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Comments
You really need to consider talking with the dealer
who is trying to sell you the car and ask them to
inspect it re the noise you heard and have not heard since. If they find a problem, you will insist that they repair it or you will not further
consider buying it. You might also consider taking
the car to someone else (other than the dealer) and
have an independent inspection then go back to the
dealer and tell them the results of the other
inspection. (the independent inspection will
probably cost you)
Secondly, most states require that the seller
state whether or not their car has ever been in-
voled in an accident and if so, to provide the
specifics of such accident to the purchasing
dealer. Ask your seller (dealer) if they have that
questionnaire on file and if necessary tell them
why you are asking, i.e., you think it might have
been involved in an accident. If they hedge, I
think I would tell them you're not interested in
the car and look at something else at another
dealer. (I wouldn't trust them any further)
Good luck
berbel
it out with a " Reputable " dealer. Also, take it to a body shop and ask
their opinion as to whether the vehicle was in an accident.
I think you should look around some more , unless someone can accurately
diagnose the problem....not a lot of " What If's ". imho.
Anyone else with this problem? Why would you reprogram the window down feature, this sounds like total BS from my less than stellar Service department?
Who can I call at Nissan headquarters to discuss this with?
OTHERWISE, great car, no issues except this silly window thing. I used my friends Gtech Pro timer and timed myself doing 0-60 times at 6.6 seconds. That Gtech pro is a neat gizmo; an accelerometer that plugs in to lighter and gives you 0-60, 60-0, 1/4 mile and HP figures
thanks, gg
project?
My 02 SE's windows go down all the way on the first try (after 3 seconds of course). But they sure as heck never stop halfway down.
Aren't modern automobiles just great?
Is there manufacture recall for 02 SE 6 speed front suspension? When you noticed? I own a 02 SE 6 speed for 2 months now but I don't know any recall. Is anyone out there know anything about this recall? Thanks
ON CERTAIN PASSENGER VEHICLES, THE PIN AT THE END OF THE FRONT SUSPENSION TRANSVERSE LINK (LOWER CONTROL ARM) COULD BREAK WHERE IT IS MOUNTED TO THE FRAME.
Consequence Summary:
THIS CAN CAUSE A KNOCKING SOUND AND ABNORMAL STEERING. THIS COULD RESULT IN DIFFICULTY CONTROLLING THE VEHICLE AND INCREASING THE RISK OF A CRASH.
Corrective Summary:
DEALERS WILL REPLACE THE TRANSVERSE LINKS ON THE LEFT AND RIGHT SIDES WITH NEW ONES. OWNER NOTIFICATION IS EXPECTED TO BEGIN DURING JUNE 2002. OWNERS WHO TAKE THEIR VEHICLES TO AN AUTHORIZED DEALER ON AN AGREED UPON SERVICE DATE AND DO NOT RECEIVE THE FREE REMEDY WITHIN A REASONABLE TIME SHOULD CONTACT NISSAN AT 1-800-647-7261 OR INFINITI AT 1-800-662-6200.
A co-worker bought a BMW and everytime he takes it to the dealer they press him to come up with a problem with the car, no matter how minor, just so they can fix it. Not exactly Nissan service.
1. It will respond to 2 pushes of the key fob (lights blink twice to confirm & doors all unlock), but if I hold the button on the 2nd push, the windows only go down about 1/3 of the way and stop. To get them to go down the rest of the way I have to push 2 more times and hold.
or
2. It will only respond to the 1st push of the button (driver's door unlocks, lights flash once), doesn not respond to the 2nd push of the button, then I have to push the button 2 more times to unlock the rest of the doors and hold the button on the 4th push. Then the windows will go all the way down.
I've found that the car will only "misperform" if it's been sitting for a couple of hours. If I try it right after I have driven it, or if I try it again after initially unlocking/having the windows go down, it works perfect everytime thereafter.
At least now I think I know how I can get it to "misperform" when I take in for service the next time, so the dealer doesn't think I'm crazy.
If anyone has successfully been able to get this problem diagnosed and corrected, I would sure like to here what the fix was.
Thanks
My fob has normal range, nothing extraordinary, but as we all know it's style, not range that's important.
Well, at least we're talking fob problems instead of transmissions.
gg
Question....how easy to replace factory radio in Maxima....is it a double din or a proprietary radio? I want to have a car with an mini-input to hook up my mp3 jukebox......
thanks.
In a different vein, I wonder if somebody could comment on what a mechanic told me today when I took my car in for an oil change and tire rotation. This guy told me to be sure and retorque my lug nuts after 25 miles of driving. This is only the 2nd time I've had a car with alloys, but I've had rotations done a number of times on my last two cars, and no one ever mentioned such a thing. Sorry if this is a pretty elementary question, but I'd just never heard about this before. I mean, don't they tighten those nuts with some sort of really powerful air wrench?
http://www.tirerack.com/installer/package_install.html
Also, those air wrenches are bad news because over-torquing can cause a few problems as well (warped rotors, etc). Investing in a good torque wrench (< $40) might be a good idea.
