Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
My 02 GLS 1.8T has about 40,000 miles on it, very few problems. I am getting to the point where I have to buy out the lease or turn it in for something else.
From reviewing the classifieds, the lease buyout price appears to be less than what I'd pay if I were going to do a private party used car purchase.
Actually this has been the most reliable car I've ever owned. The only repairs it's needed are to replace the ball joint ends at 120K, replace the mass air sensor at 99K and two repairs to unjam the moon roof and shade, one under warranty and one a few months ago.
None of the electrical gremlins that haunt VWs and Audis have appeared in mine, with one minor exception. The light in the driver's side sun flap visor no longer goes on when the mirror cover is opened. It can't be repaired and I have chosen not to replace the entire visor assembly.
I will keep this car until doing so becomes more expensive than to replace it. Right now it provides pleasant and treliable transportation with no monthly payments. When I do replace it it will be with an AWD wagon about the same size as the Passat.
I was looking at the Jaguar X type sport wagon, but do not like the "J gate" shifter and the car received terrible side-impact crash ratings. Volvo V70s are fun to drive ony in the very high performance versions, otherwise the ride and handling feel sloppy to me. The new turbo Legacy/Outback wagonss are fun to drive, but the front seats have so little leg room that even six-footers can't stretch out. The E class and A6 cost more than I want to spend.
I guess I'll have to hope mine lasts another couple of years until the next version Passat wagon comes to market.
I'd suggest that you remove the residue and closely observe the area in the future because I don't think the leak issue is resolved. If it were, the crud would have been removed during the repair. Keep a close eye on the coolant reservoir, as well.
You don't want coolant getting into the oil or oil getting into the coolant. And you don't want to lose too much coolant (you'll get that nasty chime alarm and a note on the MFA on the instrument cluster).
Check out BMW-X3, there are good lease deals on them. As per last week's news paper, "well equipped" x3 can be leased for about 5k due at inception and $139 a month. Though heard that x3 drives choppy.
The misery starts when I look back at the dash where I see the "check engine" light is illuminated for the nth time in less then three years. I'll have to drop car at the dealer for yet another non scheduled repair...
Needless to say, this is my last VW.
Probably something like a 205 x 60 x 15 in a UHP all season flavor. Possibly a 215 would be OK, the folks at the tirerack.com or tires.com or some other e-tailer of tires can help you with the right size. Plus Zero will improve just about everything you like about your car.
Year round drivability and good wear. However, if you have no weather below 40 degrees F, you could go UHP Summer tires and enjoy great performance, but probably somewhat shorter lifespan.
The check engine light generally comes on regularly and frequently due to "driver" error. What error is that you say?
Believe it or else, the main trigger is the gas cap.
My wife's TT check engine light used to come on all the time -- one day I watched her fill up. Pump clicks off, she returns the hose and puts the gas cap on turning to "resistance."
I put the cap on and when I reach resistance I turn until I hear a click click click -- long story short: tech at Audi resets engine light and says "please make the gas cap click at least twice every time you fill up." From then on, no more check engine light.
Tech claimed that oversight (on the salesperson's part when he/she delivered the car to you) was the #1 cause of the check engine light.
Drive it like you live.
Do you have the 15" alloy wheels or the steel wheels with hub caps? If you have the steel wheels with hub caps you may have problems with the plus zero switch to a 205/60/15 tire. The extra width of the tire on that wheel can pop the hub cap off during cornering. Just a thought.
So far I have about 300 miles on the new Goodyear Assurance TripleTred tires and they are nice. I never thought the OEM Continentals had great wet weather traction, it was just OK. We had rain here today and the Goodyears were very good.
BTW, Tire Rack shows the OE ContiTouring Contact CH95 as having a load rating of 91H. I'm up on this stuff right now 'cause I'm in the market for replacement tires, too. The Conti is still in the running, but I'm also looking at the Bridestone Turanza LS-H. Pretty wide spread in prices between the two, though.
Enjoy the new tires, I've read a few reviews that sound like it's a very good tire.
