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Check it out ... owning a TDI is not a requirement for admission, interest in the subject will get you in the door.
It's not new car smell as that doesn't bother me in the least. When we get the Passat back in 8 weeks I'm going to take it to a detail shop and see if they can do anything...or to VW...and let it sit in my garage with the windows down.
It'll be so strange to go from Sienna to Passat!
Thanks again,
Carrie
Just my opinion, maybe not politically correct.
My cousin bought a Passat wagon 4 months ago and loves it! She has just one toddler so space isn't *too* much of an issue for her. But she just loves her Passat wagon!
My Passat sedan was a blast to drive, a lot of fun and my father-in-law has loved driving it. I'm sure I'll get comfortable quickly in my Passat again, minus the freakin' smell!
Carrie
Mine reads:
<100 mph: 28 F / 28 R at half load; 30 F / 39 R Full Load
>100 mph: 30 F / 28 R at half load; 33 F / 42 R Full Load.
I've read (but haven't independently confirmed) that the Federal Gov't changed the regulations and now requires auto manufacturers to post only one tire pressure (the highest one, I guess) in the face of the Ford Explorer/Firestone fiasco.
So, what at what pressure do I keep my tires?? 32 or 33 PSI all around! But I never get to go over 100 mph, either!
That's interesting! Yes, I do have a 2004.5 with Continental Tires. The same size as yours: 195/65-15. I looked on the gas door, but my tire info is on the drivers door jam. It clearly states 35psi for front tires and 44psi for rears. 44psi sounds like the MAX psi for the tires. If the new regulations you state are correct, then VW policy needs updating.
It happens only in one situation: (a) the car has been parked and turned off for a while, (b) Okay, I start, pull out of the parking spot, come to a full stop, and put it into Drive. (c)I give it some gas and it starts moving forward. It's then that I hear the noise. I don't know whether to call it a "crunch" sort of noise or what, but it's not loud at all- very subtle and brief. Sometimes I've wondered if I drove over a small bump or something. I think once I felt some slight kick in the gas pedal, but I haven't been able to re-produce that.
So that's all. It doesn't happen any time later in the drive, even after I've been stopped at a stoplight. It doesn't even happen if I put it in park and then start driving again (without turning off the engine). Only after it's been parked and turned off for a while.
So, experts: any ideas what this is? How significant is it? What should be done?
Thanks!
B
Any clues or suggestions, anyone? (I will be taking it in for the 15K oil-lube-filter soon, so if it continues I'll ask the dealer. But the more I can learn beforehand, the better.)
Thanks!
On the other hand this is the first new car we have owned in over 30 years that is requiring so many trips to the dealer for repairs. The OnStar did not work when we picked it up, next we discovered that the AM band on the radio is lousy and cannot be fixed. ("It's a trait of the car," I was told). Next we soon found that sometimes as we slow to a stop the AT emits a bang and a large thumpy jerky feeling, and from I have read here and elswhere that too is going to be a trait that they cannot fix. And just yesterday the air conditioner fan started screaming. I am retired so it is no sweat to take the car back to the local dealer as I will be doing again, but I think about the people who work and have to take time off to get their vehicle repaired, and I can understand their anger.
Crazy as it may seem I still like the car but I have to wonder how VW can afford to keep fixing most of what they manufacture and also survive the bad publicity.
I note that the new J.D. Powers Reliability Survey of 3 year old cars (2001 models) places VW 33rd out of 37.
Now, since your description was fairly broad and therefore possibly ambiguous, I will qualify your "noise" reporting by saying you should certainly have this looked into if your concern grows or does not in anyway subside after I give you the explanation.
BTW, with some 7,200 messages here on this one town-hall alone you should know that this has been discussed numerous times on the VW and Audi town-halls and every time I see such a query, I do attempt to give the same answer -- and, may I suggest that it is pretty easy to search (using edmund's) search tool.
OK here goes:
The sound you are hearing is from the ABS, ABS+brake assist and/or ESP "hardware" that is under the hood of your car. When the car is turned on, several things happen that "initialize" the ABS electronics, hydraulics and associated hardware. The noise you hear, as I recall, does not happen until the car "moves" (and I don't think it matters if it moves forwards or backwards) it does not matter if the car is auto or manual, gas or diesel -- it must however, have ABS -- and I believe it is the Bosch ABS "pump" initialization sound that you hear, when the car moves after it is started.
