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Sears handles Goodyear tires and may be able to order them for you. A few weeks ago when I wanted
Bridgestone Blizzak MZ-01's for my SE, Sears beat
everyone's price on them. I'll guess they can can
get better prices because of volume ordering.
I still DO NOT understand why Nissan has chosen a
tire size for the SE's that allows the consumer so
little and limited buying choice. Sounds like
someone "made a deal."
Does anyone know if the control buttons on the steering wheel are suppose to be lighted at night? The controls for the door locks and windows are lighted, so I would think the ones on the steering wheel would light. I couldn't find it in the owner's manual. I have a new 2002 MAXIMA GXE and just figured they would light up. Before I go to the dealer and complain, I wanted to make sure they are suppose to work.
Drop me a note if you have some or know where to look. Dealers don't seem to have P/N yet.
pwitzleb@rochester.rr.com
Anyway, I have 26K right now on my 00, and I think I probably have about 10K or so to go.....will probably replace before next winter.
Fortunately, it rarely snows in DC (at least the last few years) so I don't need Blizzaks.
Invoice fully loaded without Nav system should be 26739.
Don't buy the nav system
FWIW, I thought the 6-speed with the 3.5 liter engine was a noticable but not extraordinary improvement over the 2001 model. However, some of that improvement only got the car back up to the performance of my 1995. It shouldn't be, but my 190hp 1995 model definitely feels more responsive and quicker to me than the 222hp 2000/2001 models. I'm guessing the 2002 is quicker than my 1995, but not by a large margin.
It remains interesting to me that since 1995 the Maxima has grown from 3.0 to 3.5 liters and a claimed output of 190hp to 255hp without that much of a "seat of the pants" improvement, IMO. On the other hand the BMW 530i at 3.0 liters and 225 hp is a very noticable improvement over the previous 528i (2.8 liters and 192 hp). This reinforces my belief that TEST DRIVING is much more important than reading horsepower quoting marketing ads.
P.S. Even though they are not as plentiful, my preferred dealer (VOB) had offered me the same deal (relative to invoice) on a 6-speed as they were giving on automatics. I doubt that at this point you would need to pay a "premium" for a 6-speed, especially since they are already in Maxima rebate mode.
By the way, how does the acceleration of the Honda S2000 compare to your Max? I remember reading an article in R&T, which said that they had to drop the clutch at something like 8000rpm to get the approx. 6 sec(?) 0-60 times, whereas a "normal" takeoff was more like 10-11 sec 0-60. (just curious since I've never driven an S2000, I bet its fun although the Max would be preferable as a daily driven all-purpose car).
Has anyone seen a published 0-60 mph or 0-100 kph time for new Maxima 3.5 w/6-speed manual? Will be interesting to see a published time. Motor Trend's automatic I-35 did it in 7.0 seconds.
You do realize that the results achieved by most magazines for auto tranny cars are done by reving the engine to high rpms while keeping a foot on the brake. Once the rpms are high the brake is released and the car takes off. This is just as damaging, if not more so, then releasing the clutch at high rpms with a manual.
I haven't posted in a while on this topic, but if you really want to save a bundle, go up to Canada to get your Max. And I'm not talking pocket change. For example, a loaded GLE sells for about $22,500. That's $4000 under US dealer invoice. There are a number of posts here and in the Pathfinder forum about those of us who have done it (over 60 now). Not difficult at all. Toronto and Vancouver have the best prices and selection.
I promise I'll do another complete write-up soon. See post #29 above for some info I posted long ago. Just drop me an email for all the details. I'm glad to help out.
-Jon
jonlofquist@aol.com
steve
Let me start by stating for the record, I am not the drag racing type. I like a car with strong performace capabilities, but I'm not likely to "drop a clutch" at 6,000 rpm "launch" it. Had I done that with my 1995 Maxima SE, I'd probably be replacing it instead of enjoying an S2000 as a third car.
That said, the S2000 is reasonably quick off the line when pushed with "normal" techniques. The real difference is that it continues up to it's 9000 rpm redline very strongly. From 0 to 30, I'd have to push the S2000 a bit to match the Maxima. From 30 to 80+, it's quite a bit stronger.
In the 0-60 vs. 1/4 mile vs. 50-70, etc. dabate, I'd cast my vote for Road and Track's 0-100 mph times as coming the closest to matching my "seat of the pants" evaluation. Not that I ever test drove cars to those speeds. But, as others have pointed out, there are some funny things that can be done to improve or distort 0-60 times. In some cases, only one shift is necessary, in others, two are required. And, as canadianlc notes, some cars have shot much of their wad by 60-70 and others are still coming on strong. Case in point: Road and Track tested the S2000 at 5.5 seconds 0-60 vs. 6.7 seconds for the 1995 Maxima SE 5-speed. That's a fairly significant difference, but still only 1.2 seconds. The 0-100 mph ratings were 14.2 and 20.6 respectively. By my math, that means the S2000 goes from 60 to 100 in 8.7 seconds, but the Maxima takes 13.9 (i.e. 5.2 seconds / 60% longer). That is a huge difference and probably is what makes the S2000 feel a lot more powerful to me at near highway speeds. A lot of cars that appear competitive based upon 0-60 times are really not, IMO. The S2000 is actually a lot closer to an M3 in 0-100 than it is to a Maxima.
To read this post, you'd never know that I got the S2000 based upon it's handling and sun-tanning capabilities!!
