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Comments
My opinion is I keep the fuel at 1/4 and higher. The electric pump submersed in the fuel is what cools it. When the fuel drops lower, the depth can't be enough to keep the pump cooled in liquid. The pump runs warmer increasing wear.
I often refill at 1/2 tank; the 1/4 is my minimum.
When traveling this causes no problems. The 1/2 tank outlasts my bladder and the need to stretch.
Around home that allows me to price shop and refill whenever I judge the price is likely to rise sharply the next day.
An auto mechanic on talk radio has always recommended keeping the fuel tank at a level 1/4 or higher to avoid pump failure.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
That's with two gallons in the bottom of a fuel tank. What's that? about an inch of fuel. That's enough to cover the pump. Glad you're comfortable with that. These are the engineers with the Accords with brake problems, rattles, (see Accord Problems discussion) and the Pilot with the rear strut that hits something and makes a noise along with the gas tank on the Pilot that has gas sloshing bumps..., I'd trust their design for minimal fuel content so someone doesn't run out to cover me for fuel pump maintenance too.
"Auto mechanics on radio have many unfounded opinions too"
Since he's owned his own shop, service and body repair, in Hyde Park, Cincinnati, for about 30 years, I guess he's probably wrong too.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I'm not trying to make fun of you, but I'm trying to make a simple fact about design clear. Fill up before you run out of gas for sure, hopefully soon after your low fuel light comes on or start thinking about filling up when you get around a quarter of a tank. They all work and won't cause you any mechanical difficulties.
Does the '05 LX come with color keyed outside mirrors and 15" tires?
TIA all.
The Sandman :-)
There are some cars, according to a 'working' auto mechanic, where the low fuel doesn't cool parts. In the part the contacts on certain cars showed heating damage and the pumps had higher resistance; they didn't work as well. I recall a coworker who had trouble starting her car; I checked and found no electric pump; fuse was blown. She always was driving on fumes.
To extend your example (absurb) we could all run our tanks dry, carry 5-gallons in the trunk, and pour it in. We'd be using the tank capacity to the volume! After all, isn't that how the engineers designed it???
I know that's not what you meant, but you misused what I meant.
That same 'auto mechanic' recommended Marvel Mystery Oil for quieting pumps in the tank -- for those BMWs that had pump noise due to wear. This was in early 90s...
I'm done on the subject.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
As most of you know, there is indeed a fuel discussion and various other discussions on the Maintenance & Repair board where some of these thoughts may be continued if you'd like.
Additionally, let me point out one other thing - there seems to be a school of thought among some in our community that it's okay to do something "wrong" (attack someone, persist in off-topic commentary, solicit, etc.) if it is in response to someone else doing it first. That is not the case. The community rules apply equally to all and if someone isn't respecting them, that doesn't give someone else the right to disrespect them as well. If you feel you must respond, respond by emailing the discussion host.
Stepping off of that particular soapbox now.
:-)
Thanks!
The Sandman :-)
I agree with the Techron use. I personally use it every 5000 miles when I change oil, always with Mobil 1 0W-20.
I disagree with the "cooling off" after high speed driving notion. This only applies to turbos which spin at very high RPMs and take time to spin down. By shutting off the engine right after driving at 3500 engine RPM, the oil supply to the turbine bearings will be cut off which will bake the remainats of the oil in the bearings spinnig at 50,000 RPM. Most current Turbo charged vehicle come with "turbo timer" installed from the factory, and the car simply will not shut off if it is not ready to be turned off.
The notion that you need to "cool off the engine" after driving is most likely an old wife's tale. Engine operates at a very narrow temperature range, this is the job of the cooling system. If the car "needs" to cool off after highway driving by idling, then there is something wrong with the cooling system. There is only about 10 degrees difference between the cooling fan start and stop points. Usually the coolant temp is lower at highway speeds than it stand still, because of the increased air flow at speed. The two little fans at the radiator are not pulling as much air, as driving at 10 mph or above. Properly functioning thermostat is what keeps the engine from "freezing" when driving at highway speeds.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Like I said in a previous post, my Dad worked for the state and his job was to test all grades of gas at all gas stations in his area. I'm sure that someone will chime in with another old wive's tale, but if you want the facts, they are in my first paragraph.