By the way, it snowing madly here in St. Louis today so it is a good test of the new tires. What a huge difference. Of course, I was driving on the original tires with 72,000 miles and almost no siping left. Driving on the new Goodyear Assurance TripleTreds today was a great deal more confidence inspiring than the tires I took off last week.
PS – If you see a full loaded white 2001 Passat sitting on a Toyota lot be warned.
What specifically did you have wrong with it. Was it many small annoyances, or show stoppers, such as engine/tranny.
Was it a new or used purchase?
Just curious.
Thanks.
Anyone know any easy way to get the upside-down CD out of the CD player?
Thanks.
Anyway, all is well...
I did put a CD upside down in my player about a year ago and never could get it out. But, I could still use it. Recently sold the car, and along with it went one of my favorite Cheap Trick CDs ...
On line prices are, all over the board, but generally the saving (over retail store prices) is considerable $$$. To each his/her own in this regard. THE ONLY issue I have ever had with Falken's is they don't wear quite as long as some "name brand" tires. The savings, however, more than compensates, IMHO.
I have taken the plunge to Plus 1 size my tires, but I always have Plus 0'd in the past with the only consequence being improved performance.
Where did you get the Falkins on-line? I don't think Tire Rack.com carries them.
On the small stuff: the seat jumping out of its tracks, passenger door handle peel like a snake, and the trunk light that kept burning out. The large stuff: 3 water pumps (1 under warrant), one A/C compressor, 3 throttle control units (1 under warrant), 3 air control modules (1 under warrant), right tie-rod replacement, leak in the coolant system and more but I do not have my records (I burned the maintenance records in my fireplace, big fire).
On depreciation, I don’t want to talk about it, it still hurts. On Toyota, I got an AWD V6 nonlimited Highlander for 27k. I am very pleased with the highlander.
Although somewhat sardonic, my wife and I have had 30+ German cars (from Audi, BMW and VW) since 1977. When we even came close to 49,000 miles we bailed, or in one instance (a 1988 Audi 80 quattro sport) purchased an aftermarket 100,000 mile warranty (thank goodnes, since the warranty paid for itself about 2.5 times over).
Live and learn, indeed.
Great cars are made by Germans and Europeans (generally). Reliable cars from that continent are just now starting to appear -- give them another 6 to 10 years and they will be where some Asian cars are TODAY.
And, this is from an Audi-file!
Also the rep said, they will be using synthetic oil for V6. This mean more expensive oil change. I don't get it!!!! My passat is fine with petro oil. Why do they force me to use synthetic?
I am a broken record in this regard and both my wife and I are devoted German car fans and owners.
Frankly, these cars are breathtakingly expensive to repair without warranty -- and, despite some claims to the contrary, with experience we (my wife and I) maintain that oil changes basically destroy a $100 bill.
Great driving machines, confidence inspiring, safe and fun -- but they do require lots of cash from time to time to "keep that German-ness" intact.
$45 for synth change at my dealer. About the same as at my Honda dealer.
I have not had 30+ German cars like Mark, only 4. I have had 3 VW's and 1 Mercedes. I will always argue the opposite on Mark about being rich to keep a VW after the warranty runs out. We have had this friendly discussion before. I believe that it is always going to be cheaper to repair than make continuous car payments. If you are buying new BMW's and Audi's then you are talking monthly payments of $500 plus unless you are putting big dollars down. That is $6,000 a year in payments. Do you really think that I will average $6,000 every year in repair costs on my 2000 Passat? I have 72,000 miles on my Passat and have spent $1,450 on repairs, which includes tires and brakes and $369 on maintenance. I will continue to put the $500 that I would be spending monthly on a car payment into the bank to cover any future repairs. Any one want to wager that the account will continue to grow and not be depleted by repairs? I will agree that the European vehicles are more expensive to repair than their Asian and American counterparts, on average. However, you don't have to be a wealthy person to own one past the warranty.
I pay 5 (Bosch oil filter) + ~20$ (Mobil 1 0W40 at Walmart or Autozone) + 25$ for work.
It is in MA which is not known as a cheap place.
Krzys