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Comments
From what I've heard, that is just about what you can expect Nissan to last for ....@ 200K..and then you look at $$ to make it run longer. Hondas seem to go deeper into the 200k territory.
I know it is not even close to as sporty or fun to drive as a Max, but even something like a mid 90s Taurus is going to be a better value and a safer car around that price point. Using the Edmunds used car guide, it also seems like $3500 is on the high side..mileage adjustment should be -$1100.
The only complaint I have is that the quality of the radio stinks. I'm sure I'm not a big music buff like most posters here, but even I can tell the difference of the poor sound quality. I've listened to $10 hand-held radios that have better sound quality.
I wish I could remove the radio from my old 1986 Camaro, which is far superior than the one in the Maxima's. Ironically, it's one of the few parts of the car that I never had a problem with.
It's a shame that they would install such a cheesy system on such a nice car. Anyone else have any comments on the radio?
http://www.edmunds.com/used/1991/nissan/maxima/4drsesedan/prices.html
Hit "Customized Appraisal" then punch in the options that the max has. It will take an excessive mileage hit of $1100 (so deduct that from the $3500)
I personally wouldn't pay more than $2500. Also, the one thing I would absolutely, positively check is the last time the previous owner had the timing belt changed. Nissan required a 60,000 mile timing belt change for that engine...and the price can range from $350 to $650 to do that work. If that timing belt is old and breaks while your son is driving it (particularly highway speeds), then you'll spend >$1000 to get the engine rebuilt. So that's a definate must!
If the car needs a timing belt soon, then I would deduct that from the price too. Goodluck!
Drex
PS: Better yet, you may want to have a mechanic look it over before you buy (check the transmission, brakes, engine, etc, etc, etc)...if you're buying from a stranger.
I rode in a 98 with the Bose and it sounded great, very natural. The new Bose is not Bi-amped like the old ones and it clips when you turn it up. The AM reception sucks too..the antenna thing again. Otherwise a typical Max...Great Car, fast and fun.
My takes....Reaction???
Duke
SUPER BLACK SE
6-SPEED
Helical Limited Slip Differential
Meridian Package
CHARCOAL(BLACK) LEATHER PACKAGE
BOSE STEREO
FLOOR MATS,
SIDE AIRBAGS WITH HEAD CURTAINS,
AND A POWER SUNROOF
They offered a price of $27,458 (destination charge included in price)
What do you think of this offer??
Sean
Just a piece of advice:
I see people here and at Fresh alloy quoting prices paid for Maximas that seem kinda high to me. Heres what i paid for my GLE (base GLE with only the spoiler, floor mats, and mud guards) in the DC area.
$25,500 - $1000 rebate = $24,500 before TTL
With TTL = $25,865 (out the door)!! Basically i paid 200 below invoice before TTL. The dealer was more than willing to give me a cut of the holdback without much haggling! So make sure you bargain hard. Tell them Maxima sales are down 25%.
Before i go for now, thanks again for all the veterans here for all their answers and inputs.
As for price, I think it best to do your homework and get the invoice price from edmunds. I paid $300 over invoice (invoice included a $460 marketing fee) and I could have gotten straight invoice price from another, less desirable dealer. So my opinion is within $300 of invoice is a good price (NOT INCLUDING the rebate, the $1000 rebate should get you well below invoice, but I took the .9% financing instead of the rebate). If you can negotiate better, then great, but always use invoice as your baseline to avoid the confusion that salesmen use to their advantage.
Has anyone had success in finding out what the problem is/having it fixed?
>> What do you think of this offer??
Looks pretty good when compared to dealer invoice. But instead of that, how does $23,000 sound? That's what it would sell for in Canada at the best dealers. Go up there and get one. I know I post on this alot, but if you are anywhere close to Toronto or Vancouver you can get that price. Real easy to do - over 60 of us have done it. As usual I'm glad to help out anyone. Just write.
-Jon
can you email me with the details of buying in canada? one of my friends would love to buy one up in toronto..
thanks, kyle
kyleknicks@aol.com
Did you try to claim it as a warranty problem? You might be in for a radio fix, cost free.
otoluva, there are multiple influences on why most cars are so much less in Canada right now, but the main reason is the exchange rate. The US dollar just keeps getting stronger. The Canadian dollar is now only worth 63 cents US. Years and years ago they were about the same and even just as recently as '98 it was 71 cents. The Canadians are not making any more money, so no one can just raise prices. But our US money goes a lot further. Not just on cars, but everything. Canada is a great vacation bargin right now. And you'll meet lots of friendly people.
rwclifton, I'll add your name in here too. I know of at least 7 or 8 people from the DC area who've gone to Toronto. A quick flight up; short drive back. Loaded GLE for $3900 under US dealer invoice (about $22,700).
