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Thanks for your recommendations in advance. This is a great car, but would love to add a little performance upgrade. Thanks, jason
One estimate is from a respected local body shop. In making the estimate, the guy used an amazing software program with every detail of the Passat body shown. By contrast, the other estimate is from one of the paintless-dent-removal places that follow storms and will be in town for a few months. That guy just eyeballed my car, saw which panels had damage, and gave me a much lower estimate.
One difference: the body shop charged a little ($30) extra to re-rustproof the underside of the spots where they remove dents--necessary, they say, and surely worth $30. The PDR guy said it isn't necessary.
Another difference: I don't think the PDR guy realizes what's underneath the surface in a Passat. Consider the trunk: he'll have to remove that piece (whatever it's called) that's so nicely attached under the trunk. The roof is nice and thick, the hood has a heat shield. My guess is that the body shop figured in the labor necessary to take these off and replace them, while the PDR guy didn't.
So my question: obviously, I'd rather go with the cheaper one; but obviously, I'd like my car to come out good as new. I'm afraid that removing the headliner etc. -- if done carelessly or quickly-- could lead to rattles or squeaks (the car is totally free of these so far) or other problems. Aside from the rustproofing question.
Should I be worried about this? Or should I go with the cheaper guy - will he do just as good a job for less?
Thanks.
No matter who you choose, the person who does the actual PDR will be better if they only do PDR and have done it for some time. Do not let some one PDR who is on learning curve. See their work before and after before choosing if possible.
Price is not an indicator of quality with PDR. Price may be lower simply due to less time needed by a pro.
After hailstorm and then PDR 95% of the dents were completely gone. A couple of the dents were not possible to remove due to location.
The issue is not that chipping per se voids the warranty, but that if anything that is covered by the warranty is found to have failed because of "something" aftermarket, well they may determine that the cost of the broken whatever is no longer covered by the warranty.
I have chipped and I have not had an issue -- with the 1.8T engine (in an Audi product, but they are the same engine).
Now, it is possible to have your 1.8T chipped by software alone, via the port that allows the VW computer to talk with the engine managment chip. At least two companies provide such computer port programming -- and they also allow you to have the program for free for a certain trial period of time and they can give you a procedure to make the program permanent should you like. I don't think there is any price break for simply changing the programming vs chaning the chip other than the labor and down time differences. Chipping will be between $500 and $700 and will be the single most impressive upgrade of power and torque, although I think your numbers are a bit off.
Conservatively, the 1.8T engine will gain (trypically) from 15 to 30 HP with a stage 1 (the mildest) chip, but will often gain as much as 50% in torque (although this torque peak will come at a slightly higher engine RPM than the standard max torque number.)
My 180HP 1.8T chipped to 195 HP but added significant torque 80 pound feet. The acceleration of the car was totally transformed. 0 - REDLINE rpms in 1st and 2nd gear happened so quickly that the rev limiter would kick in seemingly "instantaneously" when I would floor the car in these gears -- third gear too was quite strong.
I also changed the air filter and switched to 100% syn oil -- others I have known go further and replace the exhaust system, the fuel injectors and/or the tubo's themselves. The first biggest jump, however, comes from the chip alone.
The chip programming is the way I would go -- again there are at least two vendors that allow the software to be updated without touching the actual chip hardware at all.
Zoom zoom indeed!
Get yours quick!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&cate- gory=6020&item=2479497533&rd=1
If VW would just put the 5 or 6 speed manual in the Passat TDI I might be able to buy the last car I ever need. A Passat TDI with manual transmission and luxury package with leather would be my ideal car. All that room, great ride, reliable diesel and mileage almost as good as the high tech Toyota Prius. I love the diesel.
Any thoughts???
However, if you are so upset with them that nothing would change your opinion and this is not a VW sponsored early out -- well they are almost certainly just hoping they can roll your minus equity into the new car and somehow, perhaps by extending the term to 99 years, get your payment low enough to get your attention.
If they are hungry they'll call you.
If this is a VW deal, from VWoA -- just go elsewhere.
However, some are not so friendly, requiring the difference between the blue book value of the car and the estimated residual as a percentage of final residual to be no matter what the amount.
Here is what COULD happen: lease payments $250/mo x 10 mo remaining $2,500 maximum to be rolled over. Or current value of the car minus the book value -- so if the current value is $15,000 and the book value is $20,000 the negative equity is $5,000 and in that case that is the amount they would want to roll up.
I know, it seems crazy -- because it would be cheaper to just lease the new one and keep making the old lease payments for 10 months and save the $2,500 difference.