Oil / filter change
27 point safety inspection
Replace air filter
Inspect brakes, exhaust system, steering gear componants, CV boots and suspension parts.
Set engine timing.
Adjust fan belts.
Set cooling system.
Rotate tires as required.
Check shocks & struts.
Service battery.
Clean and adjust brakes.
The price that they want for this is $275 plus tax. Some of that stuff seems un-neccessary unless there are some kind of symptoms. My car has been flawless. Not even a squeak or rattle for the most part. There is a "Service level 2" which is a 7500 mile / 6 month service which consists of;
Oil / filter
Lube chasis & hinges
27 point safety inspection
Top off all fluids
Rotate tires as needed
Inspect brakes, exhaust system, steering gear componants, CV boots and suspension parts.
Set engine timing.
Adjust fan belts.
Clean & adjust brakes.
This service = $160. The only thing that I see that I should get and is not included at the 7500 mile service is the air filter. Niether of these "service levels" includes the in cabin filter replacement which I think goes for around $100 more or less.
I can get the basic stuff done at my local Midas, (oil/filter, rotate, lube, air filter and basic inspection probably for quite a bit less $$ but I wouldnt want them touching the engine. My gas mileage is not bad and car performs fine so the engine timing must be alright so it doesn't need to be checked. What do you think - should I spend the extra $$ for dealer service and be (logistically) inconvinienced or is the (tried and true) Midas place alright? Just looking for opinions. Thanks all.
BTW, falcon, I'm not sure if it is a good idea to leave the key in the ignition overnight even if you live in safe area and no one will steal your car. You could inadvertently drain your battery by leaving accessories on. Doesn't leaving the key in the ignition overrides the auto-off feature for the headlights?
I put roughly 16k-20k mostly highway miles a year on my 1995 and have gone to skipping the 7.5k mile service intervals. I still change the oil every 4k miles. If I were you, I might be tempted to go with whatever the "standard" 15k mile service entails, but then consider skipping the 7.5k mile intervals, especially if you are putting 15k+ miles per year of relatively easy driving on the car.
Adjust engine cooling?????
Set timing, controlled by the ECM, no adjustments necessary
Adjust fan belts, no such thing as the fans are electric.
Clean and adjust brakes, go to the wand wash and hose them down to clean them. Parking brake is the only brake that can be adjusted. Does your parking brake hold on a grade? If so it doesn't need to be adjusted.
Service the battery--they clean the terminals (if necessary) and add distilled water (if necessary).
Does you car stop well, are all the lights working? You've just performed your own safety check. The only thing that is necessary is the oil change and maybe the rotation. The air filter (I assume engine) is due to be changed at 30k mi, but it doesn't hurt to pull it out and take a look at it. Max you need to spend is $50 IMHO. Dealers will do everything in their power to make you spend more $$$$$.
Dealer service - i truly believe that maxima's have superior build quality and all it requires are oil changes, tire rotated every 7500 miles, transmission oil and coolant changed every 30k or so miles (could be more - have to check manual - but i feel better knowing the fluids are clean - i drive 15k miles a yr) i just dont believe that the prices the dealers ask you to pay for their services are worth it. do they even do these services when you bring in your car when it's under 60k miles.. such as the "set engine timing" or the "inspect joints"?? i doubt it.
every 10k miles, go buy yourself a new ac/delco air filter for $8 and pop it in. beats paying the over inflated prices these dealers charge you. 2k maxima gle running as new. -kyle
Also, you can lock the doors with the key in ignition, do it all the time, like when cruisin' the hood. Or did you mean when the car is off though? And if the key is placed straight into the ignition, or having been just turned off all the way, and not turned, it won't activate any accessories or trigger the auto lights. (my wife leaves keys in car all the time...over night etc.)
Of course my Rover key can be left on w/ engine off, radio, lights, whatever, doors opened, and it will shut all power down after 20 minutes. It also allows you to use power for 20 minutes after removing the key, slick huh? But I digress - -
Also, I was leaning in to buckle my kid in the car seat, keys jammed in pocket somewhere, and the front 2 windows powered themselves down! My daughter said "how did mommy do that?" After playing with the FOB (love that word, FOB) If you hold the unlock button down, after about 4 sec, it downs the front windows! Cool huh? But they fobbed up when they didn't include functionality to close them with the FOB?1?1? Seems more important, like if it's raining and you are inside or running for the car, er something.