-Jon
I paid $500 below invoice and got the $1000 rebate
in S.Cal. I got the sunroof, splash guards. floor mats and auto.
The 1000 rebate is gone - but there's still a $500 rebate. If you get a Maxima from IN STOCK(i.e. they have it in the lot and don't have to get it from a different dealer), they should be willing to go upto $600 below invoice. Don't tell them that you want a cut of the holdback - simply say that you will only pay $600 below invoice. Don't forget to include the rebate, destination price, and the advertising fee.
Good luck!
I am interested in buying a car in Canada also. Could you please send me the details too?
J5574@AOL.COM
Thanks,
John
Thanks
-Witt
Be glad to help out. I've customized the info I've written for provinces since each has slightly differing sales tax situations. Write me and let me know where you live or at least where you might go in Canada. Toronto and Vancouver are the best for prices and selection. I can probably also give a good contact or two to try.
-Jon
jonlofquist@aol.com
Acceleration is a product of twisting force (torque). If you want to tie it with some energy - it is a product of potential energy of exploding gasoline/air mix.
In an ideal world (no air, perfect traction, constant output of power by engine), it would take the same time to accelerate from 0-30 as from 60-90
The Maxima was on my short list when I was car shopping last fall and I still enjoy following it. Please forgive my intrusion.
There are obviously no guarantee that Nissan will admit to this problem but if the consumer yells loud enough someone is bound to hear!! There is strength in numbers so if you are disgusted with an expensive car built by a manufacturer that makes claims about quality and reliability visit the site and fill out the form.
He mentioned the reason they get stuck is that real audio CD's you buy from the store is thin, as opposed to CD's(CD-R's) that you burn copies on which are thick - thus the reason they jam the cd player. I checked the thickness of both at home, and to me they looked both the same. He recommended that if burning CD's, look for blank CD's with the "audio CD" label on the cover, not "recordable CD's"
Can someone tell me if he's right or not - and what the difference is between "audio" and "recordable" CD's. Thanks.
Would be interesting to see the turning circles for the non-Sport Maximas/I-35s that use smaller tires.
Question is can i load all six of the slots of teh in-dash cd player with audio/recordable CD-R's and not get jammed. Have others done this w/out problems.
Look here for a more thorough explanation:
http://www.cdrfaq.org/faq07.html#S7-17
I am glad to try and help - I followed the missing shield discussion and noted the following part numbers:
NI17290-2Y000 PROTECTOR-FILLE
NI01553-09321 CLIP (need four)
I haven't ordered these yet, so I am not absolutely sure if the numbers are correct. It is very likely they are correct, though, as they came from different sources.
I will have to remember to order the shield before my next visit to the dealer - I always forget!
I wouldn't put the gas cap in its holder while refueling - the holder is always full of sand/dirt. I always put the cap on top of the trunk.
Hope this helps.
Thanks for the help. I will get the dealer to order the parts and get them installed.
As I recall from my 1995 Maxima SE 5-speed, the gas milage didn't improve to its full potential until after the first oil change - which I did at about 2,000 miles. My early highway milage was in the low to mid 20's, and ultimately improved to 26-28 depending upon speed and temperature. January isn't the best month to test fuel efficiency, either.
I have a 3 month old S2000 that, at 1,700 miles, is starting to feel noticably stronger in acceleration. Perhaps the newer engines just take a bit longer to achieve their full potential.
Couple of suggestions: check the level and condition of your oil frequently. I have a friend who just bought an E320 and he burned through two quarts in the first 2,000 miles. Also, even though the owner's manual says its OK after 1,000 miles, I wouldn't use cruise control for extended trips until after 2,000. Last, change your oil at 2,000 miles. My guess is that you will see an improvement in the next month or so.
However, I do find it a little difficult to believe that the 3.5 liter 255-hp engine is rated about the same as my 1995 3.0 liter 190 hp engine on a 200+ lb lighter car. I have averaged 24.1 mpg over 120,000 miles; I suspect you will average 1-2 mpg less.