This can happen when the end of lease value has been insured and the car is losing value faster than was estimated -- by keeping the car to full term, the insurance closes the gap, if you attempt to bail early the insurance MAY not close the gap, so YOU do.
Be wary of the amount they roll into your new lease -- it will make getting out of your next lease early even harder. Sometimes the manufacturer offers an incentive (with Audi, for example, they had a 5 months early out program which meant that the lease was wiped out at month 31 of a 36 month lease with NO roll over requirements.
They won't let you steal from them, I would not let them steal from me, if I were you. Of course, and this is KEY, if it is a good deal in your mind and you get a better car, take it. Don't worry about the rest of us -- we're just spouting opinions here.
If VW would just put the 5 or 6 speed manual in the Passat TDI I might be able to buy the last car I ever need. A Passat TDI with manual transmission and luxury package with leather would be my ideal car. All that room, great ride, reliable diesel and mileage almost as good as the high tech Toyota Prius. I love the diesel. "
Agree, except make mine a wagon.
Its been in the shop once, and is probably going back (we've only had it for a week) - its too bad, it is a beautiful, comfortable car.
I purchased a GLX V6 sedan just a month ago and while I only have 700 miles on it to date, it is extremely quiet, and with no wind noise. Could your noise be coming from somewhere else, perhaps in or near the engine?
My two friends with Passats (both GLX) have no noise whatsoever, so I am beginning to wonder if there is a construction difference in the GLS v. the GLX.
I am hoping that we will be able to find a resolution with the dealer to either fix it or drive some other cars, because quite frankly, I am extremely disappointed at this point.
Thanks for the feedback.
Does your Passat have the side markers on the side mirrors? Does your friends' vehicles have the same, or are their side markers mounted on the fenders? I've read a couple of posts that seem to indicate that the "side markers on the mirrors" create the wind noise. I believe the shape of the mirror housing is slightly different. I can't recall reading a solution, though. If I find it, I'll post again.
I loved my 1999 despite they had to change front suspension parts 13 times in the last 4 years.
With my 2004, I have unpleasant engine vibration from 60km/h up to 150 km/h since the car is new.
It does create a 100-200hz vibration in the steering weel, the door, floor,
gas pedal, clutch pedal as well as in the shifter.
Highway traveling is very anoying.
- Tires got ballanced 5 times by 3 differents garage.
- VW dealer has replaced 3 rims.
- They then suggested me to replace the Continental tires by Michelin MXV4
at my own expense (750.00 Can$).
- I did it.
- VW dealer have then tried to unmount / remount the front sub-frame.
I have reached 13,000km and 6 months and the dealer has kind of gived up !
VW Canada does not shown much interest to solve the problem.
Recent test drive of others 2004 passat (sedan and wagon) having 5,000km and
more have demontrated signs of the same problem.
I can not live with such a problem !
Legal procedure via PAVAC or consumer protection group is slow and very time
consuming .
As a responsible father, my immediate and likely only satifaction is to
inform as much as possible other car seekers/buyers not to fall in the same
trap.
I did read some stats on this in a couple of car magazines before I bought last year - one maagazine was Car and Driver, the other...?....anyway, they used a decibel meter at highway speeds. THe Camry was a couple decibels quieter than the Accord or Passat, but they both were quiet. I can look up the details if I didn't toss those files, but if not, prospective buyers can probably find this stuff out there. (Or borrow a decibel meter before you do your test drive??...)
I've been happy with it in other ways too. Mileage, for one: it gets 34 mpg on the highway (if I take the route with the 55 mph speed limit, where I go 60ish; on the interstate, where people rarely go below 70, it's closer to 30 mpg). No oil consumption (two changes so far; it's at 12,000 miles). It handles the twisty highways around here very well, and is comfortable to be inside for long drives, which I have to do a lot.
So, no buyer's remorse here, which is rare for me.
problems at all with this car in terms of engine
quietness or vibration. Only exception is when
I first startup the car in the morning. It is a
little noisy for a couple of minutes. Highway
noise is nonexistent.
It is our first VW and it will not be our last.
Only problem has been one replaced headlight. Car
handles well and the size is perfect for carrying
most bigger items. It is alot more enjoyable to
drive than my kids Toyota 4 Runners and yet will
hold nearly anything I want to put into the hatch.
Also, the car is still very tight and the fit and
finish of this car rivals any car. So far, a fine
machine.
You will get a pretty good, slightly throaty sound when you hit the gas to engage the turbo...not anything I'd call "bad" engine noise.