Any replies to my question about Nitto tires, any experience with them. They have the 17" size.
thanks,gg
I have a 2001 Max with 10,500 miles on it, and had a mysterious popping noise coming out of the left front strut, when entering driveways, and the car would sway. Just got back from the dealer, and had the strut, rod assembly, and bearings replaced, all under warranty, no sweat. My question is...do struts have to be broken in? The same popping noise is gone, but a new gassy pffft...noise is heard now. Probably nothing but just wondering.
On another note, are you sure 20.6 seconds for 0-100 is correct? I just looked at the Motor Trend test of the 2000 Max SE 5-speed, and they have the quarter mile in 15.1 sec at 94.4 mph, and give 13.8 sec for the 0-90 time (they don't give a 0-100 time). Based on the above, I would guess the Max should hit 100 by 17 seconds e.t.
By the way, I feel the same as you do about driving and the car's performance capabilities. I never drop the clutch at high revs. Even if I want a fast start, most times I just quickly ease it out while increasing throttle, and then only starting at about 1500-2000 rpms. I think that the magazine road testers are much more abusive.
Their result was 14.9 sec 0-90, and 19.5 sec 0-100. It seems odd that it would take all of 4.6 seconds for that last 10mph. That means it took 25% of the time for the last 10 mph. My Maxima "seat-of-the-pants" feels faster than that, but then I don't do it every day.
By the way, CDs quarter mile was 15.6 seconds at 91 mph, so it took .7 seconds for that last 1mph. At that rate, assuming that it takes 0.7 seconds for each additional 1mph (actually, the time should increase), the additional 9mph would take 6.3 sec for a 0-100 of 21.9 seconds. It was a preproduction model, and maybe they were shifting into 4th too soon?
I wouldn't advise cross comparing Motortrend and Road and Track performance test results. Motortrend seems to consistently quote faster times and higher skidpad ratings. Example - On the S2000, Road & Track's numbers are 0-60 in 5.5 seconds, 1/4 mile in 14.1 and 0.90g skidpad. Motortrends are 5.2 seconds, 13.8 seconds and 0.96 g's respectively. I suspect that Road and Track is a little more reasonable in their testing procedures.
Robertr:
I made a mistake. The times I quoted above were from Car and Driver's (not Road and Track's) June 1994 issue with the 1995 Nissan Maxima SE on the cover. The full test results are:
0-30 2.4 seconds
0-40 3.6 " (shift to second at 38 mph)
0-50 5.0 "
0-60 6.7 "
0-70 9.0 " (shift to third at 67 mph)
0-80 11.5 "
0-90 14.9 "
0-100 20.6 " (shift to fourth at 98 mph)
0-110 26.2 "
0-120 39.0 " (shift to fifth at 131 mph)
1/4 mile - 15.3 sec @ 91 mph
Top speed - 135 mph
Lateral accel. - 0.78g
I think Car and Driver's numbers are more consistent with Road and Track's than Motortrends, but I still wouldn't compare them directly.
I'd go for it. Just make sure you don't get catch in the snow with them because I don't think that they are rated as All-Season tires (I could be wrong though). Hi performance tires are great in the dry and rain, but are terrible in snow and ice.
You might even want to consider buying a 17" or 18" set of rims and fitting them with the Nittos. Then swapping them out for your original rims every winter (if you live in a cold climate).
Sterling Mist with black leather interior
-Sun Roof
- Sun Roof Wind Deflector
- Side air bags
- Traction Control
- Merridian
- Floor Mats
- Splash Guards
$540 destination
$500 marketing charge
$27583 ($400 over invoice).
Thinking of moving before 0.9 financing closes. The sense from the dealer is can't guaranty financing rate will be there in Feb -- they may emphasise Sentra or some other car.
A good deal?
Better deals to come as 2003 revised Max approaches?
Thx. -- Joe
On a straight road, if you redline each gear from the stop, tires spin at the end of 1st gear. sales person told me because there are so much torque on the car, that's why. I am not sure if it's true. But, felt the backend slipped a bit because of the tire spin. But then again, I don't normally redline every gear when i drive. So, may not be big deal.
mostly, there is no more lag or hesitation when you step on the gas as in the pre-2001 models.
the transmission was very smooth and easy to shift, I would definitly consider buying the car if i was in the market for a fun sedan that's got some power!
btw, on a endnote, I test drove the car pretty hard, and the sales person was 'demonstrating' the car for me, so he drove it quite hard also. I am curious if most new cars are treated in this way by majority of the dealers. In which case, i would make sure the car I want comes directly off the truck, and not one that's been on the lot and it's been 'practiced' by the sales staff.
At these prices the difference between 0.9% and 6% ends up being about $2000.
Sounds like they might have $100 compression in that retail price since we are still in negotiation.
Thx.
2003 Max w/ a 4 litre 300 hp v8 not to mention rwd?
Just curious.....!
berbel
That's probably not a bad deal, but look back a week in the posts here. That exact same GLE with all those options will sell in Toronto for $22,500! That's $5000 less. No, you won't get the 0.9%, but you'll still save a bundle. Consider it. Over 60 of us have gone to Canada last time I counted. Email me if you need the info. Always glad to help out.
-Jon
Can i get a Maxima GLE delivered from Canada
to the US. I'm not sure about traveling all the way up from DC to Canada. Could you drive one from Canada to DC for me I'll pay the gas.
And, will Canadian maximas meet the same specs and requirements as US ones (i.e. emissiona, safety, etc..)