In other words, you can start the car and NOT move for a minute or two and the sound doesn't happen -- but the moment you back the car out of the garage or pull it forward out of the parking space, a combination hum/crunch/moan/"raspberry"(almost a flatulent thripppppp/hmmmmmm) followed by a sound something like a tightly coiled spring coming unwound rapidly. It happens, or at least I notice it happening after the car has been parked for a time. It is NOT temperature related, although I seem to hear it more clearly in the winter. I also must note that I only hear it if I have the radio OFF when I start the car and I am alone in the car (and therefore not distracted or in conversation).
This sound -- please if you are still concerned, check it out -- just goes with the technology.
I hope this helps.
You've nailed it. It did occur to me that it's so soft it could have been going on since Day 1 without my noticing it until now. And you're right, it happens when I first move the car, whether forward or backward. And yes, the car does have ABS/ESP. So... "problem" solved. Thanks!
I had this problem on my 2004 GLX 4-motion. It was fixed 2 weeks ago. Don't let them tell you this is normal.
Cheers
Dealer's diagnosis: the problems are related and he needs to replace one mechanism. I'm under warranty so that's fine with me.
Has anyone had this problem? Does the diagnosis sound right?
Love the car and still think it's the best drive for the money. However, it's been in the shop far too many times in the < 3 years I've had it (leaky rack, broken rear washer nozzle, dead back speaker, etc.) I'm wary of hanging onto it beyond the warranty so will be weighing a comprehensive extended vs. a new car.
I appreciate your advice about the problem with the AT, and that it is fixable. When I take my car in for service in the next 30 days I will demand that they eliminate that same problem in my transmission.
I've been told that the parts on this car (once the warranty expires) are expensive. How expensive are they?
Is it as reliable as the hondas and toyotas I have owned?---no. I have 29000 miles on it. In the 27 months I have owned it, I have had to do the following:
one left daylight running light burned out
one right daylight running light burned out
the dash had some bubbling in it and was replaced
front brake rotors warped
oll leak
minor rattles in the dash and right pillar.
Nothing that has ever stranded me on the side of the road. I bring the car in for scheduled service every 5000 miles. The service has been outstanding. They really go out of their way to exceed my expectations. Far better service than any toyota or honda dealer. However this might just be the luck of the draw where you live. I am leasing the car on a 48 month 60000 mile term. I think its a great four year car. Beyond that and out of warranty, I might be a little nervous. I have this feeling that it will not age as gracefully as the better Japenese imports. Would I lease one again--absolutely, especially if there are nice fat incentives available at that time.
I should also add that all of the above work was done under warranty.
This does not sound like my 1.8T Passat. Is this Mobil 1 oil really only for trucks and SUVs - is it in some way different from the Valvoline 5W 40, making it less suitable for my comparatively litte Passat? Should I stick with the Valvoline? Or is this Truck/SUV stuff just market "positioning", and the Mobil would work fine in the Passat?
Thanks!
If I recall correctly, my owner's manual states that the oil must meet the following specs either singly or in combination: the current API spec, an ACEA spec, and 5w-40. I'm giving serious thought to using it, after I deplete my Valvoline stock. When I do, I'll check out Bob's oil site for more info and make a final decision. Probably price and availability will dictate my decision.
As far as I knew, the typical break in period was 1000 miles, and that you should keep the MPH under 55 if you can. Anyone have any more info?
p.s. for those shopping around for one now - I think you can get a GLS with auto for around 21k-22k, but basically, the lower the price, the higher the APR will be on the loan. I got mine for around 21.7k at 1.9% for 5 years with tier 1 credit.
Just my opinion, but you will decide what would be best for you.
You (and many others here, no doubt) understand oil much more than I do - I'm in way over my head - anyway, I looked in my manual (as you suggested) and it says the following must appear "singly or in combination" on the oil container -
VW 503 01 or 505 01
or
ILSAC GF3 SAE 5W40...
Now, the Valvoline bottle says it meets VW "502 or 505" (so it doesn't appear to meet 503 01 or 505 01, unless I'm misunderstanding this, which could be the case). But it is ILSAC GF3 SAE 5W40.
Meanwhile, the Mobil1 10-40 says it meets the VW 503 01 (and 502 and 505) spec. But it is ILSAC 0W-40. So, by those criteria, either oil would work equally well. Did I get that right? And is 0-40 as ok as far as VW is concerned as 5-40?
And if someone could explain this "for dummies" that would be great.
(BTW, I looked up some of the other specs you mention:
API - owner's manual mentions SH; both Valvoline Synpower 5-40 and Mobil 0-40 have SL/SJ, CF . So both are the same. I somehow assume the SL/SJ is a higher grade that includes SH, but I'm guessing.
ACEA - Both have A3/B3/B4, which seems to be what VW 505.01 requires, according to something on the Web. So this seems to make them equal.)
Again, a "synth oil for dummies" explanation for any of this would be much appreciated.