BUT YOU CAN BUY A BIG DIESEL TRUCK?NEVER MIND THE TRUCK LOBBYIST WHAT'S THE COMMON SENSE REASON?
The short answer is that both VW and MB have to design their engines for the worst case in the US, which is diesel fuel with 200-300 ppm of sulfur. When tuned to deal with this crud, even when running with the cleaner fuel available in CA [ there's the ultimate irony! ], the current emissions requirements for the five states using CARB standards can't be met consistently enough for them to warrant the engines for the required time and miles.
Both promise that when low sulfur fuel is mandated nationwide [late '06], they will endeavor to meet even the tough 2007 CARB regs with diesels. MB wants to use urea injection, VW has other ideas, and even the Japanese have indicated interest. All of this depends on getting the crap we call diesel fuel in this country cleaned up - it could have happened years ago, and in fact it did happen years ago in Europe.
If this is good for a giggle, then have one courtesy of Daimler-Benz. Autoweek, the MBCA house mag [The Star], Motor Trend, Automobile, Car & Driver have all talked about progress on meeting the '07 emissions regs with diesel engines. Whatever works...
Think of cream and coffee mate -- leatherette is coffee mate. It isn't bad, but it isn't real either.
The quality of plastic leather has improved so much over the past years, that many folks would hardly miss leather or PLEATHER as it is sometimes called.
Hope that helps.
Unfortunately, the service is atrocious. I've had several small problems that took many tries to fix. An oil leak took 7 tries. I'm taking it in today for the 5th try to fix a coolant leak. The service departments of the two local dealerships are incompetent, and that sounds like it's typical for the entire brand.
It's a great car, but for me it definitely hasn't been worth the hassle. It'll be a long time before I buy another VW if ever.
How about the learching issue when coming to a stop (I've read a few posts describing it like getting hit from behind)? As of June '04 vw of A has said its a glitch they're working on but i haven't seen any posts saying they fixed the issue? is this another example of vw not owning up to a huge recall like the coils on the 1.8ts?
My wife and I previously owned a 2002 1.8T passat which had a bunch of issues beyond the coils (monsoon, dash, etc.)
However, we loved the style and feel of vws and are considering the 6cyl despite our better judgment.
Unfortunately we've had many other issues with vw.
We first owned a 2000 jetta which turned out to be a complete lemon (over 12 times in for service for same serious problems) - we forced vw of A to buy it back.
The worst experience to date however was that our 2002 passat was recently stolen off the vw of santa monica, ca dealers lot!!! We brought the car in for a routine oil change - soon after, their security guard opened their gate and just let a thief drive off with our car - nice huh. the dealer has been horrible to my wife and I - i suspect because they know they are liable (legally under mutual bailment) and they want to scare us off
Still - even after everything we've been through - my wife and i are having a hard time settling for a generic honda accord
we are still considering a new passat - but this learching issue might be the end of a rough vw relationship
any advice welcome - thanks!
Even still - i loved(you'll notice past tense here) my 2002 passat and i'm considering purchasing another one despite my best judgment ---which i'm pretty sure i've lost all sense of
read my post 7161 just after this one to see how truly sick i am...
Had I experienced 1/3 of the problems you have with the brand, I would be running - no, make that rocketing - in the opposite direction.
There are many other automotive options that reside between VW and a Honda Accord. If you are looking for something quirky like VW yet dependable, why not look at the new Legacy from Subaru?
There are good ones out there, but somehow never close to where YOU live...
I have lousy AM reception on the radio but they (dealer's service dept) tells me it is not fixable and is caused by Onstar. I am not sure that's true but since I rarely turn on the radio, it is not a problem.
As for learching when coming to a stop, I have not experienced any of that. The car is really quiet and smooth and handles beautifully.
I traded in a 2003 Subaru Forester 2.5XS Premium which was faultless. But it was noisy, rode hard, had a goofy automatic transmission shifter, and a few other little annoyances. While I had no tire troubles I did learn that if I needed to replace a tire, for whatever reason, I could not just replace one, but had to replace all four to keep the 4-wheel drive in some kind of a balance.
I was reluctant to buy a Passat because of all the negative reports about VW, and I am still a little nervous about it, but CR rated the V6 Passat GLX (along with the Accord) as the best family sized sedan, so I bit the bullet. While color should not be so important, we really like ours which is Wheat Beige.
There are plenty of alternatives.
Has anyone looked at the interior of the base model Legacy? I'd be interested in hearing the opinion of a VW owner. On the Subaru board, they're a little biased.
I agree with the above posters--there's a lot to love about Volkswagens even with all their problems.