton of used E Classes out there and they are all the same , even down to a very narrow range of colors (silver predominate)...........

    Yeah, some say you can get your choice of colors in a Mercedes as long as they're silver (LOL).
  • microrepairmicrorepair Member Posts: 508
    Well, after owning two E-class sedans and seeing how the newer one is less reliable than the older one and since the older wasn't especially reliable, I've decided to avoid MB (until I hit the Lottery and can afford to sell a car when it needs it's first expensive repair!) and go for a more reliable brand. None of which are made in Germany..

    Re: AWD and living in NE.. I've lived in Mass. all my life and have thousands of miles under my belt of driving on snow and ice. I've never had a serious problem with 2 wheel drive, either front or rear. And after owning my current E with ESP, I will NOT buy another car without it. I prefer to avoid AWD/4WD systems due to (Ya got it!) reliability and extra dead weight (increased fuel consumption). More parts equals more failures. I spent most of my life working as a mechanical engineer and can't get away from the idea that simplicity breeds reliability.

    Re: color... That is almost funny... Mine isn't silver, it's the Desert Sand. I got a GREAT deal on it because it sat at my dealer's for 7-8 months and they were going to wholesale it off. But they posted it on AutoTrader as a last resort and I happened to spot it there and went in to my salesman and asked if he would honor that greatly reduced price even though 3 months earlier the best he could do for me was 8 grand more. They accepted but offered me so little for my older E that I then sold my 96 on Autotrader for 2 grand MORE than they offered me and it was a dealer from Florida who bought it and had it shipped directly over to the middle East.. He must have had some Sheiks anxious for a used MB...!! So I ended up getting a my Certified E class for about 55% of the original sticker and got a terrific deal on my old one to boot.. My net cost was about half the price of a new Infiniti M35.. [Not bad for a 27 month old E320!] Bottom line was my dealer couldn't move the car due to the color, in fact, my wife didn't like the color at all. But I am not that hung up on colors and actually, the Desert Sand is great because it really hides the normal dirt..

    I know I'll miss the great ride, but being retired I can no longer afford $800 repair bills every 8-10 months.. So on to an Asian or American brand that costs less to buy and own..

    :cry::cry::cry:
  • blckislandguyblckislandguy Member Posts: 1,150
    Nice post. I think that if you lived outside Rt 495 you might feel the need for AWD. Living outside 495, I've driven mostly AWD cars for the last 20 years. As a result I wouldn't know ESP from Adam. I do think that a non-AWD car if rationally driven would be fine. Three to six nights a year though, you wouldn't want to go back out after you got home from work. (As I recall, when I was growing up, no one when out after 6:00 PM during the week anyway because nothing was open.)

    In any case, I think that you should look at Volvo S80s. Their bling factor is low and as a result their resale is low. Moreover, there is a new edition now on the market and new versions tend to lower the resale on the old models. All in all, I think a used S80 might offer you good value with its front wheel drive, nice interior, heated seats, safety, some cache when you go to Tanglewood, etc. etc.
  • jimbresjimbres Member Posts: 2,025
    I know I'll miss the great ride, but being retired I can no longer afford $800 repair bills every 8-10 months.. So on to an Asian or American brand that costs less to buy and own..

    May I point out that $800 every 8 months works out to $100/month -- far less than the typical monthly payment on a new mid-priced car? Although I don't have an MB, I do own a 6-yo BMW, so I share your concern about repair costs. But I would happily hang onto my car forever if I could be reasonably sure that it wouldn't cost much more than a hundred per month to do so. (That's 3 bucks & change per day. I could save that much by reining in my coffee habit.)

    Over time, I've come to believe that depreciation is the great destroyer of wealth - more so than post-warranty repair costs. It's usually cheaper to fix what you own than it is to replace it - particularly if you're buying new.
  • blckislandguyblckislandguy Member Posts: 1,150
    Jimbres, let me chime in and second your thought about the ravages of depreciation. M/B ran an ad about 10 years ago showing that while a new big MB sedan may be 10K more than a big Jag, it actually costs less per mile to own because of the significantly higher resale!

    The luxury sedans all take a big hit when they are three to four years old and about to come off warranty. No one wants one. The drive-to-impress MD/JD/MBA is already into his new leased car (these folks never seem to realize why they have such low net worth compared to their high incomes) and other people fear used lux cars, maybe rightfully so.

    How about this for a strategy. Subsitute some leg work and internet research for the ease in buying something new by buying a CPO luxury car. Before it comes off CPO have it gone over very carefully. Even if you do have some heavy maintenance costs, a two to three year old S Class is now down into the mid to high 40Ks. This is a bargain by anyone's measure. To further refine this strategy, pick something out that has lots of nice features but a lower than usual resale. Like the trouble free '04 and newer Jags and the Volvo S80.
  • jimbresjimbres Member Posts: 2,025
    My approach to acquiring & operating cars has been to buy 'em new & then squeeze out the value by driving them for a long time (at least 8 & as many as 13 years). But your point about buying CPO cars is well taken. With so many fools folks leasing these days, there are lots of lightly-driven cars out there.

    The next time I'm in the market (possibly in '09 - more likely in '10), I'll check out CPO'd Jags. (Not Volvos, though. Drove an S80 a couple of years ago & found it numb & boring.)
  • blckislandguyblckislandguy Member Posts: 1,150
    Numb and boring an old style S80 is, but for microrepair and others living in New England who don't want AWD the S80 with its FWD is an alternative. Maybe the only FWD semi-lux car?
  • lex10lex10 Member Posts: 30
    DOES ANYONE KNOW IF THERE ARE ANY PLANNED CHANGES FOR THE 2008 E CLASS. I WAS LOOKING TO PURCHASE A 2007 E 350 4 MATIC AND I AM CONTEMPLATING IF I SHOULD WAIT FOR THE 2008?
  • blckislandguyblckislandguy Member Posts: 1,150
    New E Class comes out in MY 2009. Buy a MY2008 and save big buck$ at end of year.

    YMMV
  • jimm5jimm5 Member Posts: 5
    I’m told that production begins on the 08 E Class the week of June 10.

    Another 08 buyer told me that his dealer said production begins June 1. In any event, it looks like it will be VERY soon now.

    BUT, I have asked and asked and I can’t find out ANYTHING about ANY changes. Please post as soon as you hear anything!

    jimm

    ==========

    On Order: 08 E350 Sport, P2, Black/black,
    Parktronic, Voice, Bluetooth, Burl Walnut,
    Split rear seat, Rear mud flaps
  • jimm5jimm5 Member Posts: 5
    I’m trying find out what’s new on the 08 E-class, too.

    jimm

    ==========

    On Order: 08 E350 Sport, P2, Black/black,
    Parktronic, Voice, Bluetooth, Burl Walnut,
    Split rear seat, Rear mud flaps
This discussion has been closed.