If I told someone I did some mods to their engine, but actually did nothing, some people would actually say they could detect the difference in performance. That's the power of suggestion at work.
I also have the same problem with my CRV 2000
Any one know the solution?
Thanks
1) Engine noise - If you hear engine noise, your radio is not turned up load enough. I have a 2004 civic ex and have never heard engine noise *wink*
2) Lower horsepower - I bet money that if you test drove the same three cars you menitioned and the car salesman told you that the civic had the most horsepower followed by the corolla then sentra, you would probably drive them and say you didn't like the other two for lack of power. It's in your head, I test drove them too. You can barely tell a difference. You also have to take in account the weight which you didn't.
3)I love my civic and I think it has a just fine interior. Love the armrest, thank you!
The following information is taken from the 2003 Honda Accord Owner's Manual
LAST PAGE OF THE MANUAL: ---- Titled: GASOLINE: ----" Unleaded gasoline, pump octane number of 86 or higher".
PAGE 204 OF THE MANUAL: ---- Titled: GASOLINE: ----"Your Honda is designed to operate on unleaded gasoline with a pump octane number of 86 or higher. Use of a lower octane gasoline can cause a persistent heavy metallic rapping noise in the engine that can lead to mechanical damage".
"We recommend gasoline containing detergent additives that help prevent fuel system and engine deposits. Using gasoline containing lead will damage your car's emissions controls. This contributes to air pollution".
QUESTIONS: -----What does the phrase, ----"or higher" mean? ----Does it mean that you can burn 89, 92 or 93 octane fuel in the Honda engines without a problem? ----- Does it mean, that the "on-board computer / electronics" can compensate, and learn to deal with different octane fuels? ----Based on the above information, as published in the Honda manual, it seems that Honda has a concern with "fuel system and engine deposits", as part of the over all maintenance of the engine, when it recommends the use of gasoline containing detergents. By making this statement, are they also suggesting that when the quality of the fuel might be questionable, that some service be performed periodically to remove the carbon deposits from the engine?
I just saw a new car show where people write in and describe all the modifications that they have done to their cars and how much HP they think they are generating. The show picks one and comes to their house with a portable Dyno and tests the numbers. The episode I saw happen to be a guy with a Honda, who claimed to have spent over $65,000 to buy every gadget you could think of for the engine. He was sure it would test showing it made over 200 HP. I thought the guy was going to be physically sick when they showed him he was making about 160 HP.
This was an extreme crazy case, but I like to get cars pretty much the way they come with a few exceptions. I think they run fine from the factory and gas is high enough without paying for premium. I buy aftermarket parts like starters, alternators, brake pads and rotors, because I can get them with lifetime warranties and they cost a whole lot less than factory parts. And as you know I keep cars for at least 12-15 years and I never buy an extended warranty. I do at least a years worth of research before I buy a car and I make sure I get the most reliable, safest, and cost effective car available that meets my needs at the time. That's what works for me anyway.
The Sandman :-)
She likes the looks of the 6, while I really want the Accord LX. We plan to wait on the 2006 model year, unless her current oil leak turns out to be a major repair.
The Sandman :-)
However, if you have a lower compression engine, such as are all of low perfomance Civic's including the Si, there is no benefit of the higher octane. The engine will not increase the compression ratio. At least not yet in a mass produced engine. There was work done at SAAB, before GM aquisition, on an engine with variable diplacement and comrpession.
You don't need to be a Honda engineer to unread blue prints and make sense of them. The diagrams are available to the public, if the public knows where to look.
I would have seriously considered a 2004 Civic EX 5-speed sedan when we bought our 04 Accord EX-L in July but my other half insisted on having factory XM. I'm not complaining tooooo loud because I love our Accord but the Civic would have been about $6000 less and would have gotten 5-10 MPG better.
You're in luck, as I don't think any new cars come without a tach.
You're in luck, as I don't think any new cars come without a tach.
My girlfriend's 2002 Focus Se 5 spd came without a Tach. I offered to install one for her, but se says that she can drive by ear. Focus' ZTEC engine is a very noisy one, indeed.