Thanks.
However, I was at the Audi factory in Ingolstadt, and their advice with regard to the "break in period" was, "for zee virst 200km, do not activate the brakes as hard as possible and do not run zee engine to its maximum RPM's -- after zat, you may drive at zee top speed."
Of course the owner's manual of the VW (which is essentially the same engine as the Audi) suggests about 600 MILEs as I recall. Apparently, the 200km break in period was more for the tires and brakes than the engine itself, or so I gathered after I grilled the Audi engineer. Initial "engine speed variability" seems to be more important than care and consideration with respect to road speed. Also, the tires are not as "sticky" until they have about "75km" on them.
Personally, I'd go with the manual's recommendations, but be aware that break-in has become a lower priority issue than it used to be.
Okay, let's see if these links will help you:
ACEA Explained: http://motul.com.au/fact_sheets/acea.html
Basically, A3 refers to superior performance in gasoline engines.
ILSAC and API: http://motul.com.au/fact_sheets/api_ilsac.html
API SL and ILSAC GF-3 are the latest approvals and indicate that anti-friction, fuel saving performance and oxide stability are enhanced.
VW Specs: A combination of requires including SAE, oil change interval (by mileage and time), ACEA levels, amongst others for gasoline and diesel engines. See: http://motul.com.au/fact_sheets/volkswagen.html
I hope this will help. Thanks to Motul Lubricants for providing this info.
Bottom line, I don't think you can really go wrong with Mobil 1 0w-40, Mobil 1 5w-40, or Valvoline Synpower 5w-40, since all meet either singly or in combination the recommendations of VW.
The other dealer in my area uses 5W-40, Castrol. (Or I can bring my own Valvoline synth 5W-40 or Mobil1 0W-40).
Recommendations or comments?
Thanks again!
(This is a great topic for me to get obsessive about, isn't it? But at least I'm finding it interesting. And I still have a couple days before needing the service, so...)
the service technician told me he would have to take the dash apart for that annoyiong vibration, rattle that seems to occur at temps under 65 degrees. I would not allow that for the obvious.I have tried many different materials . My latest is 1 inch fish tank clear tubing. I wedged it in between the dash and window. It seems to of quieted the annoying rattle for now. As someone else suggested , I took a piece of black sock and wedged it in between the door panel and door. This seemed to help. but why on earth should we have to do this in the first place???
I was waiting for you to come to the 5w-30 question! Yes, 5w-40 is not the most easily found viscosity. Certainly 5w-30 is much more available, although the Mobil 1 5w-40 is starting to be more visible.
Shortly after I bought my 2003 wagon, some people started to post that their owner's manual had a supplement in the back that read (and I've lifted this from another forum):
"From a page titled "Insert to Tips and Advice 2003 Passat" (booklet/livret 3.5), quote:
"Your engine was factory filled with an all season high quality engine oil that has a viscosity grade of SAE 5W-40. You can use this oil over all temperature ranges for normal driving. If you need to add oil between oil changes use any high quality petroleum or synthetic oil with correct specifications. If engine oil viscosity grade SAE 5W-40 is not available, you can also use SAE 5W-30."
Further down the page (under heading "General Recommendations"):
"If SAE 5W-40 or 5W-30 viscosity grade oil is not available in your area, be sure to always use a viscosity grade suitable for the climate and seasonal conditions that exist where the vehicle is being operated."
These guidelines apply to the 1.8T and 2.8 engines. The page does go on to state that the 4.0 W8 engine should only use 5W-30 for topping off or adding oil.
I don't have this supplement in my manual; maybe you do - look in the back. However, it sure sounds like the only engine that is absolutely bound to use 5w-40 for a complete oil change is the W8. Good luck!
anybody else experience this, please point to a previous post if i missed it. thanks
Thanks,
Carrie ~2003 VW Passat GLS 1.8T AT, Candy White/Beige Leather(ette?) interior
I am not a Passat driver but a friend of mine is. He is having issues with the steering in his 2002.5 Passat V6 4-Motion. He has 88,000 highway miles currently on the car. His (reliable) dealership informed him that he needs a new steering column for issues he is having.
Does this sound right? Would a car with 88,000 miles need a new steering column? Anyone else with a 2002 Passat have his issue?
Thanks!
Enjoy your new Passat! What color did you get?
Carrie ~2003 VW Passat GLS 1.8T AT, Candy White/Beige Leather interior
I have Reflex Silver on my '04 Passat. I really wanted Silverstone, but they would of had to drive the car in from out of state. so, I went for my second choice in colors with 7 miles on the odometer.
Want to trade seat coverings? ;-)