Airbags - I have these little Airbag Tags on the outside edge of the head rests, does this mean I have the side Airbags? (cause I didn't pay for 'em)
My dealer is whack, they also forgot to collect $1200 of my down money, they finally billed me for $163 - I questioned nothing. (don't rat me out please! heh heh)
But aggiedog, does the manual state specifically that it relocks within 5 minutes? 5 minutes seems like an awfully long time for the relock to kick in. Hondas, for example, will relock, rearm within 15 - 30 seconds.
Jolar - Headrest tags - If your tags on the headrest say air bags, they may have put the wrong tags on your headrest. In cars with side air bags the air bag tags are on the side of the front seats (door side). There is a different tag on the headrest that reads Active Headrest (what ever that is).
Next opinion.......
My middle-aged mind may be wrong, but I believe the "active headrest" is mounted on a pivot inside the seat so if you are rear-ended, your back pushes into the seat and the headrest moves forward slightly to prevent whiplash. I believe Volvo has already had this for several years. Yes, the tag says "active headrest".
As for waxing, I'm not a groupie, but I think zaino wax (zainobros.com) is the best I've used. It really shines and I think another layer of stuff on top of the clearcoat is a good idea.
Anyone else used zaino?
Happy fobbing, gg
13 tweaks you probably didn't know about
After reading a couple of threads about adjusting the sensitivity of the automatic on/off feature for my Xenons, I decided to pay a visit to my dealer. Well, it turns out that once the car is hooked up to the dealer’s diagnostic computer, they can change several other settings at the same time.
My dealer (Trophy Nissan, Mesquite TX – also the operator of www.nissanwholesaleparts.com) told me that these settings are not listed in the owner’s manual, or even in the books the repair guys use. He says the only reason they know about the settings is from a training course they had to take before the 2002 Altima came out. They even made their own worksheet so Trophy’s customers can fill it out before their car is hooked up to the computer. Here are the settings you can change and the appropriate modes:
Door Lock/Unlock (with single click on keyfob)
Mode 1: Unlock left front door only
Mode 2: Unlock all doors
Anti-lock Out (prevents locking keys in car)
Mode 1: Master door lock switch can activate door locks w/ key in ignition
Mode 2: Master door lock switch cannot activate door locks w/ key in ignition
Dome Lamp Timer
Mode 1: Interior lamp comes on when left front door is unlocked
Mode 2: Interior lamp does not come on when left front door is unlocked
Retained Power (Amount of time windows and sunroof will operate after turning off ignition)
Mode 1: 45 seconds
Mode 2: No delay (Will not operate after ignition key is turned off)
Mode 3: 2 minutes
Auto Light On (headlights turn on as it gets dark)
Mode 1: Factory setting
Mode 2: Lights come on sooner than factory setting
Mode 3: Lights come on later than factor setting
Mode 4: Lights come on later than Mode 3
Head Lamp Battery Saver (applies when headlights left in “on” position, not in “auto.”
Mode 1: Shuts lamps off after 5 minutes
Mode 2: No time delay (headlights turn off immediately)
Headlamp Illumination delay (time headlights remain on after exiting car when headlight is in the “auto” position)
Mode 1: 45 seconds
Mode 2: No Delay (lights turn off immediately)
Mode 3: 30 Seconds
Mode 4: 1 minute
Mode 5: 1 ½ minutes
Mode 6: 2 minutes
Mode 7: 2 ½ minutes
Mode 8: 3 minutes
Hazard and Horn Reminder Mode (key fob allows you to choose between modes 1 & 2, but there are 4 others)
Mode 1 (C Mode): Lock = 2 flash, 1 horn /// Unlock = 1 flash, 0 horn
Mode 2 (S Mode): Lock = 2 flash, 0 horn /// Unlock = 0 flash, 0 horn
Mode 3: Lock = 0 flash, 0 horn /// Unlock = 0 flash, 0 horn
Mode 4: Lock = 2 flash, 0 horn /// Unlock = 1 flash, 0 horn
Mode 5: Lock = 2 flash, 1 horn /// Unlock = 0 flash, 0 horn
Mode 6: Lock = 0 flash, 1 horn /// Unlock = 1 flash, 0 horn
Remote Auto Locking Function Mode (Doors automatically lock after exiting car)
Mode 1: 5 minute delay
Mode 2: Function disabled
Mode 3: 1 minute delay
Remote Panic Alarm Operation Mode (activates when button on keyfob held for approx. __)
Mode 1: .5 seconds
Mode 2: Function disabled
Mode 3: 1.5 seconds
Remote Trunk Open Operation Mode (activates when button on keyfob held for approx. __)
Mode 1: .5 seconds
Mode 2: Function disabled
Mode 3: 1.5 seconds
Remote Power Window Down Operation Mode (activates when button on keyfob held for approx. __)
Mode 1: 3 seconds
Mode 2: Function disabled
Mode 3: 